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Re: galvanized

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  • timothyennuinet
    ... bronze ... If you don t mind screw and glue rather than nail and glue , galvanized drywall screws are VERY cheap. Countersinking and 5200 does the
    Message 1 of 11 , Jan 2, 2002
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      --- In bolger@y..., "Luke S" <biggie@d...> wrote:
      > Heya Will.I agree with galvanized rigging, its more ductile than
      > stainless.Galvanized fittings on deck work as well.
      > Im thinking if I used galvanized nails, sank the heads just below the
      > surface and epoxy puttied them.
      > The gal nails I can find here (Australia) dont look bad at all.
      > Just thinking of a cheap boat, 250g of gal nails = $3.85, 250g of
      bronze
      > ringshank =$16 to $17.00.

      If you don't mind 'screw and glue' rather than 'nail and glue',
      galvanized drywall screws are VERY cheap. Countersinking and 5200 does
      the trick. I've used a dremel tool for the pilot holes and that can
      make it go pretty quickly. :)

      On another note, I've liked the idea of galvanized rigging for quite
      some time, since I was privy to inspect the parceled and served,
      detached rigging from an old schooner.. it was as bright an shiny as
      new! I'm sure the trick is taking care with the parcel/serve.

      I'm told that using cloth electrical tape (you know, the gummy stuff)
      + 'marline' is the best bet these days. Anyone have experience doing
      this and can offer tips? I know the basic process... materials advice
      would be most helpful! I don't know if I want to get down and dirty
      with tar and canvas! ;)

      --T
    • thomas dalzell
      I haven t seen Galvi drywall screws, are they called that, or something else like deck screws? ______________________________________________________ Send
      Message 2 of 11 , Jan 2, 2002
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        I haven't seen Galvi drywall screws, are they called
        that, or something else like deck screws?

        ______________________________________________________
        Send your holiday cheer with http://greetings.yahoo.ca
      • Geren W. Mortensen, Jr.
        Around here, I believe they re referred to as deck screws. ... Geren W. Mortensen, Jr. Columbia, Maryland, USA The future just isn t what it used to be. ...
        Message 3 of 11 , Jan 2, 2002
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          Around here, I believe they're referred to as deck screws.

          At 1/2/02 12:22 PM, you wrote:
          >I haven't seen Galvi drywall screws, are they called
          >that, or something else like deck screws?


          Geren W. Mortensen, Jr.
          Columbia, Maryland, USA

          "The future just isn't what it used to be."

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        • sneakeasy2000
          There is a recent book by Roger Duncan, called Dorothy Elizabeth describing the construction of his new 26 ft schooner. He swears by galvanized rigging and
          Message 4 of 11 , Jan 2, 2002
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            There is a recent book by Roger Duncan, called "Dorothy Elizabeth"
            describing the construction of his new 26 ft schooner. He swears by
            galvanized rigging and describes in detail the serving etc. in detail.

            I bought my copy from Amazon.com.

            Steve Bosquette

            --- In bolger@y..., "timothyennuinet" <timothy@e...> wrote:
            > --- In bolger@y..., "Luke S" <biggie@d...> wrote:
            > > Heya Will.I agree with galvanized rigging, its more ductile than
            > > stainless.Galvanized fittings on deck work as well.
            > > Im thinking if I used galvanized nails, sank the heads just
            below the
            > > surface and epoxy puttied them.
            > > The gal nails I can find here (Australia) dont look bad at all.
            > > Just thinking of a cheap boat, 250g of gal nails = $3.85, 250g of
            > bronze
            > > ringshank =$16 to $17.00.
            >
            > If you don't mind 'screw and glue' rather than 'nail and glue',
            > galvanized drywall screws are VERY cheap. Countersinking and 5200
            does
            > the trick. I've used a dremel tool for the pilot holes and that can
            > make it go pretty quickly. :)
            >
            > On another note, I've liked the idea of galvanized rigging for quite
            > some time, since I was privy to inspect the parceled and served,
            > detached rigging from an old schooner.. it was as bright an shiny as
            > new! I'm sure the trick is taking care with the parcel/serve.
            >
            > I'm told that using cloth electrical tape (you know, the gummy
            stuff)
            > + 'marline' is the best bet these days. Anyone have experience doing
            > this and can offer tips? I know the basic process... materials
            advice
            > would be most helpful! I don't know if I want to get down and dirty
            > with tar and canvas! ;)
            >
            > --T
          • pvanderwaart
            ... this info. I have this book and used the advice in to when putting a serving on my shrouds to hold the spreader tips in the right place. The instructions
            Message 5 of 11 , Jan 2, 2002
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              > Brian Toss's "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" is the source for
              this info.

              I have this book and used the advice in to when putting a serving on
              my shrouds to hold the spreader tips in the right place. The
              instructions call for "friction tape." Toss has a strong preference
              for either white or black, I forget which.

              Anyway, in my store there was only black, and the primary suggested
              use was taping hockey sticks.

              Peter
            • Harry W. James
              Brian Toss s The Complete Rigger s Apprentice is the source for this info. He maintains that galvanized rigging that is parceled served and maintained
              Message 6 of 11 , Jan 2, 2002
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                Brian Toss's "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" is the source for this
                info. He maintains that galvanized rigging that is parceled served and
                maintained properly is good for a 100 years. He says it will last much
                longer than Stainless because of fewer problems with fatigue. Bet you
                never heard that one from your marine hardware store.

                Well written, informative book still in print.

                HJ

                >
                > On another note, I've liked the idea of galvanized rigging for quite
                > some time, since I was privy to inspect the parceled and served,
                > detached rigging from an old schooner.. it was as bright an shiny as
                > new! I'm sure the trick is taking care with the parcel/serve.
                >
                > I'm told that using cloth electrical tape (you know, the gummy stuff)
                > + 'marline' is the best bet these days. Anyone have experience doing
                > this and can offer tips? I know the basic process... materials advice
                > would be most helpful! I don't know if I want to get down and dirty
                > with tar and canvas! ;)
                >
                > --T
                >
              • David Ryan
                Beuhler makes a strong case of galvanized, mostly of the boat/no boat variety. ... C.E.P. 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor New York, New York 10001
                Message 7 of 11 , Jan 2, 2002
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                  Beuhler makes a strong case of galvanized, mostly of the boat/no boat variety.


                  >Brian Toss's "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" is the source for this
                  >info. He maintains that galvanized rigging that is parceled served and
                  >maintained properly is good for a 100 years. He says it will last much
                  >longer than Stainless because of fewer problems with fatigue. Bet you
                  >never heard that one from your marine hardware store.
                  >
                  >Well written, informative book still in print.
                  >
                  >HJ
                  >
                  >>
                  >> On another note, I've liked the idea of galvanized rigging for quite
                  >> some time, since I was privy to inspect the parceled and served,
                  >> detached rigging from an old schooner.. it was as bright an shiny as
                  >> new! I'm sure the trick is taking care with the parcel/serve.
                  >>
                  >> I'm told that using cloth electrical tape (you know, the gummy stuff)
                  >> + 'marline' is the best bet these days. Anyone have experience doing
                  >> this and can offer tips? I know the basic process... materials advice
                  >> would be most helpful! I don't know if I want to get down and dirty
                  >> with tar and canvas! ;)
                  >>
                  >> --T
                  >>
                  >
                  >
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                  >
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                  C.E.P.
                  134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
                  New York, New York 10001
                  http://www.crumblingempire.com
                  (212) 247-0296
                • Harry W. James
                  Mc Feely s at http://www.mcfeelys.com/ has about any kind of deck or sheet rock screw, plus a description of what they are and something about the materials
                  Message 8 of 11 , Jan 2, 2002
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                    Mc Feely's at

                    http://www.mcfeelys.com/

                    has about any kind of deck or sheet rock screw, plus a description of
                    what they are and something about the materials they are made out of.

                    HJ


                    "Geren W. Mortensen, Jr." wrote:
                    >
                    > Around here, I believe they're referred to as deck screws.
                    >
                    > At 1/2/02 12:22 PM, you wrote:
                    > >I haven't seen Galvi drywall screws, are they called
                    > >that, or something else like deck screws?
                    >
                    > Geren W. Mortensen, Jr.
                    > Columbia, Maryland, USA
                    >
                    > "The future just isn't what it used to be."
                    >
                    > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    >
                  • rdchamberland
                    When I was a young teen at Cass Tech in Detroit my electrical wiring course taught us to wrap soldered splices with first rubber tape then friction tape.
                    Message 9 of 11 , Jan 3, 2002
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                      When I was a young teen at Cass Tech in Detroit my electrical wiring
                      course taught us to wrap soldered splices with first rubber tape then
                      friction tape. However I had earlier learned to wrap baseballs that
                      were coming apart, wrap bicycle tire holes with the tape to keep the
                      inner tube in. For a kid friction tape was the equivalent of the
                      present day "duct tape".
                      Bob Chamberland



                      --- In bolger@y..., "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@y...> wrote:
                      > > Brian Toss's "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" is the source for
                      > this info.
                      >
                      > I have this book and used the advice in to when putting a serving on
                      > my shrouds to hold the spreader tips in the right place. The
                      > instructions call for "friction tape." Toss has a strong preference
                      > for either white or black, I forget which.
                      >
                      > Anyway, in my store there was only black, and the primary suggested
                      > use was taping hockey sticks.
                      >
                      > Peter
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