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Re: [bolger] Re: Hour 40

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  • Harry W. James
    Good point, I use it because it is very convenient. Pick up bottle, squirt on joint cap bottle, clamp up. Lots quicker than mixing, also less waste, at least
    Message 1 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
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      Good point, I use it because it is very convenient. Pick up bottle,
      squirt on joint cap bottle, clamp up. Lots quicker than mixing, also
      less waste, at least for me on small jobs as I always mix to much. Major
      stuff where I recall care I will use epoxy.

      HJ

      David Ryan wrote:
      >
      > >Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended it
      > >a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
      > >stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is *really*
      >
      > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why not use epoxy?
      >
      > YIBB,
      >
      > David
      >
      > C.E.P.
      >
    • boatbuilding@goldencoast.com
      ... I m using a lot of this glue on the Wyoming. I do limit it to large gluing surfaces such as where the 1 1/2 square stock is glued down to the hull and
      Message 2 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
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        >
        > --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
        >>
        >> >Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here
        >> >recommended

        I'm using a lot of this glue on the Wyoming. I do limit it to
        large gluing surfaces such as where the 1 1/2" square stock is
        glued down to the hull and nailed also, or the 1x4 stock is
        glued to bulkheads. I did some test and where there is good
        size gluing surfaces it holds as well as epoxy. The wood will
        separate before the joint gives. This is on plywood and
        cedar. I think hardwoods would do better with epoxy.

        Any places that require waterproof assembly or where I'm going
        to use fillets and tape, I use epoxy. Without a doubt epoxy is
        a better glue, but, in large gluing surfaces, the polyurethane
        will hold very well and is stronger than the wood, which after
        all is all you need from a glue.

        I find the polyurethane allows me to build much faster than
        epoxy. Within a couple hours it's set well enough to remove
        clamps and continue building. On a big boat like the Wyo,
        thats a huge advantage.

        Jeff
      • boatbuilding@goldencoast.com
        ... It is not cheaper than epoxy by any means. BUT, it s much easier to work with and it sets up in a couple hours and you can continue building. That s the
        Message 3 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
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          >
          >>Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here
          >>recommended it a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic'
          >>version of the brand name stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it
          >>has GREAT adhesion, it is *really*
          >
          > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why
          > not use epoxy?

          It is not cheaper than epoxy by any means. BUT, it's much
          easier to work with and it sets up in a couple hours and you
          can continue building. That's the advantage. Where I use it,
          I would use more epoxy because of the waste. I never seem to
          be able to mix up the exact amount needed. With a squeeze
          bottle you use what you need. It's still more expensive but
          not terribly so and you pay for convenience.

          Jeff
        • rnlocnil
          Yes, but does it have any strength when the parts don t have a tight fit? Epoxy is pretty good stuff for filling small gaps (or large ones, if you can afford
          Message 4 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
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            Yes, but does it have any strength when the parts don't have a tight
            fit? Epoxy is pretty good stuff for filling small gaps (or large ones,
            if you can afford it).
            --- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
            > >
            > >>Polyurethane glue; snip
          • brucehallman
            ... Whim and not much else. I think the Gorilla Glue swells up by 3 or 4 times, so a pint equals perhaps a quart of thickened epoxy. Also, I feel that
            Message 5 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
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              --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:

              > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy.
              > Why not use epoxy?

              Whim and not much else. I think the Gorilla Glue swells up by 3 or 4
              times, so a pint equals perhaps a quart of thickened epoxy. Also, I
              feel that dealing with a squeeze bottle, versus mixing up a batch
              from two parts, is a little easier.

              The real reason I switched, was that day last weekend when I was
              working outdoors in the pouring rain, with very wet wood. The glue
              joint I made with epoxy fell apart; disgusted, I ran to the store and
              bought the Gorilla Glue and discovered that it sticks even better
              when things are wet.
            • nettech22407
              I have used gorilla glue as well as epoxy, and PL premium. My experience indicates that the epoxy is the strongest. The PL is is a little sensative to surface
              Message 6 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
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                I have used gorilla glue as well as epoxy, and PL premium.

                My experience indicates that the epoxy is the strongest. The PL is
                is a little sensative to surface prep, it doesn't seem to like laytex
                paint. I found that the GG used in loose joints is shock sensative.
                I found this out the hard way, my 15' skiff slid off of the saw
                horses I had it on. Where I only used GG to join the frames and
                there were gaps, the shock of the fall knocked the frames off of the
                plywood sides. Where I used 3M 5200 there was no problems. I had
                used 5200 on the port side and GG on the starboard side. The GG
                joint separated without damaging the underlying wood.

                From working with all the above glues, I have come to like 3M 5200.
                The regular version sets in 4 hours and takes up to 4 days to fully
                cure. The fast cure 5200 sets in 45 minutes and cures in one day.
                It will bridge gaps of up to 3/8" or 9mm. When it cures it does not
                foam. When cured, it has the consistancy of the rubber used in
                skateboard wheels. On bare wood, removing it requires taking away
                some of the underlying wood. The downside to this glue, is you
                should clean up right away, it is a bear to sand off drips.


                >snip
                >--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
                > --- In bolger@y..., teakdeck@a... wrote:
                > > Gorilla glue.
                >
                > http://www.gorillaglue.com/
                >
                > Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended
                it
                > a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
                > stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is
                *really*
                > snip
              • dbaldnz
                Sorry Bruce, but I cannot understand your logic at all on this one. All epoxy labels say the wood must be dry. Gorilla labels say the joint should be damp.
                Message 7 of 14 , Jun 3, 2002
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                  Sorry Bruce, but I cannot understand your logic at all on this one.
                  All epoxy labels say the wood must be dry.
                  Gorilla labels say the joint should be damp.
                  What would you expect?
                  DonB

                  --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
                  > --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
                  >
                  > The real reason I switched, was that day last weekend when I was
                  > working outdoors in the pouring rain, with very wet wood. The glue
                  > joint I made with epoxy fell apart; disgusted, I ran to the store
                  and
                  > bought the Gorilla Glue and discovered that it sticks even better
                  > when things are wet.
                • donm172001
                  ... A great resource for learning how to lay out and spile strakes is The Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual by Iain Oughtred. It also has a wealth of
                  Message 8 of 14 , Jun 6, 2002
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                    --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
                    > I am still plugging away at my lapstrake learning experiment with
                    > Spur II [BWAOM]. My strakes are very far from 'correct', but never
                    > the less, I think the boat will float. I learned enough about how
                    > strakes fall on frames that "next time" I bet I can make proper
                    > strakes [perhaps]. The boat is extremely light weight.
                    >
                    > I think that using 1/8" plywood to "plank" a boat is quicker than
                    > using 1/4" redwood strips. Gorilla glue is excellent stuff.
                    >
                    > http://www.hallman.org/bolger/spur/hour40/


                    A great resource for learning how to lay out and spile strakes is
                    "The Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual" by Iain Oughtred. It also
                    has a wealth of information on building lapstrake plywood boats. It
                    is available at Amazon and the WoodenBoat Store.
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