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Re: [BYOR] Re: Bayfield 32C Fuel Tank Removal

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  • Lee Ann Carter
    We recently redid our battery system and moved them to where they are showing in the photos. I think the 110V outlet was/is standard and ours is also still
    Message 1 of 23 , Feb 1, 2007
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      We recently redid our battery system and moved them to where they are showing in the photos. I think the 110V outlet was/is standard and ours is also still located there. The only difference is Marc built (on Nolbert's suggestion and photos) a wooden box to hold the batteries so there is a bit of a barrier between them and the outlet. Do you think that is any safer?

      dale demyan <daleldemyan@...> wrote: George
      The pictures were a great help. Your boat looks just like mine, even where the battery is. One item of concern is the 110 V outlet. Plugging something in with battery gas next to it could be dangerous. My battery selector is where your outlet is.
      Dale

      George Hirsch <b32george@...> wrote:
      Hello Dale;

      I'm not sure I follow you... No, I have nothing under my engine (except a black tar pit). My 16" by 16" (approx) removable bilge access plate is about 14" forward of the that engine cross bar you mention. Perhaps mine is not located exactly where yours is???

      I have the camera with me, and plan to head down to the boat either today or tomorrow after work. I will post the photos promptly thereafter and let you know where to find them. In fact, while I am at the boat, I'll measure those cut-out access panels and include the correct dimensions, rather than my (lousy memory) estimates.

      Sorry if I have caused confusion. I was hoping to help some members realize that there is in fact more than one way to skin that poor proverbial cat. I sensed some fear in Jack's email and wanted to offer an alternative that worked well for me.

      Get back to you shortly...

      George

      ----- Original Message ----
      From: dale demyan <daleldemyan@...>
      To: bayfieldyachts@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:45:45 AM
      Subject: Re: [BYOR] Re: Bayfield 32C Fuel Tank Removal

      Thanks George. You stated another opening 8"X12" aft. Do you have decking (cabin sole) under your engine? I do not. Everything is open under the engine except for a forward cross bar.

      Dale

      George Hirsch <b32george@yahoo. ca> wrote:

      Hello Dale;

      A little hard to describe... hence the pictures I hope to get on here shortly.

      In brief, the tank does have to come back slightly, and turn onto a forward angle, but then it comes up. So, to picture the new orifice, you have to imagine the shape of the tank coming through your floor. There is a slot maybe 10" by 10" forward of the square bilge access hatch, and another that is maybe 8" wide by 12 or 14" long that is aft of the hatch. The tank gets narrower toward the rear, in front of the engine hatch.

      Don't get me wrong... it's still a tough job to lift it up. I took every drop of fuel out first to reduce the weight of the tank. But compared to cutting the tank into two parts in the bilge... that would have to be a really nasty job, too. Plus the tank is still in the original location as far as plumbing goes. I simply repaired the tank versus replacing it thereby simplifying the job quite a bit.

      Hope this helps

      George

      ----- Original Message ----

      From: dale demyan <daleldemyan@ yahoo.com>

      To: bayfieldyachts@ yahoogroups. com

      Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 7:57:30 AM

      Subject: Re: [BYOR] Re: Bayfield 32C Fuel Tank Removal

      George

      This is interesting. Its too late for me, but just what was cut. It has been a few years since I took my tank out, but as I remember the tank could be moved forward and was stopped by the forward bulkhead of the keel. I'm trying vision how cutting the cabin sole allowed the tank to be removed.

      Dale

      George Hirsch <b32george@yahoo. ca> wrote:

      Hello Jonathan;

      I sympathize with your fears. There IS another way, you know. My 1976 B32 does not have a teak and holly sole on the floor; just white fiberglass. When I bought the boat in 2003 it already had the bilge opening "notched out" to accommodate the removal of the tank. Someone had taken a jig saw (I presume) and done a nice job of cutting the fiberglass out so that the whole tank could be removed. Then it was screwed back in (countersunk) with hardwood 1 x 2's below the deck to support the traffic over it. It works fine.

      This idea is great if you have a white floor with a throw rug on it, and really useless if you have a beautiful teak and holly sole. If anyone is serious about it, I can photograph my floor and post the pictures. (Since removing tanks seems to be a hot topic once again).

      Take care

      George

      -

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    • dale demyan
      Lee Ann During charging of a battery hydrogen gas is expelled from the battery. The amount depends on how dead the battery is and the charge rate. Since this
      Message 2 of 23 , Feb 2, 2007
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        Lee Ann
        During charging of a battery hydrogen gas is expelled from the battery. The amount depends on how dead the battery is and the charge rate. Since this has never come up before and you stated the outlet is in a standard place then it must not be a problem. My battey box has several vent holes in the galley bulkhead and my 110V outlet is forward of the battery, about 3', under the starboard settee.
        Dale

        Lee Ann Carter <svnisus@...> wrote:
        We recently redid our battery system and moved them to where they are showing in the photos. I think the 110V outlet was/is standard and ours is also still located there. The only difference is Marc built (on Nolbert's suggestion and photos) a wooden box to hold the batteries so there is a bit of a barrier between them and the outlet. Do you think that is any safer?

        dale demyan <daleldemyan@...> wrote: George
        The pictures were a great help. Your boat looks just like mine, even where the battery is. One item of concern is the 110 V outlet. Plugging something in with battery gas next to it could be dangerous. My battery selector is where your outlet is.
        Dale

        George Hirsch <b32george@...> wrote:
        Hello Dale;

        I'm not sure I follow you... No, I have nothing under my engine (except a black tar pit). My 16" by 16" (approx) removable bilge access plate is about 14" forward of the that engine cross bar you mention. Perhaps mine is not located exactly where yours is???

        I have the camera with me, and plan to head down to the boat either today or tomorrow after work. I will post the photos promptly thereafter and let you know where to find them. In fact, while I am at the boat, I'll measure those cut-out access panels and include the correct dimensions, rather than my (lousy memory) estimates.

        Sorry if I have caused confusion. I was hoping to help some members realize that there is in fact more than one way to skin that poor proverbial cat. I sensed some fear in Jack's email and wanted to offer an alternative that worked well for me.

        Get back to you shortly...

        George

        ----- Original Message ----
        From: dale demyan <daleldemyan@...>
        To: bayfieldyachts@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:45:45 AM
        Subject: Re: [BYOR] Re: Bayfield 32C Fuel Tank Removal

        Thanks George. You stated another opening 8"X12" aft. Do you have decking (cabin sole) under your engine? I do not. Everything is open under the engine except for a forward cross bar.

        Dale

        George Hirsch <b32george@yahoo. ca> wrote:

        Hello Dale;

        A little hard to describe... hence the pictures I hope to get on here shortly.

        In brief, the tank does have to come back slightly, and turn onto a forward angle, but then it comes up. So, to picture the new orifice, you have to imagine the shape of the tank coming through your floor. There is a slot maybe 10" by 10" forward of the square bilge access hatch, and another that is maybe 8" wide by 12 or 14" long that is aft of the hatch. The tank gets narrower toward the rear, in front of the engine hatch.

        Don't get me wrong... it's still a tough job to lift it up. I took every drop of fuel out first to reduce the weight of the tank. But compared to cutting the tank into two parts in the bilge... that would have to be a really nasty job, too. Plus the tank is still in the original location as far as plumbing goes. I simply repaired the tank versus replacing it thereby simplifying the job quite a bit.

        Hope this helps

        George

        ----- Original Message ----

        From: dale demyan <daleldemyan@ yahoo.com>

        To: bayfieldyachts@ yahoogroups. com

        Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 7:57:30 AM

        Subject: Re: [BYOR] Re: Bayfield 32C Fuel Tank Removal

        George

        This is interesting. Its too late for me, but just what was cut. It has been a few years since I took my tank out, but as I remember the tank could be moved forward and was stopped by the forward bulkhead of the keel. I'm trying vision how cutting the cabin sole allowed the tank to be removed.

        Dale

        George Hirsch <b32george@yahoo. ca> wrote:

        Hello Jonathan;

        I sympathize with your fears. There IS another way, you know. My 1976 B32 does not have a teak and holly sole on the floor; just white fiberglass. When I bought the boat in 2003 it already had the bilge opening "notched out" to accommodate the removal of the tank. Someone had taken a jig saw (I presume) and done a nice job of cutting the fiberglass out so that the whole tank could be removed. Then it was screwed back in (countersunk) with hardwood 1 x 2's below the deck to support the traffic over it. It works fine.

        This idea is great if you have a white floor with a throw rug on it, and really useless if you have a beautiful teak and holly sole. If anyone is serious about it, I can photograph my floor and post the pictures. (Since removing tanks seems to be a hot topic once again).

        Take care

        George

        -

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        Lee Ann Carter
        "Oh, la dolce far niente!"

        ---------------------------------
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      • Lee Ann Carter
        Our new battery system is inside/under the starboard settee and while the finger pull for the cabinet is still there, we have yet to install anymore vents. I
        Message 3 of 23 , Feb 2, 2007
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          Our new battery system is inside/under the starboard settee and while the finger pull for the cabinet is still there, we have yet to install anymore vents. I believe Nolbert did but then said he didn't think it made that much of a difference. I understand what you are saying about it potentially becoming a problem but I guess I thinking since the gas rises and we don't use that outlet very often that it really wasn't an issue.

          dale demyan <daleldemyan@...> wrote: Lee Ann
          During charging of a battery hydrogen gas is expelled from the battery. The amount depends on how dead the battery is and the charge rate. Since this has never come up before and you stated the outlet is in a standard place then it must not be a problem. My battey box has several vent holes in the galley bulkhead and my 110V outlet is forward of the battery, about 3', under the starboard settee.
          Dale

          Lee Ann Carter <svnisus@...> wrote:
          We recently redid our battery system and moved them to where they are showing in the photos. I think the 110V outlet was/is standard and ours is also still located there. The only difference is Marc built (on Nolbert's suggestion and photos) a wooden box to hold the batteries so there is a bit of a barrier between them and the outlet. Do you think that is any safer?

          dale demyan <daleldemyan@...> wrote: George
          The pictures were a great help. Your boat looks just like mine, even where the battery is. One item of concern is the 110 V outlet. Plugging something in with battery gas next to it could be dangerous. My battery selector is where your outlet is.
          Dale

          George Hirsch <b32george@...> wrote:
          Hello Dale;

          I'm not sure I follow you... No, I have nothing under my engine (except a black tar pit). My 16" by 16" (approx) removable bilge access plate is about 14" forward of the that engine cross bar you mention. Perhaps mine is not located exactly where yours is???

          I have the camera with me, and plan to head down to the boat either today or tomorrow after work. I will post the photos promptly thereafter and let you know where to find them. In fact, while I am at the boat, I'll measure those cut-out access panels and include the correct dimensions, rather than my (lousy memory) estimates.

          Sorry if I have caused confusion. I was hoping to help some members realize that there is in fact more than one way to skin that poor proverbial cat. I sensed some fear in Jack's email and wanted to offer an alternative that worked well for me.

          Get back to you shortly...

          George

          ----- Original Message ----
          From: dale demyan <daleldemyan@...>
          To: bayfieldyachts@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:45:45 AM
          Subject: Re: [BYOR] Re: Bayfield 32C Fuel Tank Removal

          Thanks George. You stated another opening 8"X12" aft. Do you have decking (cabin sole) under your engine? I do not. Everything is open under the engine except for a forward cross bar.

          Dale

          George Hirsch <b32george@yahoo. ca> wrote:

          Hello Dale;

          A little hard to describe... hence the pictures I hope to get on here shortly.

          In brief, the tank does have to come back slightly, and turn onto a forward angle, but then it comes up. So, to picture the new orifice, you have to imagine the shape of the tank coming through your floor. There is a slot maybe 10" by 10" forward of the square bilge access hatch, and another that is maybe 8" wide by 12 or 14" long that is aft of the hatch. The tank gets narrower toward the rear, in front of the engine hatch.

          Don't get me wrong... it's still a tough job to lift it up. I took every drop of fuel out first to reduce the weight of the tank. But compared to cutting the tank into two parts in the bilge... that would have to be a really nasty job, too. Plus the tank is still in the original location as far as plumbing goes. I simply repaired the tank versus replacing it thereby simplifying the job quite a bit.

          Hope this helps

          George

          ----- Original Message ----

          From: dale demyan <daleldemyan@ yahoo.com>

          To: bayfieldyachts@ yahoogroups. com

          Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 7:57:30 AM

          Subject: Re: [BYOR] Re: Bayfield 32C Fuel Tank Removal

          George

          This is interesting. Its too late for me, but just what was cut. It has been a few years since I took my tank out, but as I remember the tank could be moved forward and was stopped by the forward bulkhead of the keel. I'm trying vision how cutting the cabin sole allowed the tank to be removed.

          Dale

          George Hirsch <b32george@yahoo. ca> wrote:

          Hello Jonathan;

          I sympathize with your fears. There IS another way, you know. My 1976 B32 does not have a teak and holly sole on the floor; just white fiberglass. When I bought the boat in 2003 it already had the bilge opening "notched out" to accommodate the removal of the tank. Someone had taken a jig saw (I presume) and done a nice job of cutting the fiberglass out so that the whole tank could be removed. Then it was screwed back in (countersunk) with hardwood 1 x 2's below the deck to support the traffic over it. It works fine.

          This idea is great if you have a white floor with a throw rug on it, and really useless if you have a beautiful teak and holly sole. If anyone is serious about it, I can photograph my floor and post the pictures. (Since removing tanks seems to be a hot topic once again).

          Take care

          George

          -

          __________________________________________________
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          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

          ---------------------------------
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          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

          Lee Ann Carter
          "Oh, la dolce far niente!"

          ---------------------------------
          Never Miss an Email
          Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started!

          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

          ---------------------------------
          Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
          Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.

          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






          Lee Ann Carter
          "Oh, la dolce far niente!"

          ---------------------------------
          TV dinner still cooling?
          Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.

          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Norbert
          In all the years I owned Verity I have used the 110v outlet which is located outside the s/b settee with my bank of 4 housebatteries right behind (under the
          Message 4 of 23 , Feb 2, 2007
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            In all the years I owned Verity I have used the 110v outlet which is
            located outside the s/b settee with my bank of 4 housebatteries right
            behind (under the settee, see pic) and it never became a cause for
            concern. That, in spite of having a heater and a coffee-maker plugged
            in as well as during the 8 hr equalizing charge which does give off a
            fair amount of gas. Mind you, during that time I ventilate well.
            Norbert, B-36 verity
            ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


            --- In bayfieldyachts@yahoogroups.com, Lee Ann Carter <svnisus@...>
            wrote:
            >
            > Our new battery system is inside/under the starboard settee and
            while the finger pull for the cabinet is still there, we have yet to
            install anymore vents. I believe Nolbert did but then said he didn't
            think it made that much of a difference. I understand what you are
            saying about it potentially becoming a problem but I guess I thinking
            since the gas rises and we don't use that outlet very often that it
            really wasn't an issue.
            >
            > dale demyan <daleldemyan@...> wrote: Lee Ann
            > During charging of a battery hydrogen gas is expelled from the
            battery. The amount depends on how dead the battery is and the charge
            rate. Since this has never come up before and you stated the outlet
            is in a standard place then it must not be a problem. My battey box
            has several vent holes in the galley bulkhead and my 110V outlet is
            forward of the battery, about 3', under the starboard settee.
            > Dale
            >
            > Lee Ann Carter <svnisus@...> wrote:
            > We recently redid our battery system and moved them to where they
            are showing in the photos. I think the 110V outlet was/is standard
            and ours is also still located there. The only difference is Marc
            built (on Nolbert's suggestion and photos) a wooden box to hold the
            batteries so there is a bit of a barrier between them and the outlet.
            Do you think that is any safer?
            >
            > dale demyan <daleldemyan@...> wrote: George
            > The pictures were a great help. Your boat looks just like mine,
            even where the battery is. One item of concern is the 110 V outlet.
            Plugging something in with battery gas next to it could be dangerous.
            My battery selector is where your outlet is.
            > Dale
            >
            > George Hirsch <b32george@...> wrote:
            > Hello Dale;
            >
            > I'm not sure I follow you... No, I have nothing under my engine
            (except a black tar pit). My 16" by 16" (approx) removable bilge
            access plate is about 14" forward of the that engine cross bar you
            mention. Perhaps mine is not located exactly where yours is???
            >
            > I have the camera with me, and plan to head down to the boat either
            today or tomorrow after work. I will post the photos promptly
            thereafter and let you know where to find them. In fact, while I am
            at the boat, I'll measure those cut-out access panels and include the
            correct dimensions, rather than my (lousy memory) estimates.
            >
            > Sorry if I have caused confusion. I was hoping to help some members
            realize that there is in fact more than one way to skin that poor
            proverbial cat. I sensed some fear in Jack's email and wanted to
            offer an alternative that worked well for me.
            >
            > Get back to you shortly...
            >
            > George
            >
            > ----- Original Message ----
            > From: dale demyan <daleldemyan@...>
            > To: bayfieldyachts@yahoogroups.com
            > Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:45:45 AM
            > Subject: Re: [BYOR] Re: Bayfield 32C Fuel Tank Removal
            >
            > Thanks George. You stated another opening 8"X12" aft. Do you have
            decking (cabin sole) under your engine? I do not. Everything is open
            under the engine except for a forward cross bar.
            >
            > Dale
            >
            > George Hirsch <b32george@yahoo. ca> wrote:
            >
            > Hello Dale;
            >
            > A little hard to describe... hence the pictures I hope to get on
            here shortly.
            >
            > In brief, the tank does have to come back slightly, and turn onto a
            forward angle, but then it comes up. So, to picture the new orifice,
            you have to imagine the shape of the tank coming through your floor.
            There is a slot maybe 10" by 10" forward of the square bilge access
            hatch, and another that is maybe 8" wide by 12 or 14" long that is
            aft of the hatch. The tank gets narrower toward the rear, in front of
            the engine hatch.
            >
            > Don't get me wrong... it's still a tough job to lift it up. I took
            every drop of fuel out first to reduce the weight of the tank. But
            compared to cutting the tank into two parts in the bilge... that
            would have to be a really nasty job, too. Plus the tank is still in
            the original location as far as plumbing goes. I simply repaired the
            tank versus replacing it thereby simplifying the job quite a bit.
            >
            > Hope this helps
            >
            > George
            >
            > ----- Original Message ----
            >
            > From: dale demyan <daleldemyan@ yahoo.com>
            >
            > To: bayfieldyachts@ yahoogroups. com
            >
            > Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 7:57:30 AM
            >
            > Subject: Re: [BYOR] Re: Bayfield 32C Fuel Tank Removal
            >
            > George
            >
            > This is interesting. Its too late for me, but just what was cut. It
            has been a few years since I took my tank out, but as I remember the
            tank could be moved forward and was stopped by the forward bulkhead
            of the keel. I'm trying vision how cutting the cabin sole allowed the
            tank to be removed.
            >
            > Dale
            >
            > George Hirsch <b32george@yahoo. ca> wrote:
            >
            > Hello Jonathan;
            >
            > I sympathize with your fears. There IS another way, you know. My
            1976 B32 does not have a teak and holly sole on the floor; just white
            fiberglass. When I bought the boat in 2003 it already had the bilge
            opening "notched out" to accommodate the removal of the tank. Someone
            had taken a jig saw (I presume) and done a nice job of cutting the
            fiberglass out so that the whole tank could be removed. Then it was
            screwed back in (countersunk) with hardwood 1 x 2's below the deck to
            support the traffic over it. It works fine.
            >
            > This idea is great if you have a white floor with a throw rug on
            it, and really useless if you have a beautiful teak and holly sole.
            If anyone is serious about it, I can photograph my floor and post the
            pictures. (Since removing tanks seems to be a hot topic once again).
            >
            > Take care
            >
            > George
            >
            > -
            >
            > __________________________________________________
            > Do You Yahoo!?
            > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
            > http://mail.yahoo.com
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
            > ---------------------------------
            > Any questions? Get answers on any topic at Yahoo! Answers. Try it
            now.
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
            > Lee Ann Carter
            > "Oh, la dolce far niente!"
            >
            > ---------------------------------
            > Never Miss an Email
            > Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started!
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
            > ---------------------------------
            > Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
            > Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Lee Ann Carter
            > "Oh, la dolce far niente!"
            >
            > ---------------------------------
            > TV dinner still cooling?
            > Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
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