Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: HELP!

Expand Messages
  • herptiles_org
    Eep, sounds like you re going to need to spend some more to keep those anoles happy. First, as an open message to all, please don t try to win animals at
    Message 1 of 12 , Jul 1, 2003
    • 0 Attachment
      Eep, sounds like you're going to need to spend some more to keep
      those anoles happy.

      First, as an open message to all, please don't try to win animals at
      carnivals, and discourage it as much as you can! They aren't cared
      for properly, and most often they're won by people who won't take
      care of them properly and aren't even willing to (unlike the
      fortunate anoles you came by), resulting in lots of anole, iguana,
      hermit crab, and goldfish deaths that aren't necessary. It is my
      understanding that this has already been banned in some states? I'm
      pretty sure it's not legal in any Canadian provinces, at least.

      Alright, down to business.

      First, you'll have to determine whether or not you have any males in
      this group. If you have more than one, you're going to have to
      separate the anoles into separate enclosures: Males will fight and
      stress each other out, often resulting in the slow death of one of
      both lizards. You'll need to check the underside of the base of each
      anole's tails, males will have bulges (their reproductive orgrans)
      and pores on the underside (there is a nice photograph of a male's
      underside on this page http://www.kingsnake.com/anolecare/7.htm for
      reference). Their sex is a little difficult to tell if the lizards
      are small.

      If you end up with three females, or a male and two females, they can
      be housed together. Some keepers say that 10 gallons is adequate
      space for a trio of anoles, but you might want to invest in a 12 or
      15 gallon aquarium. When it comes to lizards, the more space, the
      better. If you have more than one male, you'll have to separate the
      male from the others.

      Each tank should be equipped with a heat lamp (60 or 40 watts should
      do, anything more will probably fry the lizards in such a small
      cage), a full-spectrum fluorescent light (more on this later), hiding
      spots (caves and plants), places to climb, a sturdy lid (preferably
      screen to allow ventilation), a water dish, and a suitable substrate.
      The lights should be on between 12 and 14 hours a day in the
      summer/spring, and about 10 in the winter/fall. The cage should have
      a basking spot of about 90-92F and the cool end should be about 75F
      (ambient temperature of about 80F); the entire cage should cool to no
      lower than 75F at night.

      Full-spectrum lighting is very important. It is necessary for the
      lizards to be able to process the calcium they eat so that their
      bodies can use it. Without it, the lizards will very likely develop
      health problems and diseases, such as metabolic bone disease ("MBD").
      None of those gimmicky products like "Solar Drops" are a substitute
      for this. These fluorescent lights should be on for the same amount
      of time as the incandescent heating light, and should be changed at
      the very least least once a year (every 6 months is by far better).
      Good, reliable brands are: ZooMed's Iguana Light OR Repti Sun 5.0,
      VitaLite (by Durotest), and ReptiGlo 5.0 (by Tetra Terrafauna). These
      lights are all reliable because they've been tested and actually DO
      emit the amount of ultraviolet light that they should be (there are
      many lights that claim to emit the full-spectrum, but don't!!).

      The bottom of the tank should be covered in a safe-to-use substrate.
      Lizard Litter causes a lot of problems with bigger lizards, but as
      long as the pieces are MUCH too big for the anoles to accidentally
      swallow, then it should be fine. If the pieces are small enough to be
      ingested, then the substrate must be changed (swallowed pieces of any
      substrate can cause an intestinal impaction in your lizard, which
      usually kills it if not removed by surgical means). Larger pieces of
      bark/wood chips (NOT cedar or pine or any coniferous trees, these
      release fumes that are dangerous to your lizards), paper towels,
      soil, or a cut-to-fit piece of indoor/outdoor carpeting all work
      well, and are safe for anoles.

      A note on hot rocks... DON'T USE THEM. They aren't safe, and there
      are good reasons why. First, it doesn't matter if the package says
      it's new and improved or safe for whatever lizard you have, or how
      much you paid for a "reliable name brand," it isn't. All hot rocks
      have a deadly design flaw: The internal thermostat breaks and the
      rocks overheat, creating a frying pan for your lizards and a
      dangerous fire hazard. The logic that "if it's too hot, my lizard
      will just move" doesn't work, here. Lizards, especially diurnal
      lizards like your anoles, are adapated to warm themselves from an
      overhead heat source: The sun. Their skin on their undersides aren't
      equipped with the same thermal sensors that, say, your hands are, so
      they are simply UNABLE to detect that the hot rock underneath them is
      what's making them so warm. They may be aware that they are warming
      up, but simply don't understand and are completely unaware that it's
      because they are sitting on a strangely very hot rock. This often
      leads to dangerous burns on the lizards' stomachs (fatal or
      permanently scarring!), or it will just cook them from the bottom up.
      In short, they're dangerous, flawed products that are not suitable
      for any reptile, so don't use them.

      Now, this is only scratching the top of how to properly care for your
      anoles. There's a lot more reading you'll need to do, about feeding,
      behaviour, habitat and more. Here are some great links you should
      check out:

      Under the Leaves, Complete Anole Care:
      http://www.kingsnake.com/anolecare/

      Lizard House (check out the anole caresheet):
      http://www.lizardhouse.com/

      Melissa Kaplan's anole caresheet:
      http://www.lizardhouse.com/

      Herptiles.org's green anole caresheet:
      http://www.acc50.attcanada.net/jinx/herps/anoliscarolinensiscare.htm


      There are plenty of other good sites and great people to ask for help
      out there. Don't be shy if you have any more questions!

      Good luck and happy herping,
      Christina Miller
      www.herptiles.org
    • bedazzzeled
      My anole is very thin, lethargic, and has sunken eyes. He hasn t changed his color for a pale lime green for quite sometime now and today he won t take any
      Message 2 of 12 , Jan 25, 2004
      • 0 Attachment
        My anole is very thin, lethargic, and has sunken eyes. He hasn't
        changed his color for a pale lime green for quite sometime now and
        today he won't take any baby food after holding him and force feed
        him. I'm afraid he may be dying, we've had him for 2 1/2 years now.
        We are wary of seperating him from his surroundings from his brother
        and usual heat set up.

        Any suggestions?
      • Ray
        For the sake of the healthy anole, please separate them. It will be easier to keep an eye on him. Keep him in a separate enclosure at the upper range of his
        Message 3 of 12 , Jan 25, 2004
        • 0 Attachment
          For the sake of the healthy anole, please separate them.  It will be easier to keep an eye on him.  Keep him in a separate enclosure at the upper range of his temp tolerance - mid to high 80's. 
           
          What kind of baby food are you trying to use, and how much? 
          ----- Original Message -----
          Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 5:23 PM
          Subject: [anole] HELP!

          My anole is very thin, lethargic, and has sunken eyes.  He hasn't
          changed his color for a pale lime green for quite sometime now and
          today he won't take any baby food after holding him and force feed
          him.  I'm afraid he may be dying, we've had him for 2 1/2 years now. 
          We are wary of seperating him from his surroundings from his brother
          and usual heat set up.

          Any suggestions?




          Yahoo! Groups Links

        • Gina Gonzalez
          Separating now... gerber apricot, it s their favorite, he licked a little yesterday morning and today he just kept his eyes closed and is limp. (he usually
          Message 4 of 12 , Jan 25, 2004
          • 0 Attachment
            Separating now...
            gerber apricot, it's their favorite, he licked a little yesterday morning and today he just kept his eyes closed and is limp.  (he usually scurries)
            I'm worried he may not make it.  He's regressed in the past few hours. 


            Ray <badlizard@...> wrote:
            For the sake of the healthy anole, please separate them.  It will be easier to keep an eye on him.  Keep him in a separate enclosure at the upper range of his temp tolerance - mid to high 80's. 
             
            What kind of baby food are you trying to use, and how much? 
            ----- Original Message -----
            Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 5:23 PM
            Subject: [anole] HELP!

            My anole is very thin, lethargic, and has sunken eyes.  He hasn't
            changed his color for a pale lime green for quite sometime now and
            today he won't take any baby food after holding him and force feed
            him.  I'm afraid he may be dying, we've had him for 2 1/2 years now. 
            We are wary of seperating him from his surroundings from his brother
            and usual heat set up.

            Any suggestions?




            Yahoo! Groups Links



            Yahoo! Groups Links


            Do you Yahoo!?
            Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!

          • Ray
            Gina; I hope we re both wrong, but it sounds kind of grim to me, too. I would probably want to clean out the enclosure they were both in soon(scrub it down,
            Message 5 of 12 , Jan 25, 2004
            • 0 Attachment
              Gina;
               
              I hope we're both wrong, but it sounds kind of grim to me, too. 
               
              I would probably want to clean out the enclosure they were both in soon(scrub it down, 10% bleach water solution) , towel dry it out and let it air dry the rest of the way, like for a day or so.  Without more info(let's face it, even with lots of info), it's hard to know what's making the little guy sick.  For now, separating them will put less stress on both of them. 
               
              Good Luck.
               
              Ray
              ----- Original Message -----
              Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 6:50 PM
              Subject: Re: [anole] HELP!

              Separating now...
              gerber apricot, it's their favorite, he licked a little yesterday morning and today he just kept his eyes closed and is limp.  (he usually scurries)
              I'm worried he may not make it.  He's regressed in the past few hours. 


              Ray <badlizard@...> wrote:
              For the sake of the healthy anole, please separate them.  It will be easier to keep an eye on him.  Keep him in a separate enclosure at the upper range of his temp tolerance - mid to high 80's. 
               
              What kind of baby food are you trying to use, and how much? 
              ----- Original Message -----
              Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 5:23 PM
              Subject: [anole] HELP!

              My anole is very thin, lethargic, and has sunken eyes.  He hasn't
              changed his color for a pale lime green for quite sometime now and
              today he won't take any baby food after holding him and force feed
              him.  I'm afraid he may be dying, we've had him for 2 1/2 years now. 
              We are wary of seperating him from his surroundings from his brother
              and usual heat set up.

              Any suggestions?




              Yahoo! Groups Links



              Yahoo! Groups Links


              Do you Yahoo!?
              Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!

              Yahoo! Groups Links

            • Gina Gonzalez
              He didn t make it. He just got really limp and started gasping. I don t know what went wrong, I d like to say we ve had them healthy and happy for 2 1/2
              Message 6 of 12 , Jan 25, 2004
              • 0 Attachment
                He didn't make it.  He just got really limp and started gasping.  I don't know what went wrong, I'd like to say we've had them healthy and happy for 2 1/2 years now. 
                Thank you for your help.   I'm going out now to get some new bedding so we can have a healthy cage for the other little guy. 
                Thanks Ray 
                 
                Ray <badlizard@...> wrote:
                Gina;
                 
                I hope we're both wrong, but it sounds kind of grim to me, too. 
                 
                I would probably want to clean out the enclosure they were both in soon(scrub it down, 10% bleach water solution) , towel dry it out and let it air dry the rest of the way, like for a day or so.  Without more info(let's face it, even with lots of info), it's hard to know what's making the little guy sick.  For now, separating them will put less stress on both of them. 
                 
                Good Luck.
                 
                Ray
                ----- Original Message -----
                Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 6:50 PM
                Subject: Re: [anole] HELP!

                Separating now...
                gerber apricot, it's their favorite, he licked a little yesterday morning and today he just kept his eyes closed and is limp.  (he usually scurries)
                I'm worried he may not make it.  He's regressed in the past few hours. 


                Ray <badlizard@...> wrote:
                For the sake of the healthy anole, please separate them.  It will be easier to keep an eye on him.  Keep him in a separate enclosure at the upper range of his temp tolerance - mid to high 80's. 
                 
                What kind of baby food are you trying to use, and how much? 
                ----- Original Message -----
                Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 5:23 PM
                Subject: [anole] HELP!

                My anole is very thin, lethargic, and has sunken eyes.  He hasn't
                changed his color for a pale lime green for quite sometime now and
                today he won't take any baby food after holding him and force feed
                him.  I'm afraid he may be dying, we've had him for 2 1/2 years now. 
                We are wary of seperating him from his surroundings from his brother
                and usual heat set up.

                Any suggestions?




                Yahoo! Groups Links



                Yahoo! Groups Links


                Do you Yahoo!?
                Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!

                Yahoo! Groups Links



                Yahoo! Groups Links



                -Gina
                You want Slick Lizard Hot Sauce (subliminal message)


                Do you Yahoo!?
                Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!

              Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.