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Re: [atlas_craftsman] blueing off topic

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  • paul
    Birchwood/casey s Perma blue Paste is very durable for a quick blueing. To make work best After the item to be blue is clean,heat it up :so water boils on
    Message 1 of 12 , May 1 7:54 AM
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      Birchwood/casey's "Perma blue Paste" is very durable for a quick blueing.
      To make work best After the item to be blue is clean,heat it up :so water
      boils on it; then apply the bluing. It will blue deep cause the pores in
      the steel are open. Fast ,clean and cheap.
    • Ted Lotz
      If you use the oil, use the blackest, most carbon filled used oil you can find. I drained out some good 3 year old lawnmower oil. Did a extra chuck key I made
      Message 2 of 12 , May 1 10:12 AM
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        If you use the oil, use the blackest, most carbon filled used oil you can find. I drained out some good 3 year old lawnmower oil. Did a extra chuck key I made for the lathe this way a year ago. Has held up fairly well. Make shure you do it outdoors


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      • n5kzw
        Pores?! Steel has pores? Ed ... blueing. ... water ... pores in
        Message 3 of 12 , May 1 10:49 AM
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          Pores?! Steel has pores?

          Ed

          --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "paul" <kimche@...> wrote:
          >
          > Birchwood/casey's "Perma blue Paste" is very durable for a quick
          blueing.
          > To make work best After the item to be blue is clean,heat it up :so
          water
          > boils on it; then apply the bluing. It will blue deep cause the
          pores in
          > the steel are open. Fast ,clean and cheap.
          >
        • Glenn N
          Yes :) It where the hair grows ;) ... From: n5kzw To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 10:49 AM Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re:
          Message 4 of 12 , May 1 11:46 AM
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            Yes :) It where the hair grows ;)
            ----- Original Message -----
            From: n5kzw
            To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 10:49 AM
            Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: blueing off topic


            Pores?! Steel has pores?

            Ed

            --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "paul" <kimche@...> wrote:
            >
            > Birchwood/casey's "Perma blue Paste" is very durable for a quick
            blueing.
            > To make work best After the item to be blue is clean,heat it up :so
            water
            > boils on it; then apply the bluing. It will blue deep cause the
            pores in
            > the steel are open. Fast ,clean and cheap.
            >



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          • J Wagstaff
            Charles Gallo wrote You missed one - rust blueing - regular Brown rust can be turned into Black rust blueing - actually one of the best looking. You
            Message 5 of 12 , May 1 1:09 PM
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              Charles Gallo wrote
              "You missed one - "rust blueing" - regular "Brown" rust can be turned into "Black" rust blueing - actually one of the best looking.

              You clean, polish, and degrease the part to be blued - and you usually hang it where the fumes from say Muriatic acid can get to it for about a day - it'll have a brown rust - gently wire brush of any "loose" rust, and then place the part in BOILING water - the rust will convert to blue rust, but thin - back to the fume cabinet, and repeat - after a few times, you're done"

              Another way to do it is to use Logwood Dye that trappers use to dye their traps blue/black to keep them from rusting. You can buy Logwood crystals or make your own dye. Ever see a piece of steel that has sat for a while in leaf filled water? Instructions can be found here www.trapping.com.au/trapping_qa.htm

              Logwood dye can be found here or other trapping supply houses. http://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WCSC001&Product_Code=WCSRTD-1&Category_Code=WCSDDWC

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • jerdal@sbcglobal.net
              That would probably be the tannic acid method. I have tried it, but had mixed results. Some parts were good, others were quickly rusty in humid air,
              Message 6 of 12 , May 3 8:26 AM
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                That would probably be the "tannic acid" method.

                I have tried it, but had mixed results. Some parts were good, others were
                quickly rusty in humid air, despite oiling. I am not sure why there was a
                difference.

                Possibly they were not all evenly treated, they were very small metric
                fasteners which we needed blackened for a new product sample. They rusted
                in the air off the lake that was blowing into the McCormick place trade show
                building in Chicago!

                JT

                > Charles Gallo wrote
                > "You missed one - "rust blueing" - regular "Brown" rust can be turned into
                > "Black" rust blueing - actually one of the best looking.

                > Another way to do it is to use Logwood Dye that trappers use to dye their
                > traps blue/black to keep them from rusting. You can buy Logwood crystals
                > or make your own dye. Ever see a piece of steel that has sat for a while
                > in leaf filled water? Instructions can be found here
                > www.trapping.com.au/trapping_qa.htm
                >
                >
              • Eric Crum
                ... and want to blue it, I seem to remember back to my school days in metal work you got the steel hot and plunged it into oil, but cant remember how hot,
                Message 7 of 12 , May 16 9:58 AM
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                  > Hi All,
                  >
                  > I would like to pick you brains, I am making a tailstock die holder
                  and want to blue it, I seem to remember back to my school days in metal
                  work you got the steel hot and plunged it into oil, but cant remember
                  how hot, red,yellow?
                  >

                  I have used a recipe for hot bluing salts with excelent results....
                  Standard salts need Amonia Nitrate, Lye, and Watter... When the amonia
                  nitrate hits the Lye and watter mix, HUGE ammounts of amonia gas are
                  released, making it verry bad for anything alive.... You can replace
                  the Amonia nitrate with nitrate of soda(avalible at any nursery)...
                  Since all you need is the nitrate.... It is hard to find pure lye now
                  since Red Devil stopped making it, so you need to go to either a soap
                  making store, or someplace that makes bio-disel, since they both
                  require pure lye... Here is where I got the recipe.... If you do the
                  math, you can figure out how to make a verry small batch just large
                  enough for your part...
                  http://www.blindhogg.com/homemadesalts.html
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