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RE: [beachcats] Re: H18 Hulls

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  • Richard Stanley
    Tom, Those are the plates--i.e., the same plates used for the side stays. I was told it is the same part number. I emailed the pictures to Damon to post since
    Message 1 of 66 , Oct 1, 2004
      Tom,

      Those are the plates--i.e., the same plates used for the side stays. I
      was told it is the same part number.

      I emailed the pictures to Damon to post since I don't know how to post
      at beachcats.
      rick

      -----Original Message-----
      From: Thomas Hundley [mailto:thundley@...]
      Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 8:00 PM
      To: beachcats@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [beachcats] Re: H18 Hulls

      Rick,

      I emailed some pictures to you of the plates I have on my boat since
      I don't have webspace to put them on for all to see (maybe you can
      post them if you have webspace). If these are the plates you're
      talking about, I have them on both sides of the hulls at the forward
      crossmember and at the shrouds but not at the aft crossmember. I
      looked closely for vertical cracks which I saw none but will
      probably do a more thorough inspection this weekend. I will
      probably add the fiberglass also for peace of mind. Never worked
      with fiberglass before so I guess I will have to buy a book. I'm
      wondering if fiberglassing in a small thick piece of metal flat
      stock as a strengthening rail in this area would help?

      Tom


      --- In beachcats@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Stanley"
      <stanleyrb1@c...> wrote:
      > Tom,
      >
      > I assume the answer is yes since that seems to be the way it is
      done at
      > the factory. I stuck my arm in the port and it easily reaches
      > everywhere you need to add fiberglass. Looks like you'll have to
      place
      > the fiberglass by feel and it will probably be a messy job. Since
      I am
      > replacing my two ports with the screw-in type, I'll simply remove
      them
      > completely before I start the job. And I'll tape paper over the
      top of
      > the hulls to avoid dripping resin on the outside of the hulls. I
      also
      > plan to use epoxy resin rather than the fiberglass resin since it
      is
      > much stronger.
      >
      > Rick
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: Thomas Hundley [mailto:thundley@b...]
      > Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 5:38 PM
      > To: beachcats@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: [beachcats] Re: H18 Hulls
      >
      >
      > Richard,
      >
      > Can the adding of the fiberglass all be done from the inspection
      > ports?
      >
      > Tom
      >
      >
      > --- In beachcats@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Stanley"
      > <stanleyrb1@c...> wrote:
      > > I spoke to Murrays and then Matt Miller at Hobie Cat. Here's
      the
      > scoop.
      > > If you don't have under your front crossbeam the newer anchor
      > plates
      > > that also screw into the side of your hulls, you should add them
      > to both
      > > the inside and outside (4 total) under your front crossbar.
      They
      > cost
      > > $29.xx each at Murrays. (part 50-64100001)
      > >
      > > But before you add the anchor plates, it is also recommended to
      > > reinforce the inside of your hulls with fiberglass. Hobie
      > apparently
      > > did this with the newer hulls after they are molded. Matt
      > recommended
      > > at least two layers starting on the upper hull deck, starting
      > about 6
      > > inches from the lip, and then going down the side of the hull.
      He
      > > recommended that the width be about 6 inches beyond each side of
      > the
      > > indent in the hull. (I am thinking I might want to go a little
      > further
      > > toward the front of the hull, based on the pictures of the hull
      > failures
      > > I've seen. The indent is where the anchor plate fits under the
      > lip. He
      > > suggested at least two layers of fiberglass with at least the
      first
      > > layer being mesh, and the second layer being cloth, if you have
      > trouble
      > > working with the mesh.
      > >
      > > I know what I am doing this winter!!
      > > Rick Stanley
      > > H16 and H18m
      > >
      > > -----Original Message-----
      > > From: Thomas Hundley [mailto:thundley@b...]
      > > Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 10:55 AM
      > > To: beachcats@yahoogroups.com
      > > Subject: [beachcats] Re: H18 Hulls
      > >
      > > Richard,
      > >
      > > I know my shrouds have the plates but I'm not sure about the
      > > crossbeams. I will look when I get home this evening and then
      let
      > > you know. I would guess that if it is true that the 86, 87 and
      88
      > > boats are the ones that are primarily having the hull failures,
      > that
      > > my 88 probably does not have the plates at the crossbeams.
      Since
      > > this thread was originally started a few days ago, seems like
      more
      > > and more failures are coming out of the woodwork! I agree that
      we
      > > should ask Hobie about modifications (if any) that will reduce
      the
      > > chances of failure.
      > >
      > > Tom Hundley
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In beachcats@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Stanley"
      > > <stanleyrb1@c...> wrote:
      > > > Tom,
      > > >
      > > > I checked my H18 and it had a few (2 on one side and 3 on the
      > > other)
      > > > razor thin stress cracks about an eighth to quarter inch long
      > only
      > > in
      > > > the gel coat layer on the outside lips of the hulls just under
      > the
      > > front
      > > > cross beam. I only found one such stress crack related to the
      > rear
      > > cross
      > > > beam. I wonder if it is worth removing the front cross beam
      to
      > > see if
      > > > there is anything going on underneath the beam of concern.
      > > >
      > > > I also check for the newer design of stainless plates
      mentioned
      > by
      > > Mike
      > > > in his post.
      > > > "Later hobies have an added stainless plate shaped to
      > > > transfer the stresses into the side of the hull to protect the
      > > joint.
      > > > These plates can be retrofitted to the earlier boats. Note
      there
      > > are
      > > > supposed to be at least three per side...at each out side beam
      > > > connection and one at the shroud chainplate."
      > > >
      > > > My 1987 only has the plates that also screw into the side of
      the
      > > hulls
      > > > (4 screws in to the hulls) at the shrouds. Mike indicated
      that
      > > the new
      > > > plates were also used below the cross beams in later models.
      > Does
      > > your
      > > > 1988 have the newer plates below the cross beams? Anybody
      know
      > > what
      > > > year Hobie started using the newer plates below the cross
      bars?
      > > >
      > > > I think your idea about approaching Hobie is a good one. We
      > should
      > > > probably send a joint letter, with anyone else with an 18 whose
      > > > interested. But the question probably should be phrased as to
      > > inquire
      > > > what "improvements were made." It sounds like perhaps Hobie
      > added
      > > the
      > > > stronger chain plates at the crossbars, but I am skeptical
      about
      > > whether
      > > > that's the only difference. I am also wondering whether
      adding
      > an
      > > extra
      > > > layer or two of fiberglass on the inside of the hulls would
      > help.
      > > Any
      > > > ideas? I'd certainly prefer to be able to take preventative
      > > action.
      > > > What really concerns me is that everyone seems to indicate
      that
      > the
      > > > hulls have snapped with no prior warning. I'll be checking my
      > > hulls at
      > > > the front cross beam before every launch just like I double
      > check
      > > the
      > > > drain plugs!!
      > > > Richard Stanley
      > > > Hereford, MD H16 & H18m
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > -----Original Message-----
      > > > From: Thomas Hundley [mailto:thundley@b...]
      > > > Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 9:23 AM
      > > > To: beachcats@yahoogroups.com
      > > > Subject: [beachcats] Re: H18 Hulls
      > > >
      > > > Not a bad idea Mars! First thing I did when I got home from
      > work
      > > > yesterday was make a trip to where my boat is stored and do a
      > > > thorough inspection of the hulls. Found no cracks but can't
      say
      > I
      > > > won't be worrying about it when I'm in the middle of the Santa
      > > > Barbara Channel pounding through waves! Thought about
      emailing
      > > > Hobie inquiring about known manufacturing defects in the 18
      > during
      > > > 86, 87 and 88 but doubt if they would admit it.
      > > >
      > > > Tom
      > > >
      > > > --- In beachcats@yahoogroups.com, Mars DeLapp
      > <jmd.MailList@d...>
      > > > wrote:
      > > > > Mars DeLapp wrote:
      > > > > > On another subject, my H18 is a 1987. Maybe I should get
      one
      > > of
      > > > those inflatable life rafts, just in
      > > > > > case?
      > > > >
      > > > > Even better, inflatable kayaks, one stored in each hull,
      > rigged
      > > to
      > > > inflate upon hull failure.
      > > > >
      > > > > --
      > > > > Mars DeLapp
      > > > > H16, H18 without wings, Hobie Fleet 48
      > > > > Placitas NM
      > > > > http://www.HobieFleet48.org
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Group Home
      > > > http://www.TheBeachcats.com
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Group Home
      > > http://www.TheBeachcats.com
      > >
      > >
      > > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      > Group Home
      > http://www.TheBeachcats.com
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links



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    • Glenn Brown
      ... That s usually due to UV exposure while furled for long periods, and why roller-furled monoslug sails have blue leaches. --Glenn
      Message 66 of 66 , Oct 2, 2004
        > I had a hooter sail I stored on a furler in my cat
        > box. The threads on the leech of the sail broke and had to be
        > restiched. Do you think this was caused by being stored while furled?

        That's usually due to UV exposure while furled for long periods, and why
        roller-furled monoslug sails have blue leaches.

        --Glenn
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