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Block Parts?

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  • Harry W. James
    Yo bolger dudes and dudettes Where can you find kits or parts to make blocks. I am interested in all sizes from small to large. If you have to rig a gaff rig
    Message 1 of 23 , Oct 30 9:53 PM
      Yo bolger dudes and dudettes

      Where can you find kits or parts to make blocks. I am interested in
      all sizes from small to large. If you have to rig a gaff rig you can
      spend an incredible amount if you buy off the (West Marine) shelf.

      HJ
    • Derek Waters
      Hi Harry Why not make them from scratch? I ve been having fun making wee rope stropped blocks for our (under construction) Chinese Gaffer . Materials and
      Message 2 of 23 , Oct 31 12:21 AM
        Hi Harry

        Why not make them from scratch? I've been having fun making wee rope
        stropped blocks for our (under construction) 'Chinese Gaffer'. Materials and
        'parts' are all readily available mail order if not at the local store, and
        the required skill set isn't huge either. Prior to starting, I looked around
        without success for published instructions. With a few blocks made, I've
        been kicking around the idea of writing the process up as a web page or
        seeing if Duckworks would be interested in an article.....

        Derek
      • Larry Barker
        There a plans with a materials list in the Sailor s Sketchbook by Bruce Bingham. According to the text, the motivation for making his own blocks was the
        Message 3 of 23 , Oct 31 7:23 AM
          There a plans with a materials list in "the Sailor's Sketchbook" by Bruce
          Bingham. According to the text, the motivation for making his own blocks
          was the cost of rigging a gaff schooner. Interesting book in any case - 76
          projects mostly for customizing small sailboats.

          $13.56 at Amazon - they've posted some sample pages and the Table of
          Contents on their web pages. Go to http://www.amazon.com and search for
          "Sailor's Sketchbook" under books.

          Larry Barker
          Talent, Oregon

          ----- Original Message -----
          From: "Derek Waters" <dgw@...>
          To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 12:21 AM
          Subject: Re: [bolger] Block Parts?


          > Hi Harry
          >
          > Why not make them from scratch? I've been having fun making wee rope
          > stropped blocks for our (under construction) 'Chinese Gaffer'. Materials
          and
          > 'parts' are all readily available mail order if not at the local store,
          and
          > the required skill set isn't huge either. Prior to starting, I looked
          around
          > without success for published instructions. With a few blocks made, I've
          > been kicking around the idea of writing the process up as a web page or
          > seeing if Duckworks would be interested in an article.....
          >
          > Derek
        • richard@spellingbusiness.com
          I m making my own, just got in the delrin for the sheaves from McMaster-Carr. Will cast the bodies out of aluminum, with stainless pins, and maybe attachemnt
          Message 4 of 23 , Oct 31 2:35 PM
            I'm making my own, just got in the delrin for the sheaves from
            McMaster-Carr. Will cast the bodies out of aluminum, with stainless
            pins, and maybe attachemnt points. Corrosion may eventual seize the
            stainless to the aluminum, but I don't plan to ever take them appart,
            and the only moving part will be the delrin sheave, which will turn
            on stainless pins.

            I plan on casting the bodies with sand cores, so they are one solid
            piece, should be an interesting winter project.


            --- In bolger@y..., "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...> wrote:
            > Yo bolger dudes and dudettes
            >
            > Where can you find kits or parts to make blocks. I am interested in
            > all sizes from small to large. If you have to rig a gaff rig you can
            > spend an incredible amount if you buy off the (West Marine) shelf.
            >
            > HJ
          • jhkohnen@boat-links.com
            Richard- Why aluminum bodies? I ve got some strapless wooden blocks on Pickle, and while they re far from perfect in other respects the hardwood shells handle
            Message 5 of 23 , Oct 31 6:54 PM
              Richard-

              Why aluminum bodies? I've got some strapless wooden blocks on Pickle, and
              while they're far from perfect in other respects the hardwood shells handle
              the strains of a small boat just fine with no metal straps or rope strops,
              and it's much nicer to have chunks of wood rattling around than lumps of
              metal. Here's a crude sketch of what my blocks look like, pretty simple
              except for the mortising for the nubbins on the becket. Frankly, if I was
              replacing them (and I may one of these days) I'd lose the bronze becket and
              make a solid wood shell and use a rope strop. BTW, small scraps of harwood
              suitable for small boat block shells can often be found for peanuts at
              hardwood dealers or cabinet shops.

              http://www.boat-links.com/images/Block.gif

              On Wed, 31 Oct 2001 22:35:52 -0000, Richard Spelling wrote:
              > I'm making my own, just got in the delrin for the sheaves from
              > McMaster-Carr. Will cast the bodies out of aluminum, with stainless
              > pins, and maybe attachemnt points. Corrosion may eventual seize the
              > stainless to the aluminum, but I don't plan to ever take them appart,
              > and the only moving part will be the delrin sheave, which will turn
              > on stainless pins.
              >
              > I plan on casting the bodies with sand cores, so they are one solid
              > piece, should be an interesting winter project.

              --
              John <jkohnen@...>
              http://www.boat-links.com/
              I care not for a man's religion whose dog or cat are not the better for it.
              <Abraham Lincoln>
            • pvanderw@optonline.net
              I have never looked into this. Would you save a lot if you made your own hardwood shells and bought replacement sheaves? Peter
              Message 6 of 23 , Nov 1, 2001
                I have never looked into this. Would you save a lot if you made your
                own hardwood shells and bought "replacement" sheaves?

                Peter
              • richard@spellingbusiness.com
                How thick are your hardwood shells? Red Oak: http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=PTSAV&group=General shows a tensile strength of 798psi A common
                Message 7 of 23 , Nov 1, 2001
                  How thick are your hardwood shells?

                  Red Oak:
                  http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=PTSAV&group=General
                  shows a tensile strength of 798psi

                  A common cast aluminum alloy:
                  http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?
                  bassnum=MAC320&group=General
                  tensile strength of 14,069psi

                  So, you should be able to make the cheeks quite a bit thinner if made
                  of al. Say, for a breaking strength of 2000 lb, with a 4x safety
                  margin, you would only need about 1/2" cross sectional area on your
                  aluminum cheaks, but would need a cross sectional area of 10 sq
                  inches out of red oak...

                  My math probably screwed up, but good enough for comparisons.

                  --- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:
                  > Richard-
                  >
                  > Why aluminum bodies? I've got some strapless wooden blocks on
                  Pickle, and
                  > while they're far from perfect in other respects the hardwood
                  shells handle
                  > the strains of a small boat just fine with no metal straps or rope
                  strops,
                  > and it's much nicer to have chunks of wood rattling around than
                  lumps of
                  > metal. Here's a crude sketch of what my blocks look like, pretty
                  simple
                  > except for the mortising for the nubbins on the becket. Frankly, if
                  I was
                  > replacing them (and I may one of these days) I'd lose the bronze
                  becket and
                  > make a solid wood shell and use a rope strop. BTW, small scraps of
                  harwood
                  > suitable for small boat block shells can often be found for peanuts
                  at
                  > hardwood dealers or cabinet shops.
                  >
                  > http://www.boat-links.com/images/Block.gif
                  >
                  > On Wed, 31 Oct 2001 22:35:52 -0000, Richard Spelling wrote:
                  > > I'm making my own, just got in the delrin for the sheaves from
                  > > McMaster-Carr. Will cast the bodies out of aluminum, with
                  stainless
                  > > pins, and maybe attachemnt points. Corrosion may eventual seize
                  the
                  > > stainless to the aluminum, but I don't plan to ever take them
                  appart,
                  > > and the only moving part will be the delrin sheave, which will
                  turn
                  > > on stainless pins.
                  > >
                  > > I plan on casting the bodies with sand cores, so they are one
                  solid
                  > > piece, should be an interesting winter project.
                  >
                  > --
                  > John <jkohnen@b...>
                  > http://www.boat-links.com/
                  > I care not for a man's religion whose dog or cat are not the
                  better for it.
                  > <Abraham Lincoln>
                • pateson@colton.com
                  Good information all. General Information. Avoid using Red Oak in boats. It s cell structure is porous. It Will absorb water. Try this at home. Take a short
                  Message 8 of 23 , Nov 1, 2001
                    Good information all.

                    General Information.
                    Avoid using "Red" Oak in boats.
                    It's cell structure is porous.
                    It Will absorb water.

                    Try this at home.
                    Take a short piece of Red Oak.
                    Put one End in a bowl of water.
                    Blow on the other end.
                    Tiny bubbles. Pretty cool, but Not what
                    I want on My boat.

                    Wood vs Other.

                    My preference would be wood, probably White Oak.
                    It is relativly cheap, quite strong, and available.
                    I think wood just "Goes Better" with wooden boats.
                    It can, and has for a long time, been used on "Traditional
                    Boats".
                    I can live with the trade of "Bulk for Strenght".
                    Wood is also less "Dammaging" to spars, topside, and sails,
                    and heads,(mine, not the other kind) when it bangs around.
                    Wood must be used "Properly". It takes more attention.
                    One must pay attention to "Grain direction". Metal's got none.
                    For Me, working with wood is easier that "Casting Metal".
                    But, I make My living as a "Woodworker".

                    If Metal is the choice, then why stop with aluminum?
                    Wouldn't titanium or some other exotic metal be "Stronger"?
                    Turn your new Golf Driver into a "Block".

                    "Plastics"
                    I wish I had listen to that guy in "The Graduate".
                    Really are wonderful materials, used properly.
                    I use them, and like it.

                    "I also use power tools." (There, I said it.)

                    Not an attempt at any "Argument", just a preference.

                    It is nice to know the pros and cons, and to be able
                    to make informed choices.

                    All you folks really Are a Wealth of experience and knowlege.
                    I hope we save each other from making regretable mistakes.

                    Not many "Wooden Blocks" on America's Cup Boats.
                    Come to think of it, not much "Wood". They're nice.

                    We all do, and use, what we want in the end, anyway.

                    Boy, I wish I hadn't built that first boat with the
                    "Free" Alder I found at that cabinet shop.
                    Don't do That too. Bad Idea!
                    (It Was such a "Nice" boat too.)

                    Pat Patteson
                    Still learning.
                    Molalla, Oregon






                    --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
                    > How thick are your hardwood shells?
                    >
                    > Red Oak:
                    > http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?
                    bassnum=PTSAV&group=General
                    > shows a tensile strength of 798psi
                    >
                    > A common cast aluminum alloy:
                    > http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?
                    > bassnum=MAC320&group=General
                    > tensile strength of 14,069psi
                    >
                    > So, you should be able to make the cheeks quite a bit thinner if
                    made
                    > of al. Say, for a breaking strength of 2000 lb, with a 4x safety
                    > margin, you would only need about 1/2" cross sectional area on your
                    > aluminum cheaks, but would need a cross sectional area of 10 sq
                    > inches out of red oak...
                    >
                    > My math probably screwed up, but good enough for comparisons.
                    >
                    > --- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:
                    > > Richard-
                    > >
                    > > Why aluminum bodies? I've got some strapless wooden blocks on
                    > Pickle, and
                    > > while they're far from perfect in other respects the hardwood
                    > shells handle
                    > > the strains of a small boat just fine with no metal straps or
                    rope
                    > strops,
                    > > and it's much nicer to have chunks of wood rattling around than
                    > lumps of
                    > > metal. Here's a crude sketch of what my blocks look like, pretty
                    > simple
                    > > except for the mortising for the nubbins on the becket. Frankly,
                    if
                    > I was
                    > > replacing them (and I may one of these days) I'd lose the bronze
                    > becket and
                    > > make a solid wood shell and use a rope strop. BTW, small scraps
                    of
                    > harwood
                    > > suitable for small boat block shells can often be found for
                    peanuts
                    > at
                    > > hardwood dealers or cabinet shops.
                    > >
                    > > http://www.boat-links.com/images/Block.gif
                    > >
                    > > On Wed, 31 Oct 2001 22:35:52 -0000, Richard Spelling wrote:
                    > > > I'm making my own, just got in the delrin for the sheaves from
                    > > > McMaster-Carr. Will cast the bodies out of aluminum, with
                    > stainless
                    > > > pins, and maybe attachemnt points. Corrosion may eventual seize
                    > the
                    > > > stainless to the aluminum, but I don't plan to ever take them
                    > appart,
                    > > > and the only moving part will be the delrin sheave, which will
                    > turn
                    > > > on stainless pins.
                    > > >
                    > > > I plan on casting the bodies with sand cores, so they are one
                    > solid
                    > > > piece, should be an interesting winter project.
                    > >
                    > > --
                    > > John <jkohnen@b...>
                    > > http://www.boat-links.com/
                    > > I care not for a man's religion whose dog or cat are not the
                    > better for it.
                    > > <Abraham Lincoln>
                  • thomas dalzell
                    White oak is nice stuff, but won t your straw trick yield the same result? It is ring pourous also. I haven t used red oak in a boat either, but I suspect
                    Message 9 of 23 , Nov 1, 2001
                      White oak is nice stuff, but won't your straw trick
                      yield the same result? It is ring pourous also. I
                      haven't used red oak in a boat either, but I suspect
                      that if you coat your sample in epoxy, let it harden,
                      and repeat your test, you will get a different result
                      ;o).

                      If I lived out your way I would use a lot of that S
                      spruce and D fir.


                      --- pateson@... wrote:

                      <HR>
                      <html><body>
                      <tt>
                      Good information all.<BR>
                      <BR>
                      General Information.<BR>
                      Avoid using "Red" Oak in boats.<BR>
                      It's cell structure is porous.<BR>
                      It Will absorb water.<BR>
                      <BR>
                      Try this at home.<BR>
                      Take a short piece of Red Oak.<BR>
                      Put one End in a bowl of water.<BR>
                      Blow on the other end.<BR>
                      Tiny bubbles.  Pretty cool, but Not what<BR>
                      I want on My boat.<BR>
                      <BR>
                      Wood vs Other.<BR>
                      <BR>
                      My preference would be wood, probably White Oak.<BR>
                      It is relativly cheap, quite strong, and
                      available.<BR>
                      I think wood just "Goes Better" with wooden
                      boats.<BR>
                      It can, and has for a long time, been used on
                      "Traditional<BR>
                      Boats".<BR>
                      I can live with the trade of "Bulk for
                      Strenght".<BR>
                      Wood is also less "Dammaging" to spars,
                      topside, and sails,<BR>
                      and heads,(mine, not the other kind) when it bangs
                      around.<BR>
                      Wood must be used "Properly". It takes more
                      attention.<BR>
                      One must pay attention to "Grain direction".
                      Metal's got none.<BR>
                      For Me, working with wood is easier that "Casting
                      Metal".<BR>
                      But, I make My living as a "Woodworker".<BR>
                      <BR>
                      If Metal is the choice, then why stop with
                      aluminum?<BR>
                      Wouldn't titanium or some other exotic metal be
                      "Stronger"?<BR>
                      Turn your new Golf Driver into a
                      "Block".<BR>
                      <BR>
                      "Plastics"<BR>
                      I wish I had listen to that guy in "The
                      Graduate".<BR>
                      Really are wonderful materials, used properly.<BR>
                      I use them, and like it. <BR>
                      <BR>
                      "I also use power tools." (There, I said
                      it.)<BR>
                      <BR>
                      Not an attempt at any "Argument", just a
                      preference.<BR>
                      <BR>
                      It is nice to know the pros and cons, and to be able
                      <BR>
                      to make informed choices.<BR>
                      <BR>
                      All you folks really Are a Wealth of experience and
                      knowlege.<BR>
                      I hope we save each other from making regretable
                      mistakes.<BR>
                      <BR>
                      Not many "Wooden Blocks" on America's Cup
                      Boats.<BR>
                      Come to think of it, not much "Wood". 
                      They're nice.<BR>
                      <BR>
                      We all do, and use, what we want in the end,
                      anyway.<BR>
                      <BR>
                      Boy, I wish I hadn't built that first boat with
                      the<BR>
                      "Free" Alder I found at that cabinet shop.
                      <BR>
                      Don't do That too.  Bad Idea!<BR>
                      (It Was such a "Nice" boat too.)<BR>
                      <BR>
                      Pat Patteson<BR>
                      Still learning.<BR>
                      Molalla, Oregon<BR>
                      <BR>
                      <BR>
                      <BR>
                      <BR>
                      <BR>
                      <BR>
                      --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:<BR>
                      > How thick are your hardwood shells?<BR>
                      > <BR>
                      > Red Oak:<BR>
                      > <a
                      href="http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?">http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?</a><BR>
                      bassnum=PTSAV&group=General<BR>
                      > shows a tensile strength of 798psi<BR>
                      > <BR>
                      > A common cast aluminum alloy:<BR>
                      > <a
                      href="http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?">http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?</a><BR>
                      > bassnum=MAC320&group=General<BR>
                      > tensile strength of 14,069psi<BR>
                      > <BR>
                      > So, you should be able to make the cheeks quite a
                      bit thinner if <BR>
                      made <BR>
                      > of al. Say, for a breaking strength of 2000 lb,
                      with a 4x safety <BR>
                      > margin, you would only need about 1/2" cross
                      sectional area on your <BR>
                      > aluminum cheaks, but would need a cross sectional
                      area of 10 sq <BR>
                      > inches out of red oak...<BR>
                      > <BR>
                      > My math probably screwed up, but good enough for
                      comparisons.<BR>
                      > <BR>
                      > --- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:<BR>
                      > > Richard-<BR>
                      > > <BR>
                      > > Why aluminum bodies? I've got some strapless
                      wooden blocks on <BR>
                      > Pickle, and<BR>
                      > > while they're far from perfect in other
                      respects the hardwood <BR>
                      > shells handle<BR>
                      > > the strains of a small boat just fine with
                      no metal straps or <BR>
                      rope <BR>
                      > strops,<BR>
                      > > and it's much nicer to have chunks of wood
                      rattling around than <BR>
                      > lumps of<BR>
                      > > metal. Here's a crude sketch of what my
                      blocks look like, pretty <BR>
                      > simple<BR>
                      > > except for the mortising for the nubbins on
                      the becket. Frankly, <BR>
                      if <BR>
                      > I was<BR>
                      > > replacing them (and I may one of these days)
                      I'd lose the bronze <BR>
                      > becket and<BR>
                      > > make a solid wood shell and use a rope
                      strop. BTW, small scraps <BR>
                      of <BR>
                      > harwood<BR>
                      > > suitable for small boat block shells can
                      often be found for <BR>
                      peanuts <BR>
                      > at<BR>
                      > > hardwood dealers or cabinet shops.<BR>
                      > > <BR>
                      > > <a
                      href="http://www.boat-links.com/images/Block.gif">http://www.boat-links.com/images/Block.gif</a><BR>
                      > > <BR>
                      > > On Wed, 31 Oct 2001 22:35:52 -0000, Richard
                      Spelling wrote:<BR>
                      > > > I'm making my own, just got in the
                      delrin for the sheaves from <BR>
                      > > > McMaster-Carr. Will cast the bodies out
                      of aluminum, with <BR>
                      > stainless <BR>
                      > > > pins, and maybe attachemnt points.
                      Corrosion may eventual seize <BR>
                      > the <BR>
                      > > > stainless to the aluminum, but I don't
                      plan to ever take them <BR>
                      > appart, <BR>
                      > > > and the only moving part will be the
                      delrin sheave, which will <BR>
                      > turn <BR>
                      > > > on stainless pins.<BR>
                      > > > <BR>
                      > > > I plan on casting the bodies with sand
                      cores, so they are one <BR>
                      > solid <BR>
                      > > > piece, should be an interesting winter
                      project.<BR>
                      > > <BR>
                      > > -- <BR>
                      >
                      >                         
                      John <jkohnen@b...><BR>
                      >
                      >                          
                      <a
                      href="http://www.boat-links.com/">http://www.boat-links.com/</a><BR>
                      > >   I care not for a man's religion
                      whose dog or cat are not the <BR>
                      > better for it.<BR>
                      >
                      >                               
                      <Abraham Lincoln><BR>
                      <BR>
                      </tt>

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                    • jhkohnen@boat-links.com
                      I don t know about replacement sheaves from a block manufacturer, but sheaves can be bought alone from some places for less than the cost of a block, or
                      Message 10 of 23 , Nov 1, 2001
                        I don't know about "replacement" sheaves from a block manufacturer, but
                        sheaves can be bought alone from some places for less than the cost of a
                        block, or made. If you make your blocks out of aluminum you've got to find
                        sheaves too. <g> I don't know what my strategy will be when I replace
                        Pickle's blocks, I could use my existing sheaves, though they're just a
                        tad small for the mainsheets, and bore them out for delrin sleeves or some
                        other better bearing, right now their bronze or brass on bronze or brass
                        pins.

                        On Thu, 01 Nov 2001 13:46:57 -0000, Peter wrote:
                        > I have never looked into this. Would you save a lot if you made your
                        > own hardwood shells and bought "replacement" sheaves?
                        >
                        > Peter

                        --
                        John <jkohnen@...>
                        http://www.boat-links.com/
                        Nobody ought to wear a Greek fisherman's hat unless they meet two conditions:
                        1. He is a Greek
                        2. He is a Fisherman <Roy Blount Jr.>
                      • jhkohnen@boat-links.com
                        Richard- The shells are only about 3/8 thick mahogany. I can t argue with your math, but do you really need that much strength for your application? If I had
                        Message 11 of 23 , Nov 1, 2001
                          Richard-

                          The shells are only about 3/8" thick mahogany. I can't argue with your
                          math, but do you really need that much strength for your application? If I
                          had 500 lbs working on my sheet blocks it'd yank my arm off! <g> And even
                          the turning blocks for my snotter and tack downhaul shouldn't see anywhere
                          near that much load. Of course Pickle's a small boat. If you do need the
                          strength, you could make bronze or stainless strapped, wood shell blocks.
                          The metal would take all the load, the wood would just contain the rope and
                          make a nicer surface to have rattling around. Also you'd get to do some
                          pleasant woodworking and a little metal drilling and filing instead of hot,
                          dirty foundry work. Or go ahead and get hot and dirty, I'm not trying to
                          dissuade you, we all have diferent ideas of fun. <g> I was just curious
                          about your choice of materials.

                          BTW, what are you going to use the blocks for?

                          On Thu, 01 Nov 2001 19:28:05 -0000, Richard Spelling wrote:
                          > How thick are your hardwood shells?
                          >
                          > Red Oak:
                          > http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=PTSAV&group=General
                          > shows a tensile strength of 798psi
                          >
                          > A common cast aluminum alloy:
                          > http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?
                          > bassnum=MAC320&group=General
                          > tensile strength of 14,069psi
                          >
                          > So, you should be able to make the cheeks quite a bit thinner if made
                          > of al. Say, for a breaking strength of 2000 lb, with a 4x safety
                          > margin, you would only need about 1/2" cross sectional area on your
                          > aluminum cheaks, but would need a cross sectional area of 10 sq
                          > inches out of red oak...

                          --
                          John <jkohnen@...>
                          http://www.boat-links.com/
                          The problem with people who have no vices is that generally you can be
                          pretty sure they're going to have some pretty annoying virtues.
                          <Elizabeth Taylor>
                        • richard@spellingbusiness.com
                          Common Sense Boats sells RaceLite nylon sheaves for a dollar or two. Pretty decent price, if you can get him to answer his email and if the website happens to
                          Message 12 of 23 , Nov 2, 2001
                            Common Sense Boats sells RaceLite nylon sheaves for a dollar or two.
                            Pretty decent price, if you can get him to answer his email and if
                            the website happens to be working...

                            Paided $26 for four feet of black delrin rod from McMaster, enough to
                            make 45 or so sheaves. I figure the delrin will turn on a SS pin with
                            no problems and no bearings, and I'll make the body out of aluminum.

                            No reason you couldn't make the body out of wood, with maybe some
                            strategic placement of glass and epoxy. It would certainly be
                            prettier, but I have the capability to do it out of aluminum, and
                            want the excuse to do some more core work, so I'm going to do it that
                            way.

                            --- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:
                            > I don't know about "replacement" sheaves from a block manufacturer,
                            but
                            > sheaves can be bought alone from some places for less than the cost
                            of a
                            > block, or made. If you make your blocks out of aluminum you've got
                            to find
                            > sheaves too. <g> I don't know what my strategy will be when I
                            replace
                            > Pickle's blocks, I could use my existing sheaves, though they're
                            just a
                            > tad small for the mainsheets, and bore them out for delrin sleeves
                            or some
                            > other better bearing, right now their bronze or brass on bronze or
                            brass
                            > pins.
                            >
                            > On Thu, 01 Nov 2001 13:46:57 -0000, Peter wrote:
                            > > I have never looked into this. Would you save a lot if you made
                            your
                            > > own hardwood shells and bought "replacement" sheaves?
                            > >
                            > > Peter
                            >
                            > --
                            > John <jkohnen@b...>
                            > http://www.boat-links.com/
                            > Nobody ought to wear a Greek fisherman's hat unless they meet two
                            conditions:
                            > 1. He is a Greek
                            > 2. He is a Fisherman <Roy Blount Jr.>
                          • richard@spellingbusiness.com
                            Wood will work. Stainless straps with wood will work even better. I m making all the block for the Chebacco light cruiser. Compounds on gaff, two blocks on
                            Message 13 of 23 , Nov 2, 2001
                              Wood will work. Stainless straps with wood will work even better.

                              I'm making all the block for the Chebacco light cruiser. Compounds on
                              gaff, two blocks on mast, turning blocks for halyards and reefing
                              lines, etc. Plan to lead all the lines to the cockpit so I can hoist
                              and reef from the dodger.

                              --- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:
                              > Richard-
                              >
                              > The shells are only about 3/8" thick mahogany. I can't argue with
                              your
                              > math, but do you really need that much strength for your
                              application? If I
                              > had 500 lbs working on my sheet blocks it'd yank my arm off! <g>
                              And even
                              > the turning blocks for my snotter and tack downhaul shouldn't see
                              anywhere
                              > near that much load. Of course Pickle's a small boat. If you do
                              need the
                              > strength, you could make bronze or stainless strapped, wood shell
                              blocks.
                              > The metal would take all the load, the wood would just contain the
                              rope and
                              > make a nicer surface to have rattling around. Also you'd get to do
                              some
                              > pleasant woodworking and a little metal drilling and filing instead
                              of hot,
                              > dirty foundry work. Or go ahead and get hot and dirty, I'm not
                              trying to
                              > dissuade you, we all have diferent ideas of fun. <g> I was just
                              curious
                              > about your choice of materials.
                              >
                              > BTW, what are you going to use the blocks for?
                              >
                              > On Thu, 01 Nov 2001 19:28:05 -0000, Richard Spelling wrote:
                              > > How thick are your hardwood shells?
                              > >
                              > > Red Oak:
                              > > http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?
                              bassnum=PTSAV&group=General
                              > > shows a tensile strength of 798psi
                              > >
                              > > A common cast aluminum alloy:
                              > > http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?
                              > > bassnum=MAC320&group=General
                              > > tensile strength of 14,069psi
                              > >
                              > > So, you should be able to make the cheeks quite a bit thinner if
                              made
                              > > of al. Say, for a breaking strength of 2000 lb, with a 4x safety
                              > > margin, you would only need about 1/2" cross sectional area on
                              your
                              > > aluminum cheaks, but would need a cross sectional area of 10 sq
                              > > inches out of red oak...
                              >
                              > --
                              > John <jkohnen@b...>
                              > http://www.boat-links.com/
                              > The problem with people who have no vices is that generally you
                              can be
                              > pretty sure they're going to have some pretty annoying
                              virtues.
                              > <Elizabeth Taylor>
                            • Chris Crandall
                              ... Chris Crandall crandall@ukans.edu (785) 864-4131 Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045 I have data convincingly
                              Message 14 of 23 , Nov 2, 2001
                                On Thu, 1 Nov 2001, thomas dalzell wrote:

                                > White oak is nice stuff, but won't your straw trick
                                > yield the same result? It is ring pourous also. I
                                > haven't used red oak in a boat either, but I suspect
                                > that if you coat your sample in epoxy, let it harden,
                                > and repeat your test, you will get a different result
                                > ;o).
                                >
                                > If I lived out your way I would use a lot of that S
                                > spruce and D fir.
                                >
                                >
                                > --- pateson@... wrote:
                                >
                                > <HR>
                                > <html><body>
                                > <tt>
                                > Good information all.<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > General Information.<BR>
                                > Avoid using "Red" Oak in boats.<BR>
                                > It's cell structure is porous.<BR>
                                > It Will absorb water.<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > Try this at home.<BR>
                                > Take a short piece of Red Oak.<BR>
                                > Put one End in a bowl of water.<BR>
                                > Blow on the other end.<BR>
                                > Tiny bubbles.  Pretty cool, but Not what<BR>
                                > I want on My boat.<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > Wood vs Other.<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > My preference would be wood, probably White Oak.<BR>
                                > It is relativly cheap, quite strong, and
                                > available.<BR>
                                > I think wood just "Goes Better" with wooden
                                > boats.<BR>
                                > It can, and has for a long time, been used on
                                > "Traditional<BR>
                                > Boats".<BR>
                                > I can live with the trade of "Bulk for
                                > Strenght".<BR>
                                > Wood is also less "Dammaging" to spars,
                                > topside, and sails,<BR>
                                > and heads,(mine, not the other kind) when it bangs
                                > around.<BR>
                                > Wood must be used "Properly". It takes more
                                > attention.<BR>
                                > One must pay attention to "Grain direction".
                                > Metal's got none.<BR>
                                > For Me, working with wood is easier that "Casting
                                > Metal".<BR>
                                > But, I make My living as a "Woodworker".<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > If Metal is the choice, then why stop with
                                > aluminum?<BR>
                                > Wouldn't titanium or some other exotic metal be
                                > "Stronger"?<BR>
                                > Turn your new Golf Driver into a
                                > "Block".<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > "Plastics"<BR>
                                > I wish I had listen to that guy in "The
                                > Graduate".<BR>
                                > Really are wonderful materials, used properly.<BR>
                                > I use them, and like it. <BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > "I also use power tools." (There, I said
                                > it.)<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > Not an attempt at any "Argument", just a
                                > preference.<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > It is nice to know the pros and cons, and to be able
                                > <BR>
                                > to make informed choices.<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > All you folks really Are a Wealth of experience and
                                > knowlege.<BR>
                                > I hope we save each other from making regretable
                                > mistakes.<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > Not many "Wooden Blocks" on America's Cup
                                > Boats.<BR>
                                > Come to think of it, not much "Wood". 
                                > They're nice.<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > We all do, and use, what we want in the end,
                                > anyway.<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > Boy, I wish I hadn't built that first boat with
                                > the<BR>
                                > "Free" Alder I found at that cabinet shop.
                                > <BR>
                                > Don't do That too.  Bad Idea!<BR>
                                > (It Was such a "Nice" boat too.)<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > Pat Patteson<BR>
                                > Still learning.<BR>
                                > Molalla, Oregon<BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:<BR>
                                > > How thick are your hardwood shells?<BR>
                                > > <BR>
                                > > Red Oak:<BR>
                                > > <a
                                > href="http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?">http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?</a><BR>
                                > bassnum=PTSAV&group=General<BR>
                                > > shows a tensile strength of 798psi<BR>
                                > > <BR>
                                > > A common cast aluminum alloy:<BR>
                                > > <a
                                > href="http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?">http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?</a><BR>
                                > > bassnum=MAC320&group=General<BR>
                                > > tensile strength of 14,069psi<BR>
                                > > <BR>
                                > > So, you should be able to make the cheeks quite a
                                > bit thinner if <BR>
                                > made <BR>
                                > > of al. Say, for a breaking strength of 2000 lb,
                                > with a 4x safety <BR>
                                > > margin, you would only need about 1/2" cross
                                > sectional area on your <BR>
                                > > aluminum cheaks, but would need a cross sectional
                                > area of 10 sq <BR>
                                > > inches out of red oak...<BR>
                                > > <BR>
                                > > My math probably screwed up, but good enough for
                                > comparisons.<BR>
                                > > <BR>
                                > > --- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:<BR>
                                > > > Richard-<BR>
                                > > > <BR>
                                > > > Why aluminum bodies? I've got some strapless
                                > wooden blocks on <BR>
                                > > Pickle, and<BR>
                                > > > while they're far from perfect in other
                                > respects the hardwood <BR>
                                > > shells handle<BR>
                                > > > the strains of a small boat just fine with
                                > no metal straps or <BR>
                                > rope <BR>
                                > > strops,<BR>
                                > > > and it's much nicer to have chunks of wood
                                > rattling around than <BR>
                                > > lumps of<BR>
                                > > > metal. Here's a crude sketch of what my
                                > blocks look like, pretty <BR>
                                > > simple<BR>
                                > > > except for the mortising for the nubbins on
                                > the becket. Frankly, <BR>
                                > if <BR>
                                > > I was<BR>
                                > > > replacing them (and I may one of these days)
                                > I'd lose the bronze <BR>
                                > > becket and<BR>
                                > > > make a solid wood shell and use a rope
                                > strop. BTW, small scraps <BR>
                                > of <BR>
                                > > harwood<BR>
                                > > > suitable for small boat block shells can
                                > often be found for <BR>
                                > peanuts <BR>
                                > > at<BR>
                                > > > hardwood dealers or cabinet shops.<BR>
                                > > > <BR>
                                > > > <a
                                > href="http://www.boat-links.com/images/Block.gif">http://www.boat-links.com/images/Block.gif</a><BR>
                                > > > <BR>
                                > > > On Wed, 31 Oct 2001 22:35:52 -0000, Richard
                                > Spelling wrote:<BR>
                                > > > > I'm making my own, just got in the
                                > delrin for the sheaves from <BR>
                                > > > > McMaster-Carr. Will cast the bodies out
                                > of aluminum, with <BR>
                                > > stainless <BR>
                                > > > > pins, and maybe attachemnt points.
                                > Corrosion may eventual seize <BR>
                                > > the <BR>
                                > > > > stainless to the aluminum, but I don't
                                > plan to ever take them <BR>
                                > > appart, <BR>
                                > > > > and the only moving part will be the
                                > delrin sheave, which will <BR>
                                > > turn <BR>
                                > > > > on stainless pins.<BR>
                                > > > > <BR>
                                > > > > I plan on casting the bodies with sand
                                > cores, so they are one <BR>
                                > > solid <BR>
                                > > > > piece, should be an interesting winter
                                > project.<BR>
                                > > > <BR>
                                > > > -- <BR>
                                > >
                                > >                         
                                > John <jkohnen@b...><BR>
                                > >
                                > >                          
                                > <a
                                > href="http://www.boat-links.com/">http://www.boat-links.com/</a><BR>
                                > > >   I care not for a man's religion
                                > whose dog or cat are not the <BR>
                                > > better for it.<BR>
                                > >
                                > >                               
                                > <Abraham Lincoln><BR>
                                > <BR>
                                > </tt>
                                >
                                > <br>
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                                > snip all you like<BR>
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                                Chris Crandall crandall@... (785) 864-4131
                                Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
                                I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
                              • pateson@colton.com
                                White Oak has a closed cell structure. No tiny bubbles, boo, but no water in the wood either. That is one of the Major differences between the two. You could
                                Message 15 of 23 , Nov 2, 2001
                                  White Oak has a closed cell structure.
                                  No tiny bubbles, boo, but no water in the wood either.
                                  That is one of the Major differences between the two.

                                  You could "Coat" Red Oak with Epoxy, but would you
                                  have a "Wooden Block" or a "Red Oak Cored Epoxy Block"?

                                  The white oak is inherently water resistant, so if
                                  you were to get a Chip in the Epoxy, it would not
                                  absorb water the way Red Oak would.

                                  Doug Fir Is Great for boat building.
                                  Light, relatively water resistant, but not nearly
                                  as strong as White oak.
                                  Unfortunately, Vertical Grain Old Growth Doug Fir,
                                  is More Expensive today than Red or White Oak.

                                  The Reason for that is simple.
                                  Not to get too Political, but, part of the "Spotted Owl vs.
                                  Hard Working Loggers", argument, that gets left out,
                                  is that there just Aren't many 400 year old Douglas Fir Trees Left.
                                  Estimates are 2-10% of what once was.
                                  And fewer today than yesterday. Going, going, …..
                                  Weyerhouser, "Georgia" Pacific, "Louisiana" Pacific,
                                  Crown Z, and the Power Pole company that moved our
                                  family to Oregon when I was 3 in 1952, did not send
                                  all their People out to Oregon because it is a nice
                                  place to raise a family. It is, but they All came
                                  here because there were "Endless Forests" of 400+
                                  year old Douglas Fir Trees.
                                  Most of those companies came from where they had
                                  already cut most of the "Endless Forest" somewhere else.
                                  They came, they cut, they left, to find other "Endless Forests".
                                  They actually Moved entire Saw Mills, part by part,
                                  from Oregon, to South America and Siberia.
                                  The Pole Plant My Dad ran Closed in 1975.
                                  Way before the "Spotted Owl" thing, because Most
                                  of the 150 foot old growth poles were gone, even then,
                                  or, too expensive to exploit.
                                  Many of the Timber companies try to blame the
                                  "Spotted Owl" and "Environmentalist Tree huggers", for the
                                  demise of the "Timber Industry" in Oregon, and the loss of
                                  thousands of jobs.
                                  Sometimes, they call those who try to protect the few remaining
                                  Habitats, "Eco-terrorists". (That should "Sell" even better now.)
                                  There still are to be a few, mostly young, longhaired types,
                                  (like I was, when I had hair), that put their lives on
                                  the line to try to "Save" the few habitats left. They have
                                  been pretty much "Marginalized", and the cutting continues to
                                  this day, as the Corporations continue to cut the last of the last.
                                  It is their last ditch effort to cut the
                                  Few remaining Old Growth Douglas Fir trees.
                                  The Federal Government has, and continues to, lose millions of
                                  dollars every year in it's "Timber Sales" of the "last of the last"
                                  on "Federal Lands".
                                  "Federal" does Not mean "Protected". In fact it has actually always
                                  been the other way around. The Federal Government has always had,
                                  as it's number one objective, to "Get the Cut Out".
                                  The Fact of the matter is that The Timber Companies did their jobs
                                  very well.
                                  Nearly All the Big Trees are Gone. Many people that come to Oregon
                                  don't even notice. There are still Lots of Big Trees, but if you
                                  have never seen a "True Old Growth Forest", you literally don't know
                                  what is missing.
                                  The prices for the remaining Old Growth have skyrocketed,
                                  and, although not as high as it was a few years ago, still
                                  makes it very profitable for the Big companies to try
                                  to get Every Tree they can. Several Thousand dollars for a Single
                                  Tree, for some of the Really Big ones.
                                  Along with the Old Growth, much of the Habitat has also been
                                  destroyed.
                                  Western Oregon is truly a "Rain Forest", (I have ferns on my place
                                  that are Taller than I am) that once had as much biodiversity as
                                  any "Rainforest" in the World
                                  Most of that too, is gone.
                                  Much of the "Old Growth did not go into "Quality Construction",
                                  "Housing", or "Construction" of any kind.
                                  It was "Chipped" for Paper.
                                  Some of the timber companies have "Replanted" the
                                  areas, but those trees have proved to be not nearly
                                  the quality of the originals.
                                  They were developed to be fast growing, but many are disease
                                  prone, and Must be cut after as little as 50-60 years.
                                  The "Quality" of the lumber from a "Tree Farm" does not
                                  even come close to the 400 year old trees.
                                  Douglas fir "Marine Grade Plywood" has gone from "Very Good"
                                  to "Crap".

                                  It still takes 400 years to grow a 400-year-old Fir Tree.
                                  The genetics of the trees has also changed, and the New ones
                                  will not live that long.
                                  So, the only place there may be "Old Growth Habitat" again is
                                  where the little still remains.

                                  As much as "Big Timber" would have people believe,
                                  "Old Growth Douglas Fir Trees" are Not just "Another
                                  Crop like Corn". (And many of us know what has happened
                                  to even the corn crop).

                                  Sitka Spruce.
                                  Even worse. They Are Gone.
                                  Mostly during WW II. Many for Airplane Parts.

                                  Sorry for the "Rant". I think I pulled my own string.

                                  I am pretty close to it, but I can "See the forests for the trees".

                                  Pat Patteson
                                  Molalla, "Milltown" Oregon



                                  (Oh Boy! Did I miss anything, John?)
                                • jhkohnen@boat-links.com
                                  _Somebody_ sure pulled your string Pat! A lot of the replanted fir trees never even make it to 50-60 years, if they can get a couple of 2x4s out of them
                                  Message 16 of 23 , Nov 3, 2001
                                    _Somebody_ sure pulled your string Pat! <g>

                                    A lot of the replanted fir trees never even make it to 50-60 years, if they
                                    can get a couple of 2x4s out of them they cut 'em. :o( What do they call
                                    that when a corner of a board is rounded off because it's the outside of a
                                    tree? wain? Anyway, try finding a 2x4 in the #2 or better pile at the
                                    lumberyard without it. 100% of the "utility" 2x4s have that as one of the
                                    defects, usually two corners when they're in that pile.

                                    Some knowledgable folk think that some of the rain forests of the northwest
                                    are remnants of the last ice age that managed to survive only because they
                                    created their own cool, moist climate. Cut them down wholesale and they'll
                                    never be able to rejuvenate.

                                    Although there has been some enlightenment in recent years, for generations
                                    the only trees replanted were Douglas firs. Aside from the ill effects of
                                    monoculture plantations on the soil and habitat, it's also meant that
                                    useful woods like cedars are getting to be in short supply.

                                    Spruce? It was WW I when the army came in and mined all the good Sitka
                                    spruce in Oregon. Any reforestation was with Doug fir.

                                    Old growth Doug fir is a wondeful wood. It's really tragic how it's been
                                    squandered over the years. I've heard tell about prime fir being used for
                                    pallets in WW II. The story may be apocryphal, but it sounds likely given
                                    the way war can warp a country's mentality-- seems some procurement agent
                                    wanted to do his part for the war effort by providing the _very best_
                                    pallets he could, so he specified the highest grade of lumber for them,
                                    made him feel more patriotic no doubt... The there were all those wooden
                                    steamships and schooners built for WW I, and never used for the war effort
                                    or much of anything else. Most were abandoned or burned within a few years
                                    of the war's end.

                                    On Fri, 02 Nov 2001 22:43:58 -0000, Pat Pateson ranted:
                                    > ...
                                    > Unfortunately, Vertical Grain Old Growth Doug Fir,
                                    > is More Expensive today than Red or White Oak.
                                    >
                                    > The Reason for that is simple.
                                    > ...
                                    > Some of the timber companies have "Replanted" the
                                    > areas, but those trees have proved to be not nearly
                                    > the quality of the originals.
                                    > They were developed to be fast growing, but many are disease
                                    > prone, and Must be cut after as little as 50-60 years.
                                    > The "Quality" of the lumber from a "Tree Farm" does not
                                    > even come close to the 400 year old trees.
                                    > Douglas fir "Marine Grade Plywood" has gone from "Very Good"
                                    > to "Crap".
                                    > ...
                                    > Sitka Spruce.
                                    > Even worse. They Are Gone.
                                    > Mostly during WW II. Many for Airplane Parts.
                                    > ...
                                    > (Oh Boy! Did I miss anything, John?)

                                    --
                                    John <jkohnen@...>
                                    http://www.boat-links.com/
                                    One must have a heart of stone to read the death of Little Nell by
                                    Dickens without laughing. <Oscar Wilde>
                                  • thomas dalzell
                                    Speaking of WWII, think about all the wood that must have ended up in europe in the form of crating. Every heavy object, gun, bomb, etc... would have been
                                    Message 17 of 23 , Nov 4, 2001
                                      Speaking of WWII, think about all the wood that must
                                      have ended up in europe in the form of crating. Every
                                      heavy object, gun, bomb, etc... would have been crated
                                      up and sent over there.

                                      Even today heavier pallets can have the runners made
                                      of Oak. A friend of mine scored tons of this stuff
                                      from an neighbouring industrial site early in his
                                      cabinet carreer, that was '85. In the forties I bet
                                      they cut that stuff down at the drop of a hat.

                                      After all, they pulp first growth trees to publish
                                      books. For that mater I was going through upper NY
                                      state last summer, and got into a discusion of local
                                      lumbering practices. Seems they cut the local maple
                                      forests on private land for income. Best Use: pulp,
                                      and fuel for electricity generation. This really
                                      slayed me, because the cost of maple lumber localy has
                                      soared higher than cherry and oak.


                                      "Old growth Doug fir is a wondeful wood. It's really
                                      tragic how it's been
                                      squandered over the years. I've heard tell about prime
                                      fir being used for
                                      pallets in WW II. The story may be apocryphal, but it
                                      sounds likely given
                                      the way war can warp a country's mentality-- seems
                                      some procurement agent
                                      wanted to do his part for the war effort by providing
                                      the _very best_
                                      pallets he could, so he specified the highest grade of
                                      lumber for them,
                                      made him feel more patriotic no doubt... The there
                                      were all those wooden
                                      steamships and schooners built for WW I, and never
                                      used for the war effort
                                      or much of anything else. Most were abandoned or
                                      burned within a few years
                                      of the war's end."

                                      _______________________________________________________
                                      Build your own website for free and in minutes at http://ca.geocities.com
                                    • Charles Wilson
                                      Luke, I would love to see that but the link does not work for me. Charles If you keep heading south you will eventually reach civilisation ... From:
                                      Message 18 of 23 , Nov 5, 2001
                                        Luke,

                                        I would love to see that but the link does not work for me.

                                        Charles


                                        If you keep heading south you will eventually reach civilisation
                                        ----- Original Message -----
                                        From: <lukecurran@...>
                                        To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                                        Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 9:19 AM
                                        Subject: [bolger] Re: Block Parts?


                                        > If this link has been posted I've missed it;
                                        >
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > http://catalogue.com/bobpone/plywoodblocks.htm
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > Bolger rules!!!
                                        > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                                        > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
                                        > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
                                        > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
                                        01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                        > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                                        >
                                        > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                        >
                                        >
                                      • lukecurran@hotmail.com
                                        Sorry, I hope I get it right this time! http://catalog.com/bobpone/plywoodblocks.htm ... like ... Gloucester, MA, ... http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                        Message 19 of 23 , Nov 5, 2001
                                          Sorry, I hope I get it right this time!


                                          http://catalog.com/bobpone/plywoodblocks.htm


                                          --- In bolger@y..., "Charles Wilson" <wilson.c@b...> wrote:
                                          > Luke,
                                          >
                                          > I would love to see that but the link does not work for me.
                                          >
                                          > Charles
                                          >
                                          >
                                          > If you keep heading south you will eventually reach civilisation
                                          > ----- Original Message -----
                                          > From: <lukecurran@h...>
                                          > To: <bolger@y...>
                                          > Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 9:19 AM
                                          > Subject: [bolger] Re: Block Parts?
                                          >
                                          >
                                          > > If this link has been posted I've missed it;
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > http://catalogue.com/bobpone/plywoodblocks.htm
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > Bolger rules!!!
                                          > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                                          > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
                                          > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
                                          like
                                          > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
                                          Gloucester, MA,
                                          > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                          > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
                                          > >
                                          > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                                          http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                        • lukecurran@hotmail.com
                                          Charles You might be interested in the (non-bolger) page on tradional boats I found the link - lots of tips. http://catalog.com/bobpone/shopbuilding.htm
                                          Message 20 of 23 , Nov 5, 2001
                                            Charles

                                            You might be interested in the (non-bolger) page on tradional boats I
                                            found the link - lots of tips.


                                            http://catalog.com/bobpone/shopbuilding.htm



                                            --- In bolger@y..., "Charles Wilson" <wilson.c@b...> wrote:
                                            > Luke,
                                            >
                                            > I would love to see that but the link does not work for me.
                                            >
                                            > Charles
                                            >
                                            >
                                          • Charles Wilson
                                            Luke, Thanks a lot the link now works and I kinda like the idea. Will also look at the rest as you suggest. Charles If you keep heading south you will
                                            Message 21 of 23 , Nov 5, 2001
                                              Luke,

                                              Thanks a lot the link now works and I kinda like the idea.

                                              Will also look at the rest as you suggest.

                                              Charles


                                              If you keep heading south you will eventually reach civilisation
                                              ----- Original Message -----
                                              From: <lukecurran@...>
                                              To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                                              Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 2:42 PM
                                              Subject: [bolger] Re: Block Parts?


                                              > Charles
                                              >
                                              > You might be interested in the (non-bolger) page on tradional boats I
                                              > found the link - lots of tips.
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > http://catalog.com/bobpone/shopbuilding.htm
                                              >
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > --- In bolger@y..., "Charles Wilson" <wilson.c@b...> wrote:
                                              > > Luke,
                                              > >
                                              > > I would love to see that but the link does not work for me.
                                              > >
                                              > > Charles
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              >
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > Bolger rules!!!
                                              > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                                              > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
                                              > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
                                              > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
                                              01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                              > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                                              >
                                              > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                              >
                                              >
                                            • Harry James
                                              Great site, it was exactly what I was looking for. Home made blocks, by a guy who thinks production and good quality, lets get it built and get on the water.
                                              Message 22 of 23 , Nov 5, 2001
                                                Great site, it was exactly what I was looking for. Home made blocks, by a guy who thinks production
                                                and good quality, lets get it built and get on the water. I am interested in building blocks rather
                                                than buying because of the incredible expense of $$Marine$$ hardware. I didn't want to handcraft each
                                                one though. Thanks to this guys site and Richard's, recommendation of mcmaster site I have enough to
                                                come up with something on my own for mass production.

                                                HJ

                                                lukecurran@... wrote:

                                                > If this link has been posted I've missed it;
                                                >
                                                > http://catalogue.com/bobpone/plywoodblocks.htm
                                                >
                                              • Charles Wilson
                                                Thanks Luke, now I think I may attempt to build some blocks instead of hibernating. Blocks, hibernation? If I speak to you again before the spring I will be
                                                Message 23 of 23 , Nov 5, 2001
                                                  Thanks Luke, now I think I may attempt to build some blocks instead of
                                                  hibernating. Blocks, hibernation?
                                                  If I speak to you again before the spring I will be making blocks,
                                                  otherwise.................................

                                                  Charlessssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss


                                                  If you keep heading south you will eventually reach civilisation
                                                  ----- Original Message -----
                                                  From: <lukecurran@...>
                                                  To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                                                  Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 2:05 PM
                                                  Subject: [bolger] Re: Block Parts?


                                                  > Sorry, I hope I get it right this time!
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > http://catalog.com/bobpone/plywoodblocks.htm
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > --- In bolger@y..., "Charles Wilson" <wilson.c@b...> wrote:
                                                  > > Luke,
                                                  > >
                                                  > > I would love to see that but the link does not work for me.
                                                  > >
                                                  > > Charles
                                                  > >
                                                  > >
                                                  > > If you keep heading south you will eventually reach civilisation
                                                  > > ----- Original Message -----
                                                  > > From: <lukecurran@h...>
                                                  > > To: <bolger@y...>
                                                  > > Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 9:19 AM
                                                  > > Subject: [bolger] Re: Block Parts?
                                                  > >
                                                  > >
                                                  > > > If this link has been posted I've missed it;
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > http://catalogue.com/bobpone/plywoodblocks.htm
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Bolger rules!!!
                                                  > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                                                  > > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
                                                  > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
                                                  > like
                                                  > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
                                                  > Gloucester, MA,
                                                  > > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                                  > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                                                  > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > Bolger rules!!!
                                                  > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                                                  > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
                                                  > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
                                                  > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
                                                  01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                                  > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                                                  >
                                                  > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                                  >
                                                  >
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