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RE: [bolger] Glassing both sides

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  • Orr, Jamie
    Yes, good value, I think. I glassed over fir plywood to avoid checking. I glassed the outside hull, and wherever the sun could reach it inside, but didn t
    Message 1 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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      Yes, good value, I think. I glassed over fir plywood to avoid checking. I
      glassed the outside hull, and wherever the sun could reach it inside, but
      didn't glass the cockpit bottom since it is covered by floorboards -- I
      epoxy coated and painted that. If I had it to do over, I would glass down
      there too,so that I could leave rainwater standing in it without worrying.
      As it is, I feel obliged to remove it as soon as I can when it rains --
      although there's no sign of problems to date.

      I used 6 ounce cloth almost everywhere. I did have some four ounce, but
      found it harder to wet out thoroughly with its smaller weave, so went back
      to 6 ounce for convenience -- it gives more protection anyway.

      Glassing before assembly is easier, but some authorities (Reuel Parker, for
      one) say that you should leave joining surfaces clean, or sand down to the
      bare wood before glueing/taping.

      Jamie Orr

      -----Original Message-----
      From: richard@... [mailto:richard@...]
      Sent: August 1, 2001 7:17 AM
      To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides


      I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
      with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent checking.

      I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on the
      boat. Anyone see any value in this?

      Pros:
      1) No checking
      2) No rot
      3) epoxy makes good primer
      4) wood sealed for outside building

      cons:
      1) cost
      2) adds weight
      3) adds work

      Thought? Anyone? Anyone?



      Bolger rules!!!
      - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
      - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
      - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
      01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    • bruce_hector@hotmail.com
      Ive never glassed before assembly. Doesn t this make bending the plywood to the curves much more difficult. Bruce
      Message 2 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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        Ive never glassed before assembly. Doesn't this make bending the
        plywood to the curves much more difficult. Bruce
      • Jeff Blunck
        It may bend harder to some degree but unless it s some radical bending, it s easy to work a tiny bit harder in assembly and have the ease and convenience of
        Message 3 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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          It may bend harder to some degree but unless it's some radical bending, it's
          easy to work a tiny bit harder in assembly and have the ease and convenience
          of glassing on a flat surface at a decent height. You'd never do it any
          other way once you've tried it.

          Jeff

          ----- Original Message -----
          From: <bruce_hector@...>
          To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 10:48 AM
          Subject: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides


          > Ive never glassed before assembly. Doesn't this make bending the
          > plywood to the curves much more difficult. Bruce
          >
          >
          >
          > Bolger rules!!!
          > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
          > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
          > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
          > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
          01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
          > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
          >
          > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
          >
          >
        • richard@spellingbusiness.com
          Actualy, I was thinking of glassing only the *inside* of the curves pieces before assembly. It wouldn t make it harder to bend unless you did the *outside* of
          Message 4 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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            Actualy, I was thinking of glassing only the *inside* of the curves
            pieces before assembly. It wouldn't make it harder to bend unless you
            did the *outside* of the curve.

            --- In bolger@y..., bruce_hector@h... wrote:
            > Ive never glassed before assembly. Doesn't this make bending the
            > plywood to the curves much more difficult. Bruce
          • richard@spellingbusiness.com
            Guess we are back to the old argument of whether epoxy will stick to previous coats of epoxy or not... Have to do some testing before I buy stuff I guess. ...
            Message 5 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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              Guess we are back to the old argument of whether epoxy will stick to
              previous coats of epoxy or not... Have to do some testing before I
              buy stuff I guess.


              --- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
              >
              > Glassing before assembly is easier, but some authorities (Reuel
              Parker, for
              > one) say that you should leave joining surfaces clean, or sand down
              to the
              > bare wood before glueing/taping.
              >
              > Jamie Orr
              >
              > -----Original Message-----
              > From: richard@s... [mailto:richard@s...]
              > Sent: August 1, 2001 7:17 AM
              > To: bolger@y...
              > Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides
              >
              >
              > I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
              > with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent
              checking.
              >
              > I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on
              the
              > boat. Anyone see any value in this?
              >
              > Pros:
              > 1) No checking
              > 2) No rot
              > 3) epoxy makes good primer
              > 4) wood sealed for outside building
              >
              > cons:
              > 1) cost
              > 2) adds weight
              > 3) adds work
              >
              > Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
              >
              >
              >
              > Bolger rules!!!
              > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
              > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
              > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
              like
              > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
              MA,
              > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
              > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
              >
              > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
              http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            • Lincoln Ross
              I ve used 3/4 oz, or maybe it was 1 oz over all of my Nymph and some of my current project. This is a pain to keep wrinkles out of, but much lighter if you
              Message 6 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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                I've used 3/4 oz, or maybe it was 1 oz over all of my Nymph and some
                of my current project. This is a pain to keep wrinkles out of, but
                much lighter if you don't need the strength, and cheap. THe weight
                isn't bad if you don't use too much epoxy, people use this weight
                on model planes. It's MUCH easier to do a sheet on sawhorses than to
                do it after the boat is assembled. If you were worried about bonding,
                I suppose you could cut out the pieces, mask the edges about 2" with
                tape, and then peel it back after the epoxy sets. At this weight you
                can just rip it back without a whole lot of trouble, tho maybe some
                more robust tape than masking tape would ensure the very edge of the
                tape peeled up. DOing the sheets flat would save you a LOT of sanding
                and scraping drips! If you're really careful you won't need to sand
                much at all. Try to cut back any overlaps, scrape bumps, etc. maybe 1
                day after putting the epoxy on, then wait as long as you can before
                sanding so it doesn't turn into goo and clog the paper when the
                friction heats it up.

                The necessity of all this depends on how you keep your boat, what you
                paint it with, and what kind of plywood it is. I have a luan boat that
                was painted with latex and lived upside down for two or three years
                outside, in a temperate climate with snow, rain, and sun. Looks fine.
                GUess we lucked out on the quality of that wood. I have a daggerboard
                of Southern Yellow Pine that I made and painted with latex that looked
                awful right away, as soon as I used it. I had a varnished luan boat
                that checked like crazy.

                IT's true that putting on this glass is a fair amount of work. I think
                it would depend a lot on how fancy the boat was. If you were using 3/8
                or thicker ply, I'd consider MDO instead, though I don't have any
                experience with this.

                Epoxy doesn't make a good primer for everything, but I used latex
                primer which stuck to it tenaciously. Maybe if my top coat was latex I
                wouldn't have needed a primer, but I wanted to use silver oil based
                paint.

                I don't think this would keep away rot if you allowed any damage.

                --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
                > I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
                > with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent
                checking.
                >
                > I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on
                the
                > boat. Anyone see any value in this?
                >
                > Pros:
                > 1) No checking
                > 2) No rot
                > 3) epoxy makes good primer
                > 4) wood sealed for outside building
                >
                > cons:
                > 1) cost
                > 2) adds weight
                > 3) adds work
                >
                > Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
              • Jeff Blunck
                Epoxy will adhere to old Epoxy if you rough it up really well with 100 grit sand paper. Using a palm sander, I start with 60 grit then finish with 100 grit
                Message 7 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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                  Epoxy will adhere to old Epoxy if you rough it up really well with 100 grit
                  sand paper. Using a palm sander, I start with 60 grit then finish with 100
                  grit until the whole surface is scuffed well. Only took me about 15 minutes
                  to prep 32' of chine log area along the bottom of my Tennessee.

                  This is a mechanical bond and not as good as soaking into the wood but I
                  think it's still stronger than the plywood anyway. If your still nervous
                  about it, use another 1" wider tape at the joints to compensate.

                  Jeff

                  ----- Original Message -----
                  From: <richard@...>
                  To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                  Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 12:19 PM
                  Subject: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides


                  > Guess we are back to the old argument of whether epoxy will stick to
                  > previous coats of epoxy or not... Have to do some testing before I
                  > buy stuff I guess.
                  >
                  >
                  > --- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > Glassing before assembly is easier, but some authorities (Reuel
                  > Parker, for
                  > > one) say that you should leave joining surfaces clean, or sand down
                  > to the
                  > > bare wood before glueing/taping.
                  > >
                  > > Jamie Orr
                  > >
                  > > -----Original Message-----
                  > > From: richard@s... [mailto:richard@s...]
                  > > Sent: August 1, 2001 7:17 AM
                  > > To: bolger@y...
                  > > Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
                  > > with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent
                  > checking.
                  > >
                  > > I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on
                  > the
                  > > boat. Anyone see any value in this?
                  > >
                  > > Pros:
                  > > 1) No checking
                  > > 2) No rot
                  > > 3) epoxy makes good primer
                  > > 4) wood sealed for outside building
                  > >
                  > > cons:
                  > > 1) cost
                  > > 2) adds weight
                  > > 3) adds work
                  > >
                  > > Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > Bolger rules!!!
                  > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                  > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
                  > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
                  > like
                  > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
                  > MA,
                  > > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                  > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
                  > >
                  > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                  > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Bolger rules!!!
                  > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                  > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
                  > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
                  > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
                  01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                  > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                  >
                  > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                  >
                  >
                • James Fuller
                  Epoxy will absolutely stick to epoxy. Non issue. What you have to do is clean the areas you intend to glue to. You can do this with water and scotchbrite
                  Message 8 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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                    Epoxy will absolutely stick to epoxy. Non issue.
                    What you have to do is clean the areas you intend to
                    glue to. You can do this with water and scotchbrite
                    pads. Then sand the glaze off the area. Then glue away.

                    Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
                    with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
                    Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
                    pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
                    If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
                    this method might be a little hard to do.

                    James Fuller

                    ----- Original Message -----
                    From: <richard@...>
                    To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                    Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 11:19 AM
                    Subject: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides


                    > Guess we are back to the old argument of whether epoxy will stick to
                    > previous coats of epoxy or not... Have to do some testing before I
                    > buy stuff I guess.
                    >
                    >
                    > --- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > Glassing before assembly is easier, but some authorities (Reuel
                    > Parker, for
                    > > one) say that you should leave joining surfaces clean, or sand down
                    > to the
                    > > bare wood before glueing/taping.
                    > >
                    > > Jamie Orr
                    > >
                    > > -----Original Message-----
                    > > From: richard@s... [mailto:richard@s...]
                    > > Sent: August 1, 2001 7:17 AM
                    > > To: bolger@y...
                    > > Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
                    > > with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent
                    > checking.
                    > >
                    > > I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on
                    > the
                    > > boat. Anyone see any value in this?
                    > >
                    > > Pros:
                    > > 1) No checking
                    > > 2) No rot
                    > > 3) epoxy makes good primer
                    > > 4) wood sealed for outside building
                    > >
                    > > cons:
                    > > 1) cost
                    > > 2) adds weight
                    > > 3) adds work
                    > >
                    > > Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > Bolger rules!!!
                    > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                    > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
                    > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
                    > like
                    > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
                    > MA,
                    > > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                    > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
                    > >
                    > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                    > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > Bolger rules!!!
                    > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                    > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
                    > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
                    > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
                    01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                    > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                    >
                    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                    >
                    >
                    >
                  • wmrpage@aol.com
                    In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time, ... Mr. Fuller: Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique sounds like it could be a
                    Message 9 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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                      In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
                      james@... writes:


                      > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
                      > with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
                      > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
                      > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
                      > If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
                      > this method might be a little hard to do.
                      >
                      > James Fuller
                      >
                      >

                      Mr. Fuller:

                      Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique sounds like
                      it could be a real labor saver for "Instant Boats"-type hard-chined plywood
                      construction. What does this do? Create a rough surface? Inhibit curing?
                      Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window of time when the surfaces
                      so treated can be successfully bonded before requiring the "scour, rinse,
                      sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric outlet and ask for "polyester
                      dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion what I'm asking for? Would
                      I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you figure this out? I'm really,
                      really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds like a winner.

                      Ciao for Niao,
                      Bill in MN


                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • Lincoln Ross
                      According to Platt Monfort, you can use dacron (i.e. polyester) aircraft fabric for this also. Might be a little easier to peel up as I think it s heavier.
                      Message 10 of 14 , Aug 1, 2001
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                        According to Platt Monfort, you can use dacron (i.e. polyester)
                        aircraft fabric for this also. Might be a little easier to
                        peel up as I think it's heavier. Expensive, official material is peel
                        ply, which homebuilders of full size airplanes use on layups they want
                        to glue to later.

                        I don't think there's a time limit on the peel ply technique, as the
                        point is to have a mechanical bond. I think it would have rained
                        VariEzes if it didn't work.

                        Of course if you can get to it in a day or so, you can get a chemical
                        bond without sanding, according to Raka.
                        --- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
                        > In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
                        > james@p... writes:
                        >
                        >
                        > > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
                        > > with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
                        > > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
                        > > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
                        > > If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
                        > > this method might be a little hard to do.
                        > >
                        > > James Fuller
                        > >
                        > >
                        >
                        > Mr. Fuller:
                        >
                        > Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique
                        sounds like
                        > it could be a real labor saver for "Instant Boats"-type hard-chined
                        plywood
                        > construction. What does this do? Create a rough surface? Inhibit
                        curing?
                        > Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window of time when the
                        surfaces
                        > so treated can be successfully bonded before requiring the "scour,
                        rinse,
                        > sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric outlet and ask for
                        "polyester
                        > dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion what I'm asking
                        for? Would
                        > I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you figure this out? I'm
                        really,
                        > really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds like a winner.
                        >
                        > Ciao for Niao,
                        > Bill in MN
                        >
                        >
                        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • James Fuller
                        See Lincoln Ross and Vince Chew s answers. They said it better than I could. You might contact Aircraft Spruce and get their catalog. There is a good
                        Message 11 of 14 , Aug 2, 2001
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                          See Lincoln Ross and Vince Chew's answers. They said
                          it better than I could. You might contact Aircraft Spruce
                          and get their catalog. There is a good explanation there on the use of peel
                          ply. Also, most of the epoxy mfgrs
                          that we buy from in the home building boat hobby offer
                          free instructions on the use of their produce which would
                          include the use of polyester fabric/peel ply.

                          James

                          ----- Original Message -----
                          From: <wmrpage@...>
                          To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                          Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 4:38 PM
                          Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides


                          > In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
                          > james@... writes:
                          >
                          >
                          > > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
                          > > with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
                          > > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
                          > > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
                          > > If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
                          > > this method might be a little hard to do.
                          > >
                          > > James Fuller
                          > >
                          > >
                          >
                          > Mr. Fuller:
                          >
                          > Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique sounds
                          like
                          > it could be a real labor saver for "Instant Boats"-type hard-chined
                          plywood
                          > construction. What does this do? Create a rough surface? Inhibit curing?
                          > Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window of time when the
                          surfaces
                          > so treated can be successfully bonded before requiring the "scour, rinse,
                          > sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric outlet and ask for "polyester
                          > dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion what I'm asking for?
                          Would
                          > I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you figure this out? I'm
                          really,
                          > really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds like a winner.
                          >
                          > Ciao for Niao,
                          > Bill in MN
                          >
                          >
                          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Bolger rules!!!
                          > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                          > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
                          > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
                          > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
                          01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                          > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                          >
                          > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                          >
                          >
                          >
                        • Steve Gillon
                          I built a Long-EZ, and used peel ply extensively. It works wonders! Aircraft Spruce sells rolls of the stuff in 1 , 2 3 4 , et cetera rolls, it has pinked
                          Message 12 of 14 , Aug 9, 2001
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                            I built a Long-EZ, and used peel ply extensively. It
                            works wonders! Aircraft Spruce sells rolls of the
                            stuff in 1", 2" 3" 4", et cetera rolls, it has pinked
                            edges, so it won't unravel.

                            The idea is to let the wax and other stuff in the
                            epoxy float through the peel ply, to the surface.
                            When you peel the tape off, it brings with it the
                            epoxy that is above it, containing all the impurities
                            that make epoxy refuse to stick to itself. The
                            resulting surface has a cloth-like texture. You can
                            sand it down smooth, easily. When you put more epoxy,
                            or fiberglass over it, it disappears. If you are
                            careful and lay your peel ply down straight, it
                            actually looks good, after you peel the peel ply off,
                            like a matte border.


                            --- Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...> wrote:
                            > According to Platt Monfort, you can use dacron (i.e.
                            > polyester)
                            > aircraft fabric for this also. Might be a little
                            > easier to
                            > peel up as I think it's heavier. Expensive, official
                            > material is peel
                            > ply, which homebuilders of full size airplanes use
                            > on layups they want
                            > to glue to later.
                            >
                            > I don't think there's a time limit on the peel ply
                            > technique, as the
                            > point is to have a mechanical bond. I think it would
                            > have rained
                            > VariEzes if it didn't work.
                            >
                            > Of course if you can get to it in a day or so, you
                            > can get a chemical
                            > bond without sanding, according to Raka.
                            > --- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
                            > > In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central
                            > Daylight Time,
                            > > james@p... writes:
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to
                            > glue to
                            > > > with polyester dress lining as you cover with
                            > glass cloth.
                            > > > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass
                            > cures
                            > > > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding
                            > is required.
                            > > > If you are covering full sheets before cutting
                            > out pieces
                            > > > this method might be a little hard to do.
                            > > >
                            > > > James Fuller
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > >
                            > > Mr. Fuller:
                            > >
                            > > Could you elaborate a little bit on this?
                            > This technique
                            > sounds like
                            > > it could be a real labor saver for "Instant
                            > Boats"-type hard-chined
                            > plywood
                            > > construction. What does this do? Create a rough
                            > surface? Inhibit
                            > curing?
                            > > Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window
                            > of time when the
                            > surfaces
                            > > so treated can be successfully bonded before
                            > requiring the "scour,
                            > rinse,
                            > > sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric
                            > outlet and ask for
                            > "polyester
                            > > dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion
                            > what I'm asking
                            > for? Would
                            > > I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you
                            > figure this out? I'm
                            > really,
                            > > really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds
                            > like a winner.
                            > >
                            > > Ciao for Niao,
                            > > Bill in MN
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
                            > removed]
                            >
                            >


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