Yes, I discovered both groups at the same time while looking for AA
info. Good info on morse taper. I had considered trying to set the
compound trial & error to bore it in place on the AA, but a reamer
makes good sense. My first lathe was a 6x18 atlas, the first thing I
ever made was a drill chuck arbor for the tailstock. It must have
taken me a week, and at least half of that time was getting the
correct angle on the compound. I'll have to check the spindle
bushing i.d., I bet I have the same problem you did. Gee, you
answered every question I had. Now I'm out of excuses, better get
Thanks a million,
--- In atlas_craftsman@y..., "jerdal" <jerdal@c...> wrote:
> Well, I did all my work on an old Logan, so I can relate. Are you
> Logan lathe-list group?
> In fact, I roughed it and used a Morse reamer. I step-drilled to
> my boring bars are not that small.
> If the bushing spun, it may have been over-tightened and clamped on
> spindle. I had to ream mine out, (piloted adjustable reamer)
because it was
> worn bell-mouthed, and could not be tightened enough to keep down
> without locking on. Worth a check. The 109 is prone to chatter
> light-duty snall cuts are the rule of the day. Not the easiest to
> but lots of us have.
> Morse tapers are not so hard, especially if you are matching one,
> making a collet closer, where you indicate on the inside of your
> Just a pain to indicate in on the compound. And you gotta get it
> perfect, ot it won't be tight. Dial can't have any trend off your
> you indicate.