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Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: 10F Oil Cups - Again

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  • wa5cab
    Jim, I would avoid the tall ones. Sooner or later you ll hit one of them with something and break it off. McMaster lists the one as for 5/16 hole but then
    Message 1 of 20 , Mar 8, 2013
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      Jim,

      I would avoid the tall ones.  Sooner or later you'll hit one of them with something and break it off.  McMaster lists the one as for 5/16" hole but then says that it is tapered and doesn't actually give the diameter on the bottom end.  I would personally probably buy the originals but the ones McMaster has are cheap enough that if they don't fit it isn't any great loss.  The wicks from Clausing wouldn't fit but you could buy a sheet of low density felt from a hobby store and with an arch punch eventually make two if the McMaster cups turn out to fit in the holes securely enough.

      The oil hole covers appear to be like the right-angle ones on the Atlas QCGB - oil goes straight through rather than being a slow supply.

      Robert D.

      In a message dated 03/08/2013 05:30:43 AM Central Standard Time, jflan@... writes:
      Yes, 5/16" appears to be the closest next larger size (0.3125").  I guess I could drill out the holes as I have the headstock completely dismantled including bearing races.

      I do notice that there are 'Oil Hole Covers' and 'Oil Cups'.  Different but similar.  The hole covers are just straight through tubes whereas the cups have a oil retention mechanism even if it also includes the wick.  The ones that came out of the lathe had a small drip hole at the bottom of the cup.  This drip hole plus the wick is what is desired.  I would believe that the oil hold cover could be adapted by pressing in a small brass washer into the bottom of the oil hole cover.  The true oil cups that I've looked at are physically tall and more expensive.  This is not a bad but good thing, unless you are intent on keeping the same 'look' of the headstock.

      -Jim

      --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@... wrote:
      >
      >McMaster lists 5/16" ones that might fit the holes.  But the reservoirs
      >look to be much smaller than the originals.  And they do not come with the felt
      >wicks.  Cheaper, though.
      >
      >In a message dated 03/07/2013 21:04:52 PM Central Standard Time,
      >terry.lund@... writes:
      >>On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 8:30 PM, Jim <jflan@...> wrote:
      >>>>  
      >>>I posted recently in regards to removing the oil cups in my 10F
      >>>headstock. Well, I got them out but damaged them in the process. No big deal,
      >>>right? Well, I'm having trouble finding an acceptable replacement. The
      >>>headstock hole size measured .303" and I haven't found anything that will directly
      >>>press in. Does anyone know of an acceptable replacement? Any suggestions?
      >>>
      >>>  >>Jim, Clausing can supply them  but the price for part #9-204 is $32.64
      >>each in stock. I believe I've read that they are available from McMaster Carr
      >>or the other suppliers.
      >> 
      >>--
      >>Terry


    • Jim
      5/16 definately will not press into my 0.301 hole opening, so I would drill it slightly under 0.312 and press in the 5/16 oil cover. We ll see... Thanks
      Message 2 of 20 , Mar 8, 2013
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        5/16" definately will not press into my 0.301" hole opening, so I would drill it slightly under 0.312 and press in the 5/16" oil cover. We'll see...
        Thanks for the help

        Jim


        >
        > Jim,
        >
        > I would avoid the tall ones. Sooner or later you'll hit one of them with
        > something and break it off. McMaster lists the one as for 5/16" hole but
        > then says that it is tapered and doesn't actually give the diameter on the
        > bottom end. I would personally probably buy the originals but the ones McMaster
        > has are cheap enough that if they don't fit it isn't any great loss. The
        > wicks from Clausing wouldn't fit but you could buy a sheet of low density
        > felt from a hobby store and with an arch punch eventually make two if the
        > McMaster cups turn out to fit in the holes securely enough.
        >
        > The oil hole covers appear to be like the right-angle ones on the Atlas
        > QCGB - oil goes straight through rather than being a slow supply.
        >
        > Robert D.
        >
        > In a message dated 03/08/2013 05:30:43 AM Central Standard Time,
        > jflan@... writes:
        > > Yes, 5/16" appears to be the closest next larger size (0.3125"). I guess
        > > I could drill out the holes as I have the headstock completely dismantled
        > > including bearing races.
        > >
        > > I do notice that there are 'Oil Hole Covers' and 'Oil Cups'. Different
        > > but similar. The hole covers are just straight through tubes whereas the
        > > cups have a oil retention mechanism even if it also includes the wick. The
        > > ones that came out of the lathe had a small drip hole at the bottom of the
        > > cup. This drip hole plus the wick is what is desired. I would believe that
        > > the oil hold cover could be adapted by pressing in a small brass washer
        > > into the bottom of the oil hole cover. The true oil cups that I've looked at
        > > are physically tall and more expensive. This is not a bad but good thing,
        > > unless you are intent on keeping the same 'look' of the headstock.
        > >
        > > -Jim
        > >
        > > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@ wrote:
        > > >
        > > >McMaster lists 5/16" ones that might fit the holes. But the reservoirs
        > > >look to be much smaller than the originals. And they do not come with
        > > the felt
        > > >wicks. Cheaper, though.
        > > >
        > > >In a message dated 03/07/2013 21:04:52 PM Central Standard Time,
        > > >terry.lund@ writes:
        > > >>On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 8:30 PM, Jim <jflan@> wrote:
        > > >>>>
        > > >>>I posted recently in regards to removing the oil cups in my 10F
        > > >>>headstock. Well, I got them out but damaged them in the process. No big
        > > deal,
        > > >>>right? Well, I'm having trouble finding an acceptable replacement. The
        > > >>>headstock hole size measured .303" and I haven't found anything that
        > > will directly
        > > >>>press in. Does anyone know of an acceptable replacement? Any
        > > suggestions?
        > > >>>
        > > >>> >>Jim, Clausing can supply them but the price for part #9-204 is
        > > $32.64
        > > >>each in stock. I believe I've read that they are available from McMaster
        > > Carr
        > > >>or the other suppliers.
        > > >>
        > > >>--
        > > >>Terry
        >
      • oldsrocket_88
        Make sure you clean out all the chips after you drill & deburr the hole also. Craftsman lathe owner since 1967, bought it at Sears at the age of 16 and have
        Message 3 of 20 , Mar 9, 2013
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          Make sure you clean out all the chips after you drill & deburr the hole also. Craftsman lathe owner since 1967, bought it at Sears at the age of 16 and have had it since, payed $325.00 for it then.











          --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <jflan@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          >
          > 5/16" definately will not press into my 0.301" hole opening, so I would drill it slightly under 0.312 and press in the 5/16" oil cover. We'll see...
          > Thanks for the help
          >
          > Jim
          >
          >
          > >
          > > Jim,
          > >
          > > I would avoid the tall ones. Sooner or later you'll hit one of them with
          > > something and break it off. McMaster lists the one as for 5/16" hole but
          > > then says that it is tapered and doesn't actually give the diameter on the
          > > bottom end. I would personally probably buy the originals but the ones McMaster
          > > has are cheap enough that if they don't fit it isn't any great loss. The
          > > wicks from Clausing wouldn't fit but you could buy a sheet of low density
          > > felt from a hobby store and with an arch punch eventually make two if the
          > > McMaster cups turn out to fit in the holes securely enough.
          > >
          > > The oil hole covers appear to be like the right-angle ones on the Atlas
          > > QCGB - oil goes straight through rather than being a slow supply.
          > >
          > > Robert D.
          > >
          > > In a message dated 03/08/2013 05:30:43 AM Central Standard Time,
          > > jflan@ writes:
          > > > Yes, 5/16" appears to be the closest next larger size (0.3125"). I guess
          > > > I could drill out the holes as I have the headstock completely dismantled
          > > > including bearing races.
          > > >
          > > > I do notice that there are 'Oil Hole Covers' and 'Oil Cups'. Different
          > > > but similar. The hole covers are just straight through tubes whereas the
          > > > cups have a oil retention mechanism even if it also includes the wick. The
          > > > ones that came out of the lathe had a small drip hole at the bottom of the
          > > > cup. This drip hole plus the wick is what is desired. I would believe that
          > > > the oil hold cover could be adapted by pressing in a small brass washer
          > > > into the bottom of the oil hole cover. The true oil cups that I've looked at
          > > > are physically tall and more expensive. This is not a bad but good thing,
          > > > unless you are intent on keeping the same 'look' of the headstock.
          > > >
          > > > -Jim
          > > >
          > > > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@ wrote:
          > > > >
          > > > >McMaster lists 5/16" ones that might fit the holes. But the reservoirs
          > > > >look to be much smaller than the originals. And they do not come with
          > > > the felt
          > > > >wicks. Cheaper, though.
          > > > >
          > > > >In a message dated 03/07/2013 21:04:52 PM Central Standard Time,
          > > > >terry.lund@ writes:
          > > > >>On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 8:30 PM, Jim <jflan@> wrote:
          > > > >>>>
          > > > >>>I posted recently in regards to removing the oil cups in my 10F
          > > > >>>headstock. Well, I got them out but damaged them in the process. No big
          > > > deal,
          > > > >>>right? Well, I'm having trouble finding an acceptable replacement. The
          > > > >>>headstock hole size measured .303" and I haven't found anything that
          > > > will directly
          > > > >>>press in. Does anyone know of an acceptable replacement? Any
          > > > suggestions?
          > > > >>>
          > > > >>> >>Jim, Clausing can supply them but the price for part #9-204 is
          > > > $32.64
          > > > >>each in stock. I believe I've read that they are available from McMaster
          > > > Carr
          > > > >>or the other suppliers.
          > > > >>
          > > > >>--
          > > > >>Terry
          > >
          >
        • oldstudentmsgt
          Dave, That is an old McMaster-Carr catalog page, not their pricelist. home-machine-shop.com is a hobby site, much like Yahoo s groups, not a seller of stuff. I
          Message 4 of 20 , Mar 9, 2013
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            Dave, That is an old McMaster-Carr catalog page, not their pricelist. home-machine-shop.com is a hobby site, much like Yahoo's groups, not a seller of stuff.

            I know that isn't much help, as I'm looking for some for my Atlas MF milling machine... :( I've not gone so far as to measure the holes, or the one I've got out (broken) already, since I couldn't afford them at the price on the old page, just now. Spent all my spare $$ on some diamond files this AM for some work on my chinese mini-lathe.

            Bill in OKC

            --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "Dave C" <davidcclements@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > This place is cheaper
            > http://www.home-machine-shop.com/Oil_Fittings_McMaster.pdf
            > Dave
            > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@> wrote:
            > >
            > > Terry
            > > Take a look at these maby you can make them work
            > > http://www.mcmaster.com/#oil-cups
            > >  GP
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > ________________________________
            > > From: Terry Lund <terry.lund@>
            > > To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
            > > Sent: Thu, March 7, 2013 10:04:53 PM
            > > Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] 10F Oil Cups - Again
            > >
            > >  
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 8:30 PM, Jim <jflan@> wrote:
            > >
            > >  
            > > >
            > > >I posted recently in regards to removing the oil cups in my 10F headstock. Well,
            > > >I got them out but damaged them in the process. No big deal, right? Well, I'm
            > > >having trouble finding an acceptable replacement. The headstock hole size
            > > >measured .303" and I haven't found anything that will directly press in. Does
            > > >anyone know of an acceptable replacement? Any suggestions?
            > > Jim, Clausing can supply them  but the price for part #9-204 is $32.64 each in
            > > stock. I believe I've read that they are available from McMaster Carr or the
            > > other suppliers.--
            > >
            > > Terry
            > > terry.lund@
            > >
            >
          • shuckersfan
            So how much wool felt are you guys putting in the cups? I ve got some 1/4 felt and the oil doesn t drain through it very fast at all.
            Message 5 of 20 , Mar 9, 2013
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              So how much wool felt are you guys putting in the cups? I've got some 1/4" felt and the oil doesn't drain through it very fast at all.

              --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "oldstudentmsgt" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
              >
              > Dave, That is an old McMaster-Carr catalog page, not their pricelist. home-machine-shop.com is a hobby site, much like Yahoo's groups, not a seller of stuff.
              >
              > I know that isn't much help, as I'm looking for some for my Atlas MF milling machine... :( I've not gone so far as to measure the holes, or the one I've got out (broken) already, since I couldn't afford them at the price on the old page, just now. Spent all my spare $$ on some diamond files this AM for some work on my chinese mini-lathe.
              >
              > Bill in OKC
              >
              > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "Dave C" <davidcclements@> wrote:
              > >
              > >
              > > This place is cheaper
              > > http://www.home-machine-shop.com/Oil_Fittings_McMaster.pdf
              > > Dave
              > > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > Terry
              > > > Take a look at these maby you can make them work
              > > > http://www.mcmaster.com/#oil-cups
              > > >  GP
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > ________________________________
              > > > From: Terry Lund <terry.lund@>
              > > > To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
              > > > Sent: Thu, March 7, 2013 10:04:53 PM
              > > > Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] 10F Oil Cups - Again
              > > >
              > > >  
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 8:30 PM, Jim <jflan@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > >  
              > > > >
              > > > >I posted recently in regards to removing the oil cups in my 10F headstock. Well,
              > > > >I got them out but damaged them in the process. No big deal, right? Well, I'm
              > > > >having trouble finding an acceptable replacement. The headstock hole size
              > > > >measured .303" and I haven't found anything that will directly press in. Does
              > > > >anyone know of an acceptable replacement? Any suggestions?
              > > > Jim, Clausing can supply them  but the price for part #9-204 is $32.64 each in
              > > > stock. I believe I've read that they are available from McMaster Carr or the
              > > > other suppliers.--
              > > >
              > > > Terry
              > > > terry.lund@
              > > >
              > >
              >
            • wa5cab
              The originals are about flush with the top of the cup. So two pieces of 1/4 would be about right. Robert D. In a message dated 03/09/2013 17:47:57 PM Central
              Message 6 of 20 , Mar 9, 2013
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                The originals are about flush with the top of the cup.  So two pieces of 1/4" would be about right. 

                Robert D.

                In a message dated 03/09/2013 17:47:57 PM Central Standard Time, shuckersfan@... writes:
                So how much wool felt are you guys putting in the cups?  I've got some 1/4" felt and the oil doesn't drain through it very fast at all.

                --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "oldstudentmsgt" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
                >
                >Dave, That is an old McMaster-Carr catalog page, not their pricelist. home-machine-shop.com is a hobby site, much like Yahoo's groups, not a seller of stuff.
                >
                >I know that isn't much help, as I'm looking for some for my Atlas MF milling machine... :( I've not gone so far as to measure the holes, or the one I've got out (broken) already, since I couldn't afford them at the price on the old page, just now. Spent all my spare $$ on some diamond files this AM for some work on my chinese mini-lathe.
                >
                >Bill in OKC


              • jtiers
                When I added way lube oil cups to my Logan carriage, I took some felt and teased it out to open it, tugging it apart until it was about the density of yarn.
                Message 7 of 20 , Mar 9, 2013
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                  The originals are about flush with the top of the cup.  So two pieces of 1/4" would be about right. 

                  Robert D.

                  In a message dated 03/09/2013 17:47:57 PM Central Standard Time, shuckersfan@... writes:
                  So how much wool felt are you guys putting in the cups?  I've got some 1/4" felt and the oil doesn't drain through it very fast at all.

                  --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "oldstudentmsgt" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
                  >
                  >Dave, That is an old McMaster-Carr catalog page, not their pricelist. home-machine-shop.com is a hobby site, much like Yahoo's groups, not a seller of stuff.
                  >
                  >I know that isn't much help, as I'm looking for some for my Atlas MF milling machine... :( I've not gone so far as to measure the holes, or the one I've got out (broken) already, since I couldn't afford them at the price on the old page, just now. Spent all my spare $$ on some diamond files this AM for some work on my chinese mini-lathe.
                  >
                  >Bill in OKC


                • jtiers
                  When I added way lube oil cups to my Logan carriage, I took some felt and teased it out to open it, tugging it apart until it was about the density of yarn.
                  Message 8 of 20 , Mar 9, 2013
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                    When I added way lube oil cups to my Logan carriage, I took some felt and "teased it out" to open it, tugging it apart until it was about the density of yarn.  Otherwise it will be almost an oil blockade.
                     
                    You do NOT want to fill up the cup with high density felt, IMO..... 
                     
                    What I wanted with the felt was not a flow regulator, but rather a 'filter" for swarf and so forth that might otherwise go down the hatch despite flip covers.
                     
                    If you need to regulat flow, you need a different type of cup, wher the middle has a pipe coming up, so it holds oil.  Then you put a wick down the pipe, dipping into the oil, which moves oil slowly from teh cup to the bearing by capillary action.
                     
                    JT
                    ----- Original Message -----
                    Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2013 5:55 PM
                    Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: 10F Oil Cups - Again



                    The originals are about flush with the top of the cup.  So two pieces of 1/4" would be about right. 

                    Robert D.

                    In a message dated 03/09/2013 17:47:57 PM Central Standard Time, shuckersfan@... writes:
                    So how much wool felt are you guys putting in the cups?  I've got some 1/4" felt and the oil doesn't drain through it very fast at all.

                  • wa5cab
                    No, you don t. As I wrote sometime last month, I bought some felt rod but when it arrived, it turned out to be almost solid. The correct density will be such
                    Message 9 of 20 , Mar 9, 2013
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                      No, you don't.  As I wrote sometime last month, I bought some felt rod but when it arrived, it turned out to be almost solid.  The correct density will be such that you can squeeze it almost flat with thumb and forefinger.

                      Robert D.

                      In a message dated 03/10/2013 00:03:04 AM Central Standard Time, jerdal@... writes:
                      When I added way lube oil cups to my Logan carriage, I took some felt and "teased it out" to open it, tugging it apart until it was about the density of yarn.  Otherwise it will be almost an oil blockade.

                       
                      You do NOT want to fill up the cup with high density felt, IMO..... 

                      What I wanted with the felt was not a flow regulator, but rather a 'filter" for swarf and so forth that might otherwise go down the hatch despite flip covers.
                       
                      If you need to regulat flow, you need a different type of cup, wher the middle has a pipe coming up, so it holds oil.  Then you put a wick down the pipe, dipping into the oil, which moves oil slowly from teh cup to the bearing by capillary action.
                       
                      JT

                      ----- Original Message -----
                      From: wa5cab@...
                      To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2013 5:55 PM
                      Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: 10F Oil Cups - Again




                      The originals are about flush with the top of the cup.  So two pieces of 1/4" would be about right. 

                      Robert D.

                      In a message dated 03/09/2013 17:47:57 PM Central Standard Time, shuckersfan@... writes:
                      So how much wool felt are you guys putting in the cups?  I've got some 1/4" felt and the oil doesn't drain through it very fast at all.





                      Robert & Susan Downs - Houston
                      wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                      MVPA 9480
                    • jtiers
                      If you can squeeze it nearly flat, it will be good for the oil cups. (But not for way wipers) If it is quite solid , it will be good for way wipers if of
                      Message 10 of 20 , Mar 10, 2013
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                        If you can squeeze it nearly flat, it will be good for the oil cups.  (But not for way wipers)
                         
                        If it is "quite solid", it will be good for way wipers if of correct shape.  (But not for oil cups, that is the "oil blockade" I mentioned.)
                         
                        Something in between is good for wicks.   The solid type may actually work, but a slightly looser type works a bit better.
                         
                        I used the solid type, because I had it from making wipers, which is why I had to separate it to a more "yarn-like" consistency.   If you already have the more open type, you won't need to do that.
                         
                        Obviously, you need to be able to actually get an appreciable amount of oil into the cup, and it needs to go from there to the bearing.  With very solid felt, it may take a substantial "head" of oil behind it to get any through.
                         
                        JT
                         
                         
                         
                        ----- Original Message -----
                        Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 12:27 AM
                        Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: 10F Oil Cups - Again



                        No, you don't.  As I wrote sometime last month, I bought some felt rod but when it arrived, it turned out to be almost solid.  The correct density will be such that you can squeeze it almost flat with thumb and forefinger.

                        Robert D.

                        In a message dated 03/10/2013 00:03:04 AM Central Standard Time, jerdal@... writes:
                        When I added way lube oil cups to my Logan carriage, I took some felt and "teased it out" to open it, tugging it apart until it was about the density of yarn.  Otherwise it will be almost an oil blockade.

                         
                        You do NOT want to fill up the cup with high density felt, IMO..... 

                        What I wanted with the felt was not a flow regulator, but rather a 'filter" for swarf and so forth that might otherwise go down the hatch despite flip covers.
                         
                        If you need to regulat flow, you need a different type of cup, wher the middle has a pipe coming up, so it holds oil.  Then you put a wick down the pipe, dipping into the oil, which moves oil slowly from teh cup to the bearing by capillary action.
                         
                        JT
                      • db45acp
                        There is a pair of original Gits oil cups for Atlas 10 & 12 inch lathes that showed up on eBay, Item Number 271169519925. (
                        Message 11 of 20 , Mar 10, 2013
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                          There is a pair of original Gits oil cups for Atlas 10 & 12 inch lathes that showed up on eBay, Item Number 271169519925.
                          ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-ATLAS-CRAFTSMAN-10-12-METAL-LATHE-OIL-CUPS-OILERS-GITS-9-204-/271169519925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f22f68135 )

                          Listed for $18.99 BUY IT NOW with $4.00 shipping.
                          I have no interest and no association with the seller.
                          -Dan

                          --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Terry Lund <terry.lund@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 8:30 PM, Jim <jflan@...> wrote:

                          > > I posted recently in regards to removing the oil cups in my 10F headstock.
                          > > Well, I got them out but damaged them in the process. No big deal, right?
                          > > Well, I'm having trouble finding an acceptable replacement. The headstock
                          > > hole size measured .303" and I haven't found anything that will directly
                          > > press in. Does anyone know of an acceptable replacement? Any suggestions?
                          > >
                          > Jim, Clausing can supply them but the price for part #9-204 is $32.64 each
                          > in stock. I believe I've read that they are available from McMaster Carr or
                          > the other suppliers.
                          > --
                          > Terry
                          > terry.lund@...
                          >
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