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66267Re: AS29 Bilgeboard Case Problem

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  • freshairfiend
    May 18, 2011
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      Chris, that is a great idea for a sanding block, which I'll need to remember. Thanks!

      Well, the job is done, and the "long-tailed sanding block" worked pretty well. Some photos of the block:


      I ended up making up three shims of different thicknesses, then just sanded out to each thickness w/40 grit paper before putting in the next thicker shim. But there's a lot of physical effort involved in that sort of sanding. I didn't work on it any longer than a few hours at a session, so it took several mornings to get done. In retrospect I wonder if it would have been a lot faster and less strenuous to rig up some sort of shoe for a Surform rasp blade instead of sandpaper.

      I ended up not going through the side because it didn't look like any of the frames needed replacement.

      Michael Wagner:
      "If you do cut away the face of the trunk, I think it would be best to leave the chine log in place. The chine log is an integral part of the hull structure and cutting through it will weaken the whole boat.

      We had very slight leaks on Walkure last year. We were able to cut away small portions of the hull on each side, leaving the chine log in place. We were lucky as there was no water damage to the log itself."

      Agree about the chine logs. In fact, with the bottom planking off around the cases, you can reach fairly deeply up into the cases, so there's really no reason to make a cut below the "belt line" where the top and bottom sections of the hull sides are glued together, unless as in your case that is where the damage is. I may have some side replacement below the belt line on the starboard side aft end of the b-board case (no leak but the plywood doesn't look too good), but I am going to close up the port side before getting into it.

      I think everyone with an AS-29, or almost everyone, has had problems with leaks in the corners of the bilgeboard cases, and the layout of the case interior exposes quite a lot of wood and several important glue joints to direct contact with the water. It's a problematical construction. I've often wished PCB had specified leeboards for the AS-29, as he did for several similar boats. I don't know why he went with the bilgeboards; possibly Dan Farmer(?) insisted "no leeboards" when he commissioned the prototype. But in the longer term I think problems with the boards have made people wary of the design, and with reason. I think if I were interested in building a new AS-29, I would go with a strip-planked Alert/Manatee instead, for better structural reliability and more flexible sea-keeping ability.

      Many thanks to all for your help and suggestions!


      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Chris" <gaff_rigged72@...> wrote:
      > Here's one trick for making a fantastic sanding block I learned for scribing cabinets tops. Take a belt from a belt sander, cut a piece of scrap wood (approx 3/4 works well), or 3/4" plywood. Rip it to the belt width, then cut it to the interior length of the belt (or maybe start 1/4" long or so). Then bevel or round off the corners and shove it in the belt, it sould be nice and snug. The beauty of this tool is that the "paper" is rugged as hell and the block is really stiff, but narrow. Then Rick you could try to attach something like John's mega handle.
      > Maybe that helps
      > Chris Brunette
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