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Re: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides

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  • James Fuller
    Epoxy will absolutely stick to epoxy. Non issue. What you have to do is clean the areas you intend to glue to. You can do this with water and scotchbrite
    Message 1 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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      Epoxy will absolutely stick to epoxy. Non issue.
      What you have to do is clean the areas you intend to
      glue to. You can do this with water and scotchbrite
      pads. Then sand the glaze off the area. Then glue away.

      Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
      with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
      Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
      pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
      If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
      this method might be a little hard to do.

      James Fuller

      ----- Original Message -----
      From: <richard@...>
      To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 11:19 AM
      Subject: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides


      > Guess we are back to the old argument of whether epoxy will stick to
      > previous coats of epoxy or not... Have to do some testing before I
      > buy stuff I guess.
      >
      >
      > --- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
      > >
      > > Glassing before assembly is easier, but some authorities (Reuel
      > Parker, for
      > > one) say that you should leave joining surfaces clean, or sand down
      > to the
      > > bare wood before glueing/taping.
      > >
      > > Jamie Orr
      > >
      > > -----Original Message-----
      > > From: richard@s... [mailto:richard@s...]
      > > Sent: August 1, 2001 7:17 AM
      > > To: bolger@y...
      > > Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides
      > >
      > >
      > > I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
      > > with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent
      > checking.
      > >
      > > I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on
      > the
      > > boat. Anyone see any value in this?
      > >
      > > Pros:
      > > 1) No checking
      > > 2) No rot
      > > 3) epoxy makes good primer
      > > 4) wood sealed for outside building
      > >
      > > cons:
      > > 1) cost
      > > 2) adds weight
      > > 3) adds work
      > >
      > > Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Bolger rules!!!
      > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
      > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
      > like
      > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
      > MA,
      > > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
      > >
      > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
      > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      >
      >
      >
      > Bolger rules!!!
      > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
      > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
      > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
      01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      >
      > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      >
      >
      >
    • wmrpage@aol.com
      In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time, ... Mr. Fuller: Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique sounds like it could be a
      Message 2 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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        In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
        james@... writes:


        > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
        > with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
        > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
        > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
        > If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
        > this method might be a little hard to do.
        >
        > James Fuller
        >
        >

        Mr. Fuller:

        Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique sounds like
        it could be a real labor saver for "Instant Boats"-type hard-chined plywood
        construction. What does this do? Create a rough surface? Inhibit curing?
        Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window of time when the surfaces
        so treated can be successfully bonded before requiring the "scour, rinse,
        sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric outlet and ask for "polyester
        dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion what I'm asking for? Would
        I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you figure this out? I'm really,
        really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds like a winner.

        Ciao for Niao,
        Bill in MN


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Lincoln Ross
        According to Platt Monfort, you can use dacron (i.e. polyester) aircraft fabric for this also. Might be a little easier to peel up as I think it s heavier.
        Message 3 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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          According to Platt Monfort, you can use dacron (i.e. polyester)
          aircraft fabric for this also. Might be a little easier to
          peel up as I think it's heavier. Expensive, official material is peel
          ply, which homebuilders of full size airplanes use on layups they want
          to glue to later.

          I don't think there's a time limit on the peel ply technique, as the
          point is to have a mechanical bond. I think it would have rained
          VariEzes if it didn't work.

          Of course if you can get to it in a day or so, you can get a chemical
          bond without sanding, according to Raka.
          --- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
          > In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
          > james@p... writes:
          >
          >
          > > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
          > > with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
          > > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
          > > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
          > > If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
          > > this method might be a little hard to do.
          > >
          > > James Fuller
          > >
          > >
          >
          > Mr. Fuller:
          >
          > Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique
          sounds like
          > it could be a real labor saver for "Instant Boats"-type hard-chined
          plywood
          > construction. What does this do? Create a rough surface? Inhibit
          curing?
          > Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window of time when the
          surfaces
          > so treated can be successfully bonded before requiring the "scour,
          rinse,
          > sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric outlet and ask for
          "polyester
          > dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion what I'm asking
          for? Would
          > I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you figure this out? I'm
          really,
          > really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds like a winner.
          >
          > Ciao for Niao,
          > Bill in MN
          >
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • James Fuller
          See Lincoln Ross and Vince Chew s answers. They said it better than I could. You might contact Aircraft Spruce and get their catalog. There is a good
          Message 4 of 14 , Aug 2, 2001
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            See Lincoln Ross and Vince Chew's answers. They said
            it better than I could. You might contact Aircraft Spruce
            and get their catalog. There is a good explanation there on the use of peel
            ply. Also, most of the epoxy mfgrs
            that we buy from in the home building boat hobby offer
            free instructions on the use of their produce which would
            include the use of polyester fabric/peel ply.

            James

            ----- Original Message -----
            From: <wmrpage@...>
            To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 4:38 PM
            Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides


            > In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
            > james@... writes:
            >
            >
            > > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
            > > with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
            > > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
            > > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
            > > If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
            > > this method might be a little hard to do.
            > >
            > > James Fuller
            > >
            > >
            >
            > Mr. Fuller:
            >
            > Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique sounds
            like
            > it could be a real labor saver for "Instant Boats"-type hard-chined
            plywood
            > construction. What does this do? Create a rough surface? Inhibit curing?
            > Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window of time when the
            surfaces
            > so treated can be successfully bonded before requiring the "scour, rinse,
            > sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric outlet and ask for "polyester
            > dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion what I'm asking for?
            Would
            > I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you figure this out? I'm
            really,
            > really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds like a winner.
            >
            > Ciao for Niao,
            > Bill in MN
            >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
            >
            >
            > Bolger rules!!!
            > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
            > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
            > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
            > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
            01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
            > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
            >
            > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            >
            >
            >
          • Steve Gillon
            I built a Long-EZ, and used peel ply extensively. It works wonders! Aircraft Spruce sells rolls of the stuff in 1 , 2 3 4 , et cetera rolls, it has pinked
            Message 5 of 14 , Aug 9, 2001
            • 0 Attachment
              I built a Long-EZ, and used peel ply extensively. It
              works wonders! Aircraft Spruce sells rolls of the
              stuff in 1", 2" 3" 4", et cetera rolls, it has pinked
              edges, so it won't unravel.

              The idea is to let the wax and other stuff in the
              epoxy float through the peel ply, to the surface.
              When you peel the tape off, it brings with it the
              epoxy that is above it, containing all the impurities
              that make epoxy refuse to stick to itself. The
              resulting surface has a cloth-like texture. You can
              sand it down smooth, easily. When you put more epoxy,
              or fiberglass over it, it disappears. If you are
              careful and lay your peel ply down straight, it
              actually looks good, after you peel the peel ply off,
              like a matte border.


              --- Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...> wrote:
              > According to Platt Monfort, you can use dacron (i.e.
              > polyester)
              > aircraft fabric for this also. Might be a little
              > easier to
              > peel up as I think it's heavier. Expensive, official
              > material is peel
              > ply, which homebuilders of full size airplanes use
              > on layups they want
              > to glue to later.
              >
              > I don't think there's a time limit on the peel ply
              > technique, as the
              > point is to have a mechanical bond. I think it would
              > have rained
              > VariEzes if it didn't work.
              >
              > Of course if you can get to it in a day or so, you
              > can get a chemical
              > bond without sanding, according to Raka.
              > --- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
              > > In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central
              > Daylight Time,
              > > james@p... writes:
              > >
              > >
              > > > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to
              > glue to
              > > > with polyester dress lining as you cover with
              > glass cloth.
              > > > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass
              > cures
              > > > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding
              > is required.
              > > > If you are covering full sheets before cutting
              > out pieces
              > > > this method might be a little hard to do.
              > > >
              > > > James Fuller
              > > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > Mr. Fuller:
              > >
              > > Could you elaborate a little bit on this?
              > This technique
              > sounds like
              > > it could be a real labor saver for "Instant
              > Boats"-type hard-chined
              > plywood
              > > construction. What does this do? Create a rough
              > surface? Inhibit
              > curing?
              > > Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window
              > of time when the
              > surfaces
              > > so treated can be successfully bonded before
              > requiring the "scour,
              > rinse,
              > > sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric
              > outlet and ask for
              > "polyester
              > > dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion
              > what I'm asking
              > for? Would
              > > I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you
              > figure this out? I'm
              > really,
              > > really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds
              > like a winner.
              > >
              > > Ciao for Niao,
              > > Bill in MN
              > >
              > >
              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
              > removed]
              >
              >


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