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67251Re: [bolger] Re: Scaled-down Single-handed Schooner

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  • Harry James
    Jan 10, 2012
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      I use Xnole a lot on bottoms, I need the abrasion resistance because
      where I live we have shorelines not beaches. It is a real pain to
      finish, I am trying out that rolling plastic over it method that was in
      Duckworks 7-8 years ago.


      I am using powdered copper in the mix, seems to work, still working on
      the details. You can get a real high copper ratio and still get a smooth

      I sure wouldn't use Xynole on the sides, way too much work, and quite a
      bit more epoxy.


      On 1/10/2012 2:30 AM, lboatman@... wrote:
      > Mike,
      > Thanks for the heads-up on the sailing characteristics. That will be
      > very reassuring to have in the back of my mind when it starts to heel on
      > the maiden voyage. It's interesting that in all the photos I've found on
      > the web and in print that Susan's boat is always vertical and Tony's is
      > always heeled. He's also mostly hiked out. I'm really looking forward to
      > trying it out on the water now. BTW, what kind of speeds have you you
      > gotten?
      > Xynole - you're a better man than I am, Gunga Din. Now that you've had
      > it a while, was the Xynole worth it? My thought was since it can't be
      > launched off a beach that the bottom would be pretty safe. I expect that
      > the keel and rudder would take all the impacts long before the bottom.
      > I'm actually more worried about the bow, stern and sides smashing into
      > pilings and other boats.
      > One day when you have the time and inclination, it'd be fun if you added
      > a post-launch section to your blog. Maybe some pictures under sail,
      > observations about the sailing characteristics and lessons learned.
      > You'd definitely have an audience.
      > Have fun,
      > Laszlo
      > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "efemiket"<mthompson0900@...> wrote:
      >> A couple of notes from my experience of building SHS which might be of
      > general interest (already emailed you offline):
      >> I share your horror of metal fasteners in wooden boats. The only metal
      > fasteners used on my SHS are the bronze screws in the daggerboard which
      > give the lead something to cling to, and some bronze screws reinforcing
      > the cockpit and hold coamings. Everything else is just thickened epoxy
      > glue, reinforced on the exterior of the hull with Xynole cloth
      > (Kevlar-like, very tough and a lot more work to get filled nicely with
      > resin - probably takes twice as much resin to get a smooth filled
      > surface). The interior lumber and bulkheads were all just glued to the
      > planks and bottom. I used 1 inch drywall screws to hold things in place
      > until the glue cured, then removed them afterward. Everything is holding
      > up well so far.
      >> Like Susan Davis I upped the 100 lbs of lead to about 150, so that the
      > daggerboard probably weighs about 180 lbs all in. This makes it a real
      > pig to manhandle when launching and hauling out. Unless you're built
      > like Tarzan it's a two-person operation to raise or lower this thing.
      > Bolger says it sails 'on its ear' as designed. It is certainly more
      > stable with the extra weight, but it is still sails on its ear in any
      > kind of breeze - it stiffens up a lot after heeling well over, but you
      > have to get used to it. I get concerned looks from my passengers in the
      > hold sometimes, hehe. Having a smaller boat with a lighter daggerboard
      > will make everything that much easier getting in and out of the water.
      >> Mike
      > ------------------------------------
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