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Re: [beam] Re: BEAM Pummer Issues

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  • Harold Ilano
    hello again! I think I got the problem of your BEP pummer project. I referred to your posted image of your breadboard and found some errors in your jumper
    Message 1 of 38 , Jul 2, 2011
    hello again!

    I think I got the problem of your BEP pummer project. I referred to your posted image of your breadboard and found some errors in your jumper wirings. I've corrected it, so kindly see attached file and please do the necessary. Hope it will solve the problem. After it, double check everything before applying power to it. Goodluck and enjoy!

    Harold.

    On Sat, Jul 2, 2011 at 2:23 PM, Harold Ilano <harold.ilano@...> wrote:
    By the way, try to use normal set of wires...without those jumper wires with pins at the end. Yeah, try to use stripped-off wires as jumper wires. And yes, William Koepp has a point, try to make the bicore circuit first. Also, maybe the solar panel you're using does not have enough power to activate your circuit. If you have spares, try to wire them in parallel to increase its current.

    Harold.


    On Sat, Jul 2, 2011 at 2:16 PM, Harold Ilano <harold.ilano@...> wrote:
    Thanks! In the said circuit, you need to hook up the batteries as well, just like in the schematic. We only see the solar panel, but where's the batteries? There should be a 2 AAA rechargeable batteries wired in your breadboard. The rest of the wirings, well, let me check it further... we'll get back to you in a bit.

    Harold.

    On Sat, Jul 2, 2011 at 1:47 PM, UltrastarWannabe <cmoon_1998@...> wrote:
    Hi guys,

    ok, first things.

    Harold,
    I got the schematic from pretty much everywhere, but mostly used the costaricabeam site. I did get that tip of the capacitor from the article posted on makezine. and yes, I did check the polarities
    but thanks anyways

    David,
    a simple "submit a better picture" would have sufficed... terrible..
    my mistake, i posted the picture assuming people would understand the wiring, but it was a mess.
    of course I know everyone here is replying for the goodness of their hearts. I do not like to be in this position, but I am clearly stuck, and I cant figure out why.

    William,
    Again, sorry for the bad picture.
    I wish I understood ICs a little better.. I just followed the schematics as best as I can
    the 4.7M resistor was hooked to pins 2 and 17, and then moved it around to various places when I read somewhere about the pummer working when the change was made. (i think it was on makezine's comments)

    anyways,
    i got a new breadboard, and re-did everything, but it is still not working
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/63976986@N08/5892583997/sizes/l/in/photostream/

    This time, I wired differently so that it can be seen better.
    If you look at the picture:
    -top is positive, bottom is negative.
    -the diode (orange wires) is connected to 1 and 20, negative side facing 20
    -the 4.7M (green wires) resistor is hooked to pins 2 and 17
    -the .22uf caps are connected to pins 2-3 and 17-18 respectively
    -there is also a white wire connecting pins 1 and 19
    -the two red wires on 20 and 19 connect to the positive side
    -top, the yellow wires get pins 11, 13, 15, and 18 together
    -bottom, red wires get pins 3, 4, 6, and 8 together
    -top, white wires connect pins 12, 14, and 16 to the positive end of the 1000uf capacitor
    -bottom, green wires connect pins 5, 7, and 9 to the negative end of the LED
    - right side, that yellow wire connects the +end of the LED to the -end of the 1000uf cap. they are ten connected to the 1K resistor, which in turn connects to the positive energy source
    - the 100k is connected between + and - sources

    I hope that you can help me with this problem.
    I have fiddled around with the board so many times, with batteries and all.. I have run of places to look to make this thing work... I just dont want a bicore to beat me once again

    again, sorry for the previous bad picture...
    it was my bad assumption

    and thanks for your time!!!



    --- In beam@yahoogroups.com, William Koepp <william.koepp@...> wrote:
    >
    > Uh do to the mess and poor photos I can't really give specifics but it appears your "top" resitor is hooked to wrong pins, as well why is the lower right side out put wired that way? Knowing the chips circuit, doesn't that create an unneeded loop? I'm not to sure what your trying to accomplish. I would recommend going back to square 1 and start with a basic bicore plan, from there add to it to get what you want.
    >
    > William Koepp
    >




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  • arno_brosi
    Well,the good news is that your pummer is basically working so that means that your soldering is good. What I don t understand is what you mean by saying when
    Message 38 of 38 , Jul 4, 2011
      Well,the good news is that your pummer is basically working so that means that your soldering is good.
      What I don't understand is what you mean by saying "when I pull the batteries out"(the batteries need to stay connected).
      It seems that the problem lays with the battery/solarcell connection(bad solarcell?)So I guess you have to focus on that...

      regards,Arno

      --- In beam@yahoogroups.com, "UltrastarWannabe" <cmoon_1998@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hi guys,
      > sigh, I was hoping I wouldnt have to come back so soon with an issue
      >
      > anyways, the pummer was working fine on the breadboard.
      > I moved on to free forming the sucker, and once it was done -as it is normal- it didn't work.
      > I checked and triple checked all the connections, solderings, etc
      >
      > Now, I tried using the 'test' batteries to do the tests as usual. I placed the + & - on the batteries/capacitors. Nothing
      > I placed the 'test' batteries along the solar cell, and voila. It worked... but the pummer now only pums when I connect the 'test' batteries to it (contrary to the pummer turning on after i pull the batteries out)
      >
      > It is as if now I have a day pummer... sigh.
      >
      > Can someone please help? where in the blue hell did I go wrong? how can this "day pummer" be possible?
      >
      > Regards
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In beam@yahoogroups.com, Harold Ilano <harold.ilano@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Congratulations! Nice! Haha....and you're always welcome, Chung. We're
      > > always here to help as much as we can. As the matter of fact, the real
      > > secret to the ingredient was....you didn't lose hope and patience. Those
      > > were the keys my friend and glad you got it. [?] Ok, so....just enjoy and
      > > happy BEAMing! Please keep us posted anytime.
      > >
      > > Harold.
      > >
      > >
      > > On Sun, Jul 3, 2011 at 3:53 AM, UltrastarWannabe <cmoon_1998@>wrote:
      > >
      > > > **SUCCESS!!!**
      > > >
      > > > Thank you Harold! and thank you everyone who has been so kind in helping me
      > > > with this problem!
      > > >
      > > > thanks William,
      > > > for the link to the bicore freeform. the Beam scence on the internet has
      > > > changed quite a bit, so I thought that file was long gone.
      > > > I uncerstand the bicore chip a bit, the only think that I dont get is what
      > > > do the pins 1 and 19 do.
      > > >
      > > > Harold, you are a pummer god!
      > > > thank you so much for taking all this time, even going as far as posting a
      > > > picture. that is so kind and amazing of you.
      > > >
      > > > I finally did notice the problem, and that was where the positive side of
      > > > the solar cell was hooked on to. So i guess that is what william was
      > > > referring to when he was talking about a looping circuit.
      > > >
      > > > See, for the longest time I thought that the battery/capacitor would be
      > > > hooked directly to the solar cell via the + and - bases a la solar engine
      > > > style. so I never even thought about that being the problem.
      > > >
      > > > couple notes: I am still using the 1F capacitor instead of batteries (it
      > > > works just fine). the application that I am aiming for makes the batteries a
      > > > bit too large and heavy.
      > > > changed the 4.7M to a 5.5M resistor since i feel the pummer was pumming too
      > > > rapidly.
      > > > and switched the 100k resistor with a 220k because the 100k version was
      > > > turning on in my room even though its not that dark...
      > > >
      > > > Once again, thank you all for helping out this noob.
      > > > finally, I can move on with this project, and finally you've helped me
      > > > solve a 10+ year puzzle
      > > > I will update you with the final results of this project.
      > > >
      > > > from the bottom of my heart,
      > > >
      > > > Chung
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > --- In beam@yahoogroups.com, Harold Ilano <harold.ilano@> wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > Hi Arno!
      > > > >
      > > > > Oh yeah, sorry for that. Yes, the image I've uploaded in the BEAM group
      > > > is
      > > > > ok. However, you can scroll down the page a bit and below the image, you
      > > > > will see the image sizes you want: Medium, Large and Original. Just click
      > > > on
      > > > > Original to view the image larger. From there, you can see the corrected
      > > > > points.
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/beam/attachments/folder/232756267/item/1811651951/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
      > > > >
      > > > > Harold.
      > > > >
      > > > > On Sat, Jul 2, 2011 at 9:53 PM, arno_brosi <arnobrosi@> wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > > Hi,that link doesn't seem to work,this one does,but the picture is
      > > > small:
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/beam/attachments/folder/232756267/item/1811651951/view
      > > > > >
      > > > > > regards,Arno
      > > > > >
      > > > > > --- In beam@yahoogroups.com, "Harold" <harold.ilano@> wrote:
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > Ok, here's a link for the corrected wirings for BEP Pummer issues
      > > > (for
      > > > > > quick access). Thanks and good day to all!
      > > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/8MEOTmlY9UNuhTLEAN0OKqiIBx2t9FgLX0H7xOp0WOuUeHSD2jx1n1EMX-YKd4nCRoldNjTcAnurCOmXo_GPdYb7cHieYzZB/corrected_BEP_pummer_errors.JPG
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > Harold.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > --- In beam@yahoogroups.com, "Harold" <harold.ilano@> wrote:
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > hello again!
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > I think I got the problem of your BEP pummer project. I referred to
      > > > > > your posted image of your breadboard and found some errors in your
      > > > jumper
      > > > > > wirings. I've corrected it, so kindly see attached file and please do
      > > > the
      > > > > > necessary. Hope it will solve the problem. After it, double check
      > > > everything
      > > > > > before applying power to it. Goodluck and enjoy!
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Harold.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > --- In beam@yahoogroups.com, "UltrastarWannabe" <cmoon_1998@>
      > > > wrote:
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > Hi guys,
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > ok, first things.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > Harold,
      > > > > > > > > I got the schematic from pretty much everywhere, but mostly used
      > > > the
      > > > > > costaricabeam site. I did get that tip of the capacitor from the
      > > > article
      > > > > > posted on makezine. and yes, I did check the polarities
      > > > > > > > > but thanks anyways
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > David,
      > > > > > > > > a simple "submit a better picture" would have sufficed...
      > > > terrible..
      > > > > > > > > my mistake, i posted the picture assuming people would understand
      > > > the
      > > > > > wiring, but it was a mess.
      > > > > > > > > of course I know everyone here is replying for the goodness of
      > > > their
      > > > > > hearts. I do not like to be in this position, but I am clearly stuck,
      > > > and I
      > > > > > cant figure out why.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > William,
      > > > > > > > > Again, sorry for the bad picture.
      > > > > > > > > I wish I understood ICs a little better.. I just followed the
      > > > > > schematics as best as I can
      > > > > > > > > the 4.7M resistor was hooked to pins 2 and 17, and then moved it
      > > > > > around to various places when I read somewhere about the pummer working
      > > > when
      > > > > > the change was made. (i think it was on makezine's comments)
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > anyways,
      > > > > > > > > i got a new breadboard, and re-did everything, but it is still
      > > > not
      > > > > > working
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/63976986@N08/5892583997/sizes/l/in/photostream/
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > This time, I wired differently so that it can be seen better.
      > > > > > > > > If you look at the picture:
      > > > > > > > > -top is positive, bottom is negative.
      > > > > > > > > -the diode (orange wires) is connected to 1 and 20, negative side
      > > > > > facing 20
      > > > > > > > > -the 4.7M (green wires) resistor is hooked to pins 2 and 17
      > > > > > > > > -the .22uf caps are connected to pins 2-3 and 17-18 respectively
      > > > > > > > > -there is also a white wire connecting pins 1 and 19
      > > > > > > > > -the two red wires on 20 and 19 connect to the positive side
      > > > > > > > > -top, the yellow wires get pins 11, 13, 15, and 18 together
      > > > > > > > > -bottom, red wires get pins 3, 4, 6, and 8 together
      > > > > > > > > -top, white wires connect pins 12, 14, and 16 to the positive end
      > > > of
      > > > > > the 1000uf capacitor
      > > > > > > > > -bottom, green wires connect pins 5, 7, and 9 to the negative end
      > > > of
      > > > > > the LED
      > > > > > > > > - right side, that yellow wire connects the +end of the LED to
      > > > the
      > > > > > -end of the 1000uf cap. they are ten connected to the 1K resistor,
      > > > which in
      > > > > > turn connects to the positive energy source
      > > > > > > > > - the 100k is connected between + and - sources
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > I hope that you can help me with this problem.
      > > > > > > > > I have fiddled around with the board so many times, with
      > > > batteries
      > > > > > and all.. I have run of places to look to make this thing work... I
      > > > just
      > > > > > dont want a bicore to beat me once again
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > again, sorry for the previous bad picture...
      > > > > > > > > it was my bad assumption
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > and thanks for your time!!!
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > --- In beam@yahoogroups.com, William Koepp <william.koepp@>
      > > > wrote:
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > Uh do to the mess and poor photos I can't really give specifics
      > > > but
      > > > > > it appears your "top" resitor is hooked to wrong pins, as well why is
      > > > the
      > > > > > lower right side out put wired that way? Knowing the chips circuit,
      > > > doesn't
      > > > > > that create an unneeded loop? I'm not to sure what your trying to
      > > > > > accomplish. I would recommend going back to square 1 and start with a
      > > > basic
      > > > > > bicore plan, from there add to it to get what you want.
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > William Koepp
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > ------------------------------------
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      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > ------------------------------------
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      > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
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