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54457Re: delamination of resin and plywood

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  • lancasterdennis
    Jun 25, 2007
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      -
      Well Denny,

      That's a tall order in my books. I have never been under the gate in
      a small sailboat, but I know it can get really rough and dangerous
      due to currents as mentioned. When I think bluewater and rough
      conditions, I think, full keel, powerful hull design. Many a small
      boat has circumnavigated as we all know. Much of it has to do with
      the skill of the skipper and the soundness and sea keeping abilities
      of the boat. You will have to hear from more experienced Bolger boat
      owners as to the bluewater capabilites of these square boats. My Old
      Shoe will only sail on lakes... I'm done cruising and crashing around
      on the high seas.. even on my 11,000lb full keel 30 ft sailboat, I
      was still biting my nails a number of times. I recall speaking with
      the Pardey's at Port Townsend Wooden Boat show one year and what they
      said about going bluewater was to be sure your hull is sound... what
      can I say.

      Best of luck to you.

      Regards,

      Dennis
      Bellingham, Wa


      -- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Mingear <dennismingear@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > Thanks Dennis, the Micro is cool, no doubt.
      >
      > Is there anything in the 14 to 18 foot range that uses plywood
      construction that could be used for that kind of sailing?
      >
      > A 16 foot sailboat would be about perfect, anything that you
      might recomend, that size, that would work in that kind of water?
      >
      > Denny ...
      >
      > lancasterdennis <dlancast@...> wrote:
      > -
      > Lets not forget the Micro. However, I would not consider the Micro
      > to be a bluewater boat and if you are talking about making the
      > Farallons...
      >
      > Dennis
      > Bellingham, WA
      >
      > -- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@> wrote:
      > >
      > > I'm sure several others on the list will chime in. There is
      > a "Motor Sailer" variation of the Chebacco that was built for SF
      Bay
      > and the Cruising Conversion would help keep the cold breezes away.
      > http://www.chebacco.com/
      > >
      > > The classic boat for that bay is the Pelican, but it's not a
      Bolger
      > design, and the 12' version is not what one would call a pocket
      > cruiser. That said, until you have some sailing experience, there
      is
      > nothing more valuable than getting in with a fleet of similar
      boats.
      > http://community-
      > 2.webtv.net/PelicanSailboat/SFPELICANSAILBOATS/index.html
      > >
      > > Roger
      > > derbyrm@
      > > http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
      > >
      > > ----- Original Message -----
      > > From: Dennis Mingear
      > > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
      > > Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 1:42 PM
      > > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: delamination of resin and plywood
      > >
      > >
      > > It is a great place, the aviation bent makes for higher prices
      > I'm sure. I only mentioned it because they have some limited but
      > concise information on fillers and so on.
      > >
      > > The alcohol dilution would only be used to fill the fiberglass
      > cloth weave. I agree with you in that it would not be appropriate
      for
      > anything else.
      > >
      > > I've spent a lot of time looking at pocket cruiser plans. I live
      > in the San Franisco Bay Area and I'm looking for a small plans
      built
      > sailboat that I could use to sail the Bay and cruise the coastal
      > waters of California including the Farallons.
      > >
      > > I know that boats like this are very personal but I'll venture a
      > question anyway.
      > >
      > > Do you have any comments for a small sailboat suitable for this
      > kind of work - uh ... fun?
      > >
      > > I've looked at several but I don't know enough about any of them
      > to make an informed descision.
      > >
      > > Thanks for any comments you may provide.
      > >
      > > Denny ...
      > >
      > > derbyrm <derbyrm@> wrote:
      > > Thank you Dennis. I prefer undiluted epoxy for filling since its
      > strength is important to the fiberglass/epoxy composite.
      > Microballoons have the lowest rating for strength of the many
      fillers.
      > >
      > > You'll see phenolic microballons used on my centerboard at
      > http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/CBdetail.html I'll be coating it
      > with graphite filled epoxy soon to make it more slippery and less
      > likely to jam in the case.
      > >
      > > I've been a happy customer of Aircraft Spruce for several
      > decades. Good stuff, good service, VERY high prices.
      > >
      > > Roger
      > > derbyrm@
      > > http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
      > >
      > > ----- Original Message -----
      > > From: Dennis Mingear
      > > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
      > > Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 10:04 AM
      > > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: delamination of resin and plywood
      > >
      > > Yes, but, depending on the ratio of resin to filler you can also
      > use it as a filler for the weave of the cloth that you used on the
      > plywood. You can also include some alcohol in the filler mix and
      make
      > a very dry micro-mix that is very much easier to sand than just
      resin
      > and micro balloons alone.
      > >
      > > The aircraft people first fill the weave with a micro slurry and
      > then after sanding, fill the remaining or resulting pin holes with
      > various spray-on fillers with UV inhibitors.
      > >
      > > Lots of info on these procedures in the homebuilt aircraft world
      > and websites.
      > >
      > > So depending on the mix, it can be used for fairing and filling.
      > >
      > > Denny ...
      > >
      > > derbyrm <derbyrm@> wrote:
      > > As I understand it, microballoons, whether phenolic or glass, are
      > for fairing. Once the surface is the right shape, you still need a
      > primer to fill those broken baubles and get ready for your final
      coat
      > of paint.
      > >
      > > Roger
      > > derbyrm@
      > > http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
      > >
      > > ----- Original Message -----
      > > From: Dennis Mingear
      > > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
      > > Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 8:59 AM
      > > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: delamination of resin and plywood
      > >
      > > Hello, I'm new to the group, just joined today.
      > >
      > > Go to this link http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cm/index.html
      > >
      > > They have a nice article on very lightweight fillers and some
      > good info on various types of cloth. It's an homebuilt aircraft
      site,
      > so saving weight and construction time are important to them.
      > >
      > > Micro balloons and epoxy can make a very nice light weight
      > filler, but sanding it down to a mirror like finish will still be a
      > challenge.
      > >
      > > Denny ...
      > >
      > > "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@> wrote:
      > > Some great answers the only thing I would add is if you are going
      > to
      > > cover a boat with a tarp buy a good one and create a way for air
      > to
      > > circulate so it can dry out if it gets damp or wet.
      > >
      > > Jon
      > >
      > > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Just resin is not the answer you need to glass cloth
      > > > to add bulk for the resin harden in also the cloth
      > > > helps in adding to the over all strenth of the hulls
      > > > as well.
      > > >
      > > > Epoxy is the best to use and as for your glass cloth
      > > > look at your industral styles I like the 7781 for the
      > > > simple reason it's a satin finsh to the cloth so you
      > > > get a smoother finsh from the cloth then "boat cloth".
      > > > You are going to spend a bit more for your cloth BUT
      > > > it will save you hours in sanding time and epoxy to
      > > > fill the boat cloth.
      > > >
      > > > I know they make a number of lighter weights of the
      > > > same style cloth but I can't remember the numbers but
      > > > if you look at www.fiberglasssupply.com I think is the
      > > > site they will have it listed.
      > > >
      > > > Yep you will need to clean up the hulls to bright wood
      > > > and start all over. I'm sure you didn't want to hear
      > > > that.
      > > >
      > > > Also make sure your hulls are sealed so no water can
      > > > get into them no matter where it comes from. That will
      > > > give your hulls the best chance to see a long and
      > > > usefull life.
      > > >
      > > > Blessings Krissie
      > >
      > > ---------------------------------
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      > > Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
      > >
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