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[bolger] Re: Michalak butt joints

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  • Chuck Leinweber
    On my Tennessee, I used ply butt plates, and epoxied them on. Later they opened up on the outside, so I went back and taped the crack. Right now, I am
    Message 1 of 5 , Sep 2, 1999
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      On my Tennessee, I used ply butt plates, and epoxied them on. Later they
      opened up on the outside, so I went back and taped the crack. Right now, I
      am building Jim Michalak's Jonsboat, and I am just using tape. So far it
      seems pretty easy. I used a disk sander to make a shallow cove at the
      joint, then glassed with tape cut on a bias. When I sanded the extra down
      with a belt sander, I discovered some low spots, so I glassed again. That
      seemed to do it.

      Chuck

      > I was looking at Jim Michalak's site and his essay on plywood butt
      > joints. Thinking about using his joint in the sides of the folding
      > schooner. The plans call for an 8" plywood butt plate glued and
      > fastened with clinch nails. I did the clinch nails on the Gypsy and
      > they never did finish out neatly. Wondering about using screws, epoxy
      > and a 1/8 for backing as per Jim's essay. Would it be too stiff? We
      > made tape joints for the six hour canoe we built. They have worked
      > well but it was finicky and as Jim says it is hard to get everything
      > perfectly flat and smoothed out. Taping the outside face of the side
      > panels after they are in place looks a lot easier to me. What do you
      > think?
      > Leander
      >
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    • bianco@asi.it
      bianc-@asi.it wrote: Leander, there s a lot of info around on plywood backed butt joints, but not always coherent. I have two books treating the matter rather
      Message 2 of 5 , Sep 3, 1999
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        bianc-@... wrote:

        Leander,
        there's a lot of info around on plywood backed butt joints, but not
        always coherent. I have two books treating the matter rather
        extensively, i.e. "BOATBUILDING WITH PLYWOOD" by Glen L. Witt and "A
        MANUAL OF MODERN SMALL PLYWOOD BOAT CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES" by Paul
        Fisher.
        Witt gives the following guidelines:
        1)use screws (nails only on the smallest boats) on 2" centers,
        staggered;
        2)the width of the backing plate should be 15 times the thickness of
        the plywood.
        He says that this butt joint is as strong as a scarfed joint.
        Fisher gives indications on how to avoid the flat bump: use a 4"-5"
        wide back plate for 1/4" ply, 6" for 3/8", 8" for 1/2".
        Dave Carnell is a strong advocate of FG splices and details the matter
        in his web page http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/.
        I'll use FG splices for my Micro. Best, Pippo


        original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=212
        > I was looking at Jim Michalak's site and his essay on plywood butt
        > joints. Thinking about using his joint in the sides of the folding
        > schooner. The plans call for an 8" plywood butt plate glued and
        > fastened with clinch nails.
      • David Beede
        I just built featherwind using Dave Carnell s glass tape only butt joints and found it pretty straight forward. I tested all the trimmed strips for strength
        Message 3 of 5 , Sep 3, 1999
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          I just built featherwind using Dave Carnell's glass tape only butt
          joints and found it pretty straight forward. I tested all the trimmed
          strips for strength and none broke the joint - rather the ply to either
          side.
          David

          harding2@... wrote:

          >
          > I was looking at Jim Michalak's site and his essay on plywood butt
          joints. Thinking about using his joint in the sides of the folding
          schooner. The plans call for an 8" plywood butt plate glued and
          fastened with clinch nails. I did the clinch nails on the Gypsy and
          they never did finish out neatly. Wondering about using screws, epoxy
          and a 1/8 for backing as per Jim's essay. Would it be too stiff? We
          made tape joints for the six hour canoe we built. They have worked
          well but it was finicky and as Jim says it is hard to get everything
          perfectly flat and smoothed out. Taping the outside face of the side
          panels after they are in place looks a lot easier to me. What do you
          think?
          Leander

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        • jmbell@mindspring.com
          jmbel-@mindspring.com wrote: My windsprint has the 4 wide plywood butt blocks hel in place by epoxy only and a strip of 6 oz FG tape on the outside. Works
          Message 4 of 5 , Sep 3, 1999
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            jmbel-@... wrote:

            My windsprint has the 4" wide plywood butt blocks hel in place by epoxy
            only and a strip of 6 oz FG tape on the outside. Works well. I tried to
            clinch the nails as specified by Payson but like you I found it was a
            mess. So, I pulled them.

            My other boat has a piece of lumberyard 1x4 as butt blocks. They are
            glued with epoxy and secured with brass screws. This was what was
            recommeded by Michalak in the plans. It didn't tape anything in the
            butt, but the outside of this boat is glassed. Again, no problems. It
            does make more of a flat spot on the topsides than a thinner butt block
            might.

            JB


            original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=212
            > I was looking at Jim Michalak's site and his essay on plywood butt
            > joints. Thinking about using his joint in the sides of the folding
            > schooner. The plans call for an 8" plywood butt plate glued and
            > fastened with clinch nails. I did the clinch nails on the Gypsy and
            > they never did finish out neatly. Wondering about using screws, epoxy
            > and a 1/8 for backing as per Jim's essay. Would it be too stiff? We
            > made tape joints for the six hour canoe we built. They have worked
            > well but it was finicky and as Jim says it is hard to get everything
            > perfectly flat and smoothed out. Taping the outside face of the side
            > panels after they are in place looks a lot easier to me. What do you
            > think?
            > Leander
            >
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