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13815Re: latex paints

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  • Lincoln Ross
    Aug 22 7:19 AM
      Lots of paint films use other solvents. There is an alcohol based
      paint which is sold as a vapor barrier.
      --- In bolger@y..., pvanderw@o... wrote:
      >
      > It's my understanding that basically all paint films are porus to
      > water vapor. How else does the paint dry, lest the sovent at the
      base
      > evaporates through the paint layer to the surface? Epoxy, on the
      > other hand, does not "dry" but changes chemically to a solid.
      >
      > PHV
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In bolger@y..., Richard <rocwandrer@p...> wrote:
      > > Hi all,
      > >
      > > i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I have
      > been reading some propaganda
      > > (advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i
      know
      > that proper moisture content wood
      > > should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house
      > paint is formulated to be porous? how
      > > do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good
      one
      > for a boat. I am still trying to
      > > decide whether to glass or not, but i probably wont because i
      don't
      > feel comfortable doing fiberglass
      > > work....
      > >
      > > not so short question huh?
      > > Richard
      > >
      > > bolger@y... wrote:
      > >
      > > > Bolger rules!!!
      > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
      horses
      > > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
      > like
      > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
      > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
      > > >
      ------------------------------------------------------------------
      > ------
      > > >
      > > > There are 5 messages in this issue.
      > > >
      > > > Topics in this digest:
      > > >
      > > > 1. RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
      > > > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
      > > > 2. Re: Sharpie Pounding
      > > > From: raymcquin@y...
      > > > 3. Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
      > > > From: dbaldnz@y...
      > > > 4. Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
      > > > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
      > > > 5. An article to salivate over . . .
      > > > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
      > > >
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      > > > Message: 1
      > > > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:55:54 -0500
      > > > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
      > > > Subject: RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
      > > >
      > > > Richard:
      > > >
      > > > I like the UHMW idea. You may remember that I used it for
      > parrels on my
      > > > Caprice. Also for hatch glides. You can get extruded bushing
      > stock from
      > > > McMaster-carr with 1-1/4" ID and various OD's.
      > > >
      > > > Chuck
      > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > Ah, that would make sense.
      > > > >
      > > > > Googling shows quite a few references to "uhmw bushings
      aluminum
      > > > > shaft"... Even a couple of marine ones.
      > > > >
      > > > > For the low load, slow speed application of rudder,
      > centerboard, and
      > > > > tabernacle pivot, think I could get away with 1 1/8" aluminum
      > > > > shafting and uhmw poly bushings?
      > > > >
      > > > > I suspect the bushings and shafts would last quite a few years
      > of
      > > > > normal trailer sailing use. I'd be sure to design the setup so
      > it's
      > > > > easy to dissassemble for inspections and/or replacements.
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In bolger@y..., kwilson800@a... wrote:
      > > > > > Why doesn't aluminum make a good bearing? The reason bare
      > aluminum
      > > > > > doesn't "rust" in normal use is that it forms a very thin
      > coating
      > > > > of
      > > > > > aluminum oxide on the surface which inhibits further
      > corrosion. In
      > > > > a
      > > > > > bearing application, this coating is continuously worn off
      and
      > > > > > renewed. Well, guess what, the aluminuum oxide left inside
      > the
      > > > > > beaing is quite an effective abrasive. You could probably
      > hardcoat
      > > > > > anodize it, or "hardlube", which is hardcoat anodizing
      > impregnated
      > > > > > with teflon. There are also several proprietary processes
      to
      > make
      > > > > > aluminum into a decent bearing surface, "Nituff" is one of
      the
      > > > > better-
      > > > > > known ones, but by the time you've gone through all that
      > trouble,
      > > > > why
      > > > > > not just use bronze or stainless steel in the first place?
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Keith Wilson
      > > > > >
      > > > > > --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
      > > > > > > UHMW poly has a pretty low melting point. Wonder if I
      could
      > cast
      > > > > > > parts out of it?
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > Also, why doesn't it work well with aluminum?
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > Bolger rules!!!
      > > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
      > horses
      > > > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
      > you like
      > > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
      > > > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
      > > > >
      > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
      > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      > > > Message: 2
      > > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 04:49:23 -0000
      > > > From: raymcquin@y...
      > > > Subject: Re: Sharpie Pounding
      > > >
      > > > Bryan,
      > > >
      > > > I've searched for info on Phil Theil with no luck. Can you
      > provide
      > > > any links to his designs?
      > > >
      > > > Thanks,
      > > > Ray McQuin
      > > >
      > > > --- In bolger@y..., king@c... wrote:
      > > > > My wife and I just spent a weekend on my Escargot, a bolger
      > > > inspired
      > > > > design by Phil Theil.
      > > >
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      > > > Message: 3
      > > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 05:11:04 -0000
      > > > From: dbaldnz@y...
      > > > Subject: Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
      > > >
      > > > Glen, I am nearly through re-painting my Micro with latex. I
      > sanded
      > > > the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some
      > parts of
      > > > the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad.
      Then
      > > > started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well,
      as
      > > > the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
      > > > about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1
      > coat
      > > > of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my
      > > > random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
      > > > primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly with
      "wet
      > &
      > > > dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied as
      > firmly
      > > > as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of
      the
      > > > paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
      > > > painting...never leave it on for longer.
      > > > These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
      > > > versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
      > > > development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
      > > > final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
      > > > DonB
      > > >
      > > > --- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down
      > to
      > > > the
      > > > > last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the
      > painting
      > > > > process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a
      high
      > > > quality
      > > > > latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
      > > > >
      > > > > By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
      > > > fiberglassed
      > > > > with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
      > > > >
      > > > > Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling
      > small
      > > > > scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand
      > off to
      > > > fill
      > > > > small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does
      > the
      > > > latex
      > > > > paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than
      > some
      > > > of the
      > > > > other finishes, like LPU, etc).
      > > > >
      > > > > Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
      > > > painting
      > > > > tips.
      > > > >
      > > > > Thanks
      > > > >
      > > > > Glen Gibson
      > > >
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      > > > Message: 4
      > > > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:36:51 -0800
      > > > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
      > > > Subject: Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
      > > >
      > > > Use plastic screen and it probably won't scrape.
      > > >
      > > > HJ
      > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > He has mentioned somewhere that WW I torpedo boats used a
      > > > > window screen two or three inches in front of their glass
      > > > > windscreens in order to reduce the likelihood of the glass
      being
      > > > > shattered by wave action. Screen might work to reduce sharpie
      > > > > slap. I have in mind a loose roll of plastic window screen big
      > > > > enough in diameter to reach from the bow to an inch or two
      > > > > underwater, and long enough to extend a little beyond the
      sides
      > > > > of the boat and to make a place for light cord lashings to
      hold
      > it
      > > > > in place.
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > This may scrape the bottom paint a little, but what is a good
      > > > > night's sleep worth to you?
      > > > >
      > > > > Vance
      > > > >
      > > > > Bolger rules!!!
      > > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
      > horses
      > > > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
      > you like
      > > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
      > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
      > > > >
      > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
      > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      > > >
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      > > > Message: 5
      > > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:11:10 +0100 (BST)
      > > > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
      > > > Subject: An article to salivate over . . .
      > > >
      > > > Hi,
      > > >
      > > > Pleasant surprise this morning. Postman arrived with
      > > > the new Water Craft mag.
      > > >
      > > > Big article (5 pages) on Micro by Peter de Boer, with
      > > > mouth-watering pics of his gold-plater Micro. Not for
      > > > him luan underlayment - Oh no! - Genuine Bruynzeel
      > > > ply! Brass portholes, too. Fantastic finish with
      > > > more than the usual amount of brightwork.
      > > >
      > > > I wonder if this is the first Bolger boat ever to be
      > > > built out of Bruynzeel?
      > > >
      > > > Apart from the wonderful pics, there's a good honest
      > > > appraisal of how she performs.
      > > >
      > > > A 'must' for Micro enthusiasts!
      > > >
      > > > Bill Samson
      > > >
      > > > ____________________________________________________________
      > > > Do You Yahoo!?
      > > > Get your free @... address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
      > > > or your free @... address at http://mail.yahoo.ie
      > > >
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      > __
      > > >
      > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
      > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      > >
      > > --
      > > To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
      --Thomas
      > Edison
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