Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?

Expand Messages
  • StepHydro@aol.com
    In a message dated 04/30/2001 12:
    Message 1 of 27 , Apr 30, 2001
    • 0 Attachment
      In a message dated 04/30/2001 12:<BR33:<BR01 PM
      Eastern Daylight, rrobar@... writes:
      > This second coat is then sanded (and sanded, and
      > sanded...).> Is there a better way to get a "paintable" surface?
      >
      Randy,

      To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible sanding battens.
      Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long, width is to fit
      a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
      suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and resin, maybe? Be
      sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll sand it all
      away each time :-)

      Cheers/Carron
    • pongo19050@yahoo.com
      I have used something with the consistence of Bondo (alright, I ll admit it - I ve used Bondo) put on with a notched trowel of the sort one uses to put down
      Message 2 of 27 , Apr 30, 2001
      • 0 Attachment
        I have used something with the consistence of Bondo (alright, I'll
        admit it - I've used Bondo) put on with a notched trowel of the sort
        one uses to put down adhesive for a tile floor. I then sand off most
        of the notches and put down more fairing compound, this time with a
        smooth trowel. One more light sanding seems to fair things nicely.

        I saw this trick in one of the System Three manuals - I just
        committed the apostacy of using it with Bondo.

        Regards

        Andy Farquhar
      • Chuck Leinweber
        Don s method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don t. I go for work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the weave, then Random
        Message 3 of 27 , Apr 30, 2001
        • 0 Attachment
          Don's method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don't. I go for
          work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the weave, then
          Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet when you show
          it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.

          Chuck

          Subject: Re: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?

          Randy,

          To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible sanding battens.
          Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long, width is to fit
          a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
          suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and resin, maybe? Be
          sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll sand it all
          away each time :-)

          Cheers/Carron
        • StepHydro@aol.com
          In a message dated 04/30/2001 1: I saw this trick in one of the System Three manuals - I just
          Message 4 of 27 , Apr 30, 2001
          • 0 Attachment
            In a message dated 04/30/2001 1:<BR27:<BR43 PM
            Eastern Daylight , pongo19050@... writes:> I saw this trick in one of
            the System Three manuals - I just
            > committed the apostacy of using it with Bondo.


            Works fine, it is just heavy and hard tosand compred to a lot of other
            fairing compounds.

            And, as Chuck mentioned, this isn't for June Bug, et. al., but for "gold
            platers" :-)

            Carron
          • djost@ma.ultranet.com
            Randy, I recommend getting an old paint scraper and rounding off the edge. After your first coat of epoxy kicks off and the glass cannot be pushed around,
            Message 5 of 27 , Apr 30, 2001
            • 0 Attachment
              Randy,
              I recommend getting an old paint scraper and rounding off the
              edge. After your first coat of epoxy "kicks off" and the glass cannot
              be pushed around, run the scraper over the weave. That will flatten
              it just enough to make your second coat more effective.

              I got this tip from one of the epoxy web sites.
              system 3?

              david jost
              "back to the keel"


              > Is there a better way to get a "paintable" surface?
              >
              > Thanks,
              > randy
            • pvanderw@optonline.net
              There has been a lot of discussion on the message list at www.bateau.com about getting a smooth finish. Jacques Mertens uses a hi-build primer, rather than a
              Message 6 of 27 , Apr 30, 2001
              • 0 Attachment
                There has been a lot of discussion on the message list at
                www.bateau.com about getting a smooth finish. Jacques Mertens uses a
                hi-build primer, rather than a lot of epoxy filler.

                Peter
              • ellengaest@boatbuilding.com
                Hi Randy, Not too sure what you re after; a smooth fiberglass surface or a paintable surface .If paintable ,then I would stop where you are and begin with
                Message 7 of 27 , Apr 30, 2001
                • 0 Attachment
                  Hi Randy,
                  Not too sure what you're after;"a smooth fiberglass surface" or "a
                  paintable surface".If "paintable",then I would stop where you are and
                  begin with the paint à la workboat finish.However,if it is the smooth
                  fiberglass look you are seeking then I would proceed as follows:
                  Finish sanding the second coat of epoxy.
                  Get hold of Interlux 401/402(if I recall correctly!) Barrier
                  coat.This is a two part product that will mix to the consistency of
                  very thick paint.Using a small(4")roller,apply this barrier coat like
                  paint.Once it has dried,use a sanding board and a strong light source
                  to gauge your progress.The surface will at first appear with an orange
                  peel texture.Using the light source just ahead of where you are
                  sanding,sand until the little craters dissappear.You will be able to
                  see this with the light and the surface will resemble a mirror.You
                  will also be able to spot any waves,dips or hollows that may need
                  another coat or two of the barrier coat.
                  This stuff sands very easily but gives off very toxic vapours
                  while drying,so work with lots of ventilation.Once you get used to
                  working with the light just ahead of where you are sanding,you might
                  become obsessed with getting that"glass-like"finish everywhere.It is
                  addictive!!!!
                  Afterwards,the surface should be primed according to your paint of
                  choice.Use those foam brushes or spray your paint.The results will do
                  justice to all your building labours.
                  So that is my .02$ worth and is only based on how I did my
                  MICRO.Hope to see pictures soon of the finished product!!Good Luck!!

                  Sincerely,
                  Peter Lenihan,on the shores of the St.Lawrence..................


                  --- In bolger@y..., rrobar@s... wrote:
                  > Hi Gang,
                  >
                  > What's the easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface (without
                  > vacuum-bagging)? Micro is now 3-d and we're starting to cover with
                  > 4oz cloth. Currently, we're laying the cloth, rolling on the epoxy,
                  > and then when that's cured, spreading more epoxy to completely fill
                  > the cloth weave. This second coat is then sanded (and sanded, and
                  > sanded...).
                  >
                  > Is there a better way to get a "paintable" surface?
                  >
                  > Thanks,
                  > randy
                • Harry W. James
                  Now you know the dark side of fiberglass and epoxy. HJ
                  Message 8 of 27 , Apr 30, 2001
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Now you know the dark side of fiberglass and epoxy.

                    HJ

                    rrobar@... wrote:
                    >
                    > Hi Gang,
                    >
                    > What's the easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface (without
                    > vacuum-bagging)? Micro is now 3-d and we're starting to cover with
                    > 4oz cloth. Currently, we're laying the cloth, rolling on the epoxy,
                    > and then when that's cured, spreading more epoxy to completely fill
                    > the cloth weave. This second coat is then sanded (and sanded, and
                    > sanded...).
                    >
                    > Is there a better way to get a "paintable" surface?
                    >
                    > Thanks,
                    > randy
                    >
                    > Bolger rules!!!
                    > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
                    > - no flogging dead horses
                    > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
                    > - stay on topic and punctuate
                    > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
                    > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                    >
                    >
                    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                  • Jim Chamberlin RCSIS
                    I second Chuck s suggestion, but I have also used a belt sander with 60 grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and sometimes a lighter
                    Message 9 of 27 , May 1 9:52 PM
                    • 0 Attachment
                      I second Chuck's suggestion, but I have also used a belt sander with 60
                      grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and
                      sometimes a lighter weight gets a nice finish for me. Standing back 10 feet
                      is also recommended.

                      Jim C

                      > -----Original Message-----
                      > From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
                      > Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 10:26 AM
                      > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                      > Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                      >
                      >
                      > Don's method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don't. I go for
                      > work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the weave, then
                      > Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet
                      > when you show
                      > it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.
                      >
                      > Chuck
                      >
                      > Subject: Re: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                      >
                      > Randy,
                      >
                      > To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible
                      > sanding battens.
                      > Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long,
                      > width is to fit
                      > a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
                      > suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and resin, maybe? Be
                      > sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll sand it all
                      > away each time :-)
                      >
                      > Cheers/Carron
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > Bolger rules!!!
                      > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
                      > - no flogging dead horses
                      > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
                      > - stay on topic and punctuate
                      > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
                      > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
                      > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                      >
                      >
                      > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                      >
                      >
                    • rrobar@segue.com
                      Thanks everyone. I ve decided to breakout the sander, roll on some paint, and push Micro into the water. It is after all a working sailboat, not a yacht. ...
                      Message 10 of 27 , May 2 5:41 AM
                      • 0 Attachment
                        Thanks everyone. I've decided to breakout the sander, roll on some
                        paint, and push Micro into the water. It is after all a working
                        sailboat, not a yacht.


                        --- In bolger@y..., "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@r...> wrote:
                        > I second Chuck's suggestion, but I have also used a belt sander
                        with 60
                        > grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and
                        > sometimes a lighter weight gets a nice finish for me. Standing
                        back 10 feet
                        > is also recommended.
                        >
                        > Jim C
                        >
                      • Orr, Jamie
                        I may be chiming in late on this one -- I had a pile of emails to deal with when I got home from Depoe Bay, so I probably didn t pay close attention to all of
                        Message 11 of 27 , May 2 8:13 AM
                        • 0 Attachment
                          I may be chiming in late on this one -- I had a pile of emails to deal with
                          when I got home from Depoe Bay, so I probably didn't pay close attention to
                          all of them. However, here's my two bits.

                          I hate sanding epoxy, so I try not to put on more than I have to. I use a
                          squeegee to wet out the cloth, and to remove excess, so that only a thin
                          coat is left on. I sometimes use a squeegee for the second, and even the
                          third coat, but more often use a thin foam roller (west) followed by
                          brushing to even out the coat and smooth the surface. Keeping the coats
                          thin cuts the sanding way down, and (almost) eliminates any chance of
                          sagging.

                          For a good description of the sanding operation, take a look at a the
                          Chesapeake Light Craft shop tips on their website. I follow these
                          guidelines for as long as I can stand it, then call the job finished -- I'm
                          not sure there is an "easiest" way, but maybe there is one that is least
                          difficult!

                          (I've promised myself that I'm going to build a boat without plywood, epoxy
                          or glass, but I haven't done it yet.)

                          Jamie Orr


                          -----Original Message-----
                          From: Jim Chamberlin RCSIS [mailto:jchamberlin@...]
                          Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 9:53 PM
                          To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?


                          I second Chuck's suggestion, but I have also used a belt sander with 60
                          grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and
                          sometimes a lighter weight gets a nice finish for me. Standing back 10 feet
                          is also recommended.

                          Jim C

                          > -----Original Message-----
                          > From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
                          > Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 10:26 AM
                          > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                          > Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                          >
                          >
                          > Don's method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don't. I go for
                          > work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the weave, then
                          > Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet
                          > when you show
                          > it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.
                          >
                          > Chuck
                          >
                          > Subject: Re: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                          >
                          > Randy,
                          >
                          > To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible
                          > sanding battens.
                          > Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long,
                          > width is to fit
                          > a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
                          > suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and resin, maybe? Be
                          > sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll sand it all
                          > away each time :-)
                          >
                          > Cheers/Carron
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Bolger rules!!!
                          > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
                          > - no flogging dead horses
                          > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
                          > - stay on topic and punctuate
                          > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
                          > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
                          > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                          >
                          >
                          > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                          >
                          >


                          Bolger rules!!!
                          - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
                          - no flogging dead horses
                          - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
                          - stay on topic and punctuate
                          - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
                          - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
                          01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349


                          Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                        • kwilson800@aol.com
                          Yep. That s why the last two boats were lapstrake plywood. Spend a little more for good plywood, sand a lot less. I m getting less and less tolerant of
                          Message 12 of 27 , May 2 9:47 AM
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Yep. That's why the last two boats were lapstrake plywood. Spend a
                            little more for good plywood, sand a lot less. I'm getting less and
                            less tolerant of sanding. The guy who wrote "Canoecraft" (Ted
                            Moore?) of Bear Mountain Canoe works, can do a better job of getting
                            fiberglass cloth smooth and flat than seems possible, but he hasn't
                            put his secret in the books. I wish he would.

                            Keith Wilson

                            --- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
                            > I hate sanding epoxy . . .
                            > (I've promised myself that I'm going to build a boat without
                            plywood, epoxy, or glass, but I haven't done it yet.)
                          • Paul A. Lefebvre, Jr.
                            I ve been sitting on the sidelines on this one, but having just recently sanded and varnished the fiberglass coating on my 4th cedar-strip canoe to foot-away
                            Message 13 of 27 , May 2 10:54 AM
                            • 0 Attachment
                              I've been sitting on the sidelines on this one, but having just recently
                              sanded and varnished the fiberglass coating on my 4th cedar-strip canoe to
                              foot-away quality bright finish inside and out, perhaps I oughta toss in my
                              2 cents worth, elaborating on Jamie's suggestions.
                              I do all my glass layup and subsequent coats in a single day - I put the
                              cloth on dry on bare wood, on an upside-down boat, wet it out and squeegee
                              off most of the resin with a very flexible plastic spatula (the ones sold by
                              West system, or for autobody work, are too stiff and will scrape out too
                              much resin! I prefer the plastic cake spatulas of the same rectangular
                              shape, sold under various names - I bought a bunch with 'frugal gourmet'
                              logos on them). This method takes alot of epoxy back out of the cloth in the
                              form of non-reusable foamy semi-kicked gunk, but saves so much sanding work
                              that I think it's worth the price.Once the resin is set up enough to be
                              firm, but still a bit tacky, roll, brush, or squeegee on a second coat to
                              fill the weave; a third coat for 6 oz and probably a 4th coat for anything
                              coarser, but on 4 oz. cloth 2 coats is just enough. You don't want to sand
                              through any cloth, it will seriously weaken the expensive sheath you went to
                              all the trouble to put on in the first place, so filling in the weave is
                              important; and if you leave it overnight and let the first layup coat harden
                              completely before recoating, you really should sand for good adhesion before
                              the second coat, or at least scrub with a scotchbrite and amonia to remove
                              the blush. Sanding after only 1 coat means you're weakening your cloth,
                              hence the long day and multiple coats to really do it most efficiently.
                              Presumably the blush 'floats' to the surface if you apply coats in
                              close-enough succession.
                              After going through this and applying 6 coats of Epifanes varnish, and
                              right up to delivering the canoe (it was a birthday gift to my brother), I
                              was swearing I'd never go through this again, at least to an unforgiving
                              varnish-perfect level of finish. Then we dropped it the Chesapeake on Easter
                              Sunday, and it all evaporated... I hadn't launched a boat since June of '95,
                              had forgotten what a sweet feeling it is - nothing comes close, and I feel
                              like a boatbuilder again. I'd post a photo but it's not a Bolger boat, and
                              I'll take the following cheap shot to help justify this post ;-): Now my
                              shop's empty and I'm free to start construction on my micro (sails have been
                              done for awhile), just as soon as I recover from Uncle Sam's rather vigorous
                              pat-down on April 15..... anyone paying attention to my ravings a couple
                              months ago already guessed I wouldn't make it to the Champlain messabout in
                              a micro this year, but I will bring something pretty that floats..... sorry
                              for the long post.

                              Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60 miles to my
                              north, and his iminent launch!

                              Paul Lefebvre
                            • djost@ma.ultranet.com
                              Paul, I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated, perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs that require a leisure
                              Message 14 of 27 , May 2 1:23 PM
                              • 0 Attachment
                                Paul,

                                I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
                                perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs that
                                require a leisure pace.

                                I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
                                The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
                                extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
                                but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
                                better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news is
                                that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
                                damage done other than financial.

                                DAvid JOst

                                "working rather than boatbuilding :-("
                                > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60 miles
                                to my
                                > north, and his iminent launch!
                                >
                                > Paul Lefebvre
                              • Jim Chamberlin RCSIS
                                A lot of emails? I only had 153. BTW, your boat is beautiful. Jim
                                Message 15 of 27 , May 2 2:08 PM
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  A lot of emails? I only had 153. BTW, your boat is beautiful.
                                  Jim

                                  > -----Original Message-----
                                  > From: Orr, Jamie [mailto:jorr@...]
                                  > Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 8:13 AM
                                  > To: 'bolger@yahoogroups.com'
                                  > Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > I may be chiming in late on this one -- I had a pile of emails to
                                  > deal with
                                  > when I got home from Depoe Bay, so I probably didn't pay close
                                  > attention to
                                  > all of them. However, here's my two bits.
                                  >
                                  > I hate sanding epoxy, so I try not to put on more than I have to. I use a
                                  > squeegee to wet out the cloth, and to remove excess, so that only a thin
                                  > coat is left on. I sometimes use a squeegee for the second, and even the
                                  > third coat, but more often use a thin foam roller (west) followed by
                                  > brushing to even out the coat and smooth the surface. Keeping the coats
                                  > thin cuts the sanding way down, and (almost) eliminates any chance of
                                  > sagging.
                                  >
                                  > For a good description of the sanding operation, take a look at a the
                                  > Chesapeake Light Craft shop tips on their website. I follow these
                                  > guidelines for as long as I can stand it, then call the job
                                  > finished -- I'm
                                  > not sure there is an "easiest" way, but maybe there is one that is least
                                  > difficult!
                                  >
                                  > (I've promised myself that I'm going to build a boat without
                                  > plywood, epoxy
                                  > or glass, but I haven't done it yet.)
                                  >
                                  > Jamie Orr
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > -----Original Message-----
                                  > From: Jim Chamberlin RCSIS [mailto:jchamberlin@...]
                                  > Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 9:53 PM
                                  > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                                  > Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > I second Chuck's suggestion, but I have also used a belt sander with 60
                                  > grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and
                                  > sometimes a lighter weight gets a nice finish for me. Standing
                                  > back 10 feet
                                  > is also recommended.
                                  >
                                  > Jim C
                                  >
                                  > > -----Original Message-----
                                  > > From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
                                  > > Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 10:26 AM
                                  > > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                                  > > Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > Don's method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don't.
                                  > I go for
                                  > > work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the
                                  > weave, then
                                  > > Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet
                                  > > when you show
                                  > > it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.
                                  > >
                                  > > Chuck
                                  > >
                                  > > Subject: Re: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                                  > >
                                  > > Randy,
                                  > >
                                  > > To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible
                                  > > sanding battens.
                                  > > Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long,
                                  > > width is to fit
                                  > > a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
                                  > > suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and
                                  > resin, maybe? Be
                                  > > sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll
                                  > sand it all
                                  > > away each time :-)
                                  > >
                                  > > Cheers/Carron
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > Bolger rules!!!
                                  > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
                                  > > - no flogging dead horses
                                  > > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
                                  > > - stay on topic and punctuate
                                  > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
                                  > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
                                  > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                                  > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Bolger rules!!!
                                  > - no
                                  > cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
                                  > - no flogging dead horses
                                  > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
                                  > - stay on topic and punctuate
                                  > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
                                  > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
                                  > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Bolger rules!!!
                                  > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
                                  > - no flogging dead horses
                                  > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
                                  > - stay on topic and punctuate
                                  > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
                                  > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
                                  > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                  >
                                  >
                                • rrobar@segue.com
                                  Thanks for all the responses! I ve decided to go with the looks- great-from-10-feet option: sand lightly, cover with paint, then push Micro into the water.
                                  Message 16 of 27 , May 2 2:14 PM
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    Thanks for all the responses! I've decided to go with the looks-
                                    great-from-10-feet option: sand lightly, cover with paint, then push
                                    Micro into the water. Afterall, it's a sailboat, not a yacht.

                                    randy
                                    quickly turning lots of expensive wood and epoxy into dust outside
                                    Boston


                                    --- In bolger@y..., "Paul A. Lefebvre, Jr." <paul@w...> wrote:
                                    > I've been sitting on the sidelines on this one, but having just
                                    recently
                                    > sanded and varnished the fiberglass coating on my 4th cedar-strip
                                    canoe to
                                    > foot-away quality bright finish inside and out, perhaps I oughta
                                    toss in my
                                    > 2 cents worth, elaborating on Jamie's suggestions.
                                    > I do all my glass layup and subsequent coats in a single day -
                                    I put the
                                    > cloth on dry on bare wood, on an upside-down boat, wet it out and
                                    squeegee
                                    > off most of the resin with a very flexible plastic spatula (the
                                    ones sold by
                                    > West system, or for autobody work, are too stiff and will scrape
                                    out too
                                    > much resin! I prefer the plastic cake spatulas of the same
                                    rectangular
                                    > shape, sold under various names - I bought a bunch with 'frugal
                                    gourmet'
                                    > logos on them). This method takes alot of epoxy back out of the
                                    cloth in the
                                    > form of non-reusable foamy semi-kicked gunk, but saves so much
                                    sanding work
                                    > that I think it's worth the price.Once the resin is set up enough
                                    to be
                                    > firm, but still a bit tacky, roll, brush, or squeegee on a second
                                    coat to
                                    > fill the weave; a third coat for 6 oz and probably a 4th coat for
                                    anything
                                    > coarser, but on 4 oz. cloth 2 coats is just enough. You don't want
                                    to sand
                                    > through any cloth, it will seriously weaken the expensive sheath
                                    you went to
                                    > all the trouble to put on in the first place, so filling in the
                                    weave is
                                    > important; and if you leave it overnight and let the first layup
                                    coat harden
                                    > completely before recoating, you really should sand for good
                                    adhesion before
                                    > the second coat, or at least scrub with a scotchbrite and amonia to
                                    remove
                                    > the blush. Sanding after only 1 coat means you're weakening your
                                    cloth,
                                    > hence the long day and multiple coats to really do it most
                                    efficiently.
                                    > Presumably the blush 'floats' to the surface if you apply coats in
                                    > close-enough succession.
                                    > After going through this and applying 6 coats of Epifanes
                                    varnish, and
                                    > right up to delivering the canoe (it was a birthday gift to my
                                    brother), I
                                    > was swearing I'd never go through this again, at least to an
                                    unforgiving
                                    > varnish-perfect level of finish. Then we dropped it the Chesapeake
                                    on Easter
                                    > Sunday, and it all evaporated... I hadn't launched a boat since
                                    June of '95,
                                    > had forgotten what a sweet feeling it is - nothing comes close, and
                                    I feel
                                    > like a boatbuilder again. I'd post a photo but it's not a Bolger
                                    boat, and
                                    > I'll take the following cheap shot to help justify this post ;-):
                                    Now my
                                    > shop's empty and I'm free to start construction on my micro (sails
                                    have been
                                    > done for awhile), just as soon as I recover from Uncle Sam's rather
                                    vigorous
                                    > pat-down on April 15..... anyone paying attention to my ravings a
                                    couple
                                    > months ago already guessed I wouldn't make it to the Champlain
                                    messabout in
                                    > a micro this year, but I will bring something pretty that
                                    floats..... sorry
                                    > for the long post.
                                    >
                                    > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60 miles
                                    to my
                                    > north, and his iminent launch!
                                    >
                                    > Paul Lefebvre
                                  • ellengaest@boatbuilding.com
                                    Hi David, Why are you drilling the holes? I would imagine that if you can drive the broken drill bits into the lead and are using bronze nails(stronger/stiffer
                                    Message 17 of 27 , May 2 6:20 PM
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      Hi David,
                                      Why are you drilling the holes? I would imagine that if you can
                                      drive the broken drill bits into the lead and are using bronze
                                      nails(stronger/stiffer then lead) then should they not drive in just
                                      as easily?

                                      Got my Micro all wet this evening at 18:25!!!!!!!What a wonderful
                                      feeling to be on board after a long winter on the hard.Judging by the
                                      way she dipped and rolled while I was on board,I would have to guess
                                      that she is tickled pink at being back in her element.Were it not for
                                      other obligations later this evening,I would have spent the night on
                                      board!!!!!!!

                                      Sure wish I coulda been there to help with the keel.......
                                      Sincerely,
                                      Peter Lenihan,going through something of a heat wave with temps in
                                      the 29 to 30 degree celsius range,on the shores of the St.Lawrence....


                                      --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
                                      > Paul,
                                      >
                                      > I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
                                      > perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs
                                      that
                                      > require a leisure pace.
                                      >
                                      > I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
                                      > The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
                                      > extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
                                      > but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
                                      > better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news
                                      is
                                      > that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
                                      > damage done other than financial.
                                      >
                                      > DAvid JOst
                                      >
                                      > "working rather than boatbuilding :-("
                                      > > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60
                                      miles
                                      > to my
                                      > > north, and his iminent launch!
                                      > >
                                      > > Paul Lefebvre
                                    • Clyde S. Wisner
                                      When you spread this stuff with a roller, you might try tipping with a dry foam brush, drag the brush across after you spread a couple of sq ft, no down
                                      Message 18 of 27 , May 3 6:03 AM
                                      • 0 Attachment
                                        When you spread this stuff with a roller, you might try "tipping" with a dry foam brush, drag the
                                        brush across after you spread a couple of sq ft, no down presure. May eliminate orange peel. Clyde

                                        ellengaest@... wrote:

                                        > Hi Randy,
                                        > Not too sure what you're after;"a smooth fiberglass surface" or "a
                                        > paintable surface".If "paintable",then I would stop where you are and
                                        > begin with the paint à la workboat finish.However,if it is the smooth
                                        > fiberglass look you are seeking then I would proceed as follows:
                                        > Finish sanding the second coat of epoxy.
                                        > Get hold of Interlux 401/402(if I recall correctly!) Barrier
                                        > coat.
                                      • djost@ma.ultranet.com
                                        No Peter, In my test run, the bronze nails bent too much prior to seating due to the antimony that was added to the casting. The casting is too hard to drive
                                        Message 19 of 27 , May 3 6:30 AM
                                        • 0 Attachment
                                          No Peter,
                                          In my test run, the bronze nails bent too much prior to seating
                                          due to the antimony that was added to the casting. The casting is too
                                          hard to drive the nails, yet too soft for very sharp titanium drills.
                                          I will try dipping a less sharp drill bit in kerosene (plenty of those
                                          hurricane lamps in the garage) and try the other side this weekend.

                                          David Jost
                                          "Suffering from Micro envy, knock it off Peter! :-)"
                                          >
                                          > Got my Micro all wet this evening at 18:25!!!!!!!What a wonderful
                                          > feeling to be on board after a long winter on the hard.Judging by the
                                          > way she dipped and rolled while I was on board,I would have to guess
                                          > that she is tickled pink at being back in her element.Were it not for
                                          > other obligations later this evening,I would have spent the night on
                                          > board!!!!!!!
                                          >
                                          > Sure wish I coulda been there to help with the keel.......
                                          > Sincerely,
                                          > Peter Lenihan,going through something of a heat wave with temps in
                                          > the 29 to 30 degree celsius range,on the shores of the St.Lawrence....
                                          >
                                          >
                                          > --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
                                          > > Paul,
                                          > >
                                          > > I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
                                          > > perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs
                                          > that
                                          > > require a leisure pace.
                                          > >
                                          > > I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
                                          > > The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
                                          > > extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
                                          > > but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
                                          > > better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news
                                          > is
                                          > > that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
                                          > > damage done other than financial.
                                          > >
                                          > > DAvid JOst
                                          > >
                                          > > "working rather than boatbuilding :-("
                                          > > > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60
                                          > miles
                                          > > to my
                                          > > > north, and his iminent launch!
                                          > > >
                                          > > > Paul Lefebvre
                                        • Paul A. Lefebvre, Jr.
                                          Dave, I acquired a drill press a couple years ago, with vastly variable speed, and owning it has allowed me to experiment drilling things I never would have
                                          Message 20 of 27 , May 3 7:46 AM
                                          • 0 Attachment
                                            Dave,
                                            I acquired a drill press a couple years ago, with vastly variable speed,
                                            and owning it has allowed me to experiment drilling things I never would
                                            have tackled by hand before. Seems like the slower speeds work better with
                                            metals; not as much torque when it grabs, as it inevitably does when you
                                            don't have the thing perfectly clamped down in a proper vise; your keel
                                            isn't moving but your arms surely are, same effect. I've only drilled
                                            aluminum and some steel, not lead, so can't speak from firsthand experience
                                            (yet!) but a slower drill speed is easy and cheap to experiment with. I have
                                            an old Sears 3/8" variable-speed reversing drill I picked up cheap at a yard
                                            sale, hardly ever use it now that I have a cordless, but the little knob on
                                            the trigger that lets you set the max trigger depth/drill speed might be
                                            just the kind of gadget you'd need for this. Just a thought.... If you want
                                            to borrow it, meet me at Logan Wednesday, lunchtime ;-).... or I can Fed-ex
                                            it up to you if you want it sooner!
                                            I've got even more micro envy than you! At least you're working on yours,
                                            I'm preparing for a 2-week business trip, and looking at yet more delays to
                                            start construction.... But I do enjoy Peter's ravings about his sweet little
                                            boat.

                                            good luck!

                                            Paul

                                            > -----Original Message-----
                                            > From: djost@... [mailto:djost@...]
                                            > Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 9:30 AM
                                            > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                                            > Subject: [bolger] Re: Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                                            >
                                            >
                                            > No Peter,
                                            > In my test run, the bronze nails bent too much prior to seating
                                            > due to the antimony that was added to the casting. The casting is too
                                            > hard to drive the nails, yet too soft for very sharp titanium drills.
                                            > I will try dipping a less sharp drill bit in kerosene (plenty of those
                                            > hurricane lamps in the garage) and try the other side this weekend.
                                            >
                                            > David Jost
                                            > "Suffering from Micro envy, knock it off Peter! :-)"
                                            > >
                                            > > Got my Micro all wet this evening at 18:25!!!!!!!What a wonderful
                                            > > feeling to be on board after a long winter on the hard.Judging by the
                                            > > way she dipped and rolled while I was on board,I would have to guess
                                            > > that she is tickled pink at being back in her element.Were it not for
                                            > > other obligations later this evening,I would have spent the night on
                                            > > board!!!!!!!
                                            > >
                                            > > Sure wish I coulda been there to help with the keel.......
                                            > > Sincerely,
                                            > > Peter Lenihan,going through something of a heat wave with temps in
                                            > > the 29 to 30 degree celsius range,on the shores of the St.Lawrence....
                                            > >
                                            > >
                                            > > --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
                                            > > > Paul,
                                            > > >
                                            > > > I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
                                            > > > perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs
                                            > > that
                                            > > > require a leisure pace.
                                            > > >
                                            > > > I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
                                            > > > The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
                                            > > > extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
                                            > > > but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
                                            > > > better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news
                                            > > is
                                            > > > that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
                                            > > > damage done other than financial.
                                            > > >
                                            > > > DAvid JOst
                                            > > >
                                            > > > "working rather than boatbuilding :-("
                                            > > > > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60
                                            > > miles
                                            > > > to my
                                            > > > > north, and his iminent launch!
                                            > > > >
                                            > > > > Paul Lefebvre
                                            >
                                            >
                                            >
                                            > Bolger rules!!!
                                            > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
                                            > - no flogging dead horses
                                            > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
                                            > - stay on topic and punctuate
                                            > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
                                            > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
                                            > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                            >
                                            >
                                            > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                            >
                                            >
                                            >
                                          • Jim Chamberlin RCSIS
                                            Randy, This is the conclusion that I think most of us come to...decent finish and launch the thing. To satisfy that desire to put something on the boat with a
                                            Message 21 of 27 , May 3 8:57 AM
                                            • 0 Attachment
                                              Randy,

                                              This is the conclusion that I think most of us come to...decent finish and
                                              launch the thing.

                                              To satisfy that desire to put something on the boat with a high quality
                                              finish to it, try adding a few pieces of bright finished mahogany, oak, teak
                                              (really expensive) etc. The gunwales and inwales of my first Pointy Skiff
                                              are done in Philipine Mahogany. The hardwood looks good and so far has held
                                              up great to dock banging, oar whacking, and little kids dragging things on
                                              and off the boat.

                                              Jim

                                              > -----Original Message-----
                                              > From: rrobar@... [mailto:rrobar@...]
                                              > Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 2:15 PM
                                              > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                                              > Subject: [bolger] Re: Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > Thanks for all the responses! I've decided to go with the looks-
                                              > great-from-10-feet option: sand lightly, cover with paint, then push
                                              > Micro into the water. Afterall, it's a sailboat, not a yacht.
                                              >
                                              > randy
                                              > quickly turning lots of expensive wood and epoxy into dust outside
                                              > Boston
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > --- In bolger@y..., "Paul A. Lefebvre, Jr." <paul@w...> wrote:
                                              > > I've been sitting on the sidelines on this one, but having just
                                              > recently
                                              > > sanded and varnished the fiberglass coating on my 4th cedar-strip
                                              > canoe to
                                              > > foot-away quality bright finish inside and out, perhaps I oughta
                                              > toss in my
                                              > > 2 cents worth, elaborating on Jamie's suggestions.
                                              > > I do all my glass layup and subsequent coats in a single day -
                                              > I put the
                                              > > cloth on dry on bare wood, on an upside-down boat, wet it out and
                                              > squeegee
                                              > > off most of the resin with a very flexible plastic spatula (the
                                              > ones sold by
                                              > > West system, or for autobody work, are too stiff and will scrape
                                              > out too
                                              > > much resin! I prefer the plastic cake spatulas of the same
                                              > rectangular
                                              > > shape, sold under various names - I bought a bunch with 'frugal
                                              > gourmet'
                                              > > logos on them). This method takes alot of epoxy back out of the
                                              > cloth in the
                                              > > form of non-reusable foamy semi-kicked gunk, but saves so much
                                              > sanding work
                                              > > that I think it's worth the price.Once the resin is set up enough
                                              > to be
                                              > > firm, but still a bit tacky, roll, brush, or squeegee on a second
                                              > coat to
                                              > > fill the weave; a third coat for 6 oz and probably a 4th coat for
                                              > anything
                                              > > coarser, but on 4 oz. cloth 2 coats is just enough. You don't want
                                              > to sand
                                              > > through any cloth, it will seriously weaken the expensive sheath
                                              > you went to
                                              > > all the trouble to put on in the first place, so filling in the
                                              > weave is
                                              > > important; and if you leave it overnight and let the first layup
                                              > coat harden
                                              > > completely before recoating, you really should sand for good
                                              > adhesion before
                                              > > the second coat, or at least scrub with a scotchbrite and amonia to
                                              > remove
                                              > > the blush. Sanding after only 1 coat means you're weakening your
                                              > cloth,
                                              > > hence the long day and multiple coats to really do it most
                                              > efficiently.
                                              > > Presumably the blush 'floats' to the surface if you apply coats in
                                              > > close-enough succession.
                                              > > After going through this and applying 6 coats of Epifanes
                                              > varnish, and
                                              > > right up to delivering the canoe (it was a birthday gift to my
                                              > brother), I
                                              > > was swearing I'd never go through this again, at least to an
                                              > unforgiving
                                              > > varnish-perfect level of finish. Then we dropped it the Chesapeake
                                              > on Easter
                                              > > Sunday, and it all evaporated... I hadn't launched a boat since
                                              > June of '95,
                                              > > had forgotten what a sweet feeling it is - nothing comes close, and
                                              > I feel
                                              > > like a boatbuilder again. I'd post a photo but it's not a Bolger
                                              > boat, and
                                              > > I'll take the following cheap shot to help justify this post ;-):
                                              > Now my
                                              > > shop's empty and I'm free to start construction on my micro (sails
                                              > have been
                                              > > done for awhile), just as soon as I recover from Uncle Sam's rather
                                              > vigorous
                                              > > pat-down on April 15..... anyone paying attention to my ravings a
                                              > couple
                                              > > months ago already guessed I wouldn't make it to the Champlain
                                              > messabout in
                                              > > a micro this year, but I will bring something pretty that
                                              > floats..... sorry
                                              > > for the long post.
                                              > >
                                              > > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60 miles
                                              > to my
                                              > > north, and his iminent launch!
                                              > >
                                              > > Paul Lefebvre
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > Bolger rules!!!
                                              > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
                                              > - no flogging dead horses
                                              > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
                                              > - stay on topic and punctuate
                                              > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
                                              > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
                                              > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                              >
                                              >
                                            • djost@ma.ultranet.com
                                              Paul, I am sorry I can t meet you at Logan on Wed. My school superintendent would frown on me skipping out on my teaching responsibilies. (I have a concert
                                              Message 22 of 27 , May 3 9:00 AM
                                              • 0 Attachment
                                                Paul,
                                                I am sorry I can't meet you at Logan on Wed. My school
                                                superintendent would frown on me skipping out on my teaching
                                                responsibilies. (I have a concert that night anyway). I have been
                                                using the cordless and it is either slow or fast with no inbetween. I
                                                am going to try the variable speed electric and pick up an handful of
                                                real cheap bits and just go through them. If they break they will
                                                become part of the boat. what the heck . . .

                                                David Jost
                                                "avoiding work again"

                                                > to borrow it, meet me at Logan Wednesday, lunchtime ;-).... or I can Fed-ex
                                                > it up to you if you want it sooner!
                                                > I've got even more micro envy than you! At least you're working on yours,
                                                > I'm preparing for a 2-week business trip, and looking at yet more delays to
                                                > start construction.... But I do enjoy Peter's ravings about his sweet little
                                                > boat.
                                                >
                                                > good luck!
                                                >
                                                > Paul
                                                >
                                                > > -----Original Message-----
                                                > > From: djost@m... [mailto:djost@m...]
                                                > > Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 9:30 AM
                                                > > To: bolger@y...
                                                > > Subject: [bolger] Re: Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > No Peter,
                                                > > In my test run, the bronze nails bent too much prior to seating
                                                > > due to the antimony that was added to the casting. The casting is too
                                                > > hard to drive the nails, yet too soft for very sharp titanium drills.
                                                > > I will try dipping a less sharp drill bit in kerosene (plenty of those
                                                > > hurricane lamps in the garage) and try the other side this weekend.
                                                > >
                                                > > David Jost
                                                > > "Suffering from Micro envy, knock it off Peter! :-)"
                                                > > >
                                                > > > Got my Micro all wet this evening at 18:25!!!!!!!What a wonderful
                                                > > > feeling to be on board after a long winter on the hard.Judging by the
                                                > > > way she dipped and rolled while I was on board,I would have to guess
                                                > > > that she is tickled pink at being back in her element.Were it not for
                                                > > > other obligations later this evening,I would have spent the night on
                                                > > > board!!!!!!!
                                                > > >
                                                > > > Sure wish I coulda been there to help with the keel.......
                                                > > > Sincerely,
                                                > > > Peter Lenihan,going through something of a heat wave with temps in
                                                > > > the 29 to 30 degree celsius range,on the shores of the St.Lawrence....
                                                > > >
                                                > > >
                                                > > > --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
                                                > > > > Paul,
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
                                                > > > > perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs
                                                > > > that
                                                > > > > require a leisure pace.
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
                                                > > > > The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
                                                > > > > extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
                                                > > > > but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
                                                > > > > better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news
                                                > > > is
                                                > > > > that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
                                                > > > > damage done other than financial.
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > DAvid JOst
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > "working rather than boatbuilding :-("
                                                > > > > > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60
                                                > > > miles
                                                > > > > to my
                                                > > > > > north, and his iminent launch!
                                                > > > > >
                                                > > > > > Paul Lefebvre
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > Bolger rules!!!
                                                > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
                                                > > - no flogging dead horses
                                                > > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
                                                > > - stay on topic and punctuate
                                                > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
                                                > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
                                                > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                              • KF4call@aol.com
                                                The Fall 2000 Epoxyworks , published by West, has an article titled Fiberglassing a Woodstrip Hull...Techniques for a Perfect Clear Finish . Covers all
                                                Message 23 of 27 , May 4 5:17 AM
                                                • 0 Attachment
                                                  The Fall 2000 "Epoxyworks", published by West, has an article titled
                                                  "Fiberglassing a Woodstrip Hull...Techniques for a Perfect Clear
                                                  Finish". Covers all sorts of things such as vaiations in technique depending
                                                  on the coat. They recommend different approaches for first, second and third
                                                  coats. The content is quite thorough and even goes into detail on the type
                                                  of rags to use. There isn't a lot here on finishing, but I imagine, if ou
                                                  can get it on smoother, the finishing should be less demanding.

                                                  In our discussion, I haven't heard much on the use of scrapers...sharp
                                                  blades held nearly vertical to the surface. Anyone using them? What happens
                                                  if you hit the glass cloth with a scraper?

                                                  Regards,
                                                  Warren

                                                  In a message dated 5/4/2001 6:53:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
                                                  jorr@... writes:

                                                  << > -----Original Message-----
                                                  > From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
                                                  > Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 10:26 AM
                                                  > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                                                  > Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > Don's method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don't. I go for
                                                  > work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the weave, then
                                                  > Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet
                                                  > when you show
                                                  > it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.
                                                  >
                                                  > Chuck
                                                  > >>
                                                • Chuck Leinweber
                                                  Hi, Warren: I use scrapers a lot, not just on boats. They work very well on epoxy/glass, with these caveats: Try to do the scraping on heavy areas before the
                                                  Message 24 of 27 , May 4 5:49 AM
                                                  • 0 Attachment
                                                    Hi, Warren:

                                                    I use scrapers a lot, not just on boats. They work very well on
                                                    epoxy/glass, with these caveats: Try to do the scraping on heavy areas
                                                    before the resin is completely cured, and use good steel, as they will get
                                                    dull fast enough when you hit glass.

                                                    Chuck


                                                    In our discussion, I haven't heard much on the use of scrapers...sharp
                                                    blades held nearly vertical to the surface. Anyone using them? What
                                                    happens
                                                    if you hit the glass cloth with a scraper?

                                                    Regards,
                                                    Warren
                                                  • phillip_lea@yahoo.com
                                                    Agree with Jim. I have used 100% acrylic satin house paint that can get scuffed off, but having a few varnished pieces (mast, tiller, etc.) sets off the whole
                                                    Message 25 of 27 , May 4 11:18 AM
                                                    • 0 Attachment
                                                      Agree with Jim. I have used 100% acrylic satin house paint that can
                                                      get scuffed off, but having a few varnished pieces (mast, tiller,
                                                      etc.) sets off the whole boat -- scuffed paint doesn't look nearly so
                                                      bad. Spar varnish over clear coat epoxy (System 3) is a rugged
                                                      finish.

                                                      Phil Lea

                                                      --- In bolger@y..., "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@r...> wrote:
                                                      > To satisfy that desire to put something on the boat with a high
                                                      quality
                                                      > finish to it, try adding a few pieces of bright finished mahogany,
                                                      oak, teak
                                                      > (really expensive) etc. The gunwales and inwales of my first Pointy
                                                      Skiff
                                                      > are done in Philipine Mahogany.
                                                    • j.c.ewing@home.com
                                                      I ve been using pull-scrapers to remove old finish on the hull of my Tendercraft stripper skiff, Nandessa. The cloth beneath is probably only about 2-oz. but
                                                      Message 26 of 27 , May 4 4:05 PM
                                                      • 0 Attachment
                                                        I've been using pull-scrapers to remove old finish on the hull of my
                                                        Tendercraft stripper skiff, Nandessa. The cloth beneath is probably
                                                        only about 2-oz. but I've found the scraper only grazes it, without
                                                        noticeable damage.

                                                        I'm not keen on chemical stripping and a pull-stripper alone had left
                                                        patches of old varnish on the (somewhat rough) oaken outer stem and
                                                        keel, skeg and rub strips. So today I used a heat gun along with the
                                                        pull-scraper and everything came off beautifully. I also tried this
                                                        technique on a spot where I'd been unable to sand or scrape old
                                                        varnish off the clear-coat (but deteriorated) epoxy. It almost worked
                                                        too well, the epoxy bubbling when it got too hot. But it almost makes
                                                        me think about heat-stripping the old epoxy right off the 'glass for
                                                        a nice, fresh base.

                                                        John in Victoria


                                                        --- In bolger@y..., KF4call@a... wrote:
                                                        > In our discussion, I haven't heard much on the use of
                                                        scrapers...sharp
                                                        > blades held nearly vertical to the surface. Anyone using them?
                                                        What happens
                                                        > if you hit the glass cloth with a scraper?
                                                        >
                                                        > Regards,
                                                        > Warren
                                                      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.