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29814Re: houseboat #481

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  • ben_azo
    Jul 29, 2003
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      Nice pics Paul,I am curious to see her finished.succes
      Stephan
      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <bys@c...> wrote:
      > I have added a few more pictures to Bolger2 houseboat file
      and sent
      > stuff to chuck at duckworks for inclusion into his projects.
      >
      http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger2/lst?&.dir=/houseb
      oat&.src=gr&.=
      >
      view=t&.url=http%3a//us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2734417/hou
      seboat/uprights.j=
      > pg%3fbcYfHJuB3.kftan_&.cx=150&.cy=89&.type=u
      > Things are going very well and John Bartlett visited for a while
      and
      > his CBBS came in handy but I have trouble keeping up. Here
      is some of
      > the text I sent to chuck for inclusion into the article. Right now
      > John is off cruising the Rideau River in the Turtle and I am
      staging
      > material for the next bender we go on. Should be boating but I
      think
      > I got a bit of the CBBS myself. Oh well, it is better than SARS
      > With the hull in almost perfect alignment the interior
      construction
      > could start almost immediately. With the help of John we
      leveled the
      > cabin floor timbers and built the honeycomb of stringers to
      hold the
      > forward and rear deck. The four corner posts were installed,
      the
      > forward and aft cabin bulkheads measured, cut and installed.
      At the
      > same time I epoxy coated the ply for the floor, coated and
      glassed the
      > deck pieces and the upper sides. Also by coating and
      glassing the
      > preconstructed forward and aft bulkheads we saved a lot of
      finishing
      > time after construction. We pre finished the uprights for the
      window
      > frames and installed them with alignment for the bathroom
      and closet.
      > The window frames are made out of 1/4" ply and we cut them
      before
      > epoxy coating and glassing the exterior. Since the windows
      are so
      > large, very little epoxy or glass was used for this operation.
      > Before installing the window frames, the roof was built.
      > Roof: The roof trusses were made out of full 1" ash wood and
      the
      > stringers out of 3/4" ash also. The clear wood was a treat to
      work
      > with, is very strong (free too from the old barn wood discussed
      > earlier) and beautiful to look at without any finish on it. We
      precut
      > the trusses and aligned them on a bench and planed them to
      the same
      > exact size. After installing the header, (Mr. Bolger calls it a
      > clamp) we attached the trusses the laid in the stringers with
      > thickened epoxy using a string to align them. When dry we laid
      on the
      > first sheet of ½" ply which was glassed on the topside and
      nicely
      > finished with epoxy on the underside. We marked where the
      stringers
      > were, removed the sheet, pre drilled from the marks and then
      drilled
      > for counter sinks from the topside. (About 40 screws per
      sheet) Then
      > we applied thickened epoxy to the top of each stringer and
      truss
      > before CAREFULLY setting each sheet in it place then
      screwed them
      > down. The result was well beyond my expectations for both
      appearance
      > and strength.
      > Windows: Various options were discussed at length. I decided
      to build
      > all the windows (10 large windows for both sides and the front)
      from 1
      > ½" eastern pine and tinted acrylic mainly because I had the
      lumber and
      > the price of the acrylic was very reasonable at a local plastic
      > supplier. They turned out looking very nice and with gluing and
      > screwing them together with a ½" grove for the acrylic are very
      > strong. After installing the window frames and mocking up the
      window
      > slides, we decided to add three smaller windows so it would
      be
      > possible to see outside while the bed was down and in use.
      These
      > windows will be fixed closed but the upper windows will have
      both the
      > forward and rear ones sliding to open. This gives plenty of
      > ventilation or visibility for the skipper at the helm, one opens in
      > the bathroom, one over the cooking area and one over the
      dinette.
      > Since each window is 36" high by 30" wide this gives plenty of
      > opportunity for ventilation. Roll down screens that velcro shut
      will
      > keep the bugs out when the windows are open if necessary.
      Both front
      > windows are removable with a couple of wing nuts and the
      same
      > arrangement for screens is used.
      > Trim and Doors: Discussion is now under way to determine
      the final
      > look. With the structure and roof done and almost paint ready,
      we
      > have to decide on the overall look. I am leaning towards using
      the
      > eastern pine to make 1 ½" inch trim and door frames. We
      have decided
      > to make a sliding door for both the rear entrance and the
      bathroom
      > door, probably out of ½" ply with brass or bronze screen and a
      > removable window for the rear door. Right now I am leaning
      towards
      > the modified bifold door for the front doors with 2 18" doors on
      long
      > piano hinges which fold away from the helm station and nest
      flat
      > against the front bulkhead. Again I would make two windows
      in each
      > front door with screens and removable acrylic panels for
      inclement
      > weather and trailer travel.
      > More to come on the final look and assembly of the windows,
      doors and
      > trim.
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