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Re: Hour 40

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  • brucehallman
    ... http://www.gorillaglue.com/ Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended it a few weeks back. I am using a generic version of the
    Message 1 of 14 , Jun 1, 2002
      --- In bolger@y..., teakdeck@a... wrote:
      > Gorilla glue.

      http://www.gorillaglue.com/

      Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended it
      a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
      stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is *really*
      sticky, and it develops a good grip after about an hour. I
      especially like that it 'foams' when it cures which causes it to fill
      up large gaps, up to perhaps 3/16".

      It *absolutely* requires moisture to cure. I have been wetting down
      the glue joint liberally with a spray bottle of water before and
      after applying the glue.

      Drips and slobbers are hard to clean up, I found that scraping them
      off with a chisel works best. If you get it on your fingers, scrub
      it off with pumice soap within fifteen minutes or so, or you get
      black stains on your skin that last two days.
    • sacalman
      Nice looking boat, Bruce! So, will you tell us the name of your Gorilla Glue clone? Scott Calman
      Message 2 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
        Nice looking boat, Bruce!

        So, will you tell us the name of your Gorilla Glue clone?

        Scott Calman

        --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
        > I am still plugging away at my lapstrake learning experiment with
        > Spur II [BWAOM]. My strakes are very far from 'correct', but never
        > the less, I think the boat will float. I learned enough about how
        > strakes fall on frames that "next time" I bet I can make proper
        > strakes [perhaps]. The boat is extremely light weight.
        >
        > I think that using 1/8" plywood to "plank" a boat is quicker than
        > using 1/4" redwood strips. Gorilla glue is excellent stuff.
        >
        > http://www.hallman.org/bolger/spur/hour40/
      • David Ryan
        ... At $7/pint that s $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why not use epoxy? YIBB, David C.E.P. 415 W.46th Street New York, New York 10036
        Message 3 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
          >Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended it
          >a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
          >stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is *really*

          At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why not use epoxy?

          YIBB,

          David

          C.E.P.
          415 W.46th Street
          New York, New York 10036
          http://www.crumblingempire.com
          (212) 247-0296
        • dbaldnz
          ... it ... *really* ... epoxy? ... Absolutely David. And vastly inferior to epoxy for boatbuilding, except for minor restricted use. I will be sending my
          Message 4 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
            --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
            >
            > >Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended
            it
            > >a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
            > >stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is
            *really*
            >
            > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why not use
            epoxy?
            >
            > YIBB,
            >
            > David

            Absolutely David. And vastly inferior to epoxy for boatbuilding,
            except for minor restricted use. I will be sending my experience of
            Gorilla soon.
            DonB
          • Harry W. James
            Good point, I use it because it is very convenient. Pick up bottle, squirt on joint cap bottle, clamp up. Lots quicker than mixing, also less waste, at least
            Message 5 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
              Good point, I use it because it is very convenient. Pick up bottle,
              squirt on joint cap bottle, clamp up. Lots quicker than mixing, also
              less waste, at least for me on small jobs as I always mix to much. Major
              stuff where I recall care I will use epoxy.

              HJ

              David Ryan wrote:
              >
              > >Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended it
              > >a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
              > >stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is *really*
              >
              > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why not use epoxy?
              >
              > YIBB,
              >
              > David
              >
              > C.E.P.
              >
            • boatbuilding@goldencoast.com
              ... I m using a lot of this glue on the Wyoming. I do limit it to large gluing surfaces such as where the 1 1/2 square stock is glued down to the hull and
              Message 6 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                >
                > --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
                >>
                >> >Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here
                >> >recommended

                I'm using a lot of this glue on the Wyoming. I do limit it to
                large gluing surfaces such as where the 1 1/2" square stock is
                glued down to the hull and nailed also, or the 1x4 stock is
                glued to bulkheads. I did some test and where there is good
                size gluing surfaces it holds as well as epoxy. The wood will
                separate before the joint gives. This is on plywood and
                cedar. I think hardwoods would do better with epoxy.

                Any places that require waterproof assembly or where I'm going
                to use fillets and tape, I use epoxy. Without a doubt epoxy is
                a better glue, but, in large gluing surfaces, the polyurethane
                will hold very well and is stronger than the wood, which after
                all is all you need from a glue.

                I find the polyurethane allows me to build much faster than
                epoxy. Within a couple hours it's set well enough to remove
                clamps and continue building. On a big boat like the Wyo,
                thats a huge advantage.

                Jeff
              • boatbuilding@goldencoast.com
                ... It is not cheaper than epoxy by any means. BUT, it s much easier to work with and it sets up in a couple hours and you can continue building. That s the
                Message 7 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                  >
                  >>Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here
                  >>recommended it a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic'
                  >>version of the brand name stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it
                  >>has GREAT adhesion, it is *really*
                  >
                  > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why
                  > not use epoxy?

                  It is not cheaper than epoxy by any means. BUT, it's much
                  easier to work with and it sets up in a couple hours and you
                  can continue building. That's the advantage. Where I use it,
                  I would use more epoxy because of the waste. I never seem to
                  be able to mix up the exact amount needed. With a squeeze
                  bottle you use what you need. It's still more expensive but
                  not terribly so and you pay for convenience.

                  Jeff
                • rnlocnil
                  Yes, but does it have any strength when the parts don t have a tight fit? Epoxy is pretty good stuff for filling small gaps (or large ones, if you can afford
                  Message 8 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                    Yes, but does it have any strength when the parts don't have a tight
                    fit? Epoxy is pretty good stuff for filling small gaps (or large ones,
                    if you can afford it).
                    --- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
                    > >
                    > >>Polyurethane glue; snip
                  • brucehallman
                    ... Whim and not much else. I think the Gorilla Glue swells up by 3 or 4 times, so a pint equals perhaps a quart of thickened epoxy. Also, I feel that
                    Message 9 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                      --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:

                      > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy.
                      > Why not use epoxy?

                      Whim and not much else. I think the Gorilla Glue swells up by 3 or 4
                      times, so a pint equals perhaps a quart of thickened epoxy. Also, I
                      feel that dealing with a squeeze bottle, versus mixing up a batch
                      from two parts, is a little easier.

                      The real reason I switched, was that day last weekend when I was
                      working outdoors in the pouring rain, with very wet wood. The glue
                      joint I made with epoxy fell apart; disgusted, I ran to the store and
                      bought the Gorilla Glue and discovered that it sticks even better
                      when things are wet.
                    • nettech22407
                      I have used gorilla glue as well as epoxy, and PL premium. My experience indicates that the epoxy is the strongest. The PL is is a little sensative to surface
                      Message 10 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                        I have used gorilla glue as well as epoxy, and PL premium.

                        My experience indicates that the epoxy is the strongest. The PL is
                        is a little sensative to surface prep, it doesn't seem to like laytex
                        paint. I found that the GG used in loose joints is shock sensative.
                        I found this out the hard way, my 15' skiff slid off of the saw
                        horses I had it on. Where I only used GG to join the frames and
                        there were gaps, the shock of the fall knocked the frames off of the
                        plywood sides. Where I used 3M 5200 there was no problems. I had
                        used 5200 on the port side and GG on the starboard side. The GG
                        joint separated without damaging the underlying wood.

                        From working with all the above glues, I have come to like 3M 5200.
                        The regular version sets in 4 hours and takes up to 4 days to fully
                        cure. The fast cure 5200 sets in 45 minutes and cures in one day.
                        It will bridge gaps of up to 3/8" or 9mm. When it cures it does not
                        foam. When cured, it has the consistancy of the rubber used in
                        skateboard wheels. On bare wood, removing it requires taking away
                        some of the underlying wood. The downside to this glue, is you
                        should clean up right away, it is a bear to sand off drips.


                        >snip
                        >--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
                        > --- In bolger@y..., teakdeck@a... wrote:
                        > > Gorilla glue.
                        >
                        > http://www.gorillaglue.com/
                        >
                        > Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended
                        it
                        > a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
                        > stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is
                        *really*
                        > snip
                      • dbaldnz
                        Sorry Bruce, but I cannot understand your logic at all on this one. All epoxy labels say the wood must be dry. Gorilla labels say the joint should be damp.
                        Message 11 of 14 , Jun 3, 2002
                          Sorry Bruce, but I cannot understand your logic at all on this one.
                          All epoxy labels say the wood must be dry.
                          Gorilla labels say the joint should be damp.
                          What would you expect?
                          DonB

                          --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
                          > --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
                          >
                          > The real reason I switched, was that day last weekend when I was
                          > working outdoors in the pouring rain, with very wet wood. The glue
                          > joint I made with epoxy fell apart; disgusted, I ran to the store
                          and
                          > bought the Gorilla Glue and discovered that it sticks even better
                          > when things are wet.
                        • donm172001
                          ... A great resource for learning how to lay out and spile strakes is The Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual by Iain Oughtred. It also has a wealth of
                          Message 12 of 14 , Jun 6, 2002
                            --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
                            > I am still plugging away at my lapstrake learning experiment with
                            > Spur II [BWAOM]. My strakes are very far from 'correct', but never
                            > the less, I think the boat will float. I learned enough about how
                            > strakes fall on frames that "next time" I bet I can make proper
                            > strakes [perhaps]. The boat is extremely light weight.
                            >
                            > I think that using 1/8" plywood to "plank" a boat is quicker than
                            > using 1/4" redwood strips. Gorilla glue is excellent stuff.
                            >
                            > http://www.hallman.org/bolger/spur/hour40/


                            A great resource for learning how to lay out and spile strakes is
                            "The Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual" by Iain Oughtred. It also
                            has a wealth of information on building lapstrake plywood boats. It
                            is available at Amazon and the WoodenBoat Store.
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