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RE: [AZ] A few CreelWay Propagation updates

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  • Warren Groomes
    I can t remember where I read it, but somewhere I read that mushroom compost contains large quantities of limestone. It should be mixed with something acidic.
    Message 1 of 7 , Dec 5, 2012
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      I can't remember where I read it, but somewhere I read that mushroom compost contains large quantities of limestone.  It should be mixed with something acidic.  Judy Groomes Founding govenor
       

      To: azaleas@yahoogroups.com
      From: hgreer@...
      Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2012 21:31:29 -0800
      Subject: RE: [AZ] A few CreelWay Propagation updates

       
      One addition to the information Mike sent is that he says he is now
      using mushroom compost in his soil mix.

      My statement next is from observation in the Northwest and has no
      scientific basis, but I have seen mushroom compost badly burn
      rhododendrons. Now there might have been some other unknown factor in
      the problem as I don't know of it tested again, but I do know that the
      plants it was used on were badly burned . That is the information for
      what it is worth.

      Harold Greer

      -----Original Message-----
      From: azaleas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:azaleas@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
      Of bsperling
      Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 4:01 PM
      To: azaleas@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [AZ] A few CreelWay Propagation updates

      Hi Mike!
      Thanks for the updates on your methods.
      2 things:
      1) I don't see the side holes in your pictures, only the bottom
      ones.
      Are they small or nonexistent?
      2) I don't see how the water gets inside from rain or watering.
      The older method had the top section smaller than the lower one so that
      water fell into the periphery, but not here. How is it watered?
      Thanks,
      Barry

      Mike Creel wrote:
      > [Attachment(s) <#TopText> from Mike Creel included below]
      >
      > There is nothing official or patented about my unorthodox propagation
      > methods, but they were named CreelWay by a friend in Norway who has
      > had some success using them. A few folks other than me have tried
      > them successfully too. Creelway propagation methods and devices
      > require a leap of faith because they are outside the norm. My methods

      > are a continuing work in progress however and I do make improvements
      > from time to time.
      > Those few people who try my methods are invited to read on. For those

      > not interested, just delete the message and the three attached photos
      > of a simple new propagation device I made this week from a spring
      > water bottle. I love to make useful things from stuff people throw
      > away. I even save pieces of wire and string, hidden from my wife.
      > When I throw something useless away it always seems that I need it the
      next day.
      > My all purpose media mix for seedlings, rooting cuttings and repotting

      > (mostly native azaleas, but other woody shrubs and trees too) is now 5

      > parts of pine bark mini-nuggets, 1 part Fafard B or Baccto Pro and 1
      > part mushroom compost (new) well mixed with a large hand trowel. I
      > now drill 3/4 inch drain holes in the bottom of containers as well as
      > on the sides up to one inch below the media surface. I do not fully
      > fill pots for seeds, cuttings or plants, just halfway (half full) the
      > height for normal tall pots. I just started using a little slow
      > release fertilizer on the media surface once cuttings are rooted or
      > seedlings have true leaves, but not too late in the season.
      > A use a variety of different home made propagation devices, mostly
      > made from junk. A few years ago I experimented with making a pot and
      > humidity dome from a single clear bottle such as a large cylindrical
      > soft drink bottle, sun-tolerant large spring water bottles and
      > Hawaiian Punch bottles. I called them my X2 PropPot. They were fairly

      > successfull in rooting cuttings but some stayed too wet. This week I
      > made a few more X2 PropPots but carefully drilled additional drain
      > holes in the bottom section that holds media. Also I used a new style

      > of Deer Park Spring Water bottle.
      > One of the three attached photos shows the bottom and side-corner
      > drain holes, made with a 3/4 inch diameter cylinder type hole saw on
      > an electric hand drill. A second photo shows the two sections cut
      > from a single bottle to form a top humidity dome and a bottom pot for
      media.
      > Using scissors I cut a vertical roughly 1 1/2 inch slit in 7 places
      > along the bottom of the top dome section. These slits allow the top
      > to be firmly re-attached to the bottom, sliding over the bottom,
      > pretty much air and water tight. The third photo shows the completed
      > dome pot, watered, lid screwed on and cuttings stuck (Golden Flare in
      this pot).
      > I put this pot and several similar ones made from other types of clear

      > bottles under my 4 foot high 65-70 percent green Coolaroo shade cloth,

      > seated on a sloping slab of concrete that used to be a dog pen. I
      > recycled the dog pen for a shade bed. I water the pots once after
      > sticking cuttings and before affixing the dome top. Then I just water

      > over head once weekly if no rain.
      > I would happy to answer any questions and post additional photos. No
      > jokes or criticism please.
      > Mike Creel, SC USDA Zone 8a
      > Lexington, South Carolina
      >
      >

      ------------------------------------

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    • Mike Creel
      Some drain holes are in the bottom toward the middle the others are in the bottom corners, which I was calling the side.  I have rooted successfully in this
      Message 2 of 7 , Dec 5, 2012
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        Some drain holes are in the bottom toward the middle the others are in the bottom corners, which I was calling the side.  I have rooted successfully in this type of proppot before with just the bottom corner drain holes and the top was never lifted off until the cuttings were well rooted.  I did unscrew and remove (after mature leaves were fully expanded and hardened) the ventilation cap, leaving it off for 4 to 6 weeks.  Apparently sufficient moisture enters the media through the drain holes.  The pots are seated on a slightly sloping concrete pad.  Water from my sprinklers and rain must splash into the drain holes and wick through the media.
         
        Mike Creel, SC USDA Zone 8a
        Lexington, South Carolina
        From: bsperling <bsperling@...>
        To: azaleas@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2012 7:01 PM
        Subject: Re: [AZ] A few CreelWay Propagation updates

        Hi Mike!
            Thanks for the updates on your methods.
            2 things:
            1) I don't see the side holes in your pictures, only the bottom ones.
        Are they small or nonexistent?
            2) I don't see how the water gets inside from rain or watering.  The
        older method had the top section smaller than the lower one so that
        water fell into the periphery, but not here.  How is it watered?
            Thanks,
                Barry


        Mike Creel wrote:
        > [Attachment(s) <#TopText> from Mike Creel included below]
        >
        > There is nothing official or patented about my unorthodox propagation
        > methods, but they were named CreelWay by a friend in Norway who has had
        > some success using them.  A few folks other than me have tried them
        > successfully too.  Creelway propagation methods and devices require a
        > leap of faith because they are outside the norm.  My methods are a
        > continuing work in progress however and I do make improvements from time
        > to time.
        > Those few people who try my methods are invited to read on.  For those
        > not interested, just delete the message and the three attached photos of
        > a simple new propagation device I made this week from a spring water
        > bottle.  I love to make useful things from stuff people throw away.  I
        > even save pieces of wire and string, hidden from my wife.  When I throw
        > something useless away it always seems that I need it the next day.
        > My all purpose media mix for seedlings, rooting cuttings and repotting
        > (mostly native azaleas, but other woody shrubs and trees too) is now 5
        > parts of pine bark mini-nuggets, 1 part Fafard B or Baccto Pro and 1
        > part mushroom compost (new) well mixed with a large hand trowel.  I now
        > drill 3/4 inch drain holes in the bottom of containers as well as on the
        > sides up to one inch below the media surface.  I do not fully fill pots
        > for seeds, cuttings or plants, just halfway (half full) the height for
        > normal tall pots.  I just started using a little slow release fertilizer
        > on the media surface once cuttings are rooted or seedlings have true
        > leaves, but not too late in the season.
        > A use a variety of different home made propagation devices, mostly made
        > from junk.  A few years ago I experimented with making a pot and
        > humidity dome from a single clear bottle such as a large cylindrical
        > soft drink bottle, sun-tolerant large spring water bottles and Hawaiian
        > Punch bottles. I called them my X2 PropPot.  They were fairly
        > successfull in rooting cuttings but some stayed too wet.  This week I
        > made a few more X2 PropPots but carefully drilled additional drain holes
        > in the bottom section that holds media.  Also I used a new style of Deer
        > Park Spring Water bottle.
        > One of the three attached photos shows the bottom and side-corner drain
        > holes, made with a 3/4 inch diameter cylinder type hole saw on an
        > electric hand drill.  A second photo shows the two sections cut from a
        > single bottle to form a top humidity dome and a bottom pot for media.
        > Using scissors I cut a vertical roughly 1 1/2 inch slit in 7 places
        > along the bottom of the top dome section.  These slits allow the top to
        > be firmly re-attached to the bottom, sliding over the bottom, pretty
        > much air and water tight.  The third photo shows the completed dome pot,
        > watered, lid screwed on and cuttings stuck (Golden Flare in this pot).
        > I put this pot and several similar ones made from other types of clear
        > bottles under my 4 foot high 65-70 percent green Coolaroo shade cloth,
        > seated on a sloping slab of concrete that used to be a dog pen.  I
        > recycled the dog pen for a shade bed.  I water the pots once after
        > sticking cuttings and before affixing the dome top.  Then I just water
        > over head once weekly if no rain.
        > I would happy to answer any questions and post additional photos.  No
        > jokes or criticism please.
        > Mike Creel, SC USDA Zone 8a
        > Lexington, South Carolina
        >
        >


        ------------------------------------

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      • Mike Creel
        In my media mix there is much acidic materials, 5 parts pine bark mininuggets specifically.  One part of a fertilizer free bark based commercial media, such
        Message 3 of 7 , Dec 5, 2012
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          In my media mix there is much acidic materials, 5 parts pine bark mininuggets specifically.  One part of a fertilizer free bark based commercial media, such as Fafard 3 or Baccto Pro, which I use since it is available.  Just one part to half part of mushroom compost.  My media is used in my fast draining pots, most of which have numerous 3/4 inch circular drainage holes, made with a 3/4 inch cylindrical home saw bit in an electric drill.  I am trying to figure out how to slow the speed on my new drill press and use a jig for more efficient drilling of drain holes in pots.  I use thick walled plastic pots, not cold.  I warm the pots in cold weather by putting them in a large plastic bag in the sun or in my car.
           
          Mike Creel, SC USDA Zone 8a
          Lexington, South Carolina
          From: Warren Groomes <wgroomes@...>
          To: azaleas <azaleas@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2012 11:06 AM
          Subject: RE: [AZ] A few CreelWay Propagation updates
           
          I can't remember where I read it, but somewhere I read that mushroom compost contains large quantities of limestone.  It should be mixed with something acidic.  Judy Groomes Founding govenor  
          To: azaleas@yahoogroups.com From: hgreer@... Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2012 21:31:29 -0800 Subject: RE: [AZ] A few CreelWay Propagation updates 
          One addition to the information Mike sent is that he says he is now using mushroom compost in his soil mix. My statement next is from observation in the Northwest and has no scientific basis, but I have seen mushroom compost badly burn rhododendrons. Now there might have been some other unknown factor in the problem as I don't know of it tested again, but I do know that the plants it was used on were badly burned . That is the information for what it is worth. Harold Greer -----Original Message----- From: mailto:azaleas%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:mailto:azaleas%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of bsperling Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 4:01 PM To: mailto:azaleas%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [AZ] A few CreelWay Propagation updates Hi Mike! Thanks for the updates on your methods. 2 things: 1) I don't see the side holes in your pictures, only the bottom ones. Are they small or nonexistent? 2) I don't see how the water gets inside from rain or watering. The older method had the top section smaller than the lower one so that water fell into the periphery, but not here. How is it watered? Thanks, Barry Mike Creel wrote: > [Attachment(s) <#TopText> from Mike Creel included below] > > There is nothing official or patented about my unorthodox propagation > methods, but they were named CreelWay by a friend in Norway who has > had some success using them. A few folks other than me have tried > them successfully too. Creelway propagation methods and devices > require a leap of faith because they are outside the norm. My methods > are a continuing work in progress however and I do make improvements > from time to time. > Those few people who try my methods are invited to read on. For those > not interested, just delete the message and the three attached photos > of a simple new propagation device I made this week from a spring > water bottle. I love to make useful things from stuff people throw > away. I even save pieces of wire and string, hidden from my wife. > When I throw something useless away it always seems that I need it the next day. > My all purpose media mix for seedlings, rooting cuttings and repotting > (mostly native azaleas, but other woody shrubs and trees too) is now 5 > parts of pine bark mini-nuggets, 1 part Fafard B or Baccto Pro and 1 > part mushroom compost (new) well mixed with a large hand trowel. I > now drill 3/4 inch drain holes in the bottom of containers as well as > on the sides up to one inch below the media surface. I do not fully > fill pots for seeds, cuttings or plants, just halfway (half full) the > height for normal tall pots. I just started using a little slow > release fertilizer on the media surface once cuttings are rooted or > seedlings have true leaves, but not too late in the season. > A use a variety of different home made propagation devices, mostly > made from junk. A few years ago I experimented with making a pot and > humidity dome from a single clear bottle such as a large cylindrical > soft drink bottle, sun-tolerant large spring water bottles and > Hawaiian Punch bottles. I called them my X2 PropPot. They were fairly > successfull in rooting cuttings but some stayed too wet. This week I > made a few more X2 PropPots but carefully drilled additional drain > holes in the bottom section that holds media. Also I used a new style > of Deer Park Spring Water bottle. > One of the three attached photos shows the bottom and side-corner > drain holes, made with a 3/4 inch diameter cylinder type hole saw on > an electric hand drill. A second photo shows the two sections cut > from a single bottle to form a top humidity dome and a bottom pot for media. > Using scissors I cut a vertical roughly 1 1/2 inch slit in 7 places > along the bottom of the top dome section. These slits allow the top > to be firmly re-attached to the bottom, sliding over the bottom, > pretty much air and water tight. The third photo shows the completed > dome pot, watered, lid screwed on and cuttings stuck (Golden Flare in this pot). > I put this pot and several similar ones made from other types of clear > bottles under my 4 foot high 65-70 percent green Coolaroo shade cloth, > seated on a sloping slab of concrete that used to be a dog pen. I > recycled the dog pen for a shade bed. I water the pots once after > sticking cuttings and before affixing the dome top. Then I just water > over head once weekly if no rain. > I would happy to answer any questions and post additional photos. No > jokes or criticism please. > Mike Creel, SC USDA Zone 8a > Lexington, South Carolina > > ------------------------------------ When you reply to an email, PLEASE quote its relevant part(s) only, as context, and DELETE the rest - especially this line and the Yahoo lines. And PLEASE tell us your city, state and/or USDA zone. We welcome attached images RESIZED to be under 100KB in size - 640 x 480 pixel JPEG images at 50% or 1:40 compression are ideal. By attaching them you agree that, without giving up your rights to them, they may be shown on Azalea Society websites. To unsubscribe, send an email to: mailto:azaleas-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com Yahoo! Groups Links
        • Larry Wallace
          Mike Take the sheet metal cover off the top of your drill press. There will be a v-belt with at least three positions. To slow it you want a small diameter
          Message 4 of 7 , Dec 5, 2012
          • 0 Attachment
            Mike
            Take the sheet metal cover off the top of your drill press.  There will be a v-belt with at least three positions.  To slow it you want a small diameter pulley on the motor end and a large one on the drill end.


            --


            Larry Wallace
            Cincinnati


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