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Re: [atlas_craftsman] Tailstock question

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  • Randy
    Kevin: I believe the tang is for removing the MT from an adapter or drill press or mill that uses MT bits or holders. You use a removal wedge thru the slot in
    Message 1 of 13 , Nov 1, 2001
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      Kevin:

      I believe the tang is for removing the MT from an adapter or drill press
      or mill that uses MT bits or holders. You use a removal wedge thru the slot
      in the adapter or shaft. Somebody correct me if I am wrong but I have never
      seen any tailstock with a slot for the tang.

      Randy Pedersen
      Atlas 618
      South Bend 9" A
      South Bend 9" C
      rpedersen@...

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      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Koepke, Kevin" <kkoepke@...>
      To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 1:26 PM
      Subject: RE: [atlas_craftsman] Tailstock question


      > This is typical, and a practical way of removing the chuck. Use the 1.0"
      > mark as "0" when boring (burn one), and yes, the tang is to eliminate
      > spining , as well as, taking the wedge in vertical operations.
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: john.vanbrocklin2@... [mailto:john.vanbrocklin2@...]
      > Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 1:16 PM
      > To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Tailstock question
      >
      >
      > I have a 101.07301 6". It came with a Jacobs chuck mounted on a MT1
      > adapter for the tailstock. The adapter has a flat tang on the end.
      > It will only seat correctly if the tailstock is extendend to about
      > 3/4" looking at the graduation markings. If the tailstock is
      > backdowned to '0', it forces the adapter forward and out of it's seat.
      >
      > I have seen MT1 reamers and drills with a tang. I guess the question
      > is, should MT1 attachments with a tang work with the tailstock of the
      > 6" set to '0'?
      >
      > Also, is a tang necessary to keep the chuck (or drill bit) from
      > turning in the tailstock? I have only used mine for light drilling
      > and have not had any problems so far.
      >
      > John Van Brocklin
      >
      >
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    • Koepke, Kevin
      That s correct. When I said vertical operations, I meant a mill or drill press. ... From: Randy [mailto:rpedersen@kscable.com] Sent: Thursday, November 01,
      Message 2 of 13 , Nov 1, 2001
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        That's correct. When I said vertical operations, I meant a mill or drill
        press.

        -----Original Message-----
        From: Randy [mailto:rpedersen@...]
        Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 4:34 PM
        To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Tailstock question


        Kevin:

        I believe the tang is for removing the MT from an adapter or drill press
        or mill that uses MT bits or holders. You use a removal wedge thru the slot
        in the adapter or shaft. Somebody correct me if I am wrong but I have never
        seen any tailstock with a slot for the tang.

        Randy Pedersen
        Atlas 618
        South Bend 9" A
        South Bend 9" C
        rpedersen@...

        Support anti-Spam legislation.
        Join the fight http://www.cauce.org/
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: "Koepke, Kevin" <kkoepke@...>
        To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 1:26 PM
        Subject: RE: [atlas_craftsman] Tailstock question


        > This is typical, and a practical way of removing the chuck. Use the 1.0"
        > mark as "0" when boring (burn one), and yes, the tang is to eliminate
        > spining , as well as, taking the wedge in vertical operations.
        >
        > -----Original Message-----
        > From: john.vanbrocklin2@... [mailto:john.vanbrocklin2@...]
        > Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 1:16 PM
        > To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
        > Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Tailstock question
        >
        >
        > I have a 101.07301 6". It came with a Jacobs chuck mounted on a MT1
        > adapter for the tailstock. The adapter has a flat tang on the end.
        > It will only seat correctly if the tailstock is extendend to about
        > 3/4" looking at the graduation markings. If the tailstock is
        > backdowned to '0', it forces the adapter forward and out of it's seat.
        >
        > I have seen MT1 reamers and drills with a tang. I guess the question
        > is, should MT1 attachments with a tang work with the tailstock of the
        > 6" set to '0'?
        >
        > Also, is a tang necessary to keep the chuck (or drill bit) from
        > turning in the tailstock? I have only used mine for light drilling
        > and have not had any problems so far.
        >
        > John Van Brocklin
        >
        >
        > TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
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        >
        >
        >
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        >
        >
        > TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
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        >
        >


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      • S1
        All MT accessories come a standard length. Drill bits, chuck arbors...etc. might have tang because if you use adapter sleaves (I.E. #3MT Outside, #2 MT inside
        Message 3 of 13 , Nov 1, 2001
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          All MT accessories come a standard length. Drill bits, chuck arbors...etc.
          might have tang because if you use adapter sleaves (I.E. #3MT Outside, #2 MT
          inside diameter) the tang keeps it from rotating and provides a nice hardened
          end to use the taper drifts on, without damaging the arbor. Small lathes often
          have shorter-than-standard length tapered holes because of constrains concerning
          the size of the tailstock. On the 7X10/12 mini-lathes, the tailstock is a #2
          MT, but it is very short. Whenever I buy tooling for that lathe's tailstock, I
          end up lopping 1" off the end of the morse tapered tool so it takes up less
          space over the short bed on that machine. I haven't had any problems with
          slipping with any tool I've shortened the shank on.
          -Gabe
        • sleykin@aol.com
          You don t need the tang on the tailstock chuck. The original has no tang and is a bit shorter so yes shorten it so it will still eject when you run the
          Message 4 of 13 , Nov 1, 2001
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            You don't need the tang on the tailstock chuck. The original has no tang and
            is a bit shorter so yes shorten it so it will still eject when you run the
            tailstock back but short enough to get to the 0 mark. You do need to have a
            clean bore and the taper should be clean with no burrs or oil on it. MT's
            are self holding tapers.

            Glenn

            In a message dated 11/1/01 11:20:28 AM Pacific Standard Time,
            john.vanbrocklin2@... writes:

            > I have a 101.07301 6". It came with a Jacobs chuck mounted on a MT1
            > adapter for the tailstock. The adapter has a flat tang on the end.
            > It will only seat correctly if the tailstock is extendend to about
            > 3/4" looking at the graduation markings. If the tailstock is
            > backdowned to '0', it forces the adapter forward and out of it's seat.
            >
            > I have seen MT1 reamers and drills with a tang. I guess the question
            > is, should MT1 attachments with a tang work with the tailstock of the
            > 6" set to '0'?
            >
            > Also, is a tang necessary to keep the chuck (or drill bit) from
            > turning in the tailstock? I have only used mine for light drilling
            > and have not had any problems so far.
            >
            > John Van Brocklin
            >
          • anthrhodes@aol.com
            In a message dated Thu, 1 Nov 2001 16:34:08 -0600, Randy Pedersen writes:
            Message 5 of 13 , Nov 1, 2001
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              In a message dated Thu, 1 Nov 2001 16:34:08 -0600, Randy Pedersen writes:

              << I believe the tang is for removing the MT from an adapter or drill press
              or mill that uses MT bits or holders. You use a removal wedge thru the slot
              in the adapter or shaft. Somebody correct me if I am wrong but I have never
              seen any tailstock with a slot for the tang. >>

              Lathe tailstocks don't ususally have the socket adapted to drive the tang but
              drill press quills sometimes do. And as you noted they usually have a slot
              through which to use the removal wedge. As Morse tapers in particular appear
              to have originated for self hold on large drill bits and to have been adapted
              to the lathe because they were convenient for the purpose, slight
              inconsistencies in their function for the lathe application have to be
              accepted within that historical development.

              Regarding the tang on a chuck arbor, it's possible that you could shorten it
              a bit so that it wouldn't eject until the tailstock quill had been retracted
              almost all the way in but be careful. If you shorten it too much the arbor
              will never self eject and you'll have to dismantle the tailstock to use an
              alternative approach to eject it. Also, after such alteration, you cant use
              it on a drill press because you now have no means of removing it (the wedge
              has nothing to bear against).

              Anthony
              Berkeley, Calif.
            • S1
              On all the arbors I ve shortened, they are religated for use with my lathe. I shortened my drill chuck arbor to much, but I just place the tailstock wrench
              Message 6 of 13 , Nov 2, 2001
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                On all the arbors I've shortened, they are religated for use with my lathe. I
                shortened my drill chuck arbor to much, but I just place the tailstock wrench
                between the chuck and the tailstock casting and it pops out when I pull the
                tailstock quill back. A Dead center would be a nightmare to remove it that was
                to short.....
                The only lathe accessory I use on my mill is the dead center as the mill also has
                a #2 morse taper spindle. The mill has a hollow spindle so I just run a steel
                bar through the top and lightly tap it with a hammer. The dead center makes an
                excellent tap wrench guide on a mill with very little room between the head and
                coordinate table.
                -Gabe


                > Regarding the tang on a chuck arbor, it's possible that you could shorten it
                > a bit so that it wouldn't eject until the tailstock quill had been retracted
                > almost all the way in but be careful. If you shorten it too much the arbor
                > will never self eject and you'll have to dismantle the tailstock to use an
                > alternative approach to eject it. Also, after such alteration, you cant use
                > it on a drill press because you now have no means of removing it (the wedge
                > has nothing to bear against).
              • catboat15@aol.com
                In a message dated 11/1/01 4:58:50 PM Pacific Standard Time, ... Just be sure the taper and socket are clean and dry. [Non-text portions of this message have
                Message 7 of 13 , Nov 3, 2001
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                  In a message dated 11/1/01 4:58:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
                  gmdagena@... writes:


                  > . I haven't had any problems with
                  > slipping with any tool I've shortened the shank on.
                  >

                  Just be sure the taper and socket are clean and dry.


                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • S1
                  I bought a a Taper Mate from Grizzly Industrial. I use it to clean the tailstock taper each time between tool changes. I recommend them to anybody who
                  Message 8 of 13 , Nov 4, 2001
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                    I bought a a "Taper Mate" from Grizzly Industrial. I use it to clean the
                    tailstock taper each time between tool changes. I recommend them to anybody
                    who has a lathe of any sort.
                    -Gabe

                    catboat15@... wrote:

                    > In a message dated 11/1/01 4:58:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
                    > gmdagena@... writes:
                    >
                    > > . I haven't had any problems with
                    > > slipping with any tool I've shortened the shank on.
                    > >
                    >
                    > Just be sure the taper and socket are clean and dry.
                    >
                    > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    >
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                    >
                    >
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                  • Chris Difani
                    The TaperMate is also available at any WoodCraft store, for MT s 1, 2, and 3, for $9.99, $12.50, and $14.99 respectively. As Gabe says, they are an excellent
                    Message 9 of 13 , Nov 4, 2001
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                      The TaperMate is also available at any WoodCraft store, for MT's 1, 2, and
                      3, for $9.99, $12.50, and $14.99 respectively. As Gabe says, they are an
                      excellent cleaning tool.

                      Chris

                      cdifani@...
                      Sacramento, CA
                      Between San Francisco and Lake Tahoe in Northern California


                      ----- Original Message -----
                      From: "S1" <gmdagena@...>
                      To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
                      Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 1:00 AM
                      Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Tailstock question


                      > I bought a a "Taper Mate" from Grizzly Industrial. I use it to clean the
                      > tailstock taper each time between tool changes. I recommend them to
                      anybody
                      > who has a lathe of any sort.
                      > -Gabe
                      >
                      > catboat15@... wrote:
                      >
                      > > In a message dated 11/1/01 4:58:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
                      > > gmdagena@... writes:
                      > >
                      > > > . I haven't had any problems with
                      > > > slipping with any tool I've shortened the shank on.
                      > > >
                      > >
                      > > Just be sure the taper and socket are clean and dry.
                      > >
                      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      > >
                      > > TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
                      > > You do this yourself by sending a message to:
                      > > atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                      http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                      >
                      >
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                      >
                      >
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