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Re: [bolger] Re: Wyoming

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  • Chuck Leinweber
    Jeff: I used to do all my taped joints this way. One time, I was doing a really quick and dirty boat, and I decided to try applying them right on top of the
    Message 1 of 95 , Jan 1, 2002
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      Jeff:

      I used to do all my taped joints this way. One time, I was doing a really quick and dirty boat, and I decided to try applying them right on top of the ply, as I have heard suggested. I did not cove or sand the ply at all, and overall, it was a lot less work. I figured the joints would be ugly, but I could not see them at all! Feather the edges a bit, and I challenge you to spot them on the finished product. I used this technique on my Caprice. Try it, you'll like it.

      Chuck
      <snip> I use a belt sander to hollow out the joint and make space for the tape making fairing much easier. <snip>

      Jeff


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    • stephensonhw@aol.com
      In a message dated 17-07-02 12:03:28 AM E. Australia Standard Time, ... But electrolytic corrosion can happen without any external source of electrical
      Message 95 of 95 , Jul 16, 2002
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        In a message dated 17-07-02 12:03:28 AM E. Australia Standard Time,
        boatbuilding@... writes:


        > . All the outboard connections are insulated from
        > the boat except for the battery and it's isolated from the hull.

        But electrolytic corrosion can happen without any external source of
        electrical current. Try immersing a piece of aluminum in a bucket of salt
        water together with a piece of copper (or a cupro-nickel coin). The
        dissimilar metals produce their own electrical current as the aluminum is
        eaten away.

        Crocodile hunters had to be very careful not to leave brass shell casings in
        the bottom of their aluminum dinghies, else the brass would very quickly
        corrode a hole in the bottom.

        Howard

        Howard


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