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Metric Threads w/o Reversing?

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  • n5kzw
    I have a vague recollection of seeing a process somewhere on cutting metric threads on an Atlas lathe without having to reverse the motor. I can t find it in
    Message 1 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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      I have a vague recollection of seeing a process somewhere on cutting
      metric threads on an Atlas lathe without having to reverse the motor.
      I can't find it in any archives.

      I want to put a 52 - .75mm thread on a chunk of metal to convert my
      telephoto lenses into telescopes, and my Atlas 6x18 doesn't have a
      reversing switch on the motor. I suppose that given the fine
      (shallow) threads, I could try to cut the thread to depth in one pass.

      Any other suggestions?

      Thanks,
      Ed Bailen
    • Ronald R Brandenburg
      Why are cutting threads and reversing the motor related? The only thing you reverse is the feed when you cut left hand threads. Ron... Craftsman Commercial
      Message 2 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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        Why are cutting threads and reversing the motor related? The only thing you
        reverse is the feed when you cut left hand threads.

        Ron...
        Craftsman Commercial 12" X 36"
        '78 Honda CB750K
        Fort Worth, Texas
        Ron_SSSS@...

        ----- Original Message -----
        From: "n5kzw" <n5kzw@...>
        To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 1:35 PM
        Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Metric Threads w/o Reversing?


        | I have a vague recollection of seeing a process somewhere on cutting
        | metric threads on an Atlas lathe without having to reverse the motor.
        | I can't find it in any archives.
        |
        | I want to put a 52 - .75mm thread on a chunk of metal to convert my
        | telephoto lenses into telescopes, and my Atlas 6x18 doesn't have a
        | reversing switch on the motor. I suppose that given the fine
        | (shallow) threads, I could try to cut the thread to depth in one pass.
        |
        | Any other suggestions?
        |
        | Thanks,
        | Ed Bailen
        |
        |
        |
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      • Ronald R Brandenburg
        ? Ron... Craftsman Commercial 12 X 36 78 Honda CB750K Fort Worth, Texas Ron_SSSS@SWBell.net ... From: Spurrs To:
        Message 3 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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          ?

          Ron...
          Craftsman Commercial 12" X 36"
          '78 Honda CB750K
          Fort Worth, Texas
          Ron_SSSS@...

          ----- Original Message -----
          From: "Spurrs" <spurrs@...>
          To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 12:30 AM
          Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Metric Threads w/o Reversing?


          | If the length of thread is not too long, back the tool off and wind the
          | spindle back by hand
          |
          | ----- Original Message -----
          | From: "n5kzw" <n5kzw@...>
          | To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
          | Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 11:35 AM
          | Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Metric Threads w/o Reversing?
          |
          |
          | > I have a vague recollection of seeing a process somewhere on cutting
          | > metric threads on an Atlas lathe without having to reverse the motor.
          | > I can't find it in any archives.
          | >
          | > I want to put a 52 - .75mm thread on a chunk of metal to convert my
          | > telephoto lenses into telescopes, and my Atlas 6x18 doesn't have a
          | > reversing switch on the motor. I suppose that given the fine
          | > (shallow) threads, I could try to cut the thread to depth in one pass.
          | >
          | > Any other suggestions?
          | >
          | > Thanks,
          | > Ed Bailen
          | >
          | >
          | >
          | > TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
          | > You do this yourself by sending a message to:
          | > atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
          | >
          | > Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
          | http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
          | >
          | > To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
          | http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
          | > Yahoo! Groups Links
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          | >
          | >
          | >
          |
          |
          |
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        • n8as1@aol.com
          In a message dated 3/3/2004 4:31:50 PM Central Standard Time, ... reverse lathe by pulling on spindle belt....u must keep 1/2 nuts engaged (unless u want to
          Message 4 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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            In a message dated 3/3/2004 4:31:50 PM Central Standard Time,
            spurrs@... writes:

            > If the length of thread is not too long, back the tool off and wind the
            > spindle back by hand
            >
            > ----- Original Message -----
            >

            reverse lathe by pulling on spindle belt....u must keep 1/2 nuts engaged
            (unless u want to get REALLY involved)

            u will get a ROUGH thrd & inaccurate by hogging ....need to finish w/ .001
            to clean up & take out spring .......

            if really pigheaded abt it , u could "pick up " the thread each time .....by
            engaging 1/2nuts, using compound /xslide to reposition tool .....u need to
            learn how to do this ,but hopefully another method so u dont have to do it 20
            times on one thread .

            if leads are there ( reversible mtr....u probably dont want to dig in & break
            into the starter leads of a non reversible one),easiest is to pull them out
            of mtr. & just put a reverse/forward switch at mtr................my wards
            /logan has a toggle reversing sw. mounted on wards mtr.

            u can also reverse w/ a plain 2 prong plug/receptacle ...did that on a 6x18
            ,that i gave to my least son.....( just paint it red so confusion doesent
            reign )

            best wishes
            docn8as


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • dswr@webtv.net
            Ron, If I understand the thread correctly, it does not concern left handed threads. It is normal right handed threads... but, metric, instead of SAE. You
            Message 5 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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              Ron,

              If I understand the "thread" correctly, it does not concern left handed
              threads.

              It is normal right handed threads... but, metric, instead of SAE. You
              can't open the half nuts once they are engaged. If you do you loose the
              alignment of the thread and the tool. (the threading dial can't be
              relied on with metric)

              To get to the start of the threads for the next pass, you have to run
              the spindle in reverse. (bummer, if you have a long thread and no
              reverse on the motor)

              Leo (pearland, tx)
            • Ronald R Brandenburg
              Hey Leo, Sounds like doing something that the machine wasn t intended, or made, to do. So what s done is the lathe is turned off as it gets to the end of the
              Message 6 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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                Hey Leo,

                Sounds like doing something that the machine wasn't
                intended, or made, to do. So what's done is the lathe is turned off as it
                gets to the end of the thread, the cross feed is backed of, and the lathe is
                turned/run in reverse to get to the beginning of the thread where the cross
                feed is returned to a cutting position plus whatever the cut is and another
                pass is made. This process is repeated till the desired depth is achieved.
                Is that close? What a pain!

                Ron...
                Craftsman Commercial 12" X 36"
                '78 Honda CB750K
                Fort Worth, Texas
                Ron_SSSS@...

                ----- Original Message -----
                From: <dswr@...>
                To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 7:24 PM
                Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Metric Threads w/o Reversing?


                | Ron,
                |
                | If I understand the "thread" correctly, it does not concern left handed
                | threads.
                |
                | It is normal right handed threads... but, metric, instead of SAE. You
                | can't open the half nuts once they are engaged. If you do you loose the
                | alignment of the thread and the tool. (the threading dial can't be
                | relied on with metric)
                |
                | To get to the start of the threads for the next pass, you have to run
                | the spindle in reverse. (bummer, if you have a long thread and no
                | reverse on the motor)
                |
                | Leo (pearland, tx)
                |
                |
                |
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              • xlch58@swbell.net
                This was standard practice for all lathes prior to the invention threading of the thread indicator. It is still required by many older lathes that lacked
                Message 7 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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                  This was standard practice for all lathes prior to the invention
                  threading of the thread indicator. It is still required by many older
                  lathes that lacked threading indicators and for some thread leads that
                  can't be handled by the indicators like11.5 per inch.

                  Charles

                  Ronald R Brandenburg wrote:

                  >Hey Leo,
                  >
                  > Sounds like doing something that the machine wasn't
                  >intended, or made, to do. So what's done is the lathe is turned off as it
                  >gets to the end of the thread, the cross feed is backed of, and the lathe is
                  >turned/run in reverse to get to the beginning of the thread where the cross
                  >feed is returned to a cutting position plus whatever the cut is and another
                  >pass is made. This process is repeated till the desired depth is achieved.
                  >Is that close? What a pain!
                  >
                  >Ron...
                  >Craftsman Commercial 12" X 36"
                  >'78 Honda CB750K
                  >Fort Worth, Texas
                  >Ron_SSSS@...
                  >
                  >----- Original Message -----
                  >From: <dswr@...>
                  >To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                  >Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 7:24 PM
                  >Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Metric Threads w/o Reversing?
                  >
                  >
                  >| Ron,
                  >|
                  >| If I understand the "thread" correctly, it does not concern left handed
                  >| threads.
                  >|
                  >| It is normal right handed threads... but, metric, instead of SAE. You
                  >| can't open the half nuts once they are engaged. If you do you loose the
                  >| alignment of the thread and the tool. (the threading dial can't be
                  >| relied on with metric)
                  >|
                  >| To get to the start of the threads for the next pass, you have to run
                  >| the spindle in reverse. (bummer, if you have a long thread and no
                  >| reverse on the motor)
                  >|
                  >| Leo (pearland, tx)
                  >|
                  >|
                  >|
                  >| TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
                  >| You do this yourself by sending a message to:
                  >| atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                  >|
                  >| Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
                  >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
                  >|
                  >| To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
                  >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
                  >| Yahoo! Groups Links
                  >|
                  >|
                  >|
                  >|
                  >|
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
                  >You do this yourself by sending a message to:
                  >atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                  >
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                  >
                  >To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
                  >Yahoo! Groups Links
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                • n8as1@aol.com
                  In a message dated 3/3/2004 9:43:07 PM Central Standard Time, ... true ! .....& worse yet ,some EARLY lathes had solid nuts ...........but thrds can be
                  Message 8 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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                    In a message dated 3/3/2004 9:43:07 PM Central Standard Time,
                    xlch58@... writes:

                    > This was standard practice for all lathes prior to the invention
                    > threading of the thread indicator. It is still required by many older
                    > lathes that lacked threading indicators and for some thread leads that
                    > can't be handled by the indicators like11.5 per inch.
                    >
                    > Charles
                    >

                    true ! .....& worse yet ,some EARLY lathes had solid nuts ...........but
                    thrds can be "caught " by setting a solid carriage stop at point where 1/2 nut
                    engaged & putting a chalk mark on chuck at dead top center , or dogplate
                    notating top center ,starting & re engaging at that point , in the absence of
                    thrd indicator.(for those still suffering sans thrd indicator..)...& with any
                    multiple of ,or the original lead screw TPI, just throwin the 1/2 nut at
                    anyplace u can ......BUT WILL NOT WORK w/ metric ......keep engaged (or do some
                    fierce calculation as to how far back u have to set a stop to multiply out to a
                    whole TPI no.)

                    seem to remember that 1/2 pitch thrds can be caught w/ the thrd indicator on
                    my 6 & 12 in crftsmn ,(cut some garden hose thrds in another life) as well as
                    the indicator i made for my 1895 antique ( still fun to wrk occaisionally as
                    they did 100 yrs ago ....rule, spring calipers,( u CAN feel .001) no mic ,no
                    dials ,catch a thrd ....really proves out that skill is gained thru repetetive
                    physical effort......reading & knowledge alone ,"dont cut it" ).....oh yeah,
                    put on ur 4-jaw also,....& if ur really into it ,face off a shaft on
                    centers w/dog laced to faceplate & a stdy on outboard end...... get some W-1
                    carbon steel & make ur own flat drills , flat reamers ,lathe bits , cutters,
                    counterbores, reamers etc. ....there is a whole world of olde tyme technology out
                    there that is currently germane for HSM's . get some scrap auto coil /leaf
                    springs & thro off the industrial supply chains that bind u .(oops ,maybe i
                    heard something similar to that on a soapbox in the dim past)..............

                    best wishes
                    docn8as



                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Jon Elson
                    ... Hmm, I can imaginge some ways to get the spindle and leadscrew back in alignment, but they would still be pretty tricky. You d have to mark the chuck,
                    Message 9 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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                      n5kzw wrote:

                      >I have a vague recollection of seeing a process somewhere on cutting
                      >metric threads on an Atlas lathe without having to reverse the motor.
                      >I can't find it in any archives.
                      >
                      >
                      Hmm, I can imaginge some ways to get the spindle and leadscrew back in
                      alignment, but they would still be pretty tricky. You'd have to mark the
                      chuck, leadscrew and carriage, and fiddle with the gear train until all
                      marks
                      lined up perfectly, then go to the same threading dial reading and make a
                      2nd pass.

                      >I want to put a 52 - .75mm thread on a chunk of metal to convert my
                      >telephoto lenses into telescopes, and my Atlas 6x18 doesn't have a
                      >reversing switch on the motor. I suppose that given the fine
                      >(shallow) threads, I could try to cut the thread to depth in one pass.
                      >
                      >
                      You definitely could thread mill in one pass, maybe with a Dremel in the
                      toolpost holding a small 60 degree Vee cutter. I think cutting a .75 mm
                      thread in one pass is going to be difficult.

                      Jon
                    • Ronald R Brandenburg
                      Or you could engage the feed under power, turn off the power, match the tool to the cut, and turn the power back on. I would think that would be simpler than
                      Message 10 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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                        Or you could engage the feed under power, turn off the power, match the tool
                        to the cut, and turn the power back on. I would think that would be simpler
                        than running the lathe in reverse or turning the spindle backwards by hand
                        where you run the risk of problems with gear backlash [slop?] if you're not
                        careful. Just a thought.

                        Ron...
                        Craftsman Commercial 12" X 36"
                        '78 Honda CB750K
                        Fort Worth, Texas
                        Ron_SSSS@...

                        ----- Original Message -----
                        From: "Jon Elson" <elson@...>
                        To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                        Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 11:52 PM
                        Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Metric Threads w/o Reversing?


                        |
                        |
                        | n5kzw wrote:
                        |
                        | >I have a vague recollection of seeing a process somewhere on cutting
                        | >metric threads on an Atlas lathe without having to reverse the motor.
                        | >I can't find it in any archives.
                        | >
                        | >
                        | Hmm, I can imaginge some ways to get the spindle and leadscrew back in
                        | alignment, but they would still be pretty tricky. You'd have to mark the
                        | chuck, leadscrew and carriage, and fiddle with the gear train until all
                        | marks
                        | lined up perfectly, then go to the same threading dial reading and make a
                        | 2nd pass.
                        |
                        | >I want to put a 52 - .75mm thread on a chunk of metal to convert my
                        | >telephoto lenses into telescopes, and my Atlas 6x18 doesn't have a
                        | >reversing switch on the motor. I suppose that given the fine
                        | >(shallow) threads, I could try to cut the thread to depth in one pass.
                        | >
                        | >
                        | You definitely could thread mill in one pass, maybe with a Dremel in the
                        | toolpost holding a small 60 degree Vee cutter. I think cutting a .75 mm
                        | thread in one pass is going to be difficult.
                        |
                        | Jon
                        |
                        |
                        |
                        | TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
                        | You do this yourself by sending a message to:
                        | atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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                      • Spurrs
                        If the length of thread is not too long, back the tool off and wind the spindle back by hand ... From: n5kzw To:
                        Message 11 of 17 , Mar 3, 2004
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                          If the length of thread is not too long, back the tool off and wind the
                          spindle back by hand

                          ----- Original Message -----
                          From: "n5kzw" <n5kzw@...>
                          To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                          Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 11:35 AM
                          Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Metric Threads w/o Reversing?


                          > I have a vague recollection of seeing a process somewhere on cutting
                          > metric threads on an Atlas lathe without having to reverse the motor.
                          > I can't find it in any archives.
                          >
                          > I want to put a 52 - .75mm thread on a chunk of metal to convert my
                          > telephoto lenses into telescopes, and my Atlas 6x18 doesn't have a
                          > reversing switch on the motor. I suppose that given the fine
                          > (shallow) threads, I could try to cut the thread to depth in one pass.
                          >
                          > Any other suggestions?
                          >
                          > Thanks,
                          > Ed Bailen
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
                          > You do this yourself by sending a message to:
                          > atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                          >
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                          http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
                          >
                          > To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
                          http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
                          > Yahoo! Groups Links
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                        • xlch58@swbell.net
                          When you reverse the lathe, you pass the end of the thread by an inch or so and then stop and go forward so that any backlash is taken up. I have done what
                          Message 12 of 17 , Mar 4, 2004
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                            When you reverse the lathe, you pass the end of the thread by an inch or
                            so and then stop and go forward so that any backlash is taken up. I
                            have done what you are suggesting when it was necessary to pick up a
                            thread on an item I had to remove from the lathe and replace( my first
                            backplate for a three jaw, held in the four jaw, I tested the thread
                            when I thought it was done, found I had a slight taper from the boring
                            bar deflecting and had to clean it up) I also had to do it once when my
                            lead screw slid free on my big sebastian ( you really have to inpect the
                            previous owners repairs carefully).

                            Turn of the century, when a large thread was cut , a set of calipers was
                            set to the pitch of the thread or a convient multiple. This was then
                            used to make chalk intervals on the top of the bar to be cut. The
                            operator would then turn on the lathe and with the tool close, but not
                            touching the bar, would manually turn the carriage feed timing his
                            movements to the spining bar. After a few trial passes, he would have
                            the appropriate rythym and would do a cut for real. Thereafter, he
                            would simply cut the existing thread deeper by "chasing" it as the lathe
                            ran. I have tried this out of curiosity and it can be done, in fact it
                            is kindov fun. You do not end up with a high class thread, but it looks
                            no worse than the average bolt found rusting away on farm equipment, so
                            I would suppose it is serviceable.


                            Charles

                            Ronald R Brandenburg wrote:

                            >Or you could engage the feed under power, turn off the power, match the tool
                            >to the cut, and turn the power back on. I would think that would be simpler
                            >than running the lathe in reverse or turning the spindle backwards by hand
                            >where you run the risk of problems with gear backlash [slop?] if you're not
                            >careful. Just a thought.
                            >
                            >Ron...
                            >Craftsman Commercial 12" X 36"
                            >'78 Honda CB750K
                            >Fort Worth, Texas
                            >Ron_SSSS@...
                            >
                            >----- Original Message -----
                            >From: "Jon Elson" <elson@...>
                            >To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                            >Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 11:52 PM
                            >Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Metric Threads w/o Reversing?
                            >
                            >
                            >|
                            >|
                            >| n5kzw wrote:
                            >|
                            >| >I have a vague recollection of seeing a process somewhere on cutting
                            >| >metric threads on an Atlas lathe without having to reverse the motor.
                            >| >I can't find it in any archives.
                            >| >
                            >| >
                            >| Hmm, I can imaginge some ways to get the spindle and leadscrew back in
                            >| alignment, but they would still be pretty tricky. You'd have to mark the
                            >| chuck, leadscrew and carriage, and fiddle with the gear train until all
                            >| marks
                            >| lined up perfectly, then go to the same threading dial reading and make a
                            >| 2nd pass.
                            >|
                            >| >I want to put a 52 - .75mm thread on a chunk of metal to convert my
                            >| >telephoto lenses into telescopes, and my Atlas 6x18 doesn't have a
                            >| >reversing switch on the motor. I suppose that given the fine
                            >| >(shallow) threads, I could try to cut the thread to depth in one pass.
                            >| >
                            >| >
                            >| You definitely could thread mill in one pass, maybe with a Dremel in the
                            >| toolpost holding a small 60 degree Vee cutter. I think cutting a .75 mm
                            >| thread in one pass is going to be difficult.
                            >|
                            >| Jon
                            >|
                            >|
                            >|
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                            >|
                            >|
                            >|
                            >|
                            >|
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
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                          • azbruno
                            Given the application you mention, I m assuming the length of the thread will be rather short. For my 618 I made a hand crank for the spindle and do all my
                            Message 13 of 17 , Mar 4, 2004
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                              Given the application you mention, I'm assuming the length of the
                              thread will be rather short.

                              For my 618 I made a hand crank for the spindle and do all my
                              threading that way (also, rather short lengths). I remove the motor
                              belt to eliminate resistance and I can turn either direction easily.
                              It's a lot easier than starting and stopping the motor and enabling
                              the half-nuts on the move. I can be very precise about starting and
                              stopping points and don't have to worry about cutting landing grooves.

                              -Bruno


                              --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "n5kzw" <n5kzw@a...> wrote:
                              > I have a vague recollection of seeing a process somewhere on cutting
                              > metric threads on an Atlas lathe without having to reverse the
                              motor.
                              > I can't find it in any archives.
                              >
                              > I want to put a 52 - .75mm thread on a chunk of metal to convert my
                              > telephoto lenses into telescopes, and my Atlas 6x18 doesn't have a
                              > reversing switch on the motor. I suppose that given the fine
                              > (shallow) threads, I could try to cut the thread to depth in one
                              pass.
                              >
                              > Any other suggestions?
                              >
                              > Thanks,
                              > Ed Bailen
                            • dswr@webtv.net
                              Bruno, I understand members of the 7x10 group use a similar crank method. Could you describe the crank and the way you mount it to the lathe? Thanks, Leo
                              Message 14 of 17 , Mar 4, 2004
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                                Bruno,

                                I understand members of the 7x10 group use a similar crank method.

                                Could you describe the crank and the way you mount it to the lathe?

                                Thanks,

                                Leo (pearland, tx)
                              • William Abernathy
                                ... The preferred method is to take a bar that fits inside the spindle with a generous dollop of slop, and overbore the bar for a bolt you ll pass through it
                                Message 15 of 17 , Mar 4, 2004
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                                  dswr@... wrote:
                                  > Bruno,
                                  >
                                  > I understand members of the 7x10 group use a similar crank method.
                                  >
                                  > Could you describe the crank and the way you mount it to the lathe?

                                  The preferred method is to take a bar that fits inside the spindle with a
                                  generous dollop of slop, and overbore the bar for a bolt you'll pass through it
                                  (say 3/8" bore for a 1/4" bolt). Next make a long diagonal cut like a salami
                                  slice through the bar (a bandsaw comes in handy for this, but you can also
                                  hacksaw and file the edges flat.) Pass your bolt through both halves of the
                                  work, such that there are threads hanging out at the end. Affix a crank handle
                                  to that end. Clamp it all together, loosely, with a nut.

                                  To use it, place the works down the spindle bore at at the head end, and tighten
                                  the nut. This drives the two halves of the bar outward, providing a powerful
                                  wedge grip in the spindle bore, and enable you to turn the spindle by hand. Do
                                  not overtighten this, and you may split the spindle.

                                  You can also see this wedge-type retention device used on bicycles to hold up
                                  the handlebar stem.

                                  I'd recommend the photo in the mini-lathe group to you, but the photos are down
                                  right now. If memory Serves, Mike Taglieri's section has some good photos of
                                  this mod.

                                  --William
                                • azbruno
                                  I put some pictures in the Atlas618lathe group photos section (under Bruno s Lathe folder). It is an expanding mandrel. I made a piece that fits into the back
                                  Message 16 of 17 , Mar 4, 2004
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                                    I put some pictures in the Atlas618lathe group photos section (under
                                    Bruno's Lathe folder).

                                    It is an expanding mandrel. I made a piece that fits into the back of
                                    the spindle with a tapered bore at the end, and 3 slits to allow it
                                    to expand. There's a piece that fits through it with a matching taper
                                    on one end, and threaded on the other end, which sticks out the back
                                    side. I use a wing nut on the end to hand tighten it. I make a crude,
                                    but effective crank for it.

                                    And many thanks to John W. who helped me with this project.

                                    -Bruno

                                    --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, dswr@w... wrote:
                                    > Bruno,
                                    >
                                    > I understand members of the 7x10 group use a similar crank method.
                                    >
                                    > Could you describe the crank and the way you mount it to the lathe?
                                    >
                                    > Thanks,
                                    >
                                    > Leo (pearland, tx)
                                  • dswr@webtv.net
                                    Thanks, Bruno. The pictures give me an idea on how to gen one up, if I ever have a need for one. (gonna avoid those @!![$$d metric threads if i can!) 8-)
                                    Message 17 of 17 , Mar 4, 2004
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                                      Thanks, Bruno.

                                      The pictures give me an idea on how to "gen" one up, if I ever have a
                                      need for one. (gonna avoid those @!![$$d metric threads if i can!) 8-)

                                      Leo (gimme an inch.. and a foot. pearland, tx)
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