81662Re: 10F Oil Cups - Again
- Mar 9, 2013Make sure you clean out all the chips after you drill & deburr the hole also. Craftsman lathe owner since 1967, bought it at Sears at the age of 16 and have had it since, payed $325.00 for it then.
--- In email@example.com, "Jim" <jflan@...> wrote:
> 5/16" definately will not press into my 0.301" hole opening, so I would drill it slightly under 0.312 and press in the 5/16" oil cover. We'll see...
> Thanks for the help
> > Jim,
> > I would avoid the tall ones. Sooner or later you'll hit one of them with
> > something and break it off. McMaster lists the one as for 5/16" hole but
> > then says that it is tapered and doesn't actually give the diameter on the
> > bottom end. I would personally probably buy the originals but the ones McMaster
> > has are cheap enough that if they don't fit it isn't any great loss. The
> > wicks from Clausing wouldn't fit but you could buy a sheet of low density
> > felt from a hobby store and with an arch punch eventually make two if the
> > McMaster cups turn out to fit in the holes securely enough.
> > The oil hole covers appear to be like the right-angle ones on the Atlas
> > QCGB - oil goes straight through rather than being a slow supply.
> > Robert D.
> > In a message dated 03/08/2013 05:30:43 AM Central Standard Time,
> > jflan@ writes:
> > > Yes, 5/16" appears to be the closest next larger size (0.3125"). I guess
> > > I could drill out the holes as I have the headstock completely dismantled
> > > including bearing races.
> > >
> > > I do notice that there are 'Oil Hole Covers' and 'Oil Cups'. Different
> > > but similar. The hole covers are just straight through tubes whereas the
> > > cups have a oil retention mechanism even if it also includes the wick. The
> > > ones that came out of the lathe had a small drip hole at the bottom of the
> > > cup. This drip hole plus the wick is what is desired. I would believe that
> > > the oil hold cover could be adapted by pressing in a small brass washer
> > > into the bottom of the oil hole cover. The true oil cups that I've looked at
> > > are physically tall and more expensive. This is not a bad but good thing,
> > > unless you are intent on keeping the same 'look' of the headstock.
> > >
> > > -Jim
> > >
> > > --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, wa5cab@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > >McMaster lists 5/16" ones that might fit the holes. But the reservoirs
> > > >look to be much smaller than the originals. And they do not come with
> > > the felt
> > > >wicks. Cheaper, though.
> > > >
> > > >In a message dated 03/07/2013 21:04:52 PM Central Standard Time,
> > > >terry.lund@ writes:
> > > >>On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 8:30 PM, Jim <jflan@> wrote:
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>I posted recently in regards to removing the oil cups in my 10F
> > > >>>headstock. Well, I got them out but damaged them in the process. No big
> > > deal,
> > > >>>right? Well, I'm having trouble finding an acceptable replacement. The
> > > >>>headstock hole size measured .303" and I haven't found anything that
> > > will directly
> > > >>>press in. Does anyone know of an acceptable replacement? Any
> > > suggestions?
> > > >>>
> > > >>> >>Jim, Clausing can supply them but the price for part #9-204 is
> > > $32.64
> > > >>each in stock. I believe I've read that they are available from McMaster
> > > Carr
> > > >>or the other suppliers.
> > > >>
> > > >>--
> > > >>Terry
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