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[bolger] Michalak butt joints

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  • harding2@home.com
    I was looking at Jim Michalak s site and his essay on plywood butt joints. Thinking about using his joint in the sides of the folding schooner. The plans call
    Message 1 of 5 , Sep 2, 1999
      I was looking at Jim Michalak's site and his essay on plywood butt
      joints. Thinking about using his joint in the sides of the folding
      schooner. The plans call for an 8" plywood butt plate glued and
      fastened with clinch nails. I did the clinch nails on the Gypsy and
      they never did finish out neatly. Wondering about using screws, epoxy
      and a 1/8 for backing as per Jim's essay. Would it be too stiff? We
      made tape joints for the six hour canoe we built. They have worked
      well but it was finicky and as Jim says it is hard to get everything
      perfectly flat and smoothed out. Taping the outside face of the side
      panels after they are in place looks a lot easier to me. What do you
      think?
      Leander
    • Chuck Leinweber
      On my Tennessee, I used ply butt plates, and epoxied them on. Later they opened up on the outside, so I went back and taped the crack. Right now, I am
      Message 2 of 5 , Sep 2, 1999
        On my Tennessee, I used ply butt plates, and epoxied them on. Later they
        opened up on the outside, so I went back and taped the crack. Right now, I
        am building Jim Michalak's Jonsboat, and I am just using tape. So far it
        seems pretty easy. I used a disk sander to make a shallow cove at the
        joint, then glassed with tape cut on a bias. When I sanded the extra down
        with a belt sander, I discovered some low spots, so I glassed again. That
        seemed to do it.

        Chuck

        > I was looking at Jim Michalak's site and his essay on plywood butt
        > joints. Thinking about using his joint in the sides of the folding
        > schooner. The plans call for an 8" plywood butt plate glued and
        > fastened with clinch nails. I did the clinch nails on the Gypsy and
        > they never did finish out neatly. Wondering about using screws, epoxy
        > and a 1/8 for backing as per Jim's essay. Would it be too stiff? We
        > made tape joints for the six hour canoe we built. They have worked
        > well but it was finicky and as Jim says it is hard to get everything
        > perfectly flat and smoothed out. Taping the outside face of the side
        > panels after they are in place looks a lot easier to me. What do you
        > think?
        > Leander
        >
        >
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      • bianco@asi.it
        bianc-@asi.it wrote: Leander, there s a lot of info around on plywood backed butt joints, but not always coherent. I have two books treating the matter rather
        Message 3 of 5 , Sep 3, 1999
          bianc-@... wrote:

          Leander,
          there's a lot of info around on plywood backed butt joints, but not
          always coherent. I have two books treating the matter rather
          extensively, i.e. "BOATBUILDING WITH PLYWOOD" by Glen L. Witt and "A
          MANUAL OF MODERN SMALL PLYWOOD BOAT CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES" by Paul
          Fisher.
          Witt gives the following guidelines:
          1)use screws (nails only on the smallest boats) on 2" centers,
          staggered;
          2)the width of the backing plate should be 15 times the thickness of
          the plywood.
          He says that this butt joint is as strong as a scarfed joint.
          Fisher gives indications on how to avoid the flat bump: use a 4"-5"
          wide back plate for 1/4" ply, 6" for 3/8", 8" for 1/2".
          Dave Carnell is a strong advocate of FG splices and details the matter
          in his web page http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/.
          I'll use FG splices for my Micro. Best, Pippo


          original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=212
          > I was looking at Jim Michalak's site and his essay on plywood butt
          > joints. Thinking about using his joint in the sides of the folding
          > schooner. The plans call for an 8" plywood butt plate glued and
          > fastened with clinch nails.
        • David Beede
          I just built featherwind using Dave Carnell s glass tape only butt joints and found it pretty straight forward. I tested all the trimmed strips for strength
          Message 4 of 5 , Sep 3, 1999
            I just built featherwind using Dave Carnell's glass tape only butt
            joints and found it pretty straight forward. I tested all the trimmed
            strips for strength and none broke the joint - rather the ply to either
            side.
            David

            harding2@... wrote:

            >
            > I was looking at Jim Michalak's site and his essay on plywood butt
            joints. Thinking about using his joint in the sides of the folding
            schooner. The plans call for an 8" plywood butt plate glued and
            fastened with clinch nails. I did the clinch nails on the Gypsy and
            they never did finish out neatly. Wondering about using screws, epoxy
            and a 1/8 for backing as per Jim's essay. Would it be too stiff? We
            made tape joints for the six hour canoe we built. They have worked
            well but it was finicky and as Jim says it is hard to get everything
            perfectly flat and smoothed out. Taping the outside face of the side
            panels after they are in place looks a lot easier to me. What do you
            think?
            Leander

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          • jmbell@mindspring.com
            jmbel-@mindspring.com wrote: My windsprint has the 4 wide plywood butt blocks hel in place by epoxy only and a strip of 6 oz FG tape on the outside. Works
            Message 5 of 5 , Sep 3, 1999
              jmbel-@... wrote:

              My windsprint has the 4" wide plywood butt blocks hel in place by epoxy
              only and a strip of 6 oz FG tape on the outside. Works well. I tried to
              clinch the nails as specified by Payson but like you I found it was a
              mess. So, I pulled them.

              My other boat has a piece of lumberyard 1x4 as butt blocks. They are
              glued with epoxy and secured with brass screws. This was what was
              recommeded by Michalak in the plans. It didn't tape anything in the
              butt, but the outside of this boat is glassed. Again, no problems. It
              does make more of a flat spot on the topsides than a thinner butt block
              might.

              JB


              original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=212
              > I was looking at Jim Michalak's site and his essay on plywood butt
              > joints. Thinking about using his joint in the sides of the folding
              > schooner. The plans call for an 8" plywood butt plate glued and
              > fastened with clinch nails. I did the clinch nails on the Gypsy and
              > they never did finish out neatly. Wondering about using screws, epoxy
              > and a 1/8 for backing as per Jim's essay. Would it be too stiff? We
              > made tape joints for the six hour canoe we built. They have worked
              > well but it was finicky and as Jim says it is hard to get everything
              > perfectly flat and smoothed out. Taping the outside face of the side
              > panels after they are in place looks a lot easier to me. What do you
              > think?
              > Leander
              >
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