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Re: Chip pan - Details

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  • d_c71_2001
    Jay: Forgot to mention, I welded a 3/4-inch hose nipple to the bottom of the Channel/Sump. Cut the hole in it first, then welded the threaded end of the hose
    Message 1 of 1 , Jun 3, 2002
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      Jay:

      Forgot to mention, I welded a 3/4-inch hose nipple to the bottom of
      the Channel/Sump.

      Cut the hole in it first, then welded the threaded end of the hose
      nipple leaving the barbed end exposed for the 3/4-inch clear vinyl
      tubing return line.

      Bought the Hose Nipple and Sealing washers at a local hardware store.
      Bought the 1/8-inch Flat Steel Strip from a local steel supply
      company. Just looked through their scrap ends section and found
      plenty of raw stock, cheap.

      Cut to length with a hack-saw in a vice. Cleaned up with a disk-
      grinder. Drilled the (4) mounting holes in the base plate (around
      8"x30") Tacked, then welded the front/back splash pieces, then the
      tailstock end.

      Drilled hole in the 1x2x8 channel to act as drain. Cut small end
      pieces for the channel and welded them in place to seal them off.

      Welded the channel to the bottom end of the pan. It hangs below the
      rest of the pan off the headstock end, so the gear door can swing out
      unobstructed, yet the coolant is contained.

      Derek C.

      --------------------------------------------------------------------


      --- In atlas_craftsman@y..., "d_c71_2001" <d_c71_2001@y...> wrote:
      > Jay:
      >
      > Did you check out the Photos I posted in the "Photo" section? I
      > posted two.
      >
      > I used Sealing-Washers (cupped SS washer with Rubber washer
      attached)
      > and some silicone sealer for insurance under the lathe mounting
      bolts.
      >
      > The coolant return line is some 3/4-inch flexible Vinyl tubeing. I
      > cut a hole in a piece of channel that I mounted at the headstock
      end
      > of the pan. The channel (1"x 2") acts as a sump and allowed the end
      > to be low enough for lead-screw gear door opening.
      >
      > The back splash is 8-inches high and angled out at around 60-
      degrees,
      > but knotched at the headstock end for belt clearance/gear door
      > opening.
      >
      > The front splash guard is 3-inches high and angled out at around 45-
      > degrees easily clearing the carriage hangles, etc.
      >
      > E-Mail me if you need any more info. I basically fabricated it by
      > hand with the plan in my head. Had to think through a solution to
      > allow the gear door to open (without leaking coolant) and carriage
      > handle clearance, but basically hand fitted it together.
      >
      > Painted it and it came out really nice. Looks good and very
      > functional.
      >
      > Bought a commercial-type SS 1-gallon pneumatic coolant sprayer
      years
      > back. It has a small door on top that the coolant return line
      passes
      > through.
      >
      > Derek C.
      >
      > --------------------------------------------------------------------
      >
      > --- In atlas_craftsman@y..., Jay & Anne Greer <redwitch1@e...>
      wrote:
      > > Derek,
      > > This is what I have been thinking of as I may want to use a
      coolant
      > pump in
      > > the future. Yes, any more details you might be able to offer
      would
      > be
      > > appreciated. How did you seal around the mounting bolts?
      > > I look forward to hearing more.
      > > Thanks,
      > > Jay
      > >
      > > > From: "d_c71_2001" <d_c71_2001@y...>
      > > > Reply-To: atlas_craftsman@y...
      > > > Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 17:22:30 -0000
      > > > To: atlas_craftsman@y...
      > > > Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Chip pan
      > > >
      > > > Jay:
      > > >
      > > > Many people have used drip pans available from Autoparts
      Stores.
      > If
      > > > your lathe is on a bench, that would likely work out fine. If
      it's
      > > > just for chips and a little oil, that should be fine.
      > > >
      > > > My Atlas 618 came with its original legs/stand and was mounted
      to
      > > > (original) 2-inch thick hardwood plank.
      > > >
      > > > About two months back, I fabricated a Chip/Coolant catch pan
      from
      > 1/8-
      > > > inch steel sheet using my MIG welder.
      > > >
      > > > I cut a base the same size as the 2-inch plank, then cut sides,
      > back,
      > > > front to act as splash guards. I angled front and back and made
      > cut-
      > > > outs to allow for lead-screw gear door cover swing-out/opening.
      > > >
      > > > Created a sump to allow lubricant/coolant to drain back into SS
      > Tank
      > > > on the shelf under the lathe from a section of steel channel and
      > > > welded a pipe nipple to the underside to attatch a return line.
      > > >
      > > > Will post a photo in the "Photos" section. It actually turned
      out
      > > > really well. The angled front deflector does not interfere with
      > the
      > > > operation of crank handles.
      > > >
      > > > Let me know if you need any other details/info if interrested.
      > Good
      > > > luck with yours.
      > > >
      > > > Derek C.
      > > >
      > > > --- In atlas_craftsman@y..., "breaktimber" <redwitch1@e...>
      wrote:
      > > >> Hi Guys,
      > > >> Do any of you have any suggestions on obtaining or making a
      > > >> chip pan to fit under an Atlas 618?
      > > >> Regards,
      > > >> Jay Greer
      > > >
      > > >
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      > > >
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