Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [atlas_craftsman] Problem with adjustments

Expand Messages
  • Jon Elson
    ... i used to have a 10 Atlas, and the compound was really the weak link on that lathe. There just isn t enough metal on it. The swivel base is usually OK,
    Message 1 of 11 , Sep 2, 2001
    • 0 Attachment
      larry ice wrote:

      > Morning fellow Atlas owners
      > I have a problem with my 10" Atlas lathe I. certain many of you might
      > provide some info on. My 10" lathe appeared almost new when I bought it
      > last year and usually I am well satisified with the performance. Last
      > night however, I was turning an aluminum spacer for a Hudson straight
      > eight motor and I had a problem with chatter. I solved that with the
      > info on the chatter thread but later found the compound rest had
      > loosened to the point that I could detect serious movement. The power
      > cross feed appears ok but the tool post holder feed is really loose.
      > Perviously I had taken it off and cleaned everything before reassy. It
      > worked fine til now. I did have trouble adjusting the small acme thread
      > screw with the lock nut and handle to remove any slack although I
      > thought I had done the adjustment correctly. Guess not as this movement
      > has now returned and I wanted to get some advice before readjusting it.
      > I would appreciate any help from your experience. Iceman

      i used to have a 10" Atlas, and the compound was really the weak link
      on that lathe. There just isn't enough metal on it.

      The swivel base is usually OK, but you might pull it off and see if any
      swarf has worked under it. It has a longer lever arm from the tool tip,
      so if anything gets under it, it can rock easily.

      The dovetail slide is awfully small, and if the sides of the slide don't
      mate well over a good length, then the whole thing is sloppy. There isn't
      much to do but rescrape it! If the dovetail is loose enough that leadscrew
      backlash is causing trouble, then you need to tighten the gib screws.
      Because of the weakness of the slide, I kept the compound gib screws
      very tight most of the time.

      Anyway, slack in the leadscrew handles is not a serious problem.
      The wedging action of the lock nuts eventually work them loose, so you
      have to readjust every once in a while. You can't get all backlash out,
      as some is in the Acme nut, too.

      If you use the lantern-style toolpost, there is a shoulder screw in the
      bottom
      of the toolpost body that holds it to the T-plate. This screw can get
      loose, or the shoulder can wear, or the screw can pull apart. I used to
      tighten down the toolpost on my 10" that I broke this screw. I realized
      it was going, and was able to get it to hold together just long enough
      to make a new screw. I later replaced the whole toolpost with a dovetail
      quick-change toolpost. I will never go back! That was the single most
      important upgrade I did. It made an enormous improvement in stiffness
      of the lathe, as well as saving a great deal of time in setting tool height.

      One other Atlas trouble area is the gibs hidden UNDER the carriage, that
      keep the carriage from lifting up off the bed. This is usually only a
      problem
      when using a cutoff tool, where the infeed force is very high. There are
      laminated shims that set the height of the gib plate. If there is much
      looseness, you can peel a shim off. I use aluminum foil as a finer shim
      adjustment.

      Jon
    • Jeff Swann
      I d like to ask what brand and size QC toolposts you folks have used for the 10-F, I d like to replace the lantern post soon on mine and would appreciate the
      Message 2 of 11 , Sep 2, 2001
      • 0 Attachment
        I'd like to ask what brand and size QC toolposts you
        folks have used for the 10-F, I'd like to replace the
        lantern post soon on mine and would appreciate the
        suggestions !
        Thanks & Best Regards JA Swann

        --- Jon Elson <elson@...> wrote:

        I later replaced the whole
        > toolpost with a dovetail
        > quick-change toolpost

        __________________________________________________
        Do You Yahoo!?
        Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
        http://im.yahoo.com
      • doogdoog@hawaii.rr.com
        Aloha, I have the Phase II AXA for my 12 and I am very happy with it. Travers tool co. has them on sale now and the AXA piston is $133.99 and the AXA wedge is
        Message 3 of 11 , Sep 2, 2001
        • 0 Attachment
          Aloha, I have the Phase II AXA for my 12" and I am very happy with it.
          Travers tool co. has them on sale now and the AXA piston is $133.99
          and the AXA wedge is $163.99 and they come with 5 tool holders. They
          also have other sizes available and I am just a happy customer. I also
          bought the BXA wedge for my 13" and am happy with that too. If you
          need the dimensions for the tool post email me and I will scan it to
          you. doogdoog#@... leave out the # sign.

          Mahalo,
          Howard

          --- In atlas_craftsman@y..., Jeff Swann <tackweld@y...> wrote:
          > I'd like to ask what brand and size QC toolposts you
          > folks have used for the 10-F, I'd like to replace the
          > lantern post soon on mine and would appreciate the
          > suggestions !
          > Thanks & Best Regards JA Swann
          >
          > --- Jon Elson <elson@p...> wrote:
          >
          > I later replaced the whole
          > > toolpost with a dovetail
          > > quick-change toolpost
          >
          > __________________________________________________
          > Do You Yahoo!?
          > Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo!
          Messenger
          > http://im.yahoo.com
        • Mario L Vitale
          Howard, I m not real familiar with these dovetail quick change tool posts, but understand the benefit of a fixed center height. What is the difference between
          Message 4 of 11 , Sep 2, 2001
          • 0 Attachment
            Howard,
            I'm not real familiar with these dovetail quick change tool posts, but
            understand the benefit of a fixed center height. What is the difference
            between the "piston type" and "wedge type"? What are the pro's / con's of
            each? Any opinions out there? (silly question)
            Thanx,
            Mario
            ----- Original Message -----
            From: <doogdoog@...>
            To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 3:51 PM
            Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Q.C. Toolpost For 10-F Atlas


            > Aloha, I have the Phase II AXA for my 12" and I am very happy with it.
            > Travers tool co. has them on sale now and the AXA piston is $133.99
            > and the AXA wedge is $163.99 and they come with 5 tool holders. They
            > also have other sizes available and I am just a happy customer. I also
            > bought the BXA wedge for my 13" and am happy with that too. If you
            > need the dimensions for the tool post email me and I will scan it to
            > you. doogdoog#@... leave out the # sign.
            >
            > Mahalo,
            > Howard
            >
            > --- In atlas_craftsman@y..., Jeff Swann <tackweld@y...> wrote:
            > > I'd like to ask what brand and size QC toolposts you
            > > folks have used for the 10-F, I'd like to replace the
            > > lantern post soon on mine and would appreciate the
            > > suggestions !
            > > Thanks & Best Regards JA Swann
            > >
            > > --- Jon Elson <elson@p...> wrote:
            > >
            > > I later replaced the whole
            > > > toolpost with a dovetail
            > > > quick-change toolpost
            > >
            > > __________________________________________________
            > > Do You Yahoo!?
            > > Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo!
            > Messenger
            > > http://im.yahoo.com
            >
            >
            > TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
            > You do this yourself by sending a message to:
            > atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
            >
            >
            >
            > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            >
            >
            >
          • doogdoog@hawaii.rr.com
            Aloha, Piston: The piston type has a piston which moves out from the side of the tool post when the handle is turned to tighten. The tool holder has dove tails
            Message 5 of 11 , Sep 2, 2001
            • 0 Attachment
              Aloha,
              Piston: The piston type has a piston which moves out from the side of
              the tool post when the handle is turned to tighten. The tool holder
              has dove tails cut into the sides and this slides over the male dove
              tails on the tool post so the piston pushes on the tool holder to
              secure it.

              Wedge: The wedge type uses the same type tool holder but the tool post
              has a moveable male dove tail which moves up and down vertically at a
              slight taper when the handle is turned so it wedges the tool holder
              and the tool post dove tail to secure it. The wedge type is the better
              of the two. Hope this helps.

              Mahalo,
              Howard





              --- In atlas_craftsman@y..., "Mario L Vitale" <mariol.vitale@w...>
              wrote:
              > Howard,
              > I'm not real familiar with these dovetail quick change tool
              posts, but
              > understand the benefit of a fixed center height. What is the
              difference
              > between the "piston type" and "wedge type"? What are the pro's /
              con's of
              > each? Any opinions out there? (silly question)
              > Thanx,
              > Mario
              > ----- Original Message -----
              > From: <doogdoog@h...>
              > To: <atlas_craftsman@y...>
              > Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 3:51 PM
              > Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Q.C. Toolpost For 10-F Atlas
              >
              >
              > > Aloha, I have the Phase II AXA for my 12" and I am very happy with
              it.
              > > Travers tool co. has them on sale now and the AXA piston is
              $133.99
              > > and the AXA wedge is $163.99 and they come with 5 tool holders.
              They
              > > also have other sizes available and I am just a happy customer. I
              also
              > > bought the BXA wedge for my 13" and am happy with that too. If you
              > > need the dimensions for the tool post email me and I will scan it
              to
              > > you. doogdoog#@... leave out the # sign.
              > >
              > > Mahalo,
              > > Howard
              > >
              > > --- In atlas_craftsman@y..., Jeff Swann <tackweld@y...> wrote:
              > > > I'd like to ask what brand and size QC toolposts you
              > > > folks have used for the 10-F, I'd like to replace the
              > > > lantern post soon on mine and would appreciate the
              > > > suggestions !
              > > > Thanks & Best Regards JA Swann
              > > >
              > > > --- Jon Elson <elson@p...> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > I later replaced the whole
              > > > > toolpost with a dovetail
              > > > > quick-change toolpost
              > > >
              > > > __________________________________________________
              > > > Do You Yahoo!?
              > > > Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with
              Yahoo!
              > > Messenger
              > > > http://im.yahoo.com
              > >
              > >
              > > TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
              > > You do this yourself by sending a message to:
              > > atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@y...
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
              http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
              > >
              > >
              > >
            • Jon Elson
              ... I got a Phase-II AXA (or 100) size piston dovetail toolpost, and it is a great improvement. The wedge type are more expensive, and I have never had a
              Message 6 of 11 , Sep 2, 2001
              • 0 Attachment
                Jeff Swann wrote:

                > I'd like to ask what brand and size QC toolposts you
                > folks have used for the 10-F, I'd like to replace the
                > lantern post soon on mine and would appreciate the
                > suggestions !

                I got a Phase-II AXA (or 100) size piston dovetail toolpost,
                and it is a great improvement. The wedge type are more expensive,
                and I have never had a problem with my piston style. it may make a
                difference on larger lathes.

                Jon
              • William K. Macy
                I am finding this chatter thread most helpful as my Atlas/Craftsman 12in suffewrs from the same problem when using a cut off tool. The cross feed play is
                Message 7 of 11 , Sep 3, 2001
                • 0 Attachment
                  I am finding this chatter thread most helpful as my Atlas/Craftsman
                  12in suffewrs from the same problem when using a cut off tool. The
                  cross feed play is minimal, but the front of the carriage has
                  noticeable vertical play. I think this is the problem for me using
                  the lantern-type tool holder. On regular cuts chatter is not a
                  problem. THE problem: how do I deetach the carriaaage apron from the
                  carriage itself to get at the laminated shims you referred to? I do
                  not have a complete manual, only an exploded diagram for a 10 in
                  lathe. The apron seems to be held on to the carriage by a gear
                  assembly about half way from the ends. Rather than removing every
                  screw and/or bolt, I thought I'd stop now and seek assistance!

                  Many thanks in advance, Regards, Bill
                  --
                  William K.Macy Ph.D. wkmacy@...
                  Associate Marine Research Scientist phone: 401-874-6174
                  Director, Research Aquarium fax: 401-874-6853
                  Graduate School of Oceanography
                  University of Rhode Island
                  South Ferry Rd.
                  Narragansett, RI 02882
                  USA
                • Jon Elson
                  ... There are 2 very large phillips screws on the top of the carriage that hold the apron on. You have to remove the leadscrew first, and I think there is
                  Message 8 of 11 , Sep 3, 2001
                  • 0 Attachment
                    "William K. Macy" wrote:

                    > I am finding this chatter thread most helpful as my Atlas/Craftsman
                    > 12in suffewrs from the same problem when using a cut off tool. The
                    > cross feed play is minimal, but the front of the carriage has
                    > noticeable vertical play. I think this is the problem for me using
                    > the lantern-type tool holder. On regular cuts chatter is not a
                    > problem. THE problem: how do I deetach the carriaaage apron from the
                    > carriage itself to get at the laminated shims you referred to?

                    There are 2 very large phillips screws on the top of the carriage that
                    hold the apron on. You have to remove the leadscrew first, and I think
                    there is something else that interferes, but maybe not. if you have
                    access to the back of the lathe, you don't need to take the apron
                    off. When taking the apron off, there are two dowel pins that assure
                    alignment. On some lathes, they can fall out and get lost, so see if they
                    are loose and store them if they threaten to come out.

                    > I do
                    > not have a complete manual, only an exploded diagram for a 10 in
                    > lathe. The apron seems to be held on to the carriage by a gear
                    > assembly about half way from the ends. Rather than removing every
                    > screw and/or bolt, I thought I'd stop now and seek assistance!

                    Right, this is the power crossfeed pickoff, and the leadscrew goes through
                    it. Just remove the right end leadscrew bracket and slide the screw
                    out through the apron. It is keyed on the left end.

                    When using a standard cutoff tool, it is the BACK of the carriage that
                    tends to lift, from the reaction to the infeed force. but, looseness at
                    either the front or back gib should be fixed. There are steel (iron?)
                    plates with two screws held to the bottom of the carriage. There are
                    laminated shims behind these plates. be careful when reassembling
                    as the screws can pinch the shim, making it accordion pleated! If
                    removing one lamination is too much, you can add back about .0015"
                    or so with kitchen aluminum foil. If your bed has any measurable wear,
                    be sure to check the fit of these gibs at the tailstock end, as they will
                    bind up at the least worn part of the bed.

                    Jon
                  • rweersing@worldnet.att.net
                    Hello Bill The laminated shims are under the steel plates under the carrage and there is no need to take the apron off of the carrage. Take the tailstock and
                    Message 9 of 11 , Sep 4, 2001
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Hello Bill

                      The laminated shims are under the steel plates under the carrage and
                      there is no need to take the apron off of the carrage. Take the
                      tailstock and leadscrew off and slide the carrage assembly off of the
                      right end of the lathe.

                      Hope that helps
                      Bob

                      --- In atlas_craftsman@y..., "William K. Macy" <wkmacy@g...> wrote:
                      > I am finding this chatter thread most helpful as my Atlas/Craftsman
                      > 12in suffewrs from the same problem when using a cut off tool. The
                      > cross feed play is minimal, but the front of the carriage has
                      > noticeable vertical play. I think this is the problem for me using
                      > the lantern-type tool holder. On regular cuts chatter is not a
                      > problem. THE problem: how do I deetach the carriaaage apron from
                      the
                      > carriage itself to get at the laminated shims you referred to? I
                      do
                      > not have a complete manual, only an exploded diagram for a 10 in
                      > lathe. The apron seems to be held on to the carriage by a gear
                      > assembly about half way from the ends. Rather than removing every
                      > screw and/or bolt, I thought I'd stop now and seek assistance!
                      >
                      > Many thanks in advance, Regards, Bill
                      > --
                      > William K.Macy Ph.D. wkmacy@g...
                      > Associate Marine Research Scientist phone: 401-874-6174
                      > Director, Research Aquarium fax: 401-874-6853
                      > Graduate School of Oceanography
                      > University of Rhode Island
                      > South Ferry Rd.
                      > Narragansett, RI 02882
                      > USA
                    • William K. Macy
                      Many thanks Jon for the help. Pull the lead screw-why didn t I think of that! Regards, Bill -- William K.Macy Ph.D.
                      Message 10 of 11 , Sep 4, 2001
                      • 0 Attachment
                        Many thanks Jon for the help. Pull the lead screw-why didn't I think of that!

                        Regards, Bill
                        --
                        William K.Macy Ph.D. wkmacy@...
                        Associate Marine Research Scientist phone: 401-874-6174
                        Director, Research Aquarium fax: 401-874-6853
                        Graduate School of Oceanography
                        University of Rhode Island
                        South Ferry Rd.
                        Narragansett, RI 02882
                        USA
                      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.