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Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Tailstock ram locking screw problem - 101.28940 12 x 36

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  • Jon Elson
    ... I m not sure that Atlas made the part this way, so I m guessing that maybe they went up a thread size after damaging the threads in the casting, and then
    Message 1 of 9 , Nov 3, 2010
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      Bill N wrote:
      > Thanks Jon. I had initially assUmeD that the groove in the bottom of the ram stopped short of the back end so it wouldn't fall out, but then after reading your msg, I realized if the groove went all the way through, that after unscrewing the handwheel end all the way, I COULD pull the ram out over the screw. Sure enough it worked. Even though the tip of the screw is ground to have two flat sides, its still wider than the width of the groove, so you can NOT unscrew it until you have taken the ram out. The locknut on the screw is only there to lock it in place so the flats on the screw tip stay aligned with the groove to minimize wear.
      >
      > Since the top of my screw is messed up, I'll pick up an ordinary one with the same threads for 10 or 15 cents, spend a few minutes dressing it up with my file and I'll have SAVED about $32. At this rate I'll have this lathe paying for itself in no time ...... RIGHT?
      >
      I'm not sure that Atlas made the part this way, so I'm guessing that
      maybe they went up a thread size after damaging the threads in the
      casting, and then flatting the screw was a good idea. $32 for this
      screw is pretty outrageous. I'll bet they don't sell a lot of them as
      almost anybody would just make it themselves.

      Jon
    • David Beierl
      ... I ll have to check, but my recollection is that my 618 is made this way. It makes sense to me, as it gives a large bearing surface on the ram compared to
      Message 2 of 9 , Nov 4, 2010
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        At 12:25 AM 11/4/2010 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:
        >I'm not sure that Atlas made the part this way, so I'm guessing that
        >maybe they went up a thread size after damaging the threads in the

        I'll have to check, but my recollection is that my 618 is made this
        way. It makes sense to me, as it gives a large bearing surface on
        the ram compared to a round pin.

        Yours,
        David

        --
        David Beierl -- Providence RI USA
        Atlas 618 6"/3" lathe ca. 1941, shiny-new Taig mill.
      • Russ Kepler
        ... You re running the calculation the wrong way - the way I call it the cost of the lathe is sunk into the very first project and all subsequent projects are
        Message 3 of 9 , Nov 4, 2010
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          On Wednesday 03 November 2010 22:36:10 Bill N wrote:

          > Since the top of my screw is messed up, I'll pick up an ordinary one with
          > the same threads for 10 or 15 cents, spend a few minutes dressing it up
          > with my file and I'll have SAVED about $32. At this rate I'll have this
          > lathe paying for itself in no time ...... RIGHT?

          You're running the calculation the wrong way - the way I call it the cost of
          the lathe is sunk into the very first project and all subsequent projects are
          profit.

          I've got a pair of $1000 bolts holding down a toilet, myself.
        • L. Garlinghouse
          Yesss!! Yessss!! I like the KepplerMachineToolAmortizationMethod [KMTAM] and have already memo d the accounting department here at Cooter Neck Forge and
          Message 4 of 9 , Nov 4, 2010
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            Yesss!! Yessss!!

            I like the KepplerMachineToolAmortizationMethod [KMTAM] and have already memo'd the accounting department here at Cooter Neck Forge and Machine Shop to switch to that method starting next quarter.

            Obviously you have spent a lot of time justifying cost savings in industry and perfecting the nuances of, as Dr. Deming called it, "managing by visible figures only."

            Later,
            L.H. Garlinghouse, President for Life
            Cooter Neck Forge and Machine Shop
            Arkansas US


            ----- Original Message -----
            From: Russ Kepler
            To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2010 7:37 AM
            Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Tailstock ram locking screw problem - 101.28940 12 x 36



            On Wednesday 03 November 2010 22:36:10 Bill N wrote:

            > Since the top of my screw is messed up, I'll pick up an ordinary one with
            > the same threads for 10 or 15 cents, spend a few minutes dressing it up
            > with my file and I'll have SAVED about $32. At this rate I'll have this
            > lathe paying for itself in no time ...... RIGHT?

            You're running the calculation the wrong way - the way I call it the cost of
            the lathe is sunk into the very first project and all subsequent projects are
            profit.

            I've got a pair of $1000 bolts holding down a toilet, myself.




            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Glenn N
            All thye ram key screws I have seen have the flats on them. This gives more surface area for the keyway to ride onand helps to keep it from getting buggered
            Message 5 of 9 , Nov 4, 2010
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              All thye ram key screws I have seen have the flats on them. This gives more
              surface area for the keyway to ride onand helps to keep it from getting
              buggered up on a heafy drilling job. When the ram gets difficult to move in
              and out it is usually because the keyway has been hammered by the screw and
              has a ridge built up along it's edges. If you drawfile the top edges of the
              slot the ram will fit properly again and slide in the bore very nicely.
              Removing the small amount of metal does not change the ram position in the
              bore as it is a small tangential section of a circle. If the ram is tight
              in the bore it is hard on the threads and a PITA to work with :)

              Glenn
              ----- Original Message -----
              From: "Bill N" <bill431nite@...>
              To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 9:36 PM
              Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Tailstock ram locking screw problem -
              101.28940 12 x 36




              Thanks Jon. I had initially assUmeD that the groove in the bottom of the
              ram stopped short of the back end so it wouldn't fall out, but then after
              reading your msg, I realized if the groove went all the way through, that
              after unscrewing the handwheel end all the way, I COULD pull the ram out
              over the screw. Sure enough it worked. Even though the tip of the screw is
              ground to have two flat sides, its still wider than the width of the groove,
              so you can NOT unscrew it until you have taken the ram out. The locknut on
              the screw is only there to lock it in place so the flats on the screw tip
              stay aligned with the groove to minimize wear.

              Since the top of my screw is messed up, I'll pick up an ordinary one with
              the same threads for 10 or 15 cents, spend a few minutes dressing it up with
              my file and I'll have SAVED about $32. At this rate I'll have this lathe
              paying for itself in no time ...... RIGHT?

              --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Jon Elson <elson@...> wrote:
              >
              > Bill Knight wrote:
              > > I'm a new member that picked up a Craftsman 12 x 36 that's been sitting
              > > around for the better part of the last 25 years. Its in pretty fair
              > > shape as far as wear goes, but its very dirty and stiff. I'm not going
              > > through a complete rebuild at this point, just giving it a good cleaning
              > > and checking it out.
              > >
              > > I need some specs for a locking screw. Its the screw under the upper
              > > front of the tailstock that engages with the groove in the tailstock ram
              > > and keeps it from spinning as you turn the handle to run the ram out. I
              > > think it also keeps you from pushing the ram all the way out.
              > >
              > I think you CAN take the ram all the way out. This screw may have been
              > made in such a way that it can't be turned when the ram is
              > in. When the screw threads on the handwheel run out, you will have to
              > pull the ram the rest of the way out.
              >
              > Jon
              >




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