81691Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: 10F Oil Cups - Again
- Mar 10, 2013If you can squeeze it nearly flat, it will be good for the oil cups. (But not for way wipers)If it is "quite solid", it will be good for way wipers if of correct shape. (But not for oil cups, that is the "oil blockade" I mentioned.)Something in between is good for wicks. The solid type may actually work, but a slightly looser type works a bit better.I used the solid type, because I had it from making wipers, which is why I had to separate it to a more "yarn-like" consistency. If you already have the more open type, you won't need to do that.Obviously, you need to be able to actually get an appreciable amount of oil into the cup, and it needs to go from there to the bearing. With very solid felt, it may take a substantial "head" of oil behind it to get any through.JT----- Original Message -----From: wa5cab@...Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 12:27 AMSubject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: 10F Oil Cups - Again
No, you don't. As I wrote sometime last month, I bought some felt rod but when it arrived, it turned out to be almost solid. The correct density will be such that you can squeeze it almost flat with thumb and forefinger.
In a message dated 03/10/2013 00:03:04 AM Central Standard Time, jerdal@... writes:
When I added way lube oil cups to my Logan carriage, I took some felt and "teased it out" to open it, tugging it apart until it was about the density of yarn. Otherwise it will be almost an oil blockade.
You do NOT want to fill up the cup with high density felt, IMO.....
What I wanted with the felt was not a flow regulator, but rather a 'filter" for swarf and so forth that might otherwise go down the hatch despite flip covers.
If you need to regulat flow, you need a different type of cup, wher the middle has a pipe coming up, so it holds oil. Then you put a wick down the pipe, dipping into the oil, which moves oil slowly from teh cup to the bearing by capillary action.
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