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81662Re: 10F Oil Cups - Again

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  • oldsrocket_88
    Mar 9, 2013
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      Make sure you clean out all the chips after you drill & deburr the hole also. Craftsman lathe owner since 1967, bought it at Sears at the age of 16 and have had it since, payed $325.00 for it then.











      --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <jflan@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      >
      > 5/16" definately will not press into my 0.301" hole opening, so I would drill it slightly under 0.312 and press in the 5/16" oil cover. We'll see...
      > Thanks for the help
      >
      > Jim
      >
      >
      > >
      > > Jim,
      > >
      > > I would avoid the tall ones. Sooner or later you'll hit one of them with
      > > something and break it off. McMaster lists the one as for 5/16" hole but
      > > then says that it is tapered and doesn't actually give the diameter on the
      > > bottom end. I would personally probably buy the originals but the ones McMaster
      > > has are cheap enough that if they don't fit it isn't any great loss. The
      > > wicks from Clausing wouldn't fit but you could buy a sheet of low density
      > > felt from a hobby store and with an arch punch eventually make two if the
      > > McMaster cups turn out to fit in the holes securely enough.
      > >
      > > The oil hole covers appear to be like the right-angle ones on the Atlas
      > > QCGB - oil goes straight through rather than being a slow supply.
      > >
      > > Robert D.
      > >
      > > In a message dated 03/08/2013 05:30:43 AM Central Standard Time,
      > > jflan@ writes:
      > > > Yes, 5/16" appears to be the closest next larger size (0.3125"). I guess
      > > > I could drill out the holes as I have the headstock completely dismantled
      > > > including bearing races.
      > > >
      > > > I do notice that there are 'Oil Hole Covers' and 'Oil Cups'. Different
      > > > but similar. The hole covers are just straight through tubes whereas the
      > > > cups have a oil retention mechanism even if it also includes the wick. The
      > > > ones that came out of the lathe had a small drip hole at the bottom of the
      > > > cup. This drip hole plus the wick is what is desired. I would believe that
      > > > the oil hold cover could be adapted by pressing in a small brass washer
      > > > into the bottom of the oil hole cover. The true oil cups that I've looked at
      > > > are physically tall and more expensive. This is not a bad but good thing,
      > > > unless you are intent on keeping the same 'look' of the headstock.
      > > >
      > > > -Jim
      > > >
      > > > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@ wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > >McMaster lists 5/16" ones that might fit the holes. But the reservoirs
      > > > >look to be much smaller than the originals. And they do not come with
      > > > the felt
      > > > >wicks. Cheaper, though.
      > > > >
      > > > >In a message dated 03/07/2013 21:04:52 PM Central Standard Time,
      > > > >terry.lund@ writes:
      > > > >>On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 8:30 PM, Jim <jflan@> wrote:
      > > > >>>>
      > > > >>>I posted recently in regards to removing the oil cups in my 10F
      > > > >>>headstock. Well, I got them out but damaged them in the process. No big
      > > > deal,
      > > > >>>right? Well, I'm having trouble finding an acceptable replacement. The
      > > > >>>headstock hole size measured .303" and I haven't found anything that
      > > > will directly
      > > > >>>press in. Does anyone know of an acceptable replacement? Any
      > > > suggestions?
      > > > >>>
      > > > >>> >>Jim, Clausing can supply them but the price for part #9-204 is
      > > > $32.64
      > > > >>each in stock. I believe I've read that they are available from McMaster
      > > > Carr
      > > > >>or the other suppliers.
      > > > >>
      > > > >>--
      > > > >>Terry
      > >
      >
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