67251Re: [bolger] Re: Scaled-down Single-handed Schooner
- Jan 10, 2012I use Xnole a lot on bottoms, I need the abrasion resistance because
where I live we have shorelines not beaches. It is a real pain to
finish, I am trying out that rolling plastic over it method that was in
Duckworks 7-8 years ago.
I am using powdered copper in the mix, seems to work, still working on
the details. You can get a real high copper ratio and still get a smooth
I sure wouldn't use Xynole on the sides, way too much work, and quite a
bit more epoxy.
On 1/10/2012 2:30 AM, lboatman@... wrote:
> Thanks for the heads-up on the sailing characteristics. That will be
> very reassuring to have in the back of my mind when it starts to heel on
> the maiden voyage. It's interesting that in all the photos I've found on
> the web and in print that Susan's boat is always vertical and Tony's is
> always heeled. He's also mostly hiked out. I'm really looking forward to
> trying it out on the water now. BTW, what kind of speeds have you you
> Xynole - you're a better man than I am, Gunga Din. Now that you've had
> it a while, was the Xynole worth it? My thought was since it can't be
> launched off a beach that the bottom would be pretty safe. I expect that
> the keel and rudder would take all the impacts long before the bottom.
> I'm actually more worried about the bow, stern and sides smashing into
> pilings and other boats.
> One day when you have the time and inclination, it'd be fun if you added
> a post-launch section to your blog. Maybe some pictures under sail,
> observations about the sailing characteristics and lessons learned.
> You'd definitely have an audience.
> Have fun,
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "efemiket"<mthompson0900@...> wrote:
>> A couple of notes from my experience of building SHS which might be of
> general interest (already emailed you offline):
>> I share your horror of metal fasteners in wooden boats. The only metal
> fasteners used on my SHS are the bronze screws in the daggerboard which
> give the lead something to cling to, and some bronze screws reinforcing
> the cockpit and hold coamings. Everything else is just thickened epoxy
> glue, reinforced on the exterior of the hull with Xynole cloth
> (Kevlar-like, very tough and a lot more work to get filled nicely with
> resin - probably takes twice as much resin to get a smooth filled
> surface). The interior lumber and bulkheads were all just glued to the
> planks and bottom. I used 1 inch drywall screws to hold things in place
> until the glue cured, then removed them afterward. Everything is holding
> up well so far.
>> Like Susan Davis I upped the 100 lbs of lead to about 150, so that the
> daggerboard probably weighs about 180 lbs all in. This makes it a real
> pig to manhandle when launching and hauling out. Unless you're built
> like Tarzan it's a two-person operation to raise or lower this thing.
> Bolger says it sails 'on its ear' as designed. It is certainly more
> stable with the extra weight, but it is still sails on its ear in any
> kind of breeze - it stiffens up a lot after heeling well over, but you
> have to get used to it. I get concerned looks from my passengers in the
> hold sometimes, hehe. Having a smaller boat with a lighter daggerboard
> will make everything that much easier getting in and out of the water.
> Bolger rules!!!
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