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Re: [atlas_craftsman] digital calipers

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  • Russ Kepler
    ... Remeber that the shank of a drill is frequently smaller than the nominal size due to back taper. A cheap set of gage blocks will still be 10x closer to the
    Message 1 of 46 , Aug 2, 2009
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      On Sunday 02 August 2009 13:18:17 Michael Fagan wrote:
      > I'd get a pair of 6" Mitutoyo calipers and be done with it. Check it
      > against something with a known diameter, such as the shank of a drill
      > bit, not to check the caliper but to calibrate your feel and how much
      > pressure you put on it. I use my calipers daily and I change the
      > battery about once a year.

      Remeber that the shank of a drill is frequently smaller than the nominal size
      due to back taper.

      A cheap set of gage blocks will still be 10x closer to the right size than a
      caliper can measure, and you can check micrometers at different rotation
      angles and lengths.
    • Doc
      FWIW ...when cutting to a shoulder , on avg work , i scribe a line w/ disposable china dial caliper ,NOT my starret , nor vernier ,on a magiic
      Message 46 of 46 , Dec 15, 2010
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        FWIW ...when cutting to a shoulder , on avg work , i scribe a line w/ disposable china dial caliper ,NOT my starret , nor vernier ,on a magiic mark blob ...rough cut near the line ...then use a depth mike /telescoping ga. to measure.....then set up a cariage mt dial indicator to zero ... or mic stop & back off required amt & finsh cut ....if neither of the above are handy , set the compound in line w/lathe c/l & put it on w/ compound ...may take up to a minute more than a diigital read out , which on a "one off " macht nichts ...on a run of 5000 , a different story ..but the story is w/ CNC...& your bed is not cluttered up ...?????.
        ...if its not avg work , eyeball splitting the line, or first get out the surface plate ,ht ga,& assorted layout eq.

        on xslide work , i rough to w/in say 20 thou ,back off ( there is still SPRING in cut even on my monarch 14 in ) reset bit to zero . put on 15 thou , measure w/a mike , not a china.001+/- dial/direct read caliper ,or if ID work , i prefer my vernier or a ball/ telescope ga., STONE the bit & reset again ..put the last 5 + thou on ...it will be close .....if its a 1/2 thou large , thats what 120 /220 grit cloth is for & you probably forgot to stone your bit...if you stoned the bit ,.a second pass w/ no change may take the 1/2 out ....if high speed bit is SHARP , one can put a 1/4 thou d.o.c. on & GET IT .....if your xslide screw/nut is 3/4 worn out , put the compound in line w/ x slide & put the last on w/ it ...compound is hardly ever used sufficiently in HS to have a screw/nut w/ that kind of wear...

        just MY way FWIW


        best wishes
        docn8as






        -----Original Message-----
        From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
        To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Wed, Dec 15, 2010 1:17 pm
        Subject: RE: [atlas_craftsman] Re: digital calipers




        Bill,

        A major problem with mounting these cheap calipers is the need to drill a
        hole in the slider or body. I have found a lot of variation in the hardness
        of the metal. In one case my HSS drill went right through. The next hole
        burned the end off of the drill. The one trick that seems to work every time
        is to use a new carbide concrete drill. Once you start to drill, don't let
        up or the metal can work harden.

        Rick

        -----Original Message-----
        From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
        [mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BillL
        Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 11:32 AM
        To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: digital calipers

        Thanks Luciano
        What I am really kooling for is pictures and detais of mounting the calipers
        to a craftsman 12" lathe. I already have the calipers.
        Bill







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