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13812Re: latex paints

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  • pvanderw@optonline.net
    Aug 22, 2001
    • 0 Attachment
      It's my understanding that basically all paint films are porus to
      water vapor. How else does the paint dry, lest the sovent at the base
      evaporates through the paint layer to the surface? Epoxy, on the
      other hand, does not "dry" but changes chemically to a solid.

      PHV



      --- In bolger@y..., Richard <rocwandrer@p...> wrote:
      > Hi all,
      >
      > i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I have
      been reading some propaganda
      > (advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i know
      that proper moisture content wood
      > should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house
      paint is formulated to be porous? how
      > do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good one
      for a boat. I am still trying to
      > decide whether to glass or not, but i probably wont because i don't
      feel comfortable doing fiberglass
      > work....
      >
      > not so short question huh?
      > Richard
      >
      > bolger@y... wrote:
      >
      > > Bolger rules!!!
      > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
      > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
      like
      > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
      Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
      > > ------------------------------------------------------------------
      ------
      > >
      > > There are 5 messages in this issue.
      > >
      > > Topics in this digest:
      > >
      > > 1. RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
      > > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
      > > 2. Re: Sharpie Pounding
      > > From: raymcquin@y...
      > > 3. Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
      > > From: dbaldnz@y...
      > > 4. Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
      > > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
      > > 5. An article to salivate over . . .
      > > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
      > >
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      > > Message: 1
      > > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:55:54 -0500
      > > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
      > > Subject: RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
      > >
      > > Richard:
      > >
      > > I like the UHMW idea. You may remember that I used it for
      parrels on my
      > > Caprice. Also for hatch glides. You can get extruded bushing
      stock from
      > > McMaster-carr with 1-1/4" ID and various OD's.
      > >
      > > Chuck
      > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Ah, that would make sense.
      > > >
      > > > Googling shows quite a few references to "uhmw bushings aluminum
      > > > shaft"... Even a couple of marine ones.
      > > >
      > > > For the low load, slow speed application of rudder,
      centerboard, and
      > > > tabernacle pivot, think I could get away with 1 1/8" aluminum
      > > > shafting and uhmw poly bushings?
      > > >
      > > > I suspect the bushings and shafts would last quite a few years
      of
      > > > normal trailer sailing use. I'd be sure to design the setup so
      it's
      > > > easy to dissassemble for inspections and/or replacements.
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > --- In bolger@y..., kwilson800@a... wrote:
      > > > > Why doesn't aluminum make a good bearing? The reason bare
      aluminum
      > > > > doesn't "rust" in normal use is that it forms a very thin
      coating
      > > > of
      > > > > aluminum oxide on the surface which inhibits further
      corrosion. In
      > > > a
      > > > > bearing application, this coating is continuously worn off and
      > > > > renewed. Well, guess what, the aluminuum oxide left inside
      the
      > > > > beaing is quite an effective abrasive. You could probably
      hardcoat
      > > > > anodize it, or "hardlube", which is hardcoat anodizing
      impregnated
      > > > > with teflon. There are also several proprietary processes to
      make
      > > > > aluminum into a decent bearing surface, "Nituff" is one of the
      > > > better-
      > > > > known ones, but by the time you've gone through all that
      trouble,
      > > > why
      > > > > not just use bronze or stainless steel in the first place?
      > > > >
      > > > > Keith Wilson
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
      > > > > > UHMW poly has a pretty low melting point. Wonder if I could
      cast
      > > > > > parts out of it?
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Also, why doesn't it work well with aluminum?
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Bolger rules!!!
      > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
      horses
      > > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
      you like
      > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
      > > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
      > > >
      > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
      http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      > > Message: 2
      > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 04:49:23 -0000
      > > From: raymcquin@y...
      > > Subject: Re: Sharpie Pounding
      > >
      > > Bryan,
      > >
      > > I've searched for info on Phil Theil with no luck. Can you
      provide
      > > any links to his designs?
      > >
      > > Thanks,
      > > Ray McQuin
      > >
      > > --- In bolger@y..., king@c... wrote:
      > > > My wife and I just spent a weekend on my Escargot, a bolger
      > > inspired
      > > > design by Phil Theil.
      > >
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      > > Message: 3
      > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 05:11:04 -0000
      > > From: dbaldnz@y...
      > > Subject: Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
      > >
      > > Glen, I am nearly through re-painting my Micro with latex. I
      sanded
      > > the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some
      parts of
      > > the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad. Then
      > > started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well, as
      > > the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
      > > about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1
      coat
      > > of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my
      > > random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
      > > primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly with "wet
      &
      > > dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied as
      firmly
      > > as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of the
      > > paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
      > > painting...never leave it on for longer.
      > > These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
      > > versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
      > > development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
      > > final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
      > > DonB
      > >
      > > --- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down
      to
      > > the
      > > > last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the
      painting
      > > > process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high
      > > quality
      > > > latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
      > > >
      > > > By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
      > > fiberglassed
      > > > with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
      > > >
      > > > Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling
      small
      > > > scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand
      off to
      > > fill
      > > > small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does
      the
      > > latex
      > > > paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than
      some
      > > of the
      > > > other finishes, like LPU, etc).
      > > >
      > > > Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
      > > painting
      > > > tips.
      > > >
      > > > Thanks
      > > >
      > > > Glen Gibson
      > >
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      > > Message: 4
      > > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:36:51 -0800
      > > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
      > > Subject: Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
      > >
      > > Use plastic screen and it probably won't scrape.
      > >
      > > HJ
      > >
      > > >
      > > > He has mentioned somewhere that WW I torpedo boats used a
      > > > window screen two or three inches in front of their glass
      > > > windscreens in order to reduce the likelihood of the glass being
      > > > shattered by wave action. Screen might work to reduce sharpie
      > > > slap. I have in mind a loose roll of plastic window screen big
      > > > enough in diameter to reach from the bow to an inch or two
      > > > underwater, and long enough to extend a little beyond the sides
      > > > of the boat and to make a place for light cord lashings to hold
      it
      > > > in place.
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > > > This may scrape the bottom paint a little, but what is a good
      > > > night's sleep worth to you?
      > > >
      > > > Vance
      > > >
      > > > Bolger rules!!!
      > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
      horses
      > > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
      you like
      > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
      Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
      > > >
      > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
      http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      > >
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      > > Message: 5
      > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:11:10 +0100 (BST)
      > > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
      > > Subject: An article to salivate over . . .
      > >
      > > Hi,
      > >
      > > Pleasant surprise this morning. Postman arrived with
      > > the new Water Craft mag.
      > >
      > > Big article (5 pages) on Micro by Peter de Boer, with
      > > mouth-watering pics of his gold-plater Micro. Not for
      > > him luan underlayment - Oh no! - Genuine Bruynzeel
      > > ply! Brass portholes, too. Fantastic finish with
      > > more than the usual amount of brightwork.
      > >
      > > I wonder if this is the first Bolger boat ever to be
      > > built out of Bruynzeel?
      > >
      > > Apart from the wonderful pics, there's a good honest
      > > appraisal of how she performs.
      > >
      > > A 'must' for Micro enthusiasts!
      > >
      > > Bill Samson
      > >
      > > ____________________________________________________________
      > > Do You Yahoo!?
      > > Get your free @... address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
      > > or your free @... address at http://mail.yahoo.ie
      > >
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      ______________________________________________________________________
      __
      > >
      > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
      http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      >
      > --
      > To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --Thomas
      Edison
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