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68216Re: [bolger] Re: Windsprint Mast/Sail Questions- Minor Noob Pickle

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  • Scot McPherson
    Jun 24, 2012
      If when you go to the lumber yards or home depot or lowes or whatever, take a look at the SPF 2x4s. For the most part it will be pine, but sometime you find a pile that is mostly pink tinged (yes pink). The pink wood is much harder that the yellow or white. I don't know what tree it is, but I suspect it is spruce. Generally I will grab as much of it as my car can carry on it's roof. I use it for most of my marine related projects. It's good for everything except canoe paddles because it tends to be heavy, and a heavy canoe paddle fatigues you quickly. I carve 1 piece otter tail paddles out of 2x4s and beaver tail paddles out of 2x6s and 2x8s.

      You can make a mast out of laminating two of these pink 2x4s and carving it out. The pink stuff is harder though, and harder on your planes and spoke shaves. 

      Scot McPherson, PMP CISSP MCSA
      Old Lyme, CT
      Le Claire, IA
      Sent from my iPhone

      On Jun 24, 2012, at 9:17 AM, "MPCOSG" <mpcosg@...> wrote:


      Thanks David and Peter for those responses. Thanks Joe for the words on taper

      After, re-re-re-re-reading BTNIB (particularly in the chapter on wood) I noticed Mr Payson does speak of using local Maine spruce and wrote that he used it often. Doug fir are Sitka are mentioned, but it seems only in passing comments and possibly hard to come by for most. Local fir is mentioned, but as then I have a hard time finding it in 16ft lengths. He actually states in the chapter on building the Gypsy, "Pine, Spruce, Fir - they're all OK as is most anything that is reasonably free of large knots and poor grain." So that made me feel good.

      Also I noticed the taper for the Gypsy doesn't seem to be that far off from the taper of a Windsprint. My math is pretty horrible but I'm coming up with...
      2 1/8" at the base
      1.5' above that,tapered out to 2 1/2",
      At the masthead, I think tapered to 1 1/8"

      Thinking about 2 routes to go. One would be keeping the taper constant at 2.5" above 2'6".
      The second would be, from above 2'6" keeping it at 2 1/2" all the way up to about 10'. Then past 10ft to 15.5' I plan on a gentle taper to 2.0".

      Thanks, Matt

      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Joe T" <scsbmsjoe@...> wrote:
      > The mast taper can be determined by scaling from the drawing on page 81 in BTNIB. I suggest you do it with a metric ruler and a magnifying glass. I would keep it 3" up to 2'6" except for the taper at the bottom. For a solid mast you could leave the lower portion square then scale off the drawing every foot or two to determine the taper of the upper 14 feet. Lay out and cut the taper on four sides. Then use a jig to mark for 8 siding. You can leave it there or keep trimming with your plane and sand it round. Many options. You choose.
      > Note that the drawing states "Mast 16'6" overall - fir or harder." Your use of local spruce will be an interesting experiment. -
      > Joe T

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