62969RE: [bolger] Re: Stitch & Glue Gloucester Light Dory
- Feb 4, 2010
One of Payson’s books shows expanded panels for a Light Dory. There are several designers who have drawn variations of Light Dory including a version with more rocker and less sheer by Michalak and a slightly bigger version by Welsford—write ups and plans available from Duckworks.
Unless you really like sanding fiberglass and epoxy, I would suggest that plywood panels on timber chines is a lot quicker and cleaner boatbuilding technique.
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Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 9:42 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Stitch & Glue Gloucester Light Dory
> I am wondering if anybody on here has built the Gloucester Light Doryusing stitch and glue rather than chine logs?
>possibilities for my next boat. Does anybody have experience with both designs and any advice to share?
> I am looking at the Gloucester LIght Dory and Sam Devlin's Oarling dory as
I built the Long Light Dory using stitch and glue. This boat is a 19'-6" version of the GLD. It's no trouble to build that way - basically just two long taped fillets on the inside. The design was developed for stitch & glue from the start.
The big difference, if I'm not mistaken, is that the original was not intended for "instant" style construction, where the panel shapes are predefined and the location of frames or molds are indicated on the panel layouts. As such, you have to set the molds on a jig or ladder frame and spile or otherwise take the panel shapes from the setup. At this point a chine log starts to make things easier because it defines the bottom edge of the side panels. You could spring a batten to accomplish the same result if you really want to use S&G, but you'll have to get the bottom fitted and somehow attached to the sides before you can flip it over and off the jig to start taping the inside joints.
It might be worth emailing Payson to see if he's come up with predefined panels for the GLD. He did it for another older non-instant Bolger design, Sea Hawk.
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