Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Hour 40

Expand Messages
  • brucehallman
    I am still plugging away at my lapstrake learning experiment with Spur II [BWAOM]. My strakes are very far from correct , but never the less, I think the
    Message 1 of 14 , Jun 1, 2002
    • 0 Attachment
      I am still plugging away at my lapstrake learning experiment with
      Spur II [BWAOM]. My strakes are very far from 'correct', but never
      the less, I think the boat will float. I learned enough about how
      strakes fall on frames that "next time" I bet I can make proper
      strakes [perhaps]. The boat is extremely light weight.

      I think that using 1/8" plywood to "plank" a boat is quicker than
      using 1/4" redwood strips. Gorilla glue is excellent stuff.

      http://www.hallman.org/bolger/spur/hour40/
    • teakdeck@aol.com
      Great looking boat. I agree, it s going to float. Tell us, or just me, about Gorilla glue. Mike Masten
      Message 2 of 14 , Jun 1, 2002
      • 0 Attachment
        Great looking boat. I agree, it's going to float. Tell us, or just me, about
        Gorilla glue.

        Mike Masten

        In a message dated 6/1/02 8:14:39 PM, brucehallman@... writes:

        >I am still plugging away at my lapstrake learning experiment with
        >Spur II [BWAOM]. My strakes are very far from 'correct', but never
        >the less, I think the boat will float. I learned enough about how
        >strakes fall on frames that "next time" I bet I can make proper
        >strakes [perhaps]. The boat is extremely light weight.
        >
        >I think that using 1/8" plywood to "plank" a boat is quicker than
        >using 1/4" redwood strips. Gorilla glue is excellent stuff.
        >
      • brucehallman
        ... http://www.gorillaglue.com/ Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended it a few weeks back. I am using a generic version of the
        Message 3 of 14 , Jun 1, 2002
        • 0 Attachment
          --- In bolger@y..., teakdeck@a... wrote:
          > Gorilla glue.

          http://www.gorillaglue.com/

          Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended it
          a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
          stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is *really*
          sticky, and it develops a good grip after about an hour. I
          especially like that it 'foams' when it cures which causes it to fill
          up large gaps, up to perhaps 3/16".

          It *absolutely* requires moisture to cure. I have been wetting down
          the glue joint liberally with a spray bottle of water before and
          after applying the glue.

          Drips and slobbers are hard to clean up, I found that scraping them
          off with a chisel works best. If you get it on your fingers, scrub
          it off with pumice soap within fifteen minutes or so, or you get
          black stains on your skin that last two days.
        • sacalman
          Nice looking boat, Bruce! So, will you tell us the name of your Gorilla Glue clone? Scott Calman
          Message 4 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
          • 0 Attachment
            Nice looking boat, Bruce!

            So, will you tell us the name of your Gorilla Glue clone?

            Scott Calman

            --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
            > I am still plugging away at my lapstrake learning experiment with
            > Spur II [BWAOM]. My strakes are very far from 'correct', but never
            > the less, I think the boat will float. I learned enough about how
            > strakes fall on frames that "next time" I bet I can make proper
            > strakes [perhaps]. The boat is extremely light weight.
            >
            > I think that using 1/8" plywood to "plank" a boat is quicker than
            > using 1/4" redwood strips. Gorilla glue is excellent stuff.
            >
            > http://www.hallman.org/bolger/spur/hour40/
          • David Ryan
            ... At $7/pint that s $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why not use epoxy? YIBB, David C.E.P. 415 W.46th Street New York, New York 10036
            Message 5 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
            • 0 Attachment
              >Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended it
              >a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
              >stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is *really*

              At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why not use epoxy?

              YIBB,

              David

              C.E.P.
              415 W.46th Street
              New York, New York 10036
              http://www.crumblingempire.com
              (212) 247-0296
            • dbaldnz
              ... it ... *really* ... epoxy? ... Absolutely David. And vastly inferior to epoxy for boatbuilding, except for minor restricted use. I will be sending my
              Message 6 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
              • 0 Attachment
                --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
                >
                > >Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended
                it
                > >a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
                > >stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is
                *really*
                >
                > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why not use
                epoxy?
                >
                > YIBB,
                >
                > David

                Absolutely David. And vastly inferior to epoxy for boatbuilding,
                except for minor restricted use. I will be sending my experience of
                Gorilla soon.
                DonB
              • Harry W. James
                Good point, I use it because it is very convenient. Pick up bottle, squirt on joint cap bottle, clamp up. Lots quicker than mixing, also less waste, at least
                Message 7 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                • 0 Attachment
                  Good point, I use it because it is very convenient. Pick up bottle,
                  squirt on joint cap bottle, clamp up. Lots quicker than mixing, also
                  less waste, at least for me on small jobs as I always mix to much. Major
                  stuff where I recall care I will use epoxy.

                  HJ

                  David Ryan wrote:
                  >
                  > >Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended it
                  > >a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
                  > >stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is *really*
                  >
                  > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why not use epoxy?
                  >
                  > YIBB,
                  >
                  > David
                  >
                  > C.E.P.
                  >
                • boatbuilding@goldencoast.com
                  ... I m using a lot of this glue on the Wyoming. I do limit it to large gluing surfaces such as where the 1 1/2 square stock is glued down to the hull and
                  Message 8 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                  • 0 Attachment
                    >
                    > --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
                    >>
                    >> >Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here
                    >> >recommended

                    I'm using a lot of this glue on the Wyoming. I do limit it to
                    large gluing surfaces such as where the 1 1/2" square stock is
                    glued down to the hull and nailed also, or the 1x4 stock is
                    glued to bulkheads. I did some test and where there is good
                    size gluing surfaces it holds as well as epoxy. The wood will
                    separate before the joint gives. This is on plywood and
                    cedar. I think hardwoods would do better with epoxy.

                    Any places that require waterproof assembly or where I'm going
                    to use fillets and tape, I use epoxy. Without a doubt epoxy is
                    a better glue, but, in large gluing surfaces, the polyurethane
                    will hold very well and is stronger than the wood, which after
                    all is all you need from a glue.

                    I find the polyurethane allows me to build much faster than
                    epoxy. Within a couple hours it's set well enough to remove
                    clamps and continue building. On a big boat like the Wyo,
                    thats a huge advantage.

                    Jeff
                  • boatbuilding@goldencoast.com
                    ... It is not cheaper than epoxy by any means. BUT, it s much easier to work with and it sets up in a couple hours and you can continue building. That s the
                    Message 9 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                    • 0 Attachment
                      >
                      >>Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here
                      >>recommended it a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic'
                      >>version of the brand name stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it
                      >>has GREAT adhesion, it is *really*
                      >
                      > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy. Why
                      > not use epoxy?

                      It is not cheaper than epoxy by any means. BUT, it's much
                      easier to work with and it sets up in a couple hours and you
                      can continue building. That's the advantage. Where I use it,
                      I would use more epoxy because of the waste. I never seem to
                      be able to mix up the exact amount needed. With a squeeze
                      bottle you use what you need. It's still more expensive but
                      not terribly so and you pay for convenience.

                      Jeff
                    • rnlocnil
                      Yes, but does it have any strength when the parts don t have a tight fit? Epoxy is pretty good stuff for filling small gaps (or large ones, if you can afford
                      Message 10 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                      • 0 Attachment
                        Yes, but does it have any strength when the parts don't have a tight
                        fit? Epoxy is pretty good stuff for filling small gaps (or large ones,
                        if you can afford it).
                        --- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
                        > >
                        > >>Polyurethane glue; snip
                      • brucehallman
                        ... Whim and not much else. I think the Gorilla Glue swells up by 3 or 4 times, so a pint equals perhaps a quart of thickened epoxy. Also, I feel that
                        Message 11 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                        • 0 Attachment
                          --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:

                          > At $7/pint that's $56/gallon -- more than Raka epoxy.
                          > Why not use epoxy?

                          Whim and not much else. I think the Gorilla Glue swells up by 3 or 4
                          times, so a pint equals perhaps a quart of thickened epoxy. Also, I
                          feel that dealing with a squeeze bottle, versus mixing up a batch
                          from two parts, is a little easier.

                          The real reason I switched, was that day last weekend when I was
                          working outdoors in the pouring rain, with very wet wood. The glue
                          joint I made with epoxy fell apart; disgusted, I ran to the store and
                          bought the Gorilla Glue and discovered that it sticks even better
                          when things are wet.
                        • nettech22407
                          I have used gorilla glue as well as epoxy, and PL premium. My experience indicates that the epoxy is the strongest. The PL is is a little sensative to surface
                          Message 12 of 14 , Jun 2, 2002
                          • 0 Attachment
                            I have used gorilla glue as well as epoxy, and PL premium.

                            My experience indicates that the epoxy is the strongest. The PL is
                            is a little sensative to surface prep, it doesn't seem to like laytex
                            paint. I found that the GG used in loose joints is shock sensative.
                            I found this out the hard way, my 15' skiff slid off of the saw
                            horses I had it on. Where I only used GG to join the frames and
                            there were gaps, the shock of the fall knocked the frames off of the
                            plywood sides. Where I used 3M 5200 there was no problems. I had
                            used 5200 on the port side and GG on the starboard side. The GG
                            joint separated without damaging the underlying wood.

                            From working with all the above glues, I have come to like 3M 5200.
                            The regular version sets in 4 hours and takes up to 4 days to fully
                            cure. The fast cure 5200 sets in 45 minutes and cures in one day.
                            It will bridge gaps of up to 3/8" or 9mm. When it cures it does not
                            foam. When cured, it has the consistancy of the rubber used in
                            skateboard wheels. On bare wood, removing it requires taking away
                            some of the underlying wood. The downside to this glue, is you
                            should clean up right away, it is a bear to sand off drips.


                            >snip
                            >--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
                            > --- In bolger@y..., teakdeck@a... wrote:
                            > > Gorilla glue.
                            >
                            > http://www.gorillaglue.com/
                            >
                            > Polyurethane glue; and it is new to me. Someone here recommended
                            it
                            > a few weeks back. I am using a 'generic' version of the brand name
                            > stuff, $7 a pint. I like that it has GREAT adhesion, it is
                            *really*
                            > snip
                          • dbaldnz
                            Sorry Bruce, but I cannot understand your logic at all on this one. All epoxy labels say the wood must be dry. Gorilla labels say the joint should be damp.
                            Message 13 of 14 , Jun 3, 2002
                            • 0 Attachment
                              Sorry Bruce, but I cannot understand your logic at all on this one.
                              All epoxy labels say the wood must be dry.
                              Gorilla labels say the joint should be damp.
                              What would you expect?
                              DonB

                              --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
                              > --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
                              >
                              > The real reason I switched, was that day last weekend when I was
                              > working outdoors in the pouring rain, with very wet wood. The glue
                              > joint I made with epoxy fell apart; disgusted, I ran to the store
                              and
                              > bought the Gorilla Glue and discovered that it sticks even better
                              > when things are wet.
                            • donm172001
                              ... A great resource for learning how to lay out and spile strakes is The Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual by Iain Oughtred. It also has a wealth of
                              Message 14 of 14 , Jun 6, 2002
                              • 0 Attachment
                                --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
                                > I am still plugging away at my lapstrake learning experiment with
                                > Spur II [BWAOM]. My strakes are very far from 'correct', but never
                                > the less, I think the boat will float. I learned enough about how
                                > strakes fall on frames that "next time" I bet I can make proper
                                > strakes [perhaps]. The boat is extremely light weight.
                                >
                                > I think that using 1/8" plywood to "plank" a boat is quicker than
                                > using 1/4" redwood strips. Gorilla glue is excellent stuff.
                                >
                                > http://www.hallman.org/bolger/spur/hour40/


                                A great resource for learning how to lay out and spile strakes is
                                "The Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual" by Iain Oughtred. It also
                                has a wealth of information on building lapstrake plywood boats. It
                                is available at Amazon and the WoodenBoat Store.
                              Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.