Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

62987Re: Stitch & Glue Gloucester Light Dory - The real answer

Expand Messages
  • proaconstrictor
    Feb 5, 2010
      Eliminating chine logs doesn't make it stitch and glue, it makes it a boat with epoxy/liquid joinery. I have done that with most of my Bolgers. I also eliminate the draggy (I suppose, never built one) outside chine arrangement. The outside chine is there to make the boat easier to clean, but with a tapped interior joint it amounts to the same thing. Come to think of it I did once row a Payson built GLD, and it rowed fine, with I presume the outside chine.

      One thing is that his three piece boats, the boxes and dories depend on the chine to fully pop out the sides, they may be a little limp without the chine logs there. On the octagonal section ones like Nymph the 45 degree angles will pop out nicely.

      What I do when building one of the chine log boats, I I leave it in, then I nail the bottom to it, then when I flip the boat, I bog the inside joint with a 1.5" radius filleting knife made out of some 1/4" plywood. I then lay some tape in there, and smooth it out into the epoxy with my gloved hand and wet the tape out with a disposible blush (keep it in a can with an inch of acetone in the bottom and a lid. One can reuse the same brush all summer, and no cleaning, except for working excess glue out before it goes into the bath).

      Then just flip the boat upside down, use a jigsaw, or router with a bearing guide, or a grinder, etc... to remove the chine (no permanent screws were used to mount it). I round over the external chine with the grinder, until some of the epoxy fillet from the inside peaks through. Keep the lines of ply and fillet nice and smooth, possibly fair with hand plane or long board. Fill any holes with bog, and imdediately lay tape over the little bits and peices of bog (1-3 cabosil to q-cell epoxy putty). Wet out some more tape. The pro finish is to keep laying down tape in declining layers like 6", 4", etc... The narrow stuff goes on last. When that kicks off you take a scraper and scrape down the selvage edge (raised edges of tape). Qucik grind or if you don't want fiber glass dust in the air some drywall liek fairing with several trouled on layers of 410. Topcoat with epoxy and paint.

      This is sorta tack and tape, however Payson's boats were scantled for use of polyester resin. With epoxy one can leave out the extra bulkheads/ring frames, and finish the interior, as if the boat was made of strip planing etc... That said, some of the smaller boats using longi seats like Nymph, and EP ned the mid bulkhead regardless.

      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Murray" <ugoigotoo@...> wrote:
      > Hi,
      > I am wondering if anybody on here has built the Gloucester Light Dory using stitch and glue rather than chine logs?
      > I am looking at the Gloucester LIght Dory and Sam Devlin's Oarling dory as possibilities for my next boat. Does anybody have experience with both designs and any advice to share?
      > Cheers,
      > Murray Stevens
      > Saskatoon SK Canada
    • Show all 23 messages in this topic