Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [barrelponics] hey guys/gals-newbie here

Expand Messages
  • Anthony (Donanton)
    I redid the results last night and got the same result. Im using the api freshwater master test kit and being as it never actually matches the colors on the
    Message 1 of 9 , May 8, 2012
    View Source
    • 0 Attachment
      I redid the results last night and got the same result. Im using the
      "api freshwater master test kit" and being as it never actually matches
      the colors on the shade sheet, I'm taking as close a guess as i can.

      So i should replace some of the water with rain water to lower the ph?
      It's gonna be raining the next few days in jersey so there's so
      shortage. Would using distilled water have the same result?

      Thanks allot. I'll check those pages.

      On 5/8/2012 4:43 PM, Thomas Pate wrote:
      >
      >
      >
      > Hello Anthony,
      >
      > It can take 30 or more days for a system to cycle.
      >
      > Your ph is Ok for the fish but too high for plants and even though
      > it may drop some after your system has cycled it is likely to stay too
      > high for good plant growth, unless you consider a better source of
      > makeup water with a lower ph to start with, like rainwater.
      >
      > When your system has cycled the ammonia and nitrites should drop to OO
      > ppm. I am surprised with your few day old system you are already
      > showing nitrates at the level of 10-20, I have never seen that happen
      > that quick. You may have had a nitrate testing error, I would redo the
      > tests.
      >
      > For some good info, go to the groups file section and check out
      > Nitrogen Cycle, Starting Your System With No Fish, and Water Quality
      > Parameters.
      >
      > Tom Pate
      >
      >
      >
      > hey everyone, I'm anthony from nj and i just made my first aquaponics
      > setup from an old hydroponics set up. Ive got some newb questions
      > already.
      > the system is a few days old and has 2x1" goldfish in it. yet it has:
      > ph+ 8.2
      > ammonia 2.0ppm
      > nitrite .25ppm
      > nitrate 10-20ppm
      >
      > Will the ph drop by itself as the system matures? And will the amnonia
      > drop by itself as the system matures?
      >
      > thanks!
      >
      > UPDATE from the next day
      > i have one tomato plant in the hydroton and one of my goldfish is
      > wiggling on its side near the surface. could this be from the ammonia
      > or ph? the other one is hanging out by the bottom swimming in place.
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      >


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Jeffrey
      Any water without chlorine will work, but add it slowly. Fish take awhile to adjust to changes in ph. Doing a water change may save your fish, but you will
      Message 2 of 9 , May 13, 2012
      View Source
      • 0 Attachment
        Any water without chlorine will work, but add it slowly. Fish take awhile to adjust to changes in ph.

        Doing a water change may save your fish, but you will still need to let your system develop and stabilize.

        --- In barrelponics@yahoogroups.com, "Anthony (Donanton)" <donanton@...> wrote:
        >
        > I redid the results last night and got the same result. Im using the
        > "api freshwater master test kit" and being as it never actually matches
        > the colors on the shade sheet, I'm taking as close a guess as i can.
        >
        > So i should replace some of the water with rain water to lower the ph?
        > It's gonna be raining the next few days in jersey so there's so
        > shortage. Would using distilled water have the same result?
        >
        > Thanks allot. I'll check those pages.
        >
        > On 5/8/2012 4:43 PM, Thomas Pate wrote:
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Hello Anthony,
        > >
        > > It can take 30 or more days for a system to cycle.
        > >
        > > Your ph is Ok for the fish but too high for plants and even though
        > > it may drop some after your system has cycled it is likely to stay too
        > > high for good plant growth, unless you consider a better source of
        > > makeup water with a lower ph to start with, like rainwater.
        > >
        > > When your system has cycled the ammonia and nitrites should drop to OO
        > > ppm. I am surprised with your few day old system you are already
        > > showing nitrates at the level of 10-20, I have never seen that happen
        > > that quick. You may have had a nitrate testing error, I would redo the
        > > tests.
        > >
        > > For some good info, go to the groups file section and check out
        > > Nitrogen Cycle, Starting Your System With No Fish, and Water Quality
        > > Parameters.
        > >
        > > Tom Pate
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > hey everyone, I'm anthony from nj and i just made my first aquaponics
        > > setup from an old hydroponics set up. Ive got some newb questions
        > > already.
        > > the system is a few days old and has 2x1" goldfish in it. yet it has:
        > > ph+ 8.2
        > > ammonia 2.0ppm
        > > nitrite .25ppm
        > > nitrate 10-20ppm
        > >
        > > Will the ph drop by itself as the system matures? And will the amnonia
        > > drop by itself as the system matures?
        > >
        > > thanks!
        > >
        > > UPDATE from the next day
        > > i have one tomato plant in the hydroton and one of my goldfish is
        > > wiggling on its side near the surface. could this be from the ammonia
        > > or ph? the other one is hanging out by the bottom swimming in place.
        > >
        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > >
        > >
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
      • baz7160@yahoo.com
        ... CU! BAZ
        Message 3 of 9 , May 16, 2012
        View Source
        • 0 Attachment
          --- In barrelponics@yahoogroups.com, "Jeffrey" <ibuildparks@...> wrote:
          >
          > Welcome to the ranks of serial fish killing....
          >I'm rolling on the floor laughing! My home system is 2 years old and pretty well functional so I swaggered into school thinking the 2nd system would be a breeze. The water is 8.2 - 8.4 pH. Every time I try to correct it I kill more fish- scheeze! My students are looking at me like I'm a dolt. Sorry the newbies struggling but your reply made me feel a lot better!
          CU!
          BAZ
        • kevenwilstead
          I dont think its the ph affecting the gold fish, I ran my system at 8.2 and higher for 6 months before I figured out how to get the ph down. plants actually
          Message 4 of 9 , May 16, 2012
          View Source
          • 0 Attachment
            I dont think its the ph affecting the gold fish, I ran my system at 8.2 and higher for 6 months before I figured out how to get the ph down. plants actually grew very well but did show a lot of trace mineral deficiency's, never lost a fish, truthfully? only when the power went out on a hot summer day, lost about 50 ready to eat size.

            the ammonia is a little high but seems fine for a new ~not yet cycled system, and your nitrite and nitrate levels indicate nature is hard at work.

            idealy would want ammonia and nitrite close to 0, and nitrate above 50ppm at all times you are growing plants I try to keep my nitrate off the chart in the darkest shade of red, plants will almost grow before your eyes on a warm day, however this will really mess with tomato, you will see the end of a bloom cluster grow into a stem with leaves, and a stem will even sprout out of the middle of a mature leave, this creates havoc with pruning, training.

            I finally used a mixture of nitric, and phosphoric acids to get the ph down over about 4 to 6 days, then I noticed a whole different bacterial bloom, water was cloudy for a few weeks as the tank recycled with a new strain of bacteria, then the ph went down to about 6 on its own before I started adding calcium buffer to keep it at 7. since this forced ph adjustment 2 years ago ph has kept itself low and I have had to keep adding calcium, with the exception of winter when water can drop to the 50's the ph will shoot back up until water warms, at times after a cold winter I have had to help it with a small shot of acid.
            my well water ph is 8 to 8.2 year around. and the system as a whole uses 15 to 20 gallons a day, makeup water from evaporation.

            in my opinion a different strain of bacteria colonize the tank at a high ph and this strain does little to acidify the water, whereas if you force the ph down with the correct additives to encourage acid loving bacterial growth, they will them become the dominant bio organisms.

            do not use pool acid, this is chlorine based and will slow plant growth and kill off the bacterial cultures your trying to promote. never had any luck with sulfuric acid.
            others on this list have suggested citric and/or acetic acids.

            you have a good bit of learning too do, but very exciting times along the way.
            Keven
          Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.