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Re: Rust Removal

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  • GiancarloP
    Evapo-Rust does seem to bubble a little as a detergent would, it also cuts through grease better than acid or electrolysis did. It s a great final dip after
    Message 1 of 43 , May 4, 2010
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      Evapo-Rust does seem to bubble a little as a detergent would, it also cuts through grease better than acid or electrolysis did. It's a great final dip after electrolysis, it quickly removes flash rusting and keeps the item protected once it dries. I do plan to wipe everything down with a metal cleaner prior to priming, so probably all the ER will go after that. Where it dries a little thicker it can feel sticky or gummy, probably not something I would want to lay a coat of paint over...

      Meanwhile, I think I have a good process under way, an acceptable mix of results and economy... Acid > Electrolysis > Evapo-Rust

      http://www.machinistweb.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5468#post5468

      Regards,
      GP


      --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Ron Gerlach <r7734g@...> wrote:
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      > Lance
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      > There are quite a few variables there to draw any firm conclusions. One thing that can be considered is the E-R contains some detergent solution which may help as a final stage of degreasing if your wire brush was contaminated. They also mention letting the solution air dry on the metal for some added rust protection for up to a couple of weeks which matches with your technique. I guess the big question is if the remaining film helps or deters the adhesion of the primer or paint to the metal. I'll have to give this a try. I have been using Metal Prep for my final wipe down which does work.
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      > Thanks,
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      > Ron
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      > To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
      > From: wheezer606@...
      > Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 20:32:26 -0400
      > Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Rust Removal <was First Edition Atlas 10 Documentation>
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      > Look here:
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      > http://bit.ly/aNoR5N
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      > Pixs in Group photo album " Paint"
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      > The green Atlas was cleaned electrolytically, then wire brushed,
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      > primed and painted. I got some paint voids caused I think
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      > from some oil left on the wire brush and transfered to the
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      > The SB was cleaned in a BCB, wire brushed by hand,
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      > wiped down with E-R, then primed and painted.
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      > No paint voids.
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      > Of course, different paint used too.
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      > lance
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      > ++++
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      > On Apr 30, 2010, at 2:06 PM, GiancarloP wrote:
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      > > Sure! I'm in the process of choosing primer, paint and color...
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      > > Thanks
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      > _________________________________________________________________
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    • BillL
      Here is something I found in a aotomotive group that I thought would be of interest. Re: POR 15 vs. Ace Hardware ... There are some misconceptions here. there
      Message 43 of 43 , May 5, 2010
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        Here is something I found in a aotomotive group that I thought would be of interest.

        Re: POR 15 vs. Ace Hardware

        --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

        There are some misconceptions here. there are no acids in POR 15. It works an entirely different way. There are three basic types of rust prevention coatings.

        The first would be Rustoleum, Xrusto, RustX, Corroless, and Zero Rust. They are for the most part conventional paint, usually syntheic enamel based. These paints contain oils that react slowly so the cure process is extended, making them self sealing, and able to soak into rust, sealing it up. Only the primers have this quality, the rest of the line is just synthetic enamel paint, in most cases high quality paint, but just paint none the less.

        The second would be the rust convertors, Extend, Fertran, Permatex Rust convertor, ect. These are phosphoric acid, water, and most have a latex oil base. What these do is react the acid with the oxygen in the rust to form an inert compound, robbing the iron oxide of any free oxygen, then sealing it with the latex oil. It does work, but not on real thick rust. As long as it's topcoated soon it will do the job.

        The third type is POR 15, Rust Bullet, and a couple others. These are isocyanate based, essentially super glue with a pigment added. The way they work, isocyanate need moisture to cure, so what they do is rob the free water from rust spots, and all rust spots have free water in them, that's why they come back. Once the free water is gone, the remaining rust is sealed in place very effectively, and becomes inert.

        Of the three types, the last type seems to work best for me, some better than others, but that's another story.


        And here is the link to the thread.

        http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104269

        Bill in Cincy
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