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50979Re: [bolger] How would Mr Bolger update Cynthia J?

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  • Gene T.
    Oct 6, 2006
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      Graeme,
      Doubling or trippling the bottom will only help righting on
      a boat that is not flooded. Once the boat is filled, all that plywood
      becomes flotation and will have the opposite effect. I think you need
      some dense weight down there, lead, steel, at least epoxy filled with
      something heavy. Then extra flotation to make sure you don't go right
      to the bottom! 8^D

      Sincerely,

      "A house ashore is but a boat, so poorly
      built it will not float ---- "

      ----- Original Message ----
      From: graeme19121984 <graeme19121984@...>
      To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Thursday, October 5, 2006 11:49:25 PM
      Subject: [bolger] How would Mr Bolger update Cynthia J?

      The designer got around to Otter ll himself, but to my knowledge
      hasn't and is, I suppose, unlikely to get around to CynthiaJ ll. So,
      guided by study of developments of other PCB&F designs over the
      years, how would Cynthia J be improved/modified? Modified, that is,
      to be a bit more suited to pursuits other than just pond picnic
      daysailing with a gaggle of fun, kids, and family aboard. To really
      be self rescueing at the least.



      RIG.
      PCB&F wrote, when considering the Beach Cat design, of the issues
      some have nowadays with the long footed gaff cat rig. I'd like to
      keep the basic long foot rig to try it for fast and weatherly, but
      there may be other worthwhile modifications. How about a Camper, or
      other tabernacle; or a Wandervogel vang for instance?

      Place a stop on the mast to bear its weight at the partner and not
      the floor, and so eliminate both the doubling of the bottom member
      of frame #1 and the through-hull bolt located there.

      Place halyards cleat on the mast and eliminate their compressive
      load transference that required the strengthening floor bolt in the
      first place.



      BOTTOM.
      Double or triple plywood layer. This should allow removal of most of
      the bottom shoes, and also the irksome inside bottom stiffening
      cleats that muck up a lovely flat cuddy floor for lying on.

      Sheath bottom in fibreglass before fixing bottom shoes etc.

      Will this be stiff enough?



      BOUYANCY/BALLAST.
      As the flooded boat is reported difficult to get to remain upright,
      and impossible to do so with the rig in place, these aspects need
      attention. The increased bottom thickness already mentioned will
      help put weight where needed, but is it enough? Transferring
      flotation situated down low, as per the underseat foam blocks, to a
      higher location also should help, but again is it enough?

      Also as in the changes from Otter to Otter ll, watertight
      compartmentalisation seems required. The cuddy should be very flood
      resistant, or watertight. Altering Frame #1 to a watertight bulkhead
      will have very little effect on cuddy space. There's still enough to
      lie down in. The space in front of the then Bulkhead #1 should
      perhaps then be made a free draining flooded well? And perhaps the
      large triangular foam block there in the bow could be done away
      with?

      Bulkhead #3 needs altering by filling in the swinging cuddy doors
      and replacing with cuddy access much higher up. Duckboard in the
      bulkhead with decktop sliding hatch; or just a deck hatch, perhaps
      hinged?

      Box-in the entire space aft of the cockpit seats from floor to rails
      and make a huge bouyancy/storage compartment with top hatch access.
      It may be more convenient to shorten the seats and box-in aft from
      Frame #4 ( how many people are to be carried anyway? You won't be
      able to stretch out on the cockpit floor any more, but a great
      galley box and cooler could be built into the forward side of that
      aft compartment.). Offset the rudder to allow a small outboard
      mounted on the transom. Recess the end of the compartment in way of
      the outboard.

      Fix foam blocks under aft compartment deck, and foam sheet under
      fore part of cuddy deck as insurance.

      Use two ballast sandbags; one beneath each seat, both shifted to
      windward side when under sail.

      LEEBOARDS.
      I'd be inclined to try assymetrics, even though it seems PCB doesn't
      think they're needed. They'd be even easier to shape, assuming the
      designed ones are not merely flat plates

      YULOH.
      Leave the outboard at home, take a yuloh and Cynthia J may just be a
      very competitive Everglades Challenge short course entrant. What do
      you think?

      What else could be done, or needs doing?

      Graeme

      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/CynthiaJ/

      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/Cynthia%20J/

      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger_study_plans_only/files/Cynthia%
      20J./









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