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13805latex paints

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  • Richard
    Aug 21, 2001
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      Hi all,

      i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I have been reading some propaganda
      (advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i know that proper moisture content wood
      should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house paint is formulated to be porous? how
      do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good one for a boat. I am still trying to
      decide whether to glass or not, but i probably wont because i don't feel comfortable doing fiberglass
      work....

      not so short question huh?
      Richard

      bolger@yahoogroups.com wrote:

      > Bolger rules!!!
      > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
      > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
      > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      >
      > There are 5 messages in this issue.
      >
      > Topics in this digest:
      >
      > 1. RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
      > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
      > 2. Re: Sharpie Pounding
      > From: raymcquin@...
      > 3. Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
      > From: dbaldnz@...
      > 4. Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
      > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
      > 5. An article to salivate over . . .
      > From: William Samson <willsamson@...>
      >
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      >
      > Message: 1
      > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:55:54 -0500
      > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
      > Subject: RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
      >
      > Richard:
      >
      > I like the UHMW idea. You may remember that I used it for parrels on my
      > Caprice. Also for hatch glides. You can get extruded bushing stock from
      > McMaster-carr with 1-1/4" ID and various OD's.
      >
      > Chuck
      >
      > >
      > >
      > > Ah, that would make sense.
      > >
      > > Googling shows quite a few references to "uhmw bushings aluminum
      > > shaft"... Even a couple of marine ones.
      > >
      > > For the low load, slow speed application of rudder, centerboard, and
      > > tabernacle pivot, think I could get away with 1 1/8" aluminum
      > > shafting and uhmw poly bushings?
      > >
      > > I suspect the bushings and shafts would last quite a few years of
      > > normal trailer sailing use. I'd be sure to design the setup so it's
      > > easy to dissassemble for inspections and/or replacements.
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In bolger@y..., kwilson800@a... wrote:
      > > > Why doesn't aluminum make a good bearing? The reason bare aluminum
      > > > doesn't "rust" in normal use is that it forms a very thin coating
      > > of
      > > > aluminum oxide on the surface which inhibits further corrosion. In
      > > a
      > > > bearing application, this coating is continuously worn off and
      > > > renewed. Well, guess what, the aluminuum oxide left inside the
      > > > beaing is quite an effective abrasive. You could probably hardcoat
      > > > anodize it, or "hardlube", which is hardcoat anodizing impregnated
      > > > with teflon. There are also several proprietary processes to make
      > > > aluminum into a decent bearing surface, "Nituff" is one of the
      > > better-
      > > > known ones, but by the time you've gone through all that trouble,
      > > why
      > > > not just use bronze or stainless steel in the first place?
      > > >
      > > > Keith Wilson
      > > >
      > > > --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
      > > > > UHMW poly has a pretty low melting point. Wonder if I could cast
      > > > > parts out of it?
      > > > >
      > > > > Also, why doesn't it work well with aluminum?
      > >
      > >
      > > Bolger rules!!!
      > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
      > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
      > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
      > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      > >
      > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      >
      > Message: 2
      > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 04:49:23 -0000
      > From: raymcquin@...
      > Subject: Re: Sharpie Pounding
      >
      > Bryan,
      >
      > I've searched for info on Phil Theil with no luck. Can you provide
      > any links to his designs?
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Ray McQuin
      >
      > --- In bolger@y..., king@c... wrote:
      > > My wife and I just spent a weekend on my Escargot, a bolger
      > inspired
      > > design by Phil Theil.
      >
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      >
      > Message: 3
      > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 05:11:04 -0000
      > From: dbaldnz@...
      > Subject: Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
      >
      > Glen, I am nearly through re-painting my Micro with latex. I sanded
      > the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some parts of
      > the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad. Then
      > started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well, as
      > the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
      > about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1 coat
      > of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my
      > random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
      > primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly with "wet &
      > dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied as firmly
      > as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of the
      > paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
      > painting...never leave it on for longer.
      > These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
      > versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
      > development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
      > final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
      > DonB
      >
      > --- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
      > >
      > > I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down to
      > the
      > > last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the painting
      > > process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high
      > quality
      > > latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
      > >
      > > By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
      > fiberglassed
      > > with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
      > >
      > > Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling small
      > > scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand off to
      > fill
      > > small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does the
      > latex
      > > paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than some
      > of the
      > > other finishes, like LPU, etc).
      > >
      > > Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
      > painting
      > > tips.
      > >
      > > Thanks
      > >
      > > Glen Gibson
      >
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      >
      > Message: 4
      > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:36:51 -0800
      > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
      > Subject: Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
      >
      > Use plastic screen and it probably won't scrape.
      >
      > HJ
      >
      > >
      > > He has mentioned somewhere that WW I torpedo boats used a
      > > window screen two or three inches in front of their glass
      > > windscreens in order to reduce the likelihood of the glass being
      > > shattered by wave action. Screen might work to reduce sharpie
      > > slap. I have in mind a loose roll of plastic window screen big
      > > enough in diameter to reach from the bow to an inch or two
      > > underwater, and long enough to extend a little beyond the sides
      > > of the boat and to make a place for light cord lashings to hold it
      > > in place.
      > >
      >
      > >
      > > This may scrape the bottom paint a little, but what is a good
      > > night's sleep worth to you?
      > >
      > > Vance
      > >
      > > Bolger rules!!!
      > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
      > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
      > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
      > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      > >
      > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      >
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      >
      > Message: 5
      > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:11:10 +0100 (BST)
      > From: William Samson <willsamson@...>
      > Subject: An article to salivate over . . .
      >
      > Hi,
      >
      > Pleasant surprise this morning. Postman arrived with
      > the new Water Craft mag.
      >
      > Big article (5 pages) on Micro by Peter de Boer, with
      > mouth-watering pics of his gold-plater Micro. Not for
      > him luan underlayment - Oh no! - Genuine Bruynzeel
      > ply! Brass portholes, too. Fantastic finish with
      > more than the usual amount of brightwork.
      >
      > I wonder if this is the first Bolger boat ever to be
      > built out of Bruynzeel?
      >
      > Apart from the wonderful pics, there's a good honest
      > appraisal of how she performs.
      >
      > A 'must' for Micro enthusiasts!
      >
      > Bill Samson
      >
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      > ________________________________________________________________________
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      >
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