67030Re: Micro Bow Modification
- Oct 13, 2011as for the mast taper .... one of the things that most impressed me was the mast taper for the Black Skimmer. A 36 foot stick that started out at (I think) around 5" diameter and ended up about an inch and a quarter. Bolger knew what he was doing--the whole point was to de-power the sail in gusts and help keep the mast from breaking. It worked amazingly well. I wondered when I was building that mast how he managed to even figure it out, since it was a graduated, i.e. curved, taper, and the dimensions over that 36 feet were down to the 1/16th of an inch. Truly a Zen understanding of the forces at work, I thought. It looked very fragile (and dramatic) in the boat, but stood up to 30mph gusts with no sign of failure.
Anyhow, maybe that applies to the micro, too. IE, mason's right--don't mess with it. It's part of a well-thought out system.
Also, as for pointing the bow of a micro... I'd apply the exact same comment: don't mess with the vision of the guy who was one of the world's great sharpie designers. Visually it would be like putting one of those fake Bentley grilles on a Porsche 356. The reason the flat sides work (visually) is because of the vertical sides and transom and the flat on the bow. All the elements are in balance--there's art happening. Bolger had a design vocabulary that was deeper and broader than anybody else I can think of. If you pointed it it would look horrible, ass-heavy, and plywood-y.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, <masonsmith@...> wrote:
> I concur with Bruce that "bow slap"
> isn't a problem and you say the reasons
> for pointing the bow would be mostly
> cosmetic. My sense is that a pointed bow
> would have a negative esthetic effect.
> The boat is awfully nice as it is, and
> the esthetic change needed is in the eye
> of any beholder (and they are legion)
> who says different. What's so cute about
> Micro? Well, for one thing, the profile
> view with plumb ends and masts at both
> extremities. That aspect would be
> destroyed by carrying the sides forward
> past the mainmast. Esthetically it is
> important (in my eye) to paint a
> slightly sheering waterline above the
> bottom paint, and probably dark
> topsides, somehow to accentuate the
> horizontal. Otherwise the boat is,
> granted, pretty homely on a trailer.
> Otherwise, handsome is as handsome does.
> All the same, I have not
> ever camped aboard my Micro enough
> nights in succession to learn to sleep
> well through the bottom slap, which is
> troublesome even in the slightest
> ripple. I don't care, really, but if I
> were to make any modification to Micro
> it might be something to divert wavelets
> so they don't cluck so loudly against
> that flat bottom. Nothing reasonable
> comes to mind. Some old long-johns full
> of planer-shavings suspended over that
> square bow? -Mason
> And while I am at it, anent
> my new Micro mast. I have the clear
> spruce in hand and have looked into
> doing it birdsmouth but there's one
> problem: The designed taper brings the
> diameter down to an inch and a half at
> masthead. If you make the staves a
> reasonable thickness for a good
> birdsmouth at the wider parts, where it
> is 3.5" in diameter, and this means
> about an inch thick, what happens at the
> masthead? Taper the staves in thickness?
> Reduce the birdsmouth accordingly? No,
> no thanks. I think you would need to
> make the mast much thicker than designed
> up there and when it's all glued up
> plane it down. That rather spoils the
> fun and the wood-efficiency of
> birdsmouth construction. So I think I
> will be making my mast just as Phil
> proposes in the plans. Comments most
> welcome. ---Mason
- << Previous post in topic Next post in topic >>