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Re: Recognizing deficiency

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  • Mark
    You will know that it is some mineral that can t be broken down easily and transported from old leaves to the new leaves. In such a case the older leaves will
    Message 1 of 5 , Jul 9, 2012
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      You will know that it is some mineral that can't be broken down easily and transported from old leaves to the new leaves. In such a case the older leaves will show to have the mineral deficiency. If the mineral is very 'mobile', it is taken from the old leaves and the new leaves will look perfectly fine until the deficiency becomes very extreme.

      It's quite a complex thing to actually nail down the mineral that's deficient.
      But I just googled this up if you are interested:
      http://5e.plantphys.net/article.php?ch=t&id=289

      As for keeping our plants healthy, the first question we ask is if the soil pH may be such that it makes proper mineral uptake problematic.
      Because if it is, fertilizing won't help and may do harm.
      Then one just adds some fertilizer and hopefully the mineral deficiency will go away.
      I think for azaleas iron deficiency is one of the common deficiencies besides the NPK ones.

      Good luck,

      Mark
    • William C. Miller III
      Hi Ken, I ll take a stab at this. I assume the plant is in the ground? Was it newly planted or is it well established? What is the deciduous plant --- some
      Message 2 of 5 , Jul 9, 2012
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        Hi Ken,

        I'll take a stab at this.

        I assume the plant is in the ground?  Was it newly planted or is it well established?  What is the deciduous plant --- some kind of native --- or an Exbury?   Is this the only plant in all of your plants that is showing this behavior?  Or, is it a general condition with most of  your plants?

        If your spring foliage didn't have this problem, I don't believe you can attribute the lack of green color on subsequent leaves on a nutritional deficiency.  This latest batch of leaves has just gone through high temperatures with minimal rain which is pretty stressful.  It may well be that chlorophyll production has been struggling and just needs a little time to catch up.  If my theory is correct, the problem will self-resolve.

        In the mean time, you might consider foliar feeding with your favorite water soluble fertilizer --- a really dilute solution --- just poured over the leaves.

        William C. Miller III
        Bethesda, Maryland
        www.theazaleaworks.com
        
        
        knmajer wrote:
         

        I realize this has probably been covered before, but I forgot. When you see just the new growth on a deciduous azalea light green or yellowish. The growth that was put on this Spring looks great, it's the additional growth being put on now. What is the problem and cure? Thanks!

        Ken Majer
        Cosby, TN zone 6b



      • Ken Majer
        Bill, The few are natives (bakeri, prunifolium & pinxter) in the ground 2 to 7 years at least 200 apart. Most of my plants are OK. Ken
        Message 3 of 5 , Jul 10, 2012
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          Bill,

           

          The few are natives (bakeri, prunifolium & pinxter) in the ground 2 to 7 years at least 200’ apart.  Most of my plants are OK.

           

          Ken

        • Larry Wallace
          Eastern North America is generally deficient in Magnesium. Magnesium affects iron uptake. One cup Epsom Salts per plant would be helpful with a little Iron
          Message 4 of 5 , Jul 10, 2012
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            Eastern North America is generally deficient in Magnesium.  Magnesium affects iron uptake.  One cup Epsom Salts per plant would be helpful with a little Iron Sufate (copperas).  Epsom Salts is MgSO4-7(H2O).  Being hydrated the amount of MG isn't so large.  The best price would be the pharmacy at Wallmart.

            I think the yellow new growth may be normal in some plants.  I have one with deep green leaves, looks very healthy, and has yelloiwish new growth.


            Larry Wallace
            Cincinnati


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