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Re: Altas 10f Spindle Bearing fit >>>>> Finale

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  • c_h_a_r_t_n_y
    Old School way of bearing heat. Have 100W light bulb, base down. Put bearing on the bulb and light for 15 minutes. Handle with a glove. Heats the inner race
    Message 1 of 8 , Apr 24, 2013
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      Old School way of bearing heat.
      Have 100W light bulb, base down. Put bearing on the bulb and light for 15 minutes. Handle with a glove. Heats the inner race just about right for bearings~1" id and larger.

      Used often for install of "press on" bearings on rear axle of old style cars. Not pressed on but heated and rammed on with a section of pipe, washer to impart inpact to inner race, and appropriate size of iron pipe. End of axle on concrete block or anvil.

      Been there, done that!


      --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "jrw" <suncat33770@...> wrote:
      > Robert,
      > First thanks for the tip on heating the bearing. It slipped on almost 2/3 of the way before it cooled. Then use a block to tap it the reat of the way. I tighened the nust til I have all the the play out. I back off the nut a little and taped the sindle with a brass hammer til I felt a little play. Then I did the 2 tooth adj method you described. I did polish the spindle a little before all this.
      > the only thing I would have done differently is to make a delrin sleve to tap the bearing into place before I took the lathe apart:)
      > Almost ready to try threading!!!
      > Again thanks for the help and patience!!!!
      > Randy
      > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@ wrote:
      > >
      > > Randy,
      > >
      > > Yes, basically all that you wrote is correct. Except that the bearings
      > > aren't very similar to trailer wheel bearings. They are the same basic type as
      > > trailer wheel bearings, most automobile front wheel bearings, decent
      > > vehicle rear wheel bearings, etc. The whole family of bearings are called, as
      > > shown in any Atlas manual, tapered roller bearings. And just as with wheel
      > > bearings, you have to pre-load them to get zero end float.
      > >
      > > The bearing does have to move on the shaft to preload it. After that. it
      > > should not move on the shaft. So being locked in place by a light press fit
      > > doesn't hurt anything once you get it to the correct position.
      > >
      > > Read the preload instruction in the tech bulletin. Heat and install the
      > > bearing and run the collar up against the bearing finger snug and let it cool.
      > > Check and confirm that there is no end float. If there is, tighten the
      > > collar about half a tooth at a time until you get zero end float. Then
      > > tighten the collar two teeth. Confirm that the spindle turns freely. Tighten the
      > > set screw against the brass plug under it. Make lots of parts.
      > >
      > > In a message dated 04/21/2013 23:46:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
      > > suncat33770@ writes:
      > > > Robert,
      > > > First thanks for all the effort!!
      > > >
      > > > I think my bearing are called tapered, very similar to trailer wheel
      > > > bearings. I think the thread collar, used to adjust the preset, moves a gear
      > > > and a spacer that only applies pressure to the center race on the gear. I
      > > > think the inner race has to move on the spindle in order to load and unload
      > > > the preset. Just like you would adjust a trailer bearing after repacking.
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Maybe I am all wet:) But I really think the bearing has to move on the
      > > > shaft. That way you can adjust the distance between the two bearing, left and
      > > > right, to take up any movement??
      > > >
      > > > Make any sense???
      > > >
      > > > I may just heat it up, install it and see what happens:)
      > > >
      > > > Thanks again for all the help.............
      > > >
      > > > sleepy randy
      > > >
      > >
      > > Robert Downs - Houston
      > > wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
      > > MVPA 9480
      > >
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