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29909Re: Bruce's teal mast

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  • oneillparker
    Aug 2, 2003
      > Am wondering if that much sail
      > without a way to reef might be
      > a problem in certain winds???

      Reefing by rolling around the mast won't let you rig the sprit. Big
      drawback. Old-time New Haven sharpies used to have brails up the luff
      to allow reefing that way.
      I put reef points on my Cartoppers' sails. Same rig. They work great.
      Obviously you'll need a halyard. Halyards add a lot of stress to a
      mast. Bolger specifies mast dimensions for these rigs without
      figuring in halyard stress. If you go the halyard route (and I've
      sailed my Cartoppers reefed many, many times, with great enjoyment),
      you'll want to dimension the mast a little bigger, or, rig up a jam
      cleat at the mast head to relieve halyard stress. I use an open type
      cleat mounted about 12" down from the masthead, in way of the
      halyard. I hoist as usual, look up to make sure the halyard is in the
      jam cleat, secure the downhaul, then I can let go the halyard and the
      sail stays up. It works like a charm, and tremdously reduces mast
      bend. When you want to douse sail, just pull the halyard away from
      the mast, the jam cleat lets go, and down she comes.

      > I am also curious of opinions of
      > how to cut the sail. Leech and
      > foot straight, the luff should be
      > 'fattened' by 3" is my guess.
      > Though, perhaps the flexibility
      > of the needle thin mast might
      > be enough for the 'fattening'
      > of the sail without any special cut.

      You do want some mast bend. It will significantly de-power the sail
      in gusts.
      Cut the foot dead straight. Cut some hollow in the leech to avoid
      flutter. You do want draft, and a fair about of it because its a
      catboat (no jib to help direct mainsail flow), so cut the luff about
      3%-5% longer than the chord (horizantal dimension of the sail at any
      given point). That number is gleaned from "The Sailmakers Apprentice"
      by Emiliano Marino.

      In higher winds tighten the snotter, the mast bends, and takes the
      round out of the luff, flattening the sail and de-powering it.
      Downwind in light air loosen the snotter and allow the sail to
      billow, giving more power. In medium/high winds, downwind, tighten
      the snotter to flatten sail and reduce/eliminate rythmic roll (a
      scary thing). You might consider rigging up the snotter so you can
      alter its verticle position. This gives you some additional leech
      control. In lighter winds set it low on the mast, in higher winds set
      it high. In real high winds set it lower (but not low) allowing the
      leech to open and spilling some breeze, while yet allowing the
      snotter to be kept tight, bending that mast (further de-powering).

      I bought my sails, pre-cut but not assembled, from Sailrite, and have
      been quite pleased with them (although I don't think they cut enough
      draft into them).

      Hope that helps.

      John O'Neill
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