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30466Re: [atlas_craftsman] Smooth Cuts??? -

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  • mertbaker
    Jan 1, 2004
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      See if you can adjust the slop out of the cros & compoubd slides, & get the
      backlash in the feed screws to as litlle as possible. You want to adjust
      the gibs so you can;t wiggle the slides from side to side, but they slide
      smoothly.
      Mert

      MertBaker@...
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Alan Barnett" <aoyt13@...>
      To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 6:04 AM
      Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Smooth Cuts??? -


      > Hi
      >
      >
      > > First, I made my first cut tonight. What fun.
      >
      > Its good therapy !
      >
      > >
      > > I have an old craftsman (atlas) 6" lathe. It is belt driven. Its
      > > approx. 1947-1950 model type to give you an idea.
      > >
      > > I noticed when cutting along a 6" piece of mild steel that the cross
      > > screw turns slightly at the same time not making your cuts smooth.
      > > almost wavy and full of slight ridges in the material. Basically it
      > > looks like a tree branch. ( think brass fitting or cross screw is
      > > worn as well, the rocker tool post moves slightly.
      >
      > What I do is...... put a piece of hex in the 3 jaw chuck, let the tool
      just
      > touch the bar, on a slow feed observe where the 'free play' is,stop the
      > lathe then adjust the jib strips appropriately to eliminate movement,
      repeat
      > this process until the free play has gone, as the compound is not needed
      for
      > most straight cuts I usually lock this up.
      >
      > > What do I need to keep the tool from doing this. I have to almost
      > > hold the cross screw handle in one hand, which does not work,
      > > because I would slip and make it uneven along the way. Can you lock
      > > the cross screw?
      > >
      > > How should your tool be cut to make a nice smooth surface on mild
      > > steel. what belt position should the motor and main pulleys be in
      > > (RPM)
      >
      > The cutting tool must be at center height, use a DTI what ever, make sure
      > the tool is at center height to the work use packing under the tool.
      > The tool must be sharp, with relief ground on it, have a look on the
      > Sheerline site I think they give examples there to give you an idea.
      > Always use a centre in the tailstock to support the work when not working
      > close to the chuck, as you will get chatter the further you move away from
      > the chuck.
      >
      > After setting and sharpening the tool advance the tool to the work using
      the
      > cross slide, so its just touching the work (if slackened off start again
      the
      > slide must always advance this compensates for ware) turn the chuck
      towards
      > you by hand, advancing the tool very lightly, your tool should make a neat
      > sharp cut, if not re-check your previous steps.
      >
      > Speed ? There are charts and formulas for this, I would use the lowest
      speed
      > to start with, (not engaging the bull wheel) then change speed when you
      have
      > got the hang of it.
      >
      > PLEASE use safety specs its at this stage you might snap the tool !!
      >
      > Regards
      > Alan
      >
      >
      > > Any secrets here that can help me.
      > >
      > > Thanks.
      > >
      > >
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