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Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman

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  • xlpilot
    Two cases I can think of, and I am sure there are more: One is winding a coil spring in either direction. Another is if you want to cut a thread without using
    Message 1 of 27 , Jul 2 6:23 PM
      Two cases I can think of, and I am sure there are more:

      One is winding a coil spring in either direction. Another is if you want to cut a thread without using the split nut (threading dial). In that case, you can back the tool bit away and reverse the travel back to the starting end.

      Bot are likely to be slow speed operations, with no danger of spinning the chuck off.

      --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "yaeffinhoo" <yaeffinhoo@...> wrote:
      >
      > So, I've heard over and over that you're not supposed to do cutting or other operations on the atlas/craftsman lathes in reverse because the threaded chuck might spin off. That's understandable, so I've been somewhat confused by the examples that I've seen with what appears to be an original equipment motor reversing switch....
      >
      > This might point out how much I don't know about lathe work, but what is the point of having the reversing switch if you can't work in reverse? On a slightly related note, Is there a fix or modification to keep the chuck in place? I have an idea or two along those lines but dont know how feasible it would be.
      >
      > Thanks
      > Scott
      >
    • yaeffinhoo
      The big answer, not all lathe operations involve a chuck. There are collets, and there are center-to-center techniques, both of which are usually preferred
      Message 2 of 27 , Jul 2 6:46 PM
        " The big answer, not all lathe operations involve a chuck. There are collets, and there are center-to-center techniques, both of which are usually preferred to a chuck for precision work."
        >

        Duh, I guess I should have known that intuitively! Long day and not enough experience.

        Next question, Is there any kind of practical or absolute hp max that I should think about while looking for a reversible direction motor? I've got a 2hp 3450 unit that I could use, but I'm afraid that especially after gearing it down to compensate for the rpm difference it would be way too much motor for the lathe...

        Thanks again
      • wa5cab@cs.com
        The machines in the 40 s often came with 1/3 HP motors. 1/2 HP is probably adequate. Anything over 3/4 HP is over kill. Remember that speed regulation is
        Message 3 of 27 , Jul 2 8:04 PM
          The machines in the 40's often came with 1/3 HP motors. 1/2 HP is probably
          adequate. Anything over 3/4 HP is over kill. Remember that speed
          regulation is not an important issue because all X, Y and Theta operations are
          driven from a common point. If one slows down, so do the other two and in exact
          proportion.

          The stock motor pulley is about as small a diameter as you would want to
          use for reasonable belt life. Your 2 HP 3450 RPM motor will output half the
          torque of a 2 HP 1750 RPM one. So "geared down" it would be the same as a 2
          HP 1750 RPM one, not a 4 HP one. But the small motor pulley would be
          undesirable and 2 HP is too large for the machine in any case. If you ever have a
          jam and something breaks, it will be whatever is at that time the hardest
          and most expensive to replace part on the machine (one of the many
          corollaries to Murphy's Law).

          Robert D

          In a message dated 07/02/2012 20:46:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
          yaeffinhoo@... writes:
          > " The big answer, not all lathe operations involve a chuck. There are
          > collets, and there are center-to-center techniques, both of which are usually
          > preferred to a chuck for precision work."
          > >
          >
          > Duh, I guess I should have known that intuitively! Long day and not
          > enough experience.
          >
          > Next question, Is there any kind of practical or absolute hp max that I
          > should think about while looking for a reversible direction motor? I've got
          > a 2hp 3450 unit that I could use, but I'm afraid that especially after
          > gearing it down to compensate for the rpm difference it would be way too much
          > motor for the lathe...
          >
          > Thanks again
          >

          Robert Downs - Houston
          wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
          MVPA 9480

          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Jon Elson
          ... You can t take heavy cuts in reverse. The alternating pressure around the spindle as it rotates will definitely loosen the chuck. But, when cutting
          Message 4 of 27 , Jul 2 8:43 PM
            yaeffinhoo wrote:
            > So, I've heard over and over that you're not supposed to do cutting or other operations on the atlas/craftsman lathes in reverse because the threaded chuck might spin off. That's understandable, so I've been somewhat confused by the examples that I've seen with what appears to be an original equipment motor reversing switch....
            >
            > This might point out how much I don't know about lathe work, but what is the point of having the reversing switch if you can't work in reverse? On a slightly related note, Is there a fix or modification to keep the chuck in place? I have an idea or two along those lines but dont know how feasible it would be.
            >
            You can't take heavy cuts in reverse. The alternating pressure around
            the spindle as
            it rotates will definitely loosen the chuck. But, when cutting oddball
            or metric threads,
            you have to back up the lathe without disengaging the threading half
            nuts, and the
            reverse is really useful for that. You need to loosen the belts,
            reverse the motor and
            then gently tighten the belt to avoid the starting jerk which could also
            loosen
            the chuck.

            Jon
          • Doc
            FWIW ..... dont use reverse w/ a screw chuck has been widely disemminated & provides an excuse for the lack of common sense in usage . ..bear
            Message 5 of 27 , Jul 2 8:53 PM
              FWIW ..... " dont use reverse w/ a screw chuck " has been widely disemminated & provides an excuse for the lack of common sense in usage .
              ..bear in mind that screw on chucks were in industrial use for well ove a century before any different chuck mounting appeared .....increased speeds needed for , again , industrial machining w/ carbides necessitated the developement ....in 50 + years of HSM usage , i have never had a chuck SPIN OFF in reverse ......reverse is handy for threading AWAY from a shoulder so that the thread goes all the way to the shoulder w/out the fear of a jam up , also in instances provides a better "look see" when internal threading ..reverse is used in tool post grinding ....SPINDLE reverse is not used for threading w/ out the thrd dial ...the CARRIAGE IS reversed.....
              bump the chuck up against the shoulder if you are just putting on the chuck ( by hand , NOT under power .)
              stay in first & second speeds
              be sensible abt depth of cut ...( threading & grinding are done w/ VERY lite forces..)...you can even EXPERIMENT at LOW speed to see how deep a cut can be taken before chuck starts to move...
              stay w/ high speed tooling in spindle reverse ( you shud 95 % of the time anyway , atlas /crftsmn were NOT designed for carbide.) for it is sharper & less force needed to make it cut ....
              keep your bits sharp & stone them

              if you are chucking w/ a center on the outboard end ( AND youu tighten all up ) how can the chuck come OFF??????

              re HP ...manual calls of 1/2 hp on my crftsmn 12x36 .commercial .... older crftsmn lathes used 1/3 or 1/2 for heavy duty
              .(..that is a TRUE 1/2 hp ,namely 6-7 amps )...w/ the belts tight i have taken a hundred thou depth of cut in steel w/ out stalling .....
              ..trying to thinik how excess hp HURTS ...i guess if your belts are tight & you run the carriage into the chuck ( w/ out a shear pin or a slip clutch) , there will be one h--- of a wreck since the xcess hp will refuse to stop !!!! one of the nice things abt belt feed os you can keep them a tad slack for safety in the event of stupidity ....in a hurry 50 yrs ago i ran down to the basement & cranked up a 6x18 ...didnt tuck my tie in ,,,,& the chuck grabbed it ......i was abt 2 inches away from the chuck when i pulled back enuf to slip the belt long enuf to shut down ........i have a pic somewhere where on a high speed gearhead ,there is nothing left above his neck ( that is recognizable ) on some careless guy that got a sleeve caught ..
              .two things i have learned ..NO rings NO long sleeves /hair / loose shirts
              also never hand crank a tractor till you hav e put it in neutral ( i have know better for 60 years , but got carelss ..i jumped clear & the front tire ran over my left toe ...there were belly cultivators on it & had it knocked me down , it wud have gutted me..it always took abt 8 turns to start ....& i wud have seen it try to lurch formard ..& taken it out of gear ,....this time it started on the first pull !!!!.....most catastrofic things require a combination of events to occur ....

              i guess you cud have some impossibly ignorant set up that wud stall a 1/2 hp mtr , but wud allow a 2hp to create wreck ???
              you might look at the amps & see how many it pulls ... plus/minus 12 amps / per hP is ususal .....today they rate mtrs w/ excessive HP
              why waste a true 2 hp mtr on an atlas crftsmn ?
              best wishes
              doc




              -----Original Message-----
              From: yaeffinhoo <yaeffinhoo@...>
              To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 8:46 pm
              Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman






              " The big answer, not all lathe operations involve a chuck. There are collets, and there are center-to-center techniques, both of which are usually preferred to a chuck for precision work."
              >

              Duh, I guess I should have known that intuitively! Long day and not enough experience.

              Next question, Is there any kind of practical or absolute hp max that I should think about while looking for a reversible direction motor? I've got a 2hp 3450 unit that I could use, but I'm afraid that especially after gearing it down to compensate for the rpm difference it would be way too much motor for the lathe...

              Thanks again







              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Doc
              ERROR ......spindle reverse IS used when threading w/ metric or w/ out the thrd dial on other than multiples of the lead screw pitch ......sorry
              Message 6 of 27 , Jul 2 9:00 PM
                ERROR ......spindle reverse IS used when threading w/ metric or w/ out the thrd dial on other than multiples of the lead screw pitch ......sorry ...aged brain making more mistakes daily
                doc



                -----Original Message-----
                From: Doc <n8as1@...>
                To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 10:54 pm
                Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman





                FWIW ..... " dont use reverse w/ a screw chuck " has been widely disemminated & provides an excuse for the lack of common sense in usage .
                ..bear in mind that screw on chucks were in industrial use for well ove a century before any different chuck mounting appeared .....increased speeds needed for , again , industrial machining w/ carbides necessitated the developement ....in 50 + years of HSM usage , i have never had a chuck SPIN OFF in reverse ......reverse is handy for threading AWAY from a shoulder so that the thread goes all the way to the shoulder w/out the fear of a jam up , also in instances provides a better "look see" when internal threading ..reverse is used in tool post grinding ....SPINDLE reverse is not used for threading w/ out the thrd dial ...the CARRIAGE IS reversed.....
                bump the chuck up against the shoulder if you are just putting on the chuck ( by hand , NOT under power .)
                stay in first & second speeds
                be sensible abt depth of cut ...( threading & grinding are done w/ VERY lite forces..)...you can even EXPERIMENT at LOW speed to see how deep a cut can be taken before chuck starts to move...
                stay w/ high speed tooling in spindle reverse ( you shud 95 % of the time anyway , atlas /crftsmn were NOT designed for carbide.) for it is sharper & less force needed to make it cut ....
                keep your bits sharp & stone them

                if you are chucking w/ a center on the outboard end ( AND youu tighten all up ) how can the chuck come OFF??????

                re HP ...manual calls of 1/2 hp on my crftsmn 12x36 .commercial .... older crftsmn lathes used 1/3 or 1/2 for heavy duty
                .(..that is a TRUE 1/2 hp ,namely 6-7 amps )...w/ the belts tight i have taken a hundred thou depth of cut in steel w/ out stalling .....
                ..trying to thinik how excess hp HURTS ...i guess if your belts are tight & you run the carriage into the chuck ( w/ out a shear pin or a slip clutch) , there will be one h--- of a wreck since the xcess hp will refuse to stop !!!! one of the nice things abt belt feed os you can keep them a tad slack for safety in the event of stupidity ....in a hurry 50 yrs ago i ran down to the basement & cranked up a 6x18 ...didnt tuck my tie in ,,,,& the chuck grabbed it ......i was abt 2 inches away from the chuck when i pulled back enuf to slip the belt long enuf to shut down ........i have a pic somewhere where on a high speed gearhead ,there is nothing left above his neck ( that is recognizable ) on some careless guy that got a sleeve caught ..
                .two things i have learned ..NO rings NO long sleeves /hair / loose shirts
                also never hand crank a tractor till you hav e put it in neutral ( i have know better for 60 years , but got carelss ..i jumped clear & the front tire ran over my left toe ...there were belly cultivators on it & had it knocked me down , it wud have gutted me..it always took abt 8 turns to start ....& i wud have seen it try to lurch formard ..& taken it out of gear ,....this time it started on the first pull !!!!.....most catastrofic things require a combination of events to occur ....

                i guess you cud have some impossibly ignorant set up that wud stall a 1/2 hp mtr , but wud allow a 2hp to create wreck ???
                you might look at the amps & see how many it pulls ... plus/minus 12 amps / per hP is ususal .....today they rate mtrs w/ excessive HP
                why waste a true 2 hp mtr on an atlas crftsmn ?
                best wishes
                doc

                -----Original Message-----
                From: yaeffinhoo <yaeffinhoo@...>
                To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 8:46 pm
                Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman

                " The big answer, not all lathe operations involve a chuck. There are collets, and there are center-to-center techniques, both of which are usually preferred to a chuck for precision work."
                >

                Duh, I guess I should have known that intuitively! Long day and not enough experience.

                Next question, Is there any kind of practical or absolute hp max that I should think about while looking for a reversible direction motor? I've got a 2hp 3450 unit that I could use, but I'm afraid that especially after gearing it down to compensate for the rpm difference it would be way too much motor for the lathe...

                Thanks again

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • jerdal@sbcglobal.net
                if the chuck is installed correctly, you should be fine reversing it without all the fol-de-rol of loosen. tighten, etc. Just put in reverse and start up....
                Message 7 of 27 , Jul 3 5:34 AM
                  if the chuck is installed correctly, you should be fine reversing it without
                  all the fol-de-rol of loosen. tighten, etc.

                  Just put in reverse and start up.... if it DOES come loose, stop and put it
                  right, 'cause you didn't the first time..

                  JT
                  ----- Original Message -----
                  From: "Jon Elson" <elson@...>
                  To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                  Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 10:43 PM
                  Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman
                  > you have to back up the lathe without disengaging the threading half
                  > nuts, and the
                  > reverse is really useful for that. You need to loosen the belts,
                  > reverse the motor and
                  > then gently tighten the belt to avoid the starting jerk which could also
                  > loosen
                  > the chuck.
                  >
                  > Jon
                • yaeffinhoo
                  Oof, information overload.... Thanks for all the help everybody. In a way you ve done me a favor. Since I don t have an adequate motor handy I ll probably
                  Message 8 of 27 , Jul 3 8:06 AM
                    Oof, information overload.... Thanks for all the help everybody. In a way you've done me a favor. Since I don't have an adequate motor handy I'll probably set this project aside for the time being and concentrate on things that I really need to get done instead :) For what its worth, the original 1/3 hp motor on it and it works just fine so I'll probably just keep my eye open for a 1/2 or 3/4 hp reversible motor (probably easier to find than a 1/3 hp anyway).

                    Musing on things a little more, I'm wondering if anybody has ever tried to make a locking mechanism for a threaded chuck to prevent the possibility of spin off. I can think of a couple ways to do it. Not sure if they'd be feasible or not and I wouldn't try it myself anyway. But it makes for a good mental exercise... The first idea comes straight from my reloading experience where the lock rings are held in place on the dies with a simple set screw that has a piece of lead shot underneath it to protect the threads and act like a brake. The second idea would be a bit more complex but would involve grinding a detent in the spindle and installing a matching detent ball in the chuck under a spring with a set screw to add/remove tension (resulting in something like a ratchet handle lock mechanism). To keep the lead/detent ball in place in either one, you'd need a stepped or conical hole in the chuck....

                    Like I said, not something I'd try without substantial need since I really don't want to drill and tap either of my chucks, but fun to think about anyway.

                    Thanks again for all the help guys.
                    Scott

                    --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Doc <n8as1@...> wrote:
                    >
                    >
                    > ERROR ......spindle reverse IS used when threading w/ metric or w/ out the thrd dial on other than multiples of the lead screw pitch ......sorry ...aged brain making more mistakes daily
                    > doc
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > -----Original Message-----
                    > From: Doc <n8as1@...>
                    > To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                    > Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 10:54 pm
                    > Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > FWIW ..... " dont use reverse w/ a screw chuck " has been widely disemminated & provides an excuse for the lack of common sense in usage .
                    > ..bear in mind that screw on chucks were in industrial use for well ove a century before any different chuck mounting appeared .....increased speeds needed for , again , industrial machining w/ carbides necessitated the developement ....in 50 + years of HSM usage , i have never had a chuck SPIN OFF in reverse ......reverse is handy for threading AWAY from a shoulder so that the thread goes all the way to the shoulder w/out the fear of a jam up , also in instances provides a better "look see" when internal threading ..reverse is used in tool post grinding ....SPINDLE reverse is not used for threading w/ out the thrd dial ...the CARRIAGE IS reversed.....
                    > bump the chuck up against the shoulder if you are just putting on the chuck ( by hand , NOT under power .)
                    > stay in first & second speeds
                    > be sensible abt depth of cut ...( threading & grinding are done w/ VERY lite forces..)...you can even EXPERIMENT at LOW speed to see how deep a cut can be taken before chuck starts to move...
                    > stay w/ high speed tooling in spindle reverse ( you shud 95 % of the time anyway , atlas /crftsmn were NOT designed for carbide.) for it is sharper & less force needed to make it cut ....
                    > keep your bits sharp & stone them
                    >
                    > if you are chucking w/ a center on the outboard end ( AND youu tighten all up ) how can the chuck come OFF??????
                    >
                    > re HP ...manual calls of 1/2 hp on my crftsmn 12x36 .commercial .... older crftsmn lathes used 1/3 or 1/2 for heavy duty
                    > .(..that is a TRUE 1/2 hp ,namely 6-7 amps )...w/ the belts tight i have taken a hundred thou depth of cut in steel w/ out stalling .....
                    > ..trying to thinik how excess hp HURTS ...i guess if your belts are tight & you run the carriage into the chuck ( w/ out a shear pin or a slip clutch) , there will be one h--- of a wreck since the xcess hp will refuse to stop !!!! one of the nice things abt belt feed os you can keep them a tad slack for safety in the event of stupidity ....in a hurry 50 yrs ago i ran down to the basement & cranked up a 6x18 ...didnt tuck my tie in ,,,,& the chuck grabbed it ......i was abt 2 inches away from the chuck when i pulled back enuf to slip the belt long enuf to shut down ........i have a pic somewhere where on a high speed gearhead ,there is nothing left above his neck ( that is recognizable ) on some careless guy that got a sleeve caught ..
                    > .two things i have learned ..NO rings NO long sleeves /hair / loose shirts
                    > also never hand crank a tractor till you hav e put it in neutral ( i have know better for 60 years , but got carelss ..i jumped clear & the front tire ran over my left toe ...there were belly cultivators on it & had it knocked me down , it wud have gutted me..it always took abt 8 turns to start ....& i wud have seen it try to lurch formard ..& taken it out of gear ,....this time it started on the first pull !!!!.....most catastrofic things require a combination of events to occur ....
                    >
                    > i guess you cud have some impossibly ignorant set up that wud stall a 1/2 hp mtr , but wud allow a 2hp to create wreck ???
                    > you might look at the amps & see how many it pulls ... plus/minus 12 amps / per hP is ususal .....today they rate mtrs w/ excessive HP
                    > why waste a true 2 hp mtr on an atlas crftsmn ?
                    > best wishes
                    > doc
                    >
                    > -----Original Message-----
                    > From: yaeffinhoo <yaeffinhoo@...>
                    > To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                    > Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 8:46 pm
                    > Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman
                    >
                    > " The big answer, not all lathe operations involve a chuck. There are collets, and there are center-to-center techniques, both of which are usually preferred to a chuck for precision work."
                    > >
                    >
                    > Duh, I guess I should have known that intuitively! Long day and not enough experience.
                    >
                    > Next question, Is there any kind of practical or absolute hp max that I should think about while looking for a reversible direction motor? I've got a 2hp 3450 unit that I could use, but I'm afraid that especially after gearing it down to compensate for the rpm difference it would be way too much motor for the lathe...
                    >
                    > Thanks again
                    >
                    > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    >
                  • Carvel Webb
                    Hi Scott , Firstly I have never had the chuck come loose on my Atlas , but reversing has been limited to slow speeds during Metric threading operations . The
                    Message 9 of 27 , Jul 3 8:35 AM
                      Hi Scott ,

                      Firstly I have never had the chuck come loose on my Atlas , but reversing
                      has been limited to slow speeds during Metric threading operations .

                      The way Emco / Maximat did it on the V10-P was to cut 4 thin slits in the
                      threaded portion of the back plate , which is then clamped with a concentric
                      ring - almost like a collet chuck ,

                      Regards,

                      Carvel

                      -----Original Message-----
                      From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
                      [mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of yaeffinhoo
                      Sent: 03 July 2012 05:07 PM
                      To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman

                      Oof, information overload.... Thanks for all the help everybody. In a way
                      you've done me a favor. Since I don't have an adequate motor handy I'll
                      probably set this project aside for the time being and concentrate on things
                      that I really need to get done instead :) For what its worth, the original
                      1/3 hp motor on it and it works just fine so I'll probably just keep my eye
                      open for a 1/2 or 3/4 hp reversible motor (probably easier to find than a
                      1/3 hp anyway).

                      Musing on things a little more, I'm wondering if anybody has ever tried to
                      make a locking mechanism for a threaded chuck to prevent the possibility of
                      spin off. I can think of a couple ways to do it. Not sure if they'd be
                      feasible or not and I wouldn't try it myself anyway. But it makes for a
                      good mental exercise... The first idea comes straight from my reloading
                      experience where the lock rings are held in place on the dies with a simple
                      set screw that has a piece of lead shot underneath it to protect the threads
                      and act like a brake. The second idea would be a bit more complex but would
                      involve grinding a detent in the spindle and installing a matching detent
                      ball in the chuck under a spring with a set screw to add/remove tension
                      (resulting in something like a ratchet handle lock mechanism). To keep the
                      lead/detent ball in place in either one, you'd need a stepped or conical
                      hole in the chuck....

                      Like I said, not something I'd try without substantial need since I really
                      don't want to drill and tap either of my chucks, but fun to think about
                      anyway.

                      Thanks again for all the help guys.
                      Scott

                      --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Doc <n8as1@...> wrote:
                      >
                      >
                      > ERROR ......spindle reverse IS used when threading w/ metric or
                      > w/ out the thrd dial on other than multiples of the lead screw
                      > pitch ......sorry ...aged brain making more mistakes daily doc
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > -----Original Message-----
                      > From: Doc <n8as1@...>
                      > To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                      > Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 10:54 pm
                      > Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on
                      > Atlas/Craftsman
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > FWIW ..... " dont use reverse w/ a screw chuck " has been widely
                      disemminated & provides an excuse for the lack of common sense in usage .
                      > ..bear in mind that screw on chucks were in industrial use for well ove a
                      century before any different chuck mounting appeared .....increased speeds
                      needed for , again , industrial machining w/ carbides necessitated the
                      developement ....in 50 + years of HSM usage , i have never had a chuck SPIN
                      OFF in reverse ......reverse is handy for threading AWAY from a shoulder so
                      that the thread goes all the way to the shoulder w/out the fear of a jam up
                      , also in instances provides a better "look see" when internal threading
                      ..reverse is used in tool post grinding ....SPINDLE reverse is not used for
                      threading w/ out the thrd dial ...the CARRIAGE IS reversed.....
                      > bump the chuck up against the shoulder if you are just putting on the
                      > chuck ( by hand , NOT under power .) stay in first & second speeds be
                      > sensible abt depth of cut ...( threading & grinding are done w/ VERY lite
                      forces..)...you can even EXPERIMENT at LOW speed to see how deep a cut can
                      be taken before chuck starts to move...
                      > stay w/ high speed tooling in spindle reverse ( you shud 95 % of the time
                      anyway , atlas /crftsmn were NOT designed for carbide.) for it is sharper &
                      less force needed to make it cut ....
                      > keep your bits sharp & stone them
                      >
                      > if you are chucking w/ a center on the outboard end ( AND youu tighten all
                      up ) how can the chuck come OFF??????
                      >
                      > re HP ...manual calls of 1/2 hp on my crftsmn 12x36 .commercial ....
                      > older crftsmn lathes used 1/3 or 1/2 for heavy duty .(..that is a TRUE 1/2
                      hp ,namely 6-7 amps )...w/ the belts tight i have taken a hundred thou depth
                      of cut in steel w/ out stalling .....
                      > ..trying to thinik how excess hp HURTS ...i guess if your belts are tight
                      & you run the carriage into the chuck ( w/ out a shear pin or a slip clutch)
                      , there will be one h--- of a wreck since the xcess hp will refuse to stop
                      !!!! one of the nice things abt belt feed os you can keep them a tad slack
                      for safety in the event of stupidity ....in a hurry 50 yrs ago i ran down to
                      the basement & cranked up a 6x18 ...didnt tuck my tie in ,,,,& the chuck
                      grabbed it ......i was abt 2 inches away from the chuck when i pulled back
                      enuf to slip the belt long enuf to shut down ........i have a pic somewhere
                      where on a high speed gearhead ,there is nothing left above his neck ( that
                      is recognizable ) on some careless guy that got a sleeve caught ..
                      > .two things i have learned ..NO rings NO long sleeves /hair / loose
                      > shirts also never hand crank a tractor till you hav e put it in neutral (
                      i have know better for 60 years , but got carelss ..i jumped clear & the
                      front tire ran over my left toe ...there were belly cultivators on it & had
                      it knocked me down , it wud have gutted me..it always took abt 8 turns to
                      start ....& i wud have seen it try to lurch formard ..& taken it out of gear
                      ,....this time it started on the first pull !!!!.....most catastrofic things
                      require a combination of events to occur ....
                      >
                      > i guess you cud have some impossibly ignorant set up that wud stall a 1/2
                      hp mtr , but wud allow a 2hp to create wreck ???
                      > you might look at the amps & see how many it pulls ... plus/minus 12
                      > amps / per hP is ususal .....today they rate mtrs w/ excessive HP why
                      waste a true 2 hp mtr on an atlas crftsmn ?
                      > best wishes
                      > doc
                      >
                      > -----Original Message-----
                      > From: yaeffinhoo <yaeffinhoo@...>
                      > To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                      > Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 8:46 pm
                      > Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman
                      >
                      > " The big answer, not all lathe operations involve a chuck. There are
                      collets, and there are center-to-center techniques, both of which are
                      usually preferred to a chuck for precision work."
                      > >
                      >
                      > Duh, I guess I should have known that intuitively! Long day and not enough
                      experience.
                      >
                      > Next question, Is there any kind of practical or absolute hp max that I
                      should think about while looking for a reversible direction motor? I've got
                      a 2hp 3450 unit that I could use, but I'm afraid that especially after
                      gearing it down to compensate for the rpm difference it would be way too
                      much motor for the lathe...
                      >
                      > Thanks again
                      >
                      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      >




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                    • inspiro_creo
                      Scott, Fwiw, if you re interested, I have a new old stock 1/2hp capacitar start GE electric motor. I paid $100 for it and since then aquired a Baldor motor
                      Message 10 of 27 , Jul 3 9:05 AM
                        Scott,

                        Fwiw, if you're interested, I have a new old stock 1/2hp capacitar start GE electric motor. I paid $100 for it and since then aquired a Baldor motor of the same specs.

                        --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "yaeffinhoo" <yaeffinhoo@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Oof, information overload.... Thanks for all the help everybody. In a way you've done me a favor. Since I don't have an adequate motor handy I'll probably set this project aside for the time being and concentrate on things that I really need to get done instead :) For what its worth, the original 1/3 hp motor on it and it works just fine so I'll probably just keep my eye open for a 1/2 or 3/4 hp reversible motor (probably easier to find than a 1/3 hp anyway).
                        >
                        > Musing on things a little more, I'm wondering if anybody has ever tried to make a locking mechanism for a threaded chuck to prevent the possibility of spin off. I can think of a couple ways to do it. Not sure if they'd be feasible or not and I wouldn't try it myself anyway. But it makes for a good mental exercise... The first idea comes straight from my reloading experience where the lock rings are held in place on the dies with a simple set screw that has a piece of lead shot underneath it to protect the threads and act like a brake. The second idea would be a bit more complex but would involve grinding a detent in the spindle and installing a matching detent ball in the chuck under a spring with a set screw to add/remove tension (resulting in something like a ratchet handle lock mechanism). To keep the lead/detent ball in place in either one, you'd need a stepped or conical hole in the chuck....
                        >
                        > Like I said, not something I'd try without substantial need since I really don't want to drill and tap either of my chucks, but fun to think about anyway.
                        >
                        > Thanks again for all the help guys.
                        > Scott
                        >
                        > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Doc <n8as1@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > ERROR ......spindle reverse IS used when threading w/ metric or w/ out the thrd dial on other than multiples of the lead screw pitch ......sorry ...aged brain making more mistakes daily
                        > > doc
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > -----Original Message-----
                        > > From: Doc <n8as1@>
                        > > To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                        > > Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 10:54 pm
                        > > Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > FWIW ..... " dont use reverse w/ a screw chuck " has been widely disemminated & provides an excuse for the lack of common sense in usage .
                        > > ..bear in mind that screw on chucks were in industrial use for well ove a century before any different chuck mounting appeared .....increased speeds needed for , again , industrial machining w/ carbides necessitated the developement ....in 50 + years of HSM usage , i have never had a chuck SPIN OFF in reverse ......reverse is handy for threading AWAY from a shoulder so that the thread goes all the way to the shoulder w/out the fear of a jam up , also in instances provides a better "look see" when internal threading ..reverse is used in tool post grinding ....SPINDLE reverse is not used for threading w/ out the thrd dial ...the CARRIAGE IS reversed.....
                        > > bump the chuck up against the shoulder if you are just putting on the chuck ( by hand , NOT under power .)
                        > > stay in first & second speeds
                        > > be sensible abt depth of cut ...( threading & grinding are done w/ VERY lite forces..)...you can even EXPERIMENT at LOW speed to see how deep a cut can be taken before chuck starts to move...
                        > > stay w/ high speed tooling in spindle reverse ( you shud 95 % of the time anyway , atlas /crftsmn were NOT designed for carbide.) for it is sharper & less force needed to make it cut ....
                        > > keep your bits sharp & stone them
                        > >
                        > > if you are chucking w/ a center on the outboard end ( AND youu tighten all up ) how can the chuck come OFF??????
                        > >
                        > > re HP ...manual calls of 1/2 hp on my crftsmn 12x36 .commercial .... older crftsmn lathes used 1/3 or 1/2 for heavy duty
                        > > .(..that is a TRUE 1/2 hp ,namely 6-7 amps )...w/ the belts tight i have taken a hundred thou depth of cut in steel w/ out stalling .....
                        > > ..trying to thinik how excess hp HURTS ...i guess if your belts are tight & you run the carriage into the chuck ( w/ out a shear pin or a slip clutch) , there will be one h--- of a wreck since the xcess hp will refuse to stop !!!! one of the nice things abt belt feed os you can keep them a tad slack for safety in the event of stupidity ....in a hurry 50 yrs ago i ran down to the basement & cranked up a 6x18 ...didnt tuck my tie in ,,,,& the chuck grabbed it ......i was abt 2 inches away from the chuck when i pulled back enuf to slip the belt long enuf to shut down ........i have a pic somewhere where on a high speed gearhead ,there is nothing left above his neck ( that is recognizable ) on some careless guy that got a sleeve caught ..
                        > > .two things i have learned ..NO rings NO long sleeves /hair / loose shirts
                        > > also never hand crank a tractor till you hav e put it in neutral ( i have know better for 60 years , but got carelss ..i jumped clear & the front tire ran over my left toe ...there were belly cultivators on it & had it knocked me down , it wud have gutted me..it always took abt 8 turns to start ....& i wud have seen it try to lurch formard ..& taken it out of gear ,....this time it started on the first pull !!!!.....most catastrofic things require a combination of events to occur ....
                        > >
                        > > i guess you cud have some impossibly ignorant set up that wud stall a 1/2 hp mtr , but wud allow a 2hp to create wreck ???
                        > > you might look at the amps & see how many it pulls ... plus/minus 12 amps / per hP is ususal .....today they rate mtrs w/ excessive HP
                        > > why waste a true 2 hp mtr on an atlas crftsmn ?
                        > > best wishes
                        > > doc
                        > >
                        > > -----Original Message-----
                        > > From: yaeffinhoo <yaeffinhoo@>
                        > > To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                        > > Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 8:46 pm
                        > > Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman
                        > >
                        > > " The big answer, not all lathe operations involve a chuck. There are collets, and there are center-to-center techniques, both of which are usually preferred to a chuck for precision work."
                        > > >
                        > >
                        > > Duh, I guess I should have known that intuitively! Long day and not enough experience.
                        > >
                        > > Next question, Is there any kind of practical or absolute hp max that I should think about while looking for a reversible direction motor? I've got a 2hp 3450 unit that I could use, but I'm afraid that especially after gearing it down to compensate for the rpm difference it would be way too much motor for the lathe...
                        > >
                        > > Thanks again
                        > >
                        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        > >
                        >
                      • dws
                        ... I have a 9 SB which the prior owner put a 1HP motor on. It works fine, but...there is no way I can use the power. No way at all. The first thing to go is
                        Message 11 of 27 , Jul 3 9:05 AM
                          > For what its worth, the original 1/3 hp motor on it and it works just >fine so I'll probably just keep my eye open for a 1/2 or 3/4 hp >reversible motor (probably easier to find than a 1/3 hp anyway).

                          I have a 9" SB which the prior owner put a 1HP motor on. It works fine, but...there is no way I can use the power. No way at all.

                          The first thing to go is belt torque transmission. They just can't hold much harder than what you can get out of 1/3 HP (that's where mine limits power). But if you fixed that, you encounter the bigger problem yet. The machine is not rigid enough for significantly increased torque.

                          If you were to put a 1HP motor, with chain drive, onto an 10" Atlas, put it in low gear, and head into a 1/8" cut of stainless, you would first notice chatter. Or you would first notice a broken gear housing. Or something else which just wasn't up to the torque.

                          It's just not a workable idea.

                          The only reason you might need more power anyway is to increase the flow of blue chips when you're hogging. Sure, we've all been frustrated when it hits home that "you can cut that on an Atlas, but it will take about six hours".

                          But that's reality. An Atlas lathe can be moved by hand, and by two people even mounted. A legitimate 1HP lathe weighs in the 1000 lb range. Think 1000 lb per HP. There's the tradeoff.

                          dws
                        • inspiro_creo
                          Scott, Fwiw, if you re interested, I have a new old stock 1/2hp capacitar start GE electric motor. I paid $100 for it and since then aquired a Baldor motor
                          Message 12 of 27 , Jul 3 9:11 AM
                            Scott,

                            Fwiw, if you're interested, I have a new old stock 1/2hp capacitar start GE electric motor. I paid $100 for it and since then aquired a Baldor motor of the same specs.

                            --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "yaeffinhoo" <yaeffinhoo@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > Oof, information overload.... Thanks for all the help everybody. In a way you've done me a favor. Since I don't have an adequate motor handy I'll probably set this project aside for the time being and concentrate on things that I really need to get done instead :) For what its worth, the original 1/3 hp motor on it and it works just fine so I'll probably just keep my eye open for a 1/2 or 3/4 hp reversible motor (probably easier to find than a 1/3 hp anyway).
                            >
                            > Musing on things a little more, I'm wondering if anybody has ever tried to make a locking mechanism for a threaded chuck to prevent the possibility of spin off. I can think of a couple ways to do it. Not sure if they'd be feasible or not and I wouldn't try it myself anyway. But it makes for a good mental exercise... The first idea comes straight from my reloading experience where the lock rings are held in place on the dies with a simple set screw that has a piece of lead shot underneath it to protect the threads and act like a brake. The second idea would be a bit more complex but would involve grinding a detent in the spindle and installing a matching detent ball in the chuck under a spring with a set screw to add/remove tension (resulting in something like a ratchet handle lock mechanism). To keep the lead/detent ball in place in either one, you'd need a stepped or conical hole in the chuck....
                            >
                            > Like I said, not something I'd try without substantial need since I really don't want to drill and tap either of my chucks, but fun to think about anyway.
                            >
                            > Thanks again for all the help guys.
                            > Scott
                            >
                            > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Doc <n8as1@> wrote:
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > ERROR ......spindle reverse IS used when threading w/ metric or w/ out the thrd dial on other than multiples of the lead screw pitch ......sorry ...aged brain making more mistakes daily
                            > > doc
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > -----Original Message-----
                            > > From: Doc <n8as1@>
                            > > To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                            > > Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 10:54 pm
                            > > Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > FWIW ..... " dont use reverse w/ a screw chuck " has been widely disemminated & provides an excuse for the lack of common sense in usage .
                            > > ..bear in mind that screw on chucks were in industrial use for well ove a century before any different chuck mounting appeared .....increased speeds needed for , again , industrial machining w/ carbides necessitated the developement ....in 50 + years of HSM usage , i have never had a chuck SPIN OFF in reverse ......reverse is handy for threading AWAY from a shoulder so that the thread goes all the way to the shoulder w/out the fear of a jam up , also in instances provides a better "look see" when internal threading ..reverse is used in tool post grinding ....SPINDLE reverse is not used for threading w/ out the thrd dial ...the CARRIAGE IS reversed.....
                            > > bump the chuck up against the shoulder if you are just putting on the chuck ( by hand , NOT under power .)
                            > > stay in first & second speeds
                            > > be sensible abt depth of cut ...( threading & grinding are done w/ VERY lite forces..)...you can even EXPERIMENT at LOW speed to see how deep a cut can be taken before chuck starts to move...
                            > > stay w/ high speed tooling in spindle reverse ( you shud 95 % of the time anyway , atlas /crftsmn were NOT designed for carbide.) for it is sharper & less force needed to make it cut ....
                            > > keep your bits sharp & stone them
                            > >
                            > > if you are chucking w/ a center on the outboard end ( AND youu tighten all up ) how can the chuck come OFF??????
                            > >
                            > > re HP ...manual calls of 1/2 hp on my crftsmn 12x36 .commercial .... older crftsmn lathes used 1/3 or 1/2 for heavy duty
                            > > .(..that is a TRUE 1/2 hp ,namely 6-7 amps )...w/ the belts tight i have taken a hundred thou depth of cut in steel w/ out stalling .....
                            > > ..trying to thinik how excess hp HURTS ...i guess if your belts are tight & you run the carriage into the chuck ( w/ out a shear pin or a slip clutch) , there will be one h--- of a wreck since the xcess hp will refuse to stop !!!! one of the nice things abt belt feed os you can keep them a tad slack for safety in the event of stupidity ....in a hurry 50 yrs ago i ran down to the basement & cranked up a 6x18 ...didnt tuck my tie in ,,,,& the chuck grabbed it ......i was abt 2 inches away from the chuck when i pulled back enuf to slip the belt long enuf to shut down ........i have a pic somewhere where on a high speed gearhead ,there is nothing left above his neck ( that is recognizable ) on some careless guy that got a sleeve caught ..
                            > > .two things i have learned ..NO rings NO long sleeves /hair / loose shirts
                            > > also never hand crank a tractor till you hav e put it in neutral ( i have know better for 60 years , but got carelss ..i jumped clear & the front tire ran over my left toe ...there were belly cultivators on it & had it knocked me down , it wud have gutted me..it always took abt 8 turns to start ....& i wud have seen it try to lurch formard ..& taken it out of gear ,....this time it started on the first pull !!!!.....most catastrofic things require a combination of events to occur ....
                            > >
                            > > i guess you cud have some impossibly ignorant set up that wud stall a 1/2 hp mtr , but wud allow a 2hp to create wreck ???
                            > > you might look at the amps & see how many it pulls ... plus/minus 12 amps / per hP is ususal .....today they rate mtrs w/ excessive HP
                            > > why waste a true 2 hp mtr on an atlas crftsmn ?
                            > > best wishes
                            > > doc
                            > >
                            > > -----Original Message-----
                            > > From: yaeffinhoo <yaeffinhoo@>
                            > > To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                            > > Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 8:46 pm
                            > > Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Reversing direction on Atlas/Craftsman
                            > >
                            > > " The big answer, not all lathe operations involve a chuck. There are collets, and there are center-to-center techniques, both of which are usually preferred to a chuck for precision work."
                            > > >
                            > >
                            > > Duh, I guess I should have known that intuitively! Long day and not enough experience.
                            > >
                            > > Next question, Is there any kind of practical or absolute hp max that I should think about while looking for a reversible direction motor? I've got a 2hp 3450 unit that I could use, but I'm afraid that especially after gearing it down to compensate for the rpm difference it would be way too much motor for the lathe...
                            > >
                            > > Thanks again
                            > >
                            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            > >
                            >
                          • wa5cab@cs.com
                            I will add (not related to HP), that if you know what you are doing and if the motor isn t a sealed unit that you can t disassemble, most if not all single
                            Message 13 of 27 , Jul 3 9:57 AM
                              I will add (not related to HP), that if you know what you are doing and if
                              the motor isn't a sealed unit that you can't disassemble, most if not all
                              single phase capacitor start motor can be rewired for external reversing.
                              What you have to do is locate, identify and bring out the two leads for the run
                              winding and the two leads for the start winding plus centrifugal switch
                              plus start capacitor. And wire them correctly to the FWD-OFF-REV switch.

                              Robert D.

                              In a message dated 07/03/2012 11:11:06 AM Central Daylight Time,
                              david.deboize@... writes:
                              > Scott,
                              >
                              > Fwiw, if you're interested, I have a new old stock 1/2hp capacitar start
                              > GE electric motor. I paid $100 for it and since then aquired a Baldor
                              > motor of the same specs.
                              >
                              > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "yaeffinhoo" <yaeffinhoo@...>
                              > wrote:
                              > >
                              > >Oof, information overload.... Thanks for all the help everybody. In a
                              > way you've done me a favor. Since I don't have an adequate motor handy I'll
                              > probably set this project aside for the time being and concentrate on
                              > things that I really need to get done instead :) For what its worth, the
                              > original 1/3 hp motor on it and it works just fine so I'll probably just keep my
                              > eye open for a 1/2 or 3/4 hp reversible motor (probably easier to find
                              > than a 1/3 hp anyway).
                              > >
                              > >Musing on things a little more, I'm wondering if anybody has ever tried
                              > to make a locking mechanism for a threaded chuck to prevent the possibility
                              > of spin off. I can think of a couple ways to do it. Not sure if they'd be
                              > feasible or not and I wouldn't try it myself anyway. But it makes for a
                              > good mental exercise... The first idea comes straight from my reloading
                              > experience where the lock rings are held in place on the dies with a simple
                              > set screw that has a piece of lead shot underneath it to protect the threads
                              > and act like a brake. The second idea would be a bit more complex but
                              > would involve grinding a detent in the spindle and installing a matching detent
                              > ball in the chuck under a spring with a set screw to add/remove tension
                              > (resulting in something like a ratchet handle lock mechanism). To keep the
                              > lead/detent ball in place in either one, you'd need a stepped or conical
                              > hole in the chuck....
                              > >
                              > >Like I said, not something I'd try without substantial need since I
                              > really don't want to drill and tap either of my chucks, but fun to think about
                              > anyway.
                              > >
                              > >Thanks again for all the help guys.
                              > >Scott
                              > >
                              > >--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Doc <n8as1@> wrote:
                              > >>
                              > >>
                              > >>ERROR ......spindle reverse IS used when threading w/ metric or w/
                              > out the thrd dial on other than multiples of the lead screw pitch
                              > ......sorry ...aged brain making more mistakes daily
                              > >> doc
                              >

                              Robert Downs - Houston
                              wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                              MVPA 9480

                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            • yaeffinhoo
                              Thanks Robert, I m a pretty good hand at most things, but am constantly afraid of letting the smoke out of my electric and electronic toys and tools. I m one
                              Message 14 of 27 , Jul 3 2:10 PM
                                Thanks Robert, I'm a pretty good hand at most things, but am constantly afraid of letting the smoke out of my electric and electronic toys and tools. I'm one of those "know just enough to be dangerous" guys on that front.... Luckily my father and little brother are both EE's so I have good help when I need it. I'll have to check to see if one of my 1/2 hp motors is a cap start (I've got several that are non-capacitor units). If it is I might just see about converting it...

                                --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@... wrote:
                                >
                                > I will add (not related to HP), that if you know what you are doing and if
                                > the motor isn't a sealed unit that you can't disassemble, most if not all
                                > single phase capacitor start motor can be rewired for external reversing.
                                > What you have to do is locate, identify and bring out the two leads for the run
                                > winding and the two leads for the start winding plus centrifugal switch
                                > plus start capacitor. And wire them correctly to the FWD-OFF-REV switch.
                                >
                                > Robert D.
                                >
                                > In a message dated 07/03/2012 11:11:06 AM Central Daylight Time,
                                > david.deboize@... writes:
                                > > Scott,
                                > >
                                > > Fwiw, if you're interested, I have a new old stock 1/2hp capacitar start
                                > > GE electric motor. I paid $100 for it and since then aquired a Baldor
                                > > motor of the same specs.
                                > >
                                > > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "yaeffinhoo" <yaeffinhoo@>
                                > > wrote:
                                > > >
                                > > >Oof, information overload.... Thanks for all the help everybody. In a
                                > > way you've done me a favor. Since I don't have an adequate motor handy I'll
                                > > probably set this project aside for the time being and concentrate on
                                > > things that I really need to get done instead :) For what its worth, the
                                > > original 1/3 hp motor on it and it works just fine so I'll probably just keep my
                                > > eye open for a 1/2 or 3/4 hp reversible motor (probably easier to find
                                > > than a 1/3 hp anyway).
                                > > >
                                > > >Musing on things a little more, I'm wondering if anybody has ever tried
                                > > to make a locking mechanism for a threaded chuck to prevent the possibility
                                > > of spin off. I can think of a couple ways to do it. Not sure if they'd be
                                > > feasible or not and I wouldn't try it myself anyway. But it makes for a
                                > > good mental exercise... The first idea comes straight from my reloading
                                > > experience where the lock rings are held in place on the dies with a simple
                                > > set screw that has a piece of lead shot underneath it to protect the threads
                                > > and act like a brake. The second idea would be a bit more complex but
                                > > would involve grinding a detent in the spindle and installing a matching detent
                                > > ball in the chuck under a spring with a set screw to add/remove tension
                                > > (resulting in something like a ratchet handle lock mechanism). To keep the
                                > > lead/detent ball in place in either one, you'd need a stepped or conical
                                > > hole in the chuck....
                                > > >
                                > > >Like I said, not something I'd try without substantial need since I
                                > > really don't want to drill and tap either of my chucks, but fun to think about
                                > > anyway.
                                > > >
                                > > >Thanks again for all the help guys.
                                > > >Scott
                                > > >
                                > > >--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Doc <n8as1@> wrote:
                                > > >>
                                > > >>
                                > > >>ERROR ......spindle reverse IS used when threading w/ metric or w/
                                > > out the thrd dial on other than multiples of the lead screw pitch
                                > > ......sorry ...aged brain making more mistakes daily
                                > > >> doc
                                > >
                                >
                                > Robert Downs - Houston
                                > wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                                > MVPA 9480
                                >
                                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                >
                              • wa5cab@cs.com
                                All right. Assuming that you don t mean that most of your motors are 3-phase, most single phase motors are reversible. I just assumed you were talking about
                                Message 15 of 27 , Jul 3 3:37 PM
                                  All right. Assuming that you don't mean that most of your motors are
                                  3-phase, most single phase motors are reversible. I just assumed you were
                                  talking about a capacitor start one as since WW-II the majority built have been of
                                  that type. .Unless they are smaller than 1/4 HP. Split phase motors were
                                  common before WW-II and are reversed the same was as capacitor start types.
                                  But their starting torque is typically lower than from the capacitor start
                                  ones so when technology improved enough to build small and sufficiently
                                  reliable capacitors, that type took over the market.

                                  In a message dated 07/03/2012 16:10:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                  yaeffinhoo@... writes:
                                  > Thanks Robert, I'm a pretty good hand at most things, but am constantly
                                  > afraid of letting the smoke out of my electric and electronic toys and
                                  > tools. I'm one of those "know just enough to be dangerous" guys on that
                                  > front.... Luckily my father and little brother are both EE's so I have good help
                                  > when I need it. I'll have to check to see if one of my 1/2 hp motors is a
                                  > cap start (I've got several that are non-capacitor units). If it is I might
                                  > just see about converting it...
                                  >
                                  >

                                  Robert Downs - Houston
                                  wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                                  MVPA 9480

                                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                • yaeffinhoo
                                  Yep, I looked at them and most of the motors I have on the shelf are cap start units after all. I was thrown a little bit by the lack of the external
                                  Message 16 of 27 , Jul 4 7:01 PM
                                    Yep, I looked at them and most of the motors I have on the shelf are cap start units after all. I was thrown a little bit by the lack of the external capacitor housing on some of them (these being the craftsman motors which must have the capacitor mounted internally.)Actually, the only non-cap motor I have is a 1.5 hp dual speed unit off an old pool pump. I think I'm in good shape in terms of being able to upgrade the motor after all. That means I just need to order the switch and figure out the wiring in my spare time. :)

                                    --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@... wrote:
                                    >
                                    > All right. Assuming that you don't mean that most of your motors are
                                    > 3-phase, most single phase motors are reversible. I just assumed you were
                                    > talking about a capacitor start one as since WW-II the majority built have been of
                                    > that type. .Unless they are smaller than 1/4 HP. Split phase motors were
                                    > common before WW-II and are reversed the same was as capacitor start types.
                                    > But their starting torque is typically lower than from the capacitor start
                                    > ones so when technology improved enough to build small and sufficiently
                                    > reliable capacitors, that type took over the market.
                                    >
                                    > In a message dated 07/03/2012 16:10:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                    > yaeffinhoo@... writes:
                                    > > Thanks Robert, I'm a pretty good hand at most things, but am constantly
                                    > > afraid of letting the smoke out of my electric and electronic toys and
                                    > > tools. I'm one of those "know just enough to be dangerous" guys on that
                                    > > front.... Luckily my father and little brother are both EE's so I have good help
                                    > > when I need it. I'll have to check to see if one of my 1/2 hp motors is a
                                    > > cap start (I've got several that are non-capacitor units). If it is I might
                                    > > just see about converting it...
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    >
                                    > Robert Downs - Houston
                                    > wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                                    > MVPA 9480
                                    >
                                    > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    >
                                  • wa5cab@cs.com
                                    OK. If you have that many, unless they all came out of the same application, some may already be wired for reversing. In a message dated 07/04/2012 21:01:57
                                    Message 17 of 27 , Jul 4 7:21 PM
                                      OK. If you have that many, unless they all came out of the same
                                      application, some may already be wired for reversing.

                                      In a message dated 07/04/2012 21:01:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                      yaeffinhoo@... writes:
                                      > Yep, I looked at them and most of the motors I have on the shelf are cap
                                      > start units after all. I was thrown a little bit by the lack of the
                                      > external capacitor housing on some of them (these being the craftsman motors
                                      > which must have the capacitor mounted internally.)Actually, the only non-cap
                                      > motor I have is a 1.5 hp dual speed unit off an old pool pump. I think I'm
                                      > in good shape in terms of being able to upgrade the motor after all. That
                                      > means I just need to order the switch and figure out the wiring in my spare
                                      > time. :)
                                      >
                                      > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@... wrote:
                                      > >
                                      > >All right. Assuming that you don't mean that most of your motors are
                                      > >3-phase, most single phase motors are reversible. I just assumed you
                                      > were
                                      > >talking about a capacitor start one as since WW-II the majority built
                                      > have been of
                                      > >that type. .Unless they are smaller than 1/4 HP. Split phase motors were
                                      >
                                      > >common before WW-II and are reversed the same was as capacitor start
                                      > types.
                                      > >But their starting torque is typically lower than from the capacitor
                                      > start
                                      > >ones so when technology improved enough to build small and sufficiently
                                      > >reliable capacitors, that type took over the market.
                                      > >
                                      > >In a message dated 07/03/2012 16:10:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                      > >yaeffinhoo@... writes:
                                      > >>Thanks Robert, I'm a pretty good hand at most things, but am constantly
                                      > >>afraid of letting the smoke out of my electric and electronic toys and
                                      > >>tools. I'm one of those "know just enough to be dangerous" guys on that
                                      >
                                      > >>front.... Luckily my father and little brother are both EE's so I have
                                      > good help
                                      > >>when I need it. I'll have to check to see if one of my 1/2 hp motors is
                                      > a
                                      > >>cap start (I've got several that are non-capacitor units). If it is I
                                      > might
                                      > >>just see about converting it...
                                      > >>
                                      > >>
                                      > >
                                      > >Robert Downs - Houston
                                      > >wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                                      > >MVPA 9480
                                      > >
                                      > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                      >

                                      Robert & Susan Downs - Houston
                                      wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                                      MVPA 9480

                                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    • yaeffinhoo
                                      Tags don t indicate that they re reversible, but maybe when I pull one of them apart I ll find out differently. That would be nice anyway...
                                      Message 18 of 27 , Jul 5 4:16 PM
                                        Tags don't indicate that they're reversible, but maybe when I pull one of them apart I'll find out differently. That would be nice anyway...

                                        --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@... wrote:
                                        >
                                        > OK. If you have that many, unless they all came out of the same
                                        > application, some may already be wired for reversing.
                                        >
                                        > In a message dated 07/04/2012 21:01:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                        > yaeffinhoo@... writes:
                                        > > Yep, I looked at them and most of the motors I have on the shelf are cap
                                        > > start units after all. I was thrown a little bit by the lack of the
                                        > > external capacitor housing on some of them (these being the craftsman motors
                                        > > which must have the capacitor mounted internally.)Actually, the only non-cap
                                        > > motor I have is a 1.5 hp dual speed unit off an old pool pump. I think I'm
                                        > > in good shape in terms of being able to upgrade the motor after all. That
                                        > > means I just need to order the switch and figure out the wiring in my spare
                                        > > time. :)
                                        > >
                                        > > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@ wrote:
                                        > > >
                                        > > >All right. Assuming that you don't mean that most of your motors are
                                        > > >3-phase, most single phase motors are reversible. I just assumed you
                                        > > were
                                        > > >talking about a capacitor start one as since WW-II the majority built
                                        > > have been of
                                        > > >that type. .Unless they are smaller than 1/4 HP. Split phase motors were
                                        > >
                                        > > >common before WW-II and are reversed the same was as capacitor start
                                        > > types.
                                        > > >But their starting torque is typically lower than from the capacitor
                                        > > start
                                        > > >ones so when technology improved enough to build small and sufficiently
                                        > > >reliable capacitors, that type took over the market.
                                        > > >
                                        > > >In a message dated 07/03/2012 16:10:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                        > > >yaeffinhoo@ writes:
                                        > > >>Thanks Robert, I'm a pretty good hand at most things, but am constantly
                                        > > >>afraid of letting the smoke out of my electric and electronic toys and
                                        > > >>tools. I'm one of those "know just enough to be dangerous" guys on that
                                        > >
                                        > > >>front.... Luckily my father and little brother are both EE's so I have
                                        > > good help
                                        > > >>when I need it. I'll have to check to see if one of my 1/2 hp motors is
                                        > > a
                                        > > >>cap start (I've got several that are non-capacitor units). If it is I
                                        > > might
                                        > > >>just see about converting it...
                                        > > >>
                                        > > >>
                                        > > >
                                        > > >Robert Downs - Houston
                                        > > >wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                                        > > >MVPA 9480
                                        > > >
                                        > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        > >
                                        >
                                        > Robert & Susan Downs - Houston
                                        > wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                                        > MVPA 9480
                                        >
                                        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        >
                                      • wa5cab@cs.com
                                        A lot of capacitor start motors are built so that the run either CW or CCW it you hook up two wires to them, for use with specific types of equipment that
                                        Message 19 of 27 , Jul 5 8:19 PM
                                          A lot of capacitor start motors are built so that the run either CW or CCW
                                          it you hook up two wires to them, for use with specific types of equipment
                                          that generally don't need to run in reverse, like a bench grinder, band saw
                                          or a table saw. Motors built for universal rather than specific applications
                                          will have all four wires run out. But they are perhaps in the minority as
                                          manufacturers supplying outfits like Sears will do special runs of motors
                                          for one model or model group of equipment Given the low technical
                                          capabilities of the general populace today as opposed to half a century ago, and their
                                          propensity to sue at the drop of a hat, this is unfortunately
                                          understandable.

                                          But as I wrote earlier, if you can get at and ID the wires, any capacitor
                                          start motor is reversible. The nature of the design requirements ensures
                                          this. A start winding cannot be in series with a run winding. It will be in
                                          series with the start capacitor and the centrifugal switch. The run winding
                                          will not.

                                          In a message dated 07/05/2012 18:16:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                          yaeffinhoo@... writes:
                                          > Tags don't indicate that they're reversible, but maybe when I pull one of
                                          > them apart I'll find out differently. That would be nice anyway...
                                          >
                                          > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@... wrote:
                                          > >
                                          > >OK. If you have that many, unless they all came out of the same
                                          > >application, some may already be wired for reversing.
                                          > >
                                          > >In a message dated 07/04/2012 21:01:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                          > >yaeffinhoo@... writes:
                                          > >>Yep, I looked at them and most of the motors I have on the shelf are cap
                                          >
                                          > >>start units after all. I was thrown a little bit by the lack of the
                                          > >>external capacitor housing on some of them (these being the craftsman
                                          > motors
                                          > >>which must have the capacitor mounted internally.)Actually, the only
                                          > non-cap
                                          > >>motor I have is a 1.5 hp dual speed unit off an old pool pump. I think
                                          > I'm
                                          > >>in good shape in terms of being able to upgrade the motor after all.
                                          > That
                                          > >>means I just need to order the switch and figure out the wiring in my
                                          > spare
                                          > >>time. :)
                                          > >>
                                          > >>--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@ wrote:
                                          > >>>
                                          > >>>All right. Assuming that you don't mean that most of your motors are
                                          > >>>3-phase, most single phase motors are reversible. I just assumed you
                                          > >>were
                                          > >>>talking about a capacitor start one as since WW-II the majority built
                                          > >>have been of
                                          > >>>that type. .Unless they are smaller than 1/4 HP. Split phase motors
                                          > were
                                          > >>
                                          > >>>common before WW-II and are reversed the same was as capacitor start
                                          > >>types.
                                          > >>>But their starting torque is typically lower than from the capacitor
                                          > >>start
                                          > >>>ones so when technology improved enough to build small and sufficiently
                                          >
                                          > >>>reliable capacitors, that type took over the market.
                                          > >>>
                                          > >>>In a message dated 07/03/2012 16:10:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                          > >>>yaeffinhoo@ writes:
                                          > >>>>Thanks Robert, I'm a pretty good hand at most things, but am
                                          > constantly
                                          > >>>>afraid of letting the smoke out of my electric and electronic toys and
                                          >
                                          > >>>>tools. I'm one of those "know just enough to be dangerous" guys on
                                          > that
                                          > >>
                                          > >>>>front.... Luckily my father and little brother are both EE's so I have
                                          >
                                          > >>good help
                                          > >>>>when I need it. I'll have to check to see if one of my 1/2 hp motors
                                          > is
                                          > >>a
                                          > >>>>cap start (I've got several that are non-capacitor units). If it is I
                                          >
                                          > >>might
                                          > >>>>just see about converting it...
                                          > >>>>

                                          Robert & Susan Downs - Houston
                                          wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                                          MVPA 9480

                                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        • yaeffinhoo
                                          Thanks again. I m going to be spending the weekend doing framing and gas line work so no chance of starting on this right away, but do I just need to reverse
                                          Message 20 of 27 , Jul 6 9:22 AM
                                            Thanks again.
                                            I'm going to be spending the weekend doing framing and gas line work so no chance of starting on this right away, but do I just need to reverse the polarity of the run winding, or of both the start and run windings?

                                            S

                                            --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@... wrote:
                                            >
                                            > A lot of capacitor start motors are built so that the run either CW or CCW
                                            > it you hook up two wires to them, for use with specific types of equipment
                                            > that generally don't need to run in reverse, like a bench grinder, band saw
                                            > or a table saw. Motors built for universal rather than specific applications
                                            > will have all four wires run out. But they are perhaps in the minority as
                                            > manufacturers supplying outfits like Sears will do special runs of motors
                                            > for one model or model group of equipment Given the low technical
                                            > capabilities of the general populace today as opposed to half a century ago, and their
                                            > propensity to sue at the drop of a hat, this is unfortunately
                                            > understandable.
                                            >
                                            > But as I wrote earlier, if you can get at and ID the wires, any capacitor
                                            > start motor is reversible. The nature of the design requirements ensures
                                            > this. A start winding cannot be in series with a run winding. It will be in
                                            > series with the start capacitor and the centrifugal switch. The run winding
                                            > will not.
                                            >
                                            > In a message dated 07/05/2012 18:16:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                            > yaeffinhoo@... writes:
                                            > > Tags don't indicate that they're reversible, but maybe when I pull one of
                                            > > them apart I'll find out differently. That would be nice anyway...
                                            > >
                                            > > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@ wrote:
                                            > > >
                                            > > >OK. If you have that many, unless they all came out of the same
                                            > > >application, some may already be wired for reversing.
                                            > > >
                                            > > >In a message dated 07/04/2012 21:01:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                            > > >yaeffinhoo@ writes:
                                            > > >>Yep, I looked at them and most of the motors I have on the shelf are cap
                                            > >
                                            > > >>start units after all. I was thrown a little bit by the lack of the
                                            > > >>external capacitor housing on some of them (these being the craftsman
                                            > > motors
                                            > > >>which must have the capacitor mounted internally.)Actually, the only
                                            > > non-cap
                                            > > >>motor I have is a 1.5 hp dual speed unit off an old pool pump. I think
                                            > > I'm
                                            > > >>in good shape in terms of being able to upgrade the motor after all.
                                            > > That
                                            > > >>means I just need to order the switch and figure out the wiring in my
                                            > > spare
                                            > > >>time. :)
                                            > > >>
                                            > > >>--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@ wrote:
                                            > > >>>
                                            > > >>>All right. Assuming that you don't mean that most of your motors are
                                            > > >>>3-phase, most single phase motors are reversible. I just assumed you
                                            > > >>were
                                            > > >>>talking about a capacitor start one as since WW-II the majority built
                                            > > >>have been of
                                            > > >>>that type. .Unless they are smaller than 1/4 HP. Split phase motors
                                            > > were
                                            > > >>
                                            > > >>>common before WW-II and are reversed the same was as capacitor start
                                            > > >>types.
                                            > > >>>But their starting torque is typically lower than from the capacitor
                                            > > >>start
                                            > > >>>ones so when technology improved enough to build small and sufficiently
                                            > >
                                            > > >>>reliable capacitors, that type took over the market.
                                            > > >>>
                                            > > >>>In a message dated 07/03/2012 16:10:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
                                            > > >>>yaeffinhoo@ writes:
                                            > > >>>>Thanks Robert, I'm a pretty good hand at most things, but am
                                            > > constantly
                                            > > >>>>afraid of letting the smoke out of my electric and electronic toys and
                                            > >
                                            > > >>>>tools. I'm one of those "know just enough to be dangerous" guys on
                                            > > that
                                            > > >>
                                            > > >>>>front.... Luckily my father and little brother are both EE's so I have
                                            > >
                                            > > >>good help
                                            > > >>>>when I need it. I'll have to check to see if one of my 1/2 hp motors
                                            > > is
                                            > > >>a
                                            > > >>>>cap start (I've got several that are non-capacitor units). If it is I
                                            > >
                                            > > >>might
                                            > > >>>>just see about converting it...
                                            > > >>>>
                                            >
                                            > Robert & Susan Downs - Houston
                                            > wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                                            > MVPA 9480
                                            >
                                            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                            >
                                          • Scott Henion
                                            ... Just the start winding, or just the run winding, not both. It is the relative polarity of the two that determines the direction. I might mention, this is
                                            Message 21 of 27 , Jul 6 9:30 AM
                                              On 7/6/2012 12:22 PM, yaeffinhoo wrote:
                                              > Thanks again.
                                              > I'm going to be spending the weekend doing framing and gas line work so no chance of starting on this right away, but do I just need to reverse the polarity of the run winding, or of both the start and run windings?

                                              Just the start winding, or just the run winding, not both. It is the
                                              relative polarity of the two that determines the direction.

                                              I might mention, this is also a chance to upgrade to a VFD and 3-phase
                                              motor or a DC motor like one from a treadmill.

                                              I use reverse on mine for metric threads but I use the variable speed of
                                              my VFD much more often. The VFD has ramp up and ramp down that makes
                                              reversing nice (I can change directions when it is running and the VFD,
                                              slows to a stop and automatically restarts the opposite direction.

                                              Nice to not change pulley settings often with variable speed.

                                              --

                                              ------------------------------------
                                              Scott G. Henion
                                              Craftsman 12x36 lathe:
                                              http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman12x36
                                              ------------------------------------
                                            • wa5cab@cs.com
                                              Either one, but not both. If you switch both, the motor will continue to run in the same direction. Traditionally, the switching is done to the series
                                              Message 22 of 27 , Jul 6 9:35 AM
                                                Either one, but not both. If you switch both, the motor will continue to
                                                run in the same direction. Traditionally, the switching is done to the
                                                series combination of start winding, centrifugal switch and starting capacitor.
                                                But in practice, it works as well if you swap ends with the run winding
                                                instead.

                                                In a message dated 07/06/2012 11:22:19 AM Central Daylight Time,
                                                yaeffinhoo@... writes:
                                                > Thanks again.
                                                > I'm going to be spending the weekend doing framing and gas line work so no
                                                > chance of starting on this right away, but do I just need to reverse the
                                                > polarity of the run winding, or of both the start and run windings?
                                                >
                                                > S
                                                >
                                                >

                                                Robert Downs - Houston
                                                wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
                                                MVPA 9480

                                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                              • Jon Elson
                                                ... No, it is reversing the polarity of one winding with respect to the other that makes it run the other way. Reversing both will just make it run the same
                                                Message 23 of 27 , Jul 6 6:46 PM
                                                  yaeffinhoo wrote:
                                                  > Thanks again.
                                                  > I'm going to be spending the weekend doing framing and gas line work so no chance of starting on this right away, but do I just need to reverse the polarity of the run winding, or of both the start and run windings?
                                                  >
                                                  No, it is reversing the polarity of one winding with respect to the
                                                  other that makes
                                                  it run the other way. Reversing both will just make it run the same way.

                                                  Jon
                                                • yaeffinhoo
                                                  I ve seen your vfd setup Scott, If I had one sitting around I d do it. But at the moment I have a few friends who are bigger scavengers than I am on the
                                                  Message 24 of 27 , Jul 7 7:50 AM
                                                    I've seen your vfd setup Scott, If I had one sitting around I'd do it. But at the moment I have a few friends who are bigger scavengers than I am on the lookout for both a vfd and a decent treadmill motor.


                                                    --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Scott Henion <shenion@...> wrote:
                                                    >
                                                    > On 7/6/2012 12:22 PM, yaeffinhoo wrote:
                                                    > > Thanks again.
                                                    > > I'm going to be spending the weekend doing framing and gas line work so no chance of starting on this right away, but do I just need to reverse the polarity of the run winding, or of both the start and run windings?
                                                    >
                                                    > Just the start winding, or just the run winding, not both. It is the
                                                    > relative polarity of the two that determines the direction.
                                                    >
                                                    > I might mention, this is also a chance to upgrade to a VFD and 3-phase
                                                    > motor or a DC motor like one from a treadmill.
                                                    >
                                                    > I use reverse on mine for metric threads but I use the variable speed of
                                                    > my VFD much more often. The VFD has ramp up and ramp down that makes
                                                    > reversing nice (I can change directions when it is running and the VFD,
                                                    > slows to a stop and automatically restarts the opposite direction.
                                                    >
                                                    > Nice to not change pulley settings often with variable speed.
                                                    >
                                                    > --
                                                    >
                                                    > ------------------------------------
                                                    > Scott G. Henion
                                                    > Craftsman 12x36 lathe:
                                                    > http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman12x36
                                                    > ------------------------------------
                                                    >
                                                  • yaeffinhoo
                                                    Well, the county permit dept slowed my gas line work down so tonight I started playing with those motors again. First thing I noticed under the fluorescent
                                                    Message 25 of 27 , Jul 7 9:08 PM
                                                      Well, the county permit dept slowed my gas line work down so tonight I started playing with those motors again. First thing I noticed under the fluorescent lights (vs sunlight) was a very faded sentence on the corner of the tag for the motor I was planning to use... "to reverse rotation, switch wires 5 & 8".... :) My life just got easier!

                                                      Thanks again for all the advice and assitance guys. Learned something new even if I didn't get to use it.

                                                      Scott

                                                      --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Scott Henion <shenion@...> wrote:
                                                      >
                                                      > On 7/6/2012 12:22 PM, yaeffinhoo wrote:
                                                      > > Thanks again.
                                                      > > I'm going to be spending the weekend doing framing and gas line work so no chance of starting on this right away, but do I just need to reverse the polarity of the run winding, or of both the start and run windings?
                                                      >
                                                      > Just the start winding, or just the run winding, not both. It is the
                                                      > relative polarity of the two that determines the direction.
                                                      >
                                                      > I might mention, this is also a chance to upgrade to a VFD and 3-phase
                                                      > motor or a DC motor like one from a treadmill.
                                                      >
                                                      > I use reverse on mine for metric threads but I use the variable speed of
                                                      > my VFD much more often. The VFD has ramp up and ramp down that makes
                                                      > reversing nice (I can change directions when it is running and the VFD,
                                                      > slows to a stop and automatically restarts the opposite direction.
                                                      >
                                                      > Nice to not change pulley settings often with variable speed.
                                                      >
                                                      > --
                                                      >
                                                      > ------------------------------------
                                                      > Scott G. Henion
                                                      > Craftsman 12x36 lathe:
                                                      > http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman12x36
                                                      > ------------------------------------
                                                      >
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