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RE: [anubiasdesign] Re: New Aquascape -- Freshwater Planted sloping sand

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  • Bailin Shaw
    Although the slope eventually levels out, one of the best ways to maintain the longevity of a slope is the use of hardscape material. I ve done this on a
    Message 1 of 41 , Jul 16, 2012
    Although the slope eventually levels out, one of the best ways to maintain the longevity of a slope is the use of hardscape material.  I've done this on a number of tanks and although the slope does disappear over a period of time, this can make it last a lot longer.  Also, using the hardscaping makes it easy to "redistribute" the material to each section on either side of the hardscaping.  Like I mentioned before, I use a cardboard border and add the sand on one side and substrate on the other side.  Then I remove the cardboard and add the hardscaping rocks to create a border and prevent the substrate from coming into the sand or gravel.  After that, I add any additional hardscaping material like pieces of driftwood.  I can leave the front of the aquascape open with sand or plant various border plants along the rocks.  Then I add plants in the back in the special plant substrate.  As long as the substrate isn't stirred up too much and moved into the sand portion.  The nice things about this type of layout is that you can clean the substrate from the sand area easily and also remove old sand and replace it with new sand to "clean" up the aquascape.

    If anyone has any additional questions, I'd be happy to answer them.

    Bailin


    To: anubiasdesign@yahoogroups.com
    From: daphnia@...
    Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 14:23:04 +0000
    Subject: [anubiasdesign] Re: New Aquascape -- Freshwater Planted sloping sand

     
    If you want a slope to your sand, add an oscar or some shell dwelling dwarf cichlids. ELOL

    I use flower pots with the bottom hole blocked.

    I have used egg crate to prevent cichlds from creating a slope. It more or less works, but I can't see it maintaining a slope.

    Really coarse Poret foam probably would. Cut a slit to start the roots and mash some soil and laterite into the foam. I've done that but on the level, not sloped.

    Rectangular Pyrex cake pans and bread pans can be used if you don't want to keep returning sand, but to me this is steps, not slopes.

    A mechanical alternative to the sand-moving fish is a water circulator used in reef tanks. It will keep a permanent slope to the sand but only current loving plants like some vals and Aponogetons will do well in its constant flow. I have two Aponogeton species set up in the scour zone of a hydor eco. One (not home so can't check spelling longiplumosis??)has multiplied from one plant to six, and the other planted on the crest of the scour zone up against the front glass(A. natans), from half a dozen bulbs to at least three times that many.

    --- In anubiasdesign@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
    >
    > I terrace my tanks with a rock wall, but even with the terrace I have to
    > scoop sand from the bottom back to the top weekly.
    >
    >
    >
    > _____
    >
    > From: anubiasdesign@yahoogroups.com [mailto:anubiasdesign@yahoogroups.com]
    > On Behalf Of Dan Knowlton
    > Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2012 4:48 PM
    > To: anubiasdesign@yahoogroups.com
    > Subject: Re: [anubiasdesign] Re: New Aquascape -- Freshwater Planted
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > but you can use egg crate for lights to keep the slope there.
    >
    >


  • Jim Rake
    Mark and Kenny, What a great source for stuff. And, there they are, several different sizes of counter-current heat exchange ventilation systems ... I had
    Message 41 of 41 , Jul 24, 2012
    • 0 Attachment
      Mark and Kenny,

      What a great source for stuff.  And, there they are, several different sizes of counter-current heat exchange ventilation systems ... I had been trying to find such a beast but all of my Google search efforts came up blank.  Many thanks.

      Jim


      -----Original Message-----
      From: Anubias Design <anubiasdesign@...>
      To: anubiasdesign <anubiasdesign@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2012 10:23 pm
      Subject: Re: [anubiasdesign] Re: OT? - Dehumidifier



      What Kenny said.  Not a cheap solution but definitely the best solution.
      Mark

      Anubias Design
      "where rare species are common"

      We are proud to announce the formation of the American Labyrinth Fish Association (ALFA). We are starting out as a Yahoo Group with plans for a website and magazine. Please join us as we endeavor to learn more about these fascinating fish. http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/AmericanLabyrinthFishAssociation/

      --- On Mon, 7/23/12, Me <KTapp@...> wrote:

      From: Me <KTapp@...>
      Subject: Re: [anubiasdesign] Re: OT? - Dehumidifier
      To: anubiasdesign@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Monday, July 23, 2012, 12:59 PM

       
      Look into an air exchanger. Www.jehmco.com sells them and can answer any questions you might have. It exchanges the air with outside air very  efficiently. It will take care of the humidity and the bird dander.

      Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID


      "T. Barber" <tbarber00@...> wrote:

       
      I have a fish room and a bird room that are adjacent to each other in my
      house. I have a moisture problem with both rooms......I clean the
      bird room by hosing it down so it is very wet on cleaning day (the birds
      also spill water, bathe in their bowls etc.) the fish room has 7 tanks
      one is 250 gallons so that room gets humid too. I need to keep mildew
      from growing in either room.

      I have tried to keep up with it by using small dehumidifiers from home
      depot but to be honest they either don't work that well or last that
      long and in the fish room - it just pumps all the heat into the room
      which makes it warmer .............which increases the evaporation - its
      a vicious cycle.

      I have been looking at larger (more expensive) units to handle this
      situation and have found some large units that might be the answer to
      the problem.

      Am I correct in thinking a bigger unit wouldn't have to run so
      often..........therefore the waste heat isn't as big a problem? I
      could go with a unit that is ducted to the rooms and put it up in the
      attic to deal with the heat issue too.

      Anybody have any experience or advice?

      Thanks.

      TerryB


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