Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Atlas 10F lube chart.
- Be really careful. Typically gloves are taboo operating machines tools.
These might tear away if caught, but they might not.
Steve Haskell wrote:
> Regarding comments about keeping your hands clean, I wear nitrile
> gloves I purchase from "Horror Freight". I find the 5 mil gloves tear
> too easily and the 9 mil gloves last a long time, but the 7 mil
> thickness is best for me price and longevity wise. Beats getting my
> hands dirty or greasy.
> Steve Haskell
> stevesbunkbeds@... <mailto:stevesbunkbeds@...>
See my previous on the subject of viscosity. Atlas, later changed name to Clausing, has recommended SAE 20 for about the past 60+ years, not SAE 10.
The reason for not using high detergent motor oils has nothing to do with sumps or recirculation. HD oils are hygroscopic (they scavenge or absorb water.). This is either no problem or good in an IC engine running at temperatures around 170-180 deg. F as the water eventually goes out the tailpipe. But in environments with high relative humidity and relatively large temperature excursions, it causes rust on unpainted surfaces.
Robert Downs - Houston
wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
In a message dated 10/30/2014 11:43:00 AM Central Daylight Time, firstname.lastname@example.org writes:
FWIW I found SAE 10 oil on the shelf at Tractor Supply (see link below)
Looking at the design of the Atlas lathes, I don't see much that can go wrong related to oils. The worry over detergent oils, I honestly don't see it in relation to the common Atlas lathes. I hear people saying a detergent oil will cause deposits of old metal shavings to be recirculated into gears and bearings, but that doesn't make any sense at all considering the design of the Atlas lathes. I could see where that could happen with lathes that actually have a sump full of oil, but my TH42 doesn't have a sump for re-circulation, and I don't think other Atlas lathes do either (experts, chime in here and correct me if I'm wrong).
The nature of oil, I mean why we use oil instead of a grease is the "washing" property of soaking, but then running off. It cools, lubricates, and cleans all in one. Oil will take deposits of dust or fine metal shavings and flow such debris away from the working parts; again, that's why we use oil instead of grease. In places where we don't need that action of carrying debris away from the working parts, we often use grease.
My TH42 has Timkin bearings and an oil cup. The oil is wicked from the cup into the bearings and eventually runs out, there's no pooling going on, nor is there any place where oil is recirculated through the bearings. So the oil is essentially one use. Therefore you should be able to use most any off the shelf motor oil and be just fine.
If there wasn't a Tractor Supply close by with the SAE 10 readily available, or MSC Direct just up the road and I was in a pinch, then I'd just get something like a 5w-30 and call it good.
You have to remember, the manual recommends SAE 10 because there wasn't a great deal of oils to choose from when they first made the manual. As the years went by, they never bothered to change or upgrade the oil recommendation because SAE 10 did a great job. SAE 10 is thick and viscus and does a good job of lubricating and preserving. Furthermore a non-detergent oil recommendation is consistent with, and safe to use with most all machinery.
Any oil is better than no oil. I will always recommend what the manufacturer recommends, and if it's readily available then there's no reason not to. But if you're in a pinch and you have the choice of no oil, or using common motor oil, then use the common motor oil and don't lose any sleep.
Just my .02 on the matter.