50197RE: Designs for small boats / big seas
- Nov 19, 2013
Martin, before you closed yours in with a cabin did you perform any voluntary or involuntary capsize or m.o.b tests? If so how went the recovery? How went the reboarding? Did the broader transom grant the stability and buoyancy to support you easily climbing back in?
---In email@example.com, <graeme19121984@...> wrote:
Martin, Moby Dick has a rather wide transom for the usual tombstone dory - does it drag? Do you think it would go better with more rocker - how about a 1" bite from the topside planks instead of the designed 2" to induce that? How did the sideplanks take the curve being bent around just the one central mold? How did their shape look from various viewpoints? Did you go with the designed rabbet in the stem. or substitute with sawn bevels and cover with a cap over stem and plywood edges? Did you go with designer William Jackson's sail rig, if so how was that? Did you leave the thwart out to get an unobstructed floor space for a sleep spot on the bottom?
---In firstname.lastname@example.org, <mtnridr13@...> wrote:Years ago I built a 15 ft plywood dory from plans in a magazine called "Moby Dick" I believe plans are available online. I made a sail rig for her & sailed her on the open sea out of Redondo Beach Ca. She handled it really well even off Palos Verdes Point. I later built a small cabin on her & lived on her in the marina for 8 months. I now have an AF3 that I believe is as seaworthy as the dory. It's not what the boat can take but what you can. Check out "Tinkerbell" a 10 ft sailing dingy that crossed the Atlalantic. A boat is just a boat, the sailor makes her seaworthy or not.
On Sunday, November 17, 2013 10:46 AM, "scotdomergue@..." <scotdomergue@...> wrote:
Thanks.Yes, the ocean rowing boats were one of the inspirations. I wanted a sea-worthy boat, and they go through hurricanes on a regular basis. But the Marsh Duck is MUCH smaller and lighter, not self-righting . . . and she sails somewhat like a racing dinghy in the right hands (another of my goals). Also, I normally row her about 4 knots in calm conditions which is far faster than I could move one of the ocean rowing boats!
---In email@example.com, <Helliconia54@...> wrote:Nice looking boat!Very similar in concept to the trans Atlantic rowing craft."There is magic in the feel of a paddle and the movement of a canoe, a magic compounded of distance, adventure, solitude, and peace."
On Sunday, 17 November 2013 3:18 AM, "scotdomergue@..." <scotdomergue@...> wrote:
I've been noticing this thread. Perhaps it's time to mention my Marsh Duck, which I designed to be adequate for "big seas" - in a very minimalist way, certainly NOT for power - rather sail and oars (sliding seat, sculling). I haven't yet had her out on the open ocean, but did spend three months cruising the Salish Sea, including out in the middle of the Strait of Georgia in 20 to 25 knot winds and white caps 4 feet high; also Johnston Straight in winds ranging from 20 to 35 knots (many hours running before the wind, sail reefed to under 25 sqft; a little beating into the same level of wind, but that's a real chore, not as fun).You can see lots about her at www.scotdomergueblog.wordpress.com. Plans/construction manual are available from Duckworks Magazine on-line. She's essentially a big, fully decked, sailing canoe with aft cabin, 18 feet long (not counting the rudder, hull beam is 42 inches, though as I built and use her there are "wings" (deck extensions) to 54 inches wide in the cockpit area for hiking out. Stitch and glue construction, 6 sheets of thin plywood (if you're very careful) with 6 oz fiberglass and epoxy both exterior and interior. She weighs under 200 lbs including all sailing and rowing gear and a small solar power system for electronics, 20W panel.Again, she's essentially a sailing canoe, narrow; a bit more stable than Howard Rice's Sylph or Hugh Horton's Bufflehead, I think, but still easy to capsize. If the hatches are adequately sealed, she goes over and comes back up easily, ready to sail, with little water in the boat. Definitely NOT for most, but she is capable of handling big seas in the right hands.Probably not the boat this thread is about, but she is a very small boat that is designed for island and coastal cruising and can handle big seas.Scot
---In firstname.lastname@example.org, <gregs12357@...> wrote:I'm on the lookout for next boat project. Looking to build something as small as possible ie < 15 ft but that can handle open seas - is this possible for a boat under 15 ft? A larger design might be best option e.g simmons sea skiff 18/20 ft or common dory (plenty of free designs on net for dory). Can anyone recommend a good design for bigger seas? Cheers
Date: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 8:24:35 AM GMT-0700
Subject: [boatdesign] RE: Core material?
The people who first suggested balsa tested it thoroughly. They did say that it needed to be kept dry, and I think they somewhat overstated how slowly rot would proceed across the grain.
In your place, I would investigate the various foams. You need a structural foam though, which could be pretty expensive.
---In email@example.com, <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
Hello, I'm a frugal boat builder, building a Wharram TIki 30. My plans call for either polyurethane foam or end grain balsa to be core material with 4mm facings of plywood. This is for the cabin tops and cockpit floor.
So whats the most frugal material besides balsa? And who supplies the stuff.
PS. I have to think the first guy to suggest using balsa on a boat was a crack addict:)
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