--- In firstname.lastname@example.org
, "rajung0351" <rajung@...>
> ... the Jukebox at all: No lights go on, no backlights, it appears
> absolutely the same as if it was turned off, except the buzz.
> Now, what I think might be the problem: I imagine that the outside
> power goes "through" the batterie pack, and after this into the
> device. If the batterie pack died, the power does not even
> reach the device itself.
Yes I think you might be correct. Although I'm not familiar with
the failure mode of Li-Ion batteries, other types of batteries often
fail with a "short circuit", meaning that it will completely load
down the power source and not allow it make enough voltage to then
power the unit. One could disconnect the batteries to check for
sure, but as you said, this is no easy task.
> Can I just find a new batterie pack and exchange it?
> Any experience with this?
I wonder that once the JB is opened, if the battery pack inside
might be more common than we think? Perhaps one like it could be
found from mobile telephone suppliers or even an old discarded
phone? I'm sure Archos doesn't make their own batteries, but they
might be packaged up in a special plastic carrier that might have to
be cut open to access the raw batteries for replacement.
Be careful not to "short" out a charged Li-Ion battery. This is one
way they then to then catch on fire or explode!
Of course before resorting to all this, I would actually measure
that battery voltage after it has been "charging" for awhile. It is
possible that there is nothing wrong with the batteries or the
charging circuit, but the JB itself has died somehow. That said, my
first guess would be the earlier situation of the the dead battery
loading down the power supply too much.
Another lesser possibility is that the "switching power supply" that
is inside the JB is too weak. This is the thing that is actually
causing the "buzzing" noise. As these things age, there are things
called electrolytic capacitors that fail. They fail gradually,
allowing less and less power to pass through them as time goes on.
These are the same devices that I spoke about earlier that work
better when warmed up. If you do open up the JB, look for a
comparably large cylindrical object with a number fallowed by
a "uf" after it printed on the side. The "u" is actually the greek
letter "mu" so it will look like a backwards "u". This would be the
suspect component. They are inexpensive but will require soldering
skills to replace. I'm not completely sure the JB will have one of
these in side it. It may instead have a tantalum capacitor, which
comes in various shapes, but do not tend to fail over time, so would
not likely be the problem. Archos would resist using these because
they are more expensive.
> Thanks again,